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Author Topic: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”  (Read 15548 times)

Watchleader

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Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« on: August 30, 2010, 03:53:05 PM »

At long last, (some would say!)
Here is the start of my thread of building the Sailing Barge “Lady Daphne”.
To set the scene:-
I decided about a year ago to build a larger boat, (I had a 37” Perkasa) and also to get back into scale sail. (I had previously scratch built a 1/6 scale Silhouette II. - 36”” loa.)
I “ummed” and “aarred” for a while, as I do!!, then a really good mate (I’ll not name him and embarrass him on here) came back from Blackpool Show and presented me with hull and plans of Lady Daphne.
I was speechless but extremely pleased.  :} :} :}

I was burgled in January this year and my camera and the first pics of the early stages of the build, still on the camera, were lost.  >:-o >:-o
Since then I download to the computer pretty well as soon as the pictures are taken.
The early pics were of nothing more exciting than, hull and plans as received, building the stand, doing ballast tests in the “test tank” to find the water line and gauging what the all up weight should be - 26lbs. (Sorry don’t do metric)
I decided after guidance from many helpful forum members and being directed to various sailing barge sites, to go with the dual option of a ballasted keel or, no keel and internal ballast. So I built and fitted a keel box and also allowed space for internal ballast
I built the stand as a dual height so I would be able to work on the barge with the keel fitted, or without a keel at a much more comfortable height.



The keel box I built from 2mm and 4mm acrylic sheet. The box sides were 2mm and the “box shape” was made from the 4mm. Using a spare piece of 4mm, lightly vasalined to stop sticking as a spacer, the box was glued and then pins superglued in at regular intervals to strengthen. The keel box was positioned and fixed in place then glassed in place.



With a total weight of 26lbs I felt that a keel bulb of 9lbs should be about right, so with a piece of graph paper, info on the density of lead a calculator and pencil, I sketched the shape and size of a cylindrical bomb shaped keel bulb.

More pics and less talking on next post. O0 O0

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boatmadman

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2010, 04:33:37 PM »

Hi,

Great work there.

When working on your keel and bulb, you may not want to re invent the wheel :-)), so have a look at these links:

http://www.ppart.de/aerodynamics/profiles/NACA4.html - although this work is primarily aimed at aircraft wings, if you use a symmetrical profile, it works well for keels and bulbs. I used a NACA profile for a 1M yacht bulb years ago and it worked very well.

http://www.ivorbittle.co.uk/Books/The%20physics%20of%20sailing/Section%206%20The%20keel%20and%20the%20bulb.htm#_ftn2

Ian
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2010, 07:27:56 PM »

Thank you Ian for that info and for your comment.
I do try not to re invent the wheel. %) If I did I am sure it would be rather eccentric. O0
I have studied both those sites and Ivor Bittle's site is pretty inspirational and has helped me in the build no end.
The bulb I have made is a pretty good approximation to aerofoil but not mathematically produced.
The bulb and keel are already made and I will post pics etc shortly.  O0
John
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bosun

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2010, 08:49:01 PM »

Yo John
Nice to see you,ve made a start on your build thread, looking forward to seeing more of the build, and plenty of pic,s  :-))
Bosun
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2010, 08:51:33 PM »

As a mould for the bulb half I used a breeze block; cheap, easily worked, and pretty heatproof.
I drew around the bulb outline and then using it as a depth gauge removed material out to the line and with the same form.
When I was happy with the shape I used plaster filler to get a smooth surface.  :-))
 


Anyone trying this method, please remember to allow the breeze block and plaster to thoroughly dry out, before pouring molten lead into it!!  
Could be spectacular and dangerous if you don’t!!! <:( <:(
I set the mould block level in both planes and firmly held, melted sufficient lead (about 5lbs) and poured ‘till just level with block surface.



I did remember to put a thick welding glove on before removing casting from mould. :-)) A gentle shake freed it. :-))



Using two “halves” and a piece of 4mm acrylic as the fin, I clamped them together and drilled through for two 6mm gutter bolts, countersinking both head and nuts into the surface.
Using pieces of 4mm acrylic I filled the gap between the halves, forward and aft of the fin.
Some "easisand" filler and ½ hours sanding, gave me a pretty reasonable shape and finish.  :-) :-)
Finally I fixed 4mm half round on leading and trailing edges of the fin that would be below the hull.



 Next post will be moving to the insde of the hull. O0 O0

Yo Tel
You knew I would start sometime  >>:-( >>:-(
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #5 on: September 02, 2010, 11:42:58 AM »

The next step was to fix in the deck edge supports. These were cut and fixed 1/8” below the deck line with easisand filler.
The bottom of the hull when the keel was in place required a series of supports to:
1. Strengthen the hull against any distortion with the keel in place, and
2. Provide support and compartments for servos, radio, ballast etc
These were made from 10 x15mm softwood epoxied down and ‘glassed in place





The deck supports were fitted next using the deck edge supports as a guide and the position of the hatches as main support, fitting other where it was felt further support was required e.g. Doubling the depth of the support each side of the main hatch.
It was also possible then to lock in position, the top of the keel box. Other supports were fitted as support for main mast tabernacle. All these were fitted with epoxy.





Lady Daphne when first built and sailing with a bowsprit and mizzen did not have an auxiliary motor fitted.
Here I decided that I would deviate from the somewhat purist idea and fit an auxiliary motor.
(My sailing skills may not get me out of trouble on a lake with little access or undergrowth on the edges, and the dreaded “lee shore”.) :(( :((
The prop must of necessity be off centre, and ideally for balance, the motor on centre. So this is what I fitted.
When making the prop tube, I fitted an oiling/greasing point and also used oilite bearings.





I fitted the stern post next and constructed the rudder from 1/8” ply with 1/16” sides.  The 1/8” ply was set into a routed groove in the rudder post and then the sides were added. These were sanded to profile and clad with simulated planking plasticard.
The rudder hinges were made from brass sheet with short lengths of brass tube silver soldered on. The three hinge parts on the stern post were fitted using brass pins and epoxy. The hinge pin was kept in place whilst fitting to ensure all lined up correctly. When these were dry I then fitted the three hinge parts to the rudder post, again with the hinge pin fitted.




In the next post, I hope, I'll be moving away from the hull and doing the masts, sprits etc.  :-)) O0
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jenno

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #6 on: September 02, 2010, 08:03:02 PM »

Very nice john,
                        I enjoy a good build thread, gives you a good insight into the model.

                    keep up the good work,

                                                        Jenno.

tigertiger

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2010, 05:14:57 AM »

Nice job.
Thanks for sharing.
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2010, 05:55:12 PM »


Thanks Bosun, Jenno and Tigertiger for the interest and responses. :-)) :-)) That's what's making these threads fun to do.   :-) :-)

So next, Masts and sprits etc.

I started with a 24” long ash piece,2” x2” and ripped it down on the bandsaw into a series of squares of varying dimensions, 5/16”, 3/8”, ½” and ¾”. 
Also a 30” piece of pine (a nice hard piece – skip wood!) into a 3/8” square.




Using the lathe I turned all to the required form. Whilst I did use the spindle gouge, I am afraid that this exercise used a lot more abrasive paper.  :embarrassed:
After removing the corners with a small plane and starting with a fairly coarse grade of abrasive paper, held in a welding glove, the forms were achieved.  :-))

The main mast however was turned with the spindle gouge as it was sufficiently sturdy not to whip or vibrate excessively. :-)
The top of the lower mast section is square and I cut the form in before turning, to ensure it lined up accurately with the bottom square section.

(You may find it amusing to view my post No 71 in the Modelling Induced Injuries thread at this point)
 <:( <:( <:(  >>:-( >>:-( >>:-(:embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :-X :-X :-X





These are the various turned pieces laid out in an “orderly way” just to get an impression, followed by all pieces dyed, using vandyke crystals.







The eagle eyed among you will have noticed main and mizzen tabernacle in the previous photo.

Making these will be part of the next post.
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2010, 10:35:19 PM »

Tabernacles aren’t the most interesting items to make.
Or, are they?

I studied what pics I had and looked hard at the plans and made up a main mast tabernacle from 2mm plasticard.
Not very convincing, and certainly not very sturdy. <:( <:(
So next,
I cut the same forms from 1.2mm (18swg) brass, wired together as an assembly and soldered them at the joins.
Not very tidy and definitely not square and true!
I tried the mizzen tabernacle in the same way!    Same result!!! >:-o >:-o >:-o


I was at one of those all too frequent moments in model making when the ideas won’t “gel” {:-{ {:-{
So, with hours/days of frowning and all the muttering under your breath, with SWMBO saying “it’s only a model” :(( :((
I suddenly thought of  "egg boxes"   :kiss: :kiss: 
Slotting together the items for the tabernacles seemed the way to go.  :o :o


A few quick sketches later and I set up the lathe with vertical slide and a 1/16th slitting saw.


The items, when assembled held together beautifully and with some simple fillet soldering  – job done!
Sorry! I was so anxious to get the tabernacle finished forgot take pics. >>:-( >>:-(

I repeated the same method for the mizzen tabernacle.
These are the mizzen parts after using the slitting saw



This is the assembled and unsoldered mizzen tabernacle.

Even without solder this unit was pretty stable. :-))



I was very pleased with the results of this “make” and felt that further work was needed, on the main tabernacle particularly.
Looking at detailed photos of this, I saw there was a winch system built into the tabernacle.

So, “in for a penny in for a pound”.

An idea formed of making these winches “operable” if not properly working, so looking through all bits available in the spares and materials boxes and a few small purchases I ended up with a collection of pieces:



That assembled up into:






More brass work next time.

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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2010, 12:32:14 PM »

OOPS SORRY! :(( :(( :((
It would appear that whilst moving pictures around in photobucket I have removed them from this thread. >:-o >:-o
I was trying to keep the album with all pics in, to a sensible size.
I hope that I will be able to resurrect them O0 O0 very soon!!! :-))
I was just getting organised to put up the next post. {:-{ {:-{
I hope that by returning them to the correct album they will reappear.
Anybody got any advice, before I completely mess this up.
John <:( <:(
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airwolf572010

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2010, 01:56:07 PM »

Hi Watchleader im new but I have read the other posts you have submitted and beautiful work is all I can say and good luck with Lady Daphne I bet she will be a treat and a delight to sail when you are ready.. Congratulations.
Airwolf
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #12 on: September 20, 2010, 04:32:19 PM »

For those watching who missed my pics cos I inadvertantly moved them to another album in photobucket - sorry!
But I have got them back now. :} :} :}

With masts/sprits etc made I looked at all the bands on these used for attaching sails, stays, lofts etc.
I was not surprised, but a little daunted, by the fact that only 2 bands were of a suitable size for stock tube.  :((
So the lathe and quite a bit of brass bar played a vital part in the making of these next items.
Measuring the mast/sprit diameter at the correct place and boring out the brass to the relevant diameter, then turning to a wall thickness of 0.030”, then parting off at 3mm long.
There were quite a few!! %% %% %%
These all had an attachment point fitted and several had more than one.
These attachment points were made by parting off, from 3mm o/d brass tube 1.5mm lengths and then soldering these to the bands.


These two are the bowsprit bands       



This was a fiddly exercise.  {:-{ {:-{ {:-{
They all have to be in place when soldering, because try it one at a time and the heat on such small items de-solders the previous joints.
Holding them in place with 20swg galvanised was the best solution O0 O0 O0
           

Believe me, this magnifier becomes one of the more useful items in the workshop, as the eyesight goes with age.
             

These are the bands for the mast
             

And these are all of them
             

Also made were the mast joiners and forestay pulley assembly.

               

               

These are the cross trees. These turned out to be pretty simple to make after discovering small hinges on a wiper blade assembly that was doing nothing.

               

I’ll be describing the making of the winches next.
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2010, 04:34:53 PM »

Thank you Airwolf for the kind remarks. :-))
I was so releived to get my pics restored I negleted to thank you in the previous post.
John
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bosun

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #14 on: September 20, 2010, 07:28:04 PM »

Hey John
That,s coming along a treat mate, Holding the parts to be soldered with wire was a neat touch, looking forward to the rest of your build.
Bosun
I will have to call over and take a proper look :-))
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jenno

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #15 on: September 20, 2010, 11:36:41 PM »

Hi John,
             Looking good, some very nice detail there, keep up the good work.
see you up the lake soon.

                                              Jenno.

Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #16 on: September 24, 2010, 11:59:54 AM »


After making the winch on the main tabernacle “working”, I considered making the Leeboard winches and the Braille winch the same way.  :-) :-)

I was running short of brass sheet and whilst I could have purchased this, it’s not the cheapest commodity to get. :(( :((

Another “brainwave” (well to me it was) :} :} ----- Double sided, copper clad, printed circuit board came to mind. O0 O0

This material has the advantage of being pretty easy to cut, using the small circular saw :-)) :-))

   

Sketching the parts first and then sticking these sketches with “pritt” glue to suitably sized pieces of pcb also stuck together with “pritt” glue, I drilled, cut and filed these to shape. :-) :-)

     

     


and it was a doddle to solder


     


Together with short lengths of brazing rod as joiners and a few turned winch barrels, a couple of plastic gears from old kids toys;

These winches took shape.

     


The A frame for the ships wheel I also made the same way.

     

     

     

Although I had improved my sketches, with the use of a simple CAD system which gave a more accurate position for drilling centres

     



I then looked everywhere for a decent ships wheel. Good ones are as rare as "rocking horse ****".

The only half decent one I saw, when it arrived, had been incorrectly described by the seller, and was way too small.

So my only option  --  make one!!

That's in the next post. :-)) :-)) :-))

John
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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #17 on: September 25, 2010, 07:15:27 PM »

Hi John only just noticed your build, as I dont normally do boats with sails.

Must say the build is excellent and the attention to detail is amazing.   :-))
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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #18 on: September 30, 2010, 09:08:58 PM »

Thank you DickieD for your kind comments.
I hope you'll keep watching, there's plenty of fun to be had in the wind powered area of this hobby, as in all areas.

SHIPS WHEEL
After several frustrating weeks of looking for a decent ships wheel I decided I would make one.
Well we are in this hobby to make things!!  :-)) :-)) O0 O0
Sourcing material was a minor hurdle, a quick look through the range of tufnol available on ebay and it was sorted.
I bought a short length of tufnol tube, this together with some tufnol rod I already had and a length of 1/16” brazing rod I was off.
 

A short length of brazing rod and a small turned and drilled “handle” was the start
 

I decided that a twelve spoke wheel was what I wanted, so 12 spokes/handles was what I made.


I know there's only eleven there. (King handle or TDC is always brass capped. This one all brass.)

Turning these was simple but I had to find a way of drilling them accurately.
I used a small drill held in the chuck of a flexidrive which in turn was clamped to a block held in the toolholder in the lathe. Making sure the drill was exactly on centre height, it was fairly simple to drill the tufnol ring.
(I have a fixture on the back of the lathe chuck which allows me to index the chuck. I made this some time ago using gears on the lathe to give a series of accurately positioned holes on a ring attached to the back of the chuck)



So the collection of bits came together


And assembled into a quite acceptable wheel.
I also made a brass boss for the centre of the wheel, ‘cos I forgot to make it earlier.


The finished wheel, with other relevant items prior to painting. {Not the wheel, that was just varnished.}
 
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dreadnought72

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #19 on: September 30, 2010, 09:38:55 PM »

 :-))

Can't say morethan that!

Andy
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jenno

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #20 on: September 30, 2010, 10:27:56 PM »

I like it john, very very nice wheel.

            see you soon
                                       Mark.

Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #21 on: November 08, 2010, 12:13:33 AM »

Sorry about the longish delay in continuing this thread  :embarrassed: :embarrassed: I have added a laptop here and that produced some minor complications.    {:-{ {:-{

This post is Lee boards, bulwarks, handrail and leeboard rollers

Lee boards were made from 3mm ply, clad in plasticard, plain on the inner side and simulated planking on the outer side.
Strips of plain plasticard were added to simulate the bracing planks.
As I wanted the leeboards to operate I added a 3” x 1” piece of 3mm brass into the lower section of the ply core.
This was to provide sufficient weight for the board to drop under its own weight and only lifting required by the winch.





When gluing these I made sure that they stayed flat using a significant bit of weight on them whilst drying



The bulwarks I made from 1mm plasticard.
These were a little tricky to get exactly right, as the slightest error in shape meant the bulwarks were not going to stand at the correct angle.
Thin card pieces (weetabix packet) were taped together to cover the length of the bulwark and a little over height, then taped to the outside of the hull and the deck line marked from the inside.
This was then cut to the line and placed in position inside the sheer strake on top of the deck supports.
It is my intention to fix this in place with the decking, as well as adhesive.
When these were temporarily fixed I marked the bulwark top line on the card and cut it out.
I transferred this outline to two pieces of 1mm plasticard and cut out both sides. 
I primed the wooden deck supports and fibreglass with a mixture made from plasticard fragments and cellulose thinners.
I then glued the bulwarks in position with plastic solvent.
This was a temporary fixing and the bulwarks were later “locked in” when the deck was fitted.





The handrails I had to scratch my head about.
My first thought was to make these from wood, but after a few rather poor results because of the compound curves involved, I decided to construct these from plastruct section.
2.5mm square section on the inside of the bulwark capped in and out with 2.5mm half round.
This produced a pretty strong and convincing handrail section, if not the cheapest!!!




Hatch combing was made from 3mm ply and the hatch covers were built in situ
using 3mm x 20mm (IKEA Venetian, blinds stripped using small circular saw.) as surrounds and 3mm ply tops
(not forgetting to cover the combing with cling film to stop the covers being permanently fixed to the combing)








The original design leeboard rollers  I failed to get to operate at all successfully at this scale.
There was just too much twist/flex in the bulwarks.
So I had to use a little licence and provided a support.
At least in this pic the handrail is seen better.




I hope the pic quality in this post hasn’t disappointed too much.   :(( :((
I was too enthralled in the build at this stage to check out the pic quality before moving on!!! :embarrassed: :embarrassed:




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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #22 on: November 17, 2010, 10:46:24 AM »


At last we had reasonable enough weather to get the hull outside and prepare it for painting. :} :}

Preparation was with the tried and tested method of rubbing down with wet and dry emery (used wet) starting with 600 grit and moving progressively through to 1800 grit  after, of course, plugging all orifices. (Keel box opening and prop shaft tube.)
After this washing down with clean water with a drop of fairy liquid and allow to dry thoroughly.



The whole of the hull below the handrail I then sprayed with 3 light coats of red oxide primer. Allowing it to dry well between coats.
I use the red oxide spray primer from Screwfix. It’s a little more reasonable cost than Halfords and just as good.  O0 O0

I then gave a final finish coat of primer to the hull below the water line.



I also sprayed the keel, leeboards and rudder at the same time.



When the paint had thoroughly dried, I masked the waterline using 10mm wide Tamiya tape.
Then using a great product from the poundshop – masking tape with polythene attached.  :-)) :-))
(Meant for masking skirting boards etc)
I covered the hull bottom and then turned the hull the right way up and, as the same stuff was attached inside the hand rail, I folded it over to cover the deck area.





I masked some of the areas that would be white above the waterline and then I masked the rudder below the water line and got it and the leeboards prepared as well.
Now ready for black for the hull above the waterline and leeboards and rudder.


Contrast red to black not too good in that pic



When all these were sprayed and the tape removed (except on deck area) and all thoroughly dry, I sprayed all with satin varnish (2 coats)




It’s starting to look something like the vessel I wanted it to be now. :} :}


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Watchleader

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #23 on: December 06, 2010, 10:30:58 PM »

Next job is the detailing of the hull, i.e. adding the things that start to bring it “alive!
I put the name on the bow section using 10mm gold self adhesive lettering.
(Not sure if the font I used is the best, but I will change it later if it doesn’t look right!!)
The gold stripe was just that: - 1.5mm wide trim line the “arrow head” being 4mm wide short length shaped with a sharp scalpel when in position.
Also the depth markings were a bit tricky.
I used 1mm wide yellow trim line, set between strips of masking tape, 6mm apart, and then trimming to the masking tape guides to get a consistent height.
(Thank goodness they are in roman numerals)

The transom and the bow and stern bulwark “decoration” had me pondering for a while.
These are basically painted blue with quite elaborate gold scroll work incised in, as well as the vessels name and port of origin on the transom.
I felt that spraying up, then incising scroll work, and incising the name and port of origin on a lighter blue background at 1/24 scale, was going to be fraught with problems.
So I didn’t!!
I decided that I would build these off the boat and add them as finished pieces. I used self adhesive vinyl sheets of the required colours, plus of course suitable sized gold self adhesive letters, and a gold marker pen.


I used copper earth wire from 1.5mm twin and earth cable shaped carefully with round nosed pliers as guides for the scroll work.
There was no way I was going to get it tidy, leave alone symmetrical, without the guide/s


The result was quite satisfactory.


The scroll work I simplified a little from the original.
The original design, reduced to 1/24 scale, looked far “too “busy”






Yeah I’m happy with that.  :-)
Just a satin spray coat and it’s done.

Deck furniture next, and then the rigging!!
Just realised that the sails are hanked on with small shackles and there are something over 100 required. Aaaaarrrrrgh!!
 :o
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farrow

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Re: Getting to grips with “Lady Daphne”
« Reply #24 on: December 10, 2010, 08:35:52 PM »

Only the mainsail and mizzen are shackled to a stay post the rest are siezed on except flying jib which have spring loaded metal hangs, should now have fitted out enough of the real things. Remember the Dauphne as a motor barge with R,W.Pauls of Ipswhich in the grain trade. Her and her sisters built by Shortts are I believe the only ones built to a blue print.
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