Topic: Soldering (Read 19966 times)

DickyD · « **on:** February 02, 2007, 12:41:34 pm »

I have been muddling along with my old soldering iron, flux and solder for years.
I'm sure things have changed over time.
Can you tell me what you use in the way of fluxes, solders etc for soldering small brass fittings [handrails etc] in this modern age.
Thanks.

Richard

PS nothing too technical please

Telstar · « **Reply #1 on:** February 02, 2007, 03:33:50 pm »

Hi For soldering joints either too large for cored solder or where I need to use a blow torch, I use Fluxite, its a paste and comes in tins about the size of a tin of shoe polish, its not seriously corrosive and can be applied to the cleaned joint direct before heating, after soldering any residue can be washed off.
I think it can be bought at Maplins, although I usually get mine (on loan) from work, they get it from Buck & Ryan tools supplier
Cheers Tom

Peterm · « **Reply #2 on:** February 02, 2007, 03:35:45 pm »

Richard, just like you, the old things. (Not you, the equipmentt). Pete M

Faraday's Cage · « **Reply #3 on:** February 02, 2007, 06:35:04 pm »

Richard,

I suppose the biggest change of late is the demise of Tin/Lead mixture solder which has been replaced by lead free solder.

I believe that lead free solder has a higher melting point than the Tin/lead variety although I havent tried it myself yet.

Maybe someone can comment of the suitability of lead free solder for the hobby. Better or worse than Tin/Lead solder ?

Terry.

Made it to 80 (25p Richer now) · « **Reply #4 on:** February 02, 2007, 11:14:03 pm »

there was an article in one of the comics on soldering and the lead free solders but sorry can,t remember which one it was; was only a few months ago though

Doc · « **Reply #5 on:** February 03, 2007, 08:08:18 am »

Richard,
I use a very small diameter 'rosen' core solder and a soldering pencil/gun. Primarily 'cuz I do some electronics stuff and that's what I happen to have. Certainly not the 'best' solution, but it works for me.
- 'Doc

Stan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 03, 2007, 08:22:36 am »

:)Hi Richard

You can by solder paste now. You clean the joint appply the paste apply heat and you have good soldered joint down side not cheap depends on how much soldering you do if you need any further info reply via mayhem.

all the best

Stan :)

barriew · « **Reply #7 on:** February 03, 2007, 09:59:47 am »

I normally use a Proxon low voltage iron, although I do have a selection of mains powered ones up to 30w for heavier jobs. I use old fashioned leaded resin core solder most of the time, but when I needed some finer guage a little while ago I found that Maplins only had lead free. It appears to be OK, but I use the leaded for preference. The roll I bought many, many years ago will outlast me! I also have a tin of resin flux which is even older - bought by my Father when we built our first model boat in the early '50s!

Barrie

HS93 (RIP) · « **Reply #8 on:** February 03, 2007, 10:37:06 am »

I use a temp ctr Iron ,because you need to be able to put enough heat on quick, if the iron is not up to it you end up heating all of the item and not just the bit you want to solder.go for one that can take a large bit as well as small, the large bit will hold its heat better.I don't like the instant heat guns as they are not that easy to use and don't make the heat.I use backers fluid for flux and use resin solder as well. the resin core is ok as long as you clean it well after.on the subject of cleaning it all must be very very clean I use wet and dry "dry" to clean and then industrial methes. I do a lot of brass work and find this has been the best up to now ..But its only my thoughts

DickyD · « **Reply #9 on:** February 03, 2007, 11:08:58 am »

Quote from: Youngat65 on February 02, 2007, 11:14:03 pm

there was an article in one of the comics on soldering and the lead free solders but sorry can,t remember which one it was; was only a few months ago though

Not that hard to find then ? ???

Richard

Made it to 80 (25p Richer now) · « **Reply #10 on:** February 03, 2007, 02:53:30 pm »

Still looking for the article Richard I think this ties in with a certain other thread on this forum.................how silly can I be
Cheers
Bob B

DickyD · « **Reply #11 on:** February 03, 2007, 03:06:55 pm »

It's alright Bob, we just put it down to your age

Richard

RickF · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2007, 04:55:37 pm »

I'm still using Wilkinsons best 40/60 tin/lead multicore - dead cheap and still available. It does have a warning on it that it must not be used for domestic water supplies though.

For flux, when needed, I have a tub of paste bought at least 20 years ago - seems to last for ever!

Rick

Seaspray · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2007, 05:36:44 pm »

I worked for a large well know M.O.D. PCB supplier some years ago.

Firstly they change from the ordinary oilyish solder flux to a water base flux. Then scrapped the use of flux completely.

They found great trouble in cleaning the flux from the finished PCB.

I use Maplins solder in the small plastic container they sell it in and don't bother with flux at all.There is flux in small cores in some of the solder sold.

tobyker · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2007, 11:47:03 pm »

And of course if you want proper brass yacht fittings to last, use silver solder. With the proper flux and a good little torch. you can make sound joints very easily. I prefer it to the soft stuff for fittings that are actually going to have to do some work like sheet horses and masthead stay attachments.

John R Haynes · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2007, 06:29:11 pm »

Tin/lead solder is still available , although not from Squires who used to get all their products from Carrs. If you need a supplier try Eileen's Emporium 0208 766 6696 Tin/lead is ok to use for Hobbies but not for the Electrical/ electronics industry .

MikeK · « **Reply #16 on:** February 05, 2007, 09:18:52 am »

Quote from: tobyker on February 03, 2007, 11:47:03 pm

And of course if you want proper brass yacht fittings to last, use silver solder. With the proper flux and a good little torch. you can make sound joints very easily. I prefer it to the soft stuff for fittings that are actually going to have to do some work like sheet horses and masthead stay attachments.

I tried making jib racks etc a while ago and while they were certainly strong enough joints, the brass went soft on me. In the dim and distant memories of metalwork lessons I recall something about dunking in various liquids. Could anyone refresh my memory, please ??? ??? or was my heat source (Butane torch) too wide a flame. ?
Cheers

Mikek

catengineman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:37:09 am »

Hi MikeK,
Sounds like your flame was too hot >:(
I have a pen size blow lamp, refillable from a lighter refill can, and if you are steady you (me) can bond brass without solders.
I will say it is easier with though :)
If it is brass rods it can be done with a soldering iron (large tip- not normally used for electronic work) and a tip if you use various grades of solder which melt at decreasing temperatures then the like of stancheons etc become easier to assemble as the first soldered joint does not melt :)

only my opinion and what do I know?

Seaspray · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2007, 02:13:16 pm »

Silver soldering needs more heat than ordinary soldering.Which may require you to use heat sinks of some kind or your metal will get too hot and buckle a little at a time or solder in different places if possible. I don't dip in liquids, this is only when you are tempering or cleaning

I remember back in the late 70s we charged customers 5p an inch when silver soldering plus the price of time for the job. The silver solder rods were locked away by the foreman cause it was so expensive then.

John W E · « **Reply #19 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:17:22 pm »

Hi all, whilst on the topic of soldering - I just had a good conversation today with one of the guys in Electronize - I was querying the quality of the new solder - the solder that comes with their kits and I was informed that all of their kits from now on will contain the lead free solder and the boards will be tinned with lead free tinning. The circuit boards will apparently have either a copper or gold colour to them.

It is recommended when soldering with the new solder that all susceptible components i.e. transistors, diodes and i.c's should be soldered with the aid of a heat-sink - in place between the solder joint and the actual component. I used a small crocodile clip as a heat sink.

Even though the new solder is cord solder with flux in, personally I found it difficult to get a good solder joint without applying extra heat. What Electronize suggested to me, was, a 40 watt soldering iron with a fine tip and variable temperature. so....it looks like a little bit more expense to get any good results with this new solder.

aye
john e
bluebird

MikeK · « **Reply #20 on:** February 12, 2007, 02:35:51 pm »

Thanks for the info Catengineman and Seaspray, looks like the big blowtorch was too fierce. Next time I'm in Maplins or the like I might treat myself to a tiddly blowtorch as you mentioned. Just hope I can still lay my hands on the baccy tin with the silver solder and flux powder in !!

Sorry about the delay in replying - one of those 'Senior Moments' that seem to be getting more frequent

Cheers

MikeK

HS93 (RIP) · « **Reply #21 on:** February 12, 2007, 02:41:15 pm »

As soon as you use a flame you loose controle of the heat , It is properly better if you get an old iron the type you heat on a flame or a big lump of copper, you need to get the heat on and of as soon as possable and a flame wont do that.so unless you are going to silver solderuse an ironyou will find it much essayer.Peter

Seaspray · « **Reply #22 on:** February 15, 2007, 03:34:00 pm »

Hi all
My old foreman told me heat was the secret to silver soldering. He always used a larger the usual nozzle on the gas gun and done the silver soldering around firebrick and it worked.

MikeK · « **Reply #23 on:** February 15, 2007, 03:55:41 pm »

Quote from: Seaspray on February 15, 2007, 03:34:00 pm

Hi all
My old foreman told me heat was the secret to silver soldering. He always used a larger the usual nozzle on the gas gun and done the silver soldering around firebrick and it worked.

That's what I did - made a little hearth out of bricks and used a standard sized gas blowlamp - and as I said the joints were great but you could nearly chew the brass, it was so soft

MikeK

HS93 (RIP) · « **Reply #24 on:** February 15, 2007, 08:14:04 pm »

MikeK iF the metal is going that soft its because its getting to hot I do some fittings using both silver and soft(you have to do the silver first some are very intricate and using a lot of heat would distroy them ,with silver you see a lot of people flux it up then wrap the silver solder around the joint or use silver solder past then use just enough heat for it to flow (If its a boiler then loads of heat). I use very, very, fine silver solder . and a lot of cleaning It works for me ..Anyway I think the post was about soft solder for railings etc where a good heat sink (Bulldog clip) helps so as not to spread the heat..Below is a fitting which needed both silver and soft solder.
Peter

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Author Topic: Soldering (Read 19966 times)

Telstar

catengineman