...there is
ANOTHER way to go - which I've successfully done on a few servos of different manufacture...
You will need - a multimeter/ohmeter, soldering iron & solder (!), and various small resistors.
Essentially - this is the 'Servo Morph' in a DIY form - but without the option to slow the servo transit speed.
If tht IS a requirement - then buy a P96 -
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/mixers.phpAssuming that a DIY 'option' is OK for what you want... ( I only want more sheet travel in Footy yachts )
Choose the servo that you want to 'travel more'...!
Make a hole in the centre of a square of card and place it over the servo output shaft - and secure it with small pieces of tape.
Fit a double output arm to the servo - then operate the servo with your transmitter and mark the card with three lines \ | / to indicate the two extremes of travel and the centre position of the arm. Leave the stick trim centred.
Turn everything off and unplug the servo from the receiver - then remove the servo screws and the bottom portion of the case.
Pull out any sticky-foam packing/insulation - and find the three wires connecting the feedback potentiometer ( directly under the servo output shaft ) to the little circuit board.
Carefully separate the three wires so that you have the centre and two outer wires easily recognisable.
With side cutters, carefully snip the OUTER wires - and bare a few mm of wire using your nails...
A hand-tool will go right through...!
With the two pairs of bare wire accessible - position the servo output arm carefully to one side to the position marked by the first line \ - and measure the resistance in the first wire that you cut - and write it down on the left of a sheet of paper...
Then move the servo arm to the other line / - and measure the resistance in the other in the second wire that you cut - and write it down on the right of a sheet of paper...
Now move the servo arm carefully again - back past the 'centre' and the \ line - to a position at
around[/b] 80 degrees from the centre.
Again - measure the resistance in the first wire that you cut - and write it down on the left of a sheet of paper...
Now - do the same for the other side.
Move the servo arm again back past the 'centre' and the / line to a position at around 80 degrees from the centre on the other side...
and measure the resistance in the second wire that you cut - and write it down on the right of a sheet of paper...
OK - you will then have two figures on the left of your sheet of paper - and two on the right.
Both sets of figures should be similar...
Deduct the smaller number from the larger for each side of the paper - and you will have a figure for the value of
extra resistance required to drive the servo arm to the 'new' position.
Simply choose the nearest resistor value for each side - and solder a small resistor in line with each of the wires you cut.
Wrap the whole lot - wire and resistor at each side - with a little piece of tape, tuck everything in carefully and refit any sticky-foam packing/insulation.
Refit the bottom of the case and a couple of the screws - and try it.
If all is done properly - the servo will move faster than normally - for the stick movement - and will end up at a position farther than before.
Fit the other servos screws - and play !
150 - 160 degrees TOTAL movement is about as much as you should try for.
I've successfully modified an HS-85MG servo for 170 degrees of movement - but that's the max with metal gears, I'd say.
If you are not confident with 'playing about' with electronics and a soldering iron - or if you value your servos - buy a P96.
Keven.