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[Roger in France]

I have normally used strip lead as ballast. I am intending to use lead shot for my current build as access and space is limited. I have previously read about encasing shot in epoxy or similar fixatives, also about putting them in plastic bags.

Can those with experience please share their methods and recommend their favoured solution and why it is so?

Roger in France

[alan colson]

Roger, if you are certain of the position and ammount of lead required then fix it in with resin/epoxy. If you have any doubt as to weather the weight or position may have to vary to ballast the boat correctly then use the plastic bag method.
Alan

[Martin (Admin)]

Lots of different ways I've read / heard about over the years Roger, wax, paint, silicon sealant, PVA glue, superglue.

.... can you still buy lead shot in France then?

[derekwarner]

Roger........consider using a few layers of "Cling-Wrap" in each of the compartments to be filled with lead shot ballast

One important point is to ensure that the physical sides of each hull compartment are slightly tapered upwards so the final epoxy encapsulated ballast hunks can be lifted out ...you could also consider pre epoxy a small lifting eye to each segment........Derek

[RaaArtyGunner]

Not strictly ballast, but for trimming use self adhesive tire weights as used on mag car wheels. 

They are available in different weights and can be stuck to the hull where needed.

Local tire places have heaps of used ones, no good for cars but OK for boats 

[kiwimodeller]

I have used shot in a plastic bag several times. Make sure it fits in nicely and that you are finally happy with the waterline and angle of the hull then mix up some epoxy, pour it in the bag, roll it around until all the shot is coated and then push the bag back down in to place in the hull. I usually leave the bag in place as the occaisional piece of shot will become detached but with the block I fitted under the boiler I cut the bag off so it did not melt. I had the odd piece of shot come off that one in the early days but none since. My only complaint with doing it by this method is that it uses quite a lot of expensive epoxy. Hope this helps, Ian.

[Roger in France]

Thanks folks, all good stuff. My concern is extracting the solid mass if I use epoxy. The reason I am using shot is I can trickle it into the available spaces to achieve the correct depth of immersion and the correct level bow to stern. I may not be able to get a lump out once any adhesive sets.

Yes, I can still buy shot in France, Martin. It continues to be widely used by fishermen in France. Incidentally, fishing is a hugely popular hobby here and tackle shops are plentiful.

Roger in France

[dougal99]

I use shot in plastic bags which I number/letter to give the position in the hull (ie port/starboard and bulkhead numbers). That way I can remove the ballast if required for maintenance/taking to a show. Further should I retire the boat the ballast is easily reused. 

[Canopus]

Dependant upon the model cement is a good alternative to lead shot as it can also be squeezed into all sortd of spaces - again you need to be certain of the amount as its would be rather hard to get out.

I have used blocks of cement for my battleships which work well. It also has the advantage of not having too low a center of gravity so less bobbing about!

[essex2visuvesi]

On larger models I think removable ballast would be a better option.  It makes for easier launching and transportation

[geoff p]

Rather than 'lead shot', I used steel bearing-balls, which I bought by the boxful.  I think they cost about a fiver for 3 Kg of 6mm size.  They flow into all the right places just like lead shot and offer no worrisome pollution.

However, dim-whatsit that I am, I ballasted to the waterline before absolutely everything else was in place, then poured epoxy into the balls.  Idiot!

The extra weight of epoxy alone took her down to below her marks, then the other gubbins (winch, superstructure 'extras' etc) to be added took her even lower.
And guess what?  I couldn't get the damned balls out again.  I tried acetone to soften the epoxy, I tried drilling - now that was scary! - and I think I removed about a dozen balls altogether out of the many hundreds that are thoroughly attached to the inside of the planking.

On the other hand, they don't rust if they get wet - they are too well 'wrapped' in their epoxy.

Geoff

[alan colson]

I purchased a model of the Joffre that was part built. The person that started to build it had taken the hull and put it on a set of scales, placed all the white metal fittings, battery, radio, servos, in fact everything into the hull, read the instruction book which said the model should weigh XX (can't remember what it was) ammount. They then made up some lead ingots and stuck them in the hull with no thought whatsoever as to the positioning they should be in. I had to remove these and in doing so punctured the hull in several places. I repared these holes completed the model sailed it on several occasions before selling it on. The message I am trying to get across is don't make the mistake of ballasting brfore the build is complete whichever method you chose.
Alan

[Pat Matthews]

I try to build in either lidded compartments, or cradles to hold capped lengths of PVC pipe... the latter being removable for the easier lifting of large models. Then loose lead shot goes into either. The container contains, and there is none of that dangerous shifting of ballast.

Knowing the density of lead and the fact that you get about 70% fill efficiency with round shot, you can calculate the volume of the needed containers... if you already know how much ballast is needed!

[roycv]

Hi, you can get lead shot in the UK from gunsmiths as far as I know.
regards Roy