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[Sandy]

Hi,

As a newbie/novice, I have been reading as many threads as I can find about portholes and the fact that everyone seems keen to drill holes in their hulls and then worry/fret about sealing them up.

Is there any way of making or representing portholes without actually drilling holes through the hull?

The ship I am interested in modelling has not many portholes but they are low down near the waterline and I am not hugely keen on having holes (even sealed) there.

The hull will be black, so is there any good way of,say, painting on a porthole? Any tips or tricks?

Thanks in advance.

Sandy

[Lord Bungle]

newbe to all this myself, my boat doesn't have them but a quick look on the Bay of E turned these up, not sure if they are of any use
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Model-boat-fitting-Ships-brass-Porthole-7mm-diameter-/350329965445?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item51914b0b85#ht_2165wt_754

[Colin Bishop]

Drilling holes isn't always the best method. The photo below shows my Fishery Cruiser Brenda (still incomplete!). The portholes you can see are made by first making up rings of brass wire by winding it around a former of the correct diameter, cutting off individual rings and soldering the ends together. If you look around craft shops you might actually find rings of the correct size. The rings are then superglued to the finished hull surface. Then I take a sheet of clear polystyrene and paint one side dark blue. The next step is to punch out discs from the plastic using a leather punch or appropriately sized hole punch. The final stage is to put a dab of polyurethane varnish into the circle of each ring and gently push the plastic disc in painted side down.

Brenda is 1/48th scale. For smaller scales you may be able to get away with simply punching out discs from self adhesive blue vinyl Trimline tape and simply sticking them on which is what I shall be doing with my 1/150th scale liner model.

Colin

[Lord Bungle]

I think any method that gets away from having to drill holes near the waterline should be used, As Colin has just shown a carefully applied bit of paint and a bit of know how will save drilling holes

[RaaArtyGunner]

Drilling holes isn't always the best method. The photo below shows my Fishery Cruiser Brenda (still incomplete!). The portholes you can see are made by first making up rings of brass wire by winding it around a former of the correct diameter, cutting off individual rings and soldering the ends together. If you look around craft shops you might actually find rings of the correct size. The rings are then superglued to the finished hull surface. Then I take a sheet of clear polystyrene and paint one side dark blue. The next step is to punch out discs from the plastic using a leather punch or appropriately sized hole punch. The final stage is to put a dab of polyurethane varnish into the circle of each ring and gently push the plastic disc in painted side down.

Brenda is 1/48th scale. For smaller scales you may be able to get away with simply punching out discs from self adhesive blue vinyl Trimline tape and simply sticking them on which is what I shall be doing with my 1/150th scale liner model.

Colin

Neat, very neat
 

[Shipmate60]

James Lane who makes the railings produces exterior fitting portholes in most popular sizes.
Unfortunately no website.

JAMES LANE (Dispay Models)
30 Broadway
Blyth
Northumberland
NE24 2PP

Bob

[dodgy geezer]

....The portholes you can see are made by first making up rings of brass wire by winding it around a former of the correct diameter, cutting off individual rings and soldering the ends together.....
Colin

if you make the rings out of copper wire you can tap each one with a hammer before fitting, and get a flat disk rather than a rounded one...

[TomTheKraut]

Hello Team,
... I like the "glue-on" portholes to Colin's design.
However, if you want to have the portholes illuminated, you won't be able to avoid the holes. 

[Sandy]

Many thanks for the replies, especially Colin. (thanks for the photo also. Any chance of a close up of one please?).

Did you experiment with various shades of blue and settle on a dark one as being best? Any chance of a close up of one please?

I now recall that many of the shipbuilders models in the Glasgow Transport Museum used blue disks for portholes (but that was years ago. I am sure the last time I saw many of them was when they were in the Kelvingrove Art Gallery. Looking forward to seeing them again when the new building opens next year).

All the best
Sandy

[rathikrishna]

Oh..god great..one more head ache is rectified...thank you all for the nice informations...

[tonyH]

How about using multicore solder rather than brass/copper wire. It is easier to wind round the former, seems to stick well, flattens more easily with an 'ammer and you can cut it off the former with a stanley knife. You can even trim the ends square with the same knife. It also follows any hull contours better in that it doesn't spring back. It also works well with odd shaped portholes where tight corners can be involved.

Tony

[dodgy geezer]

How about using multicore solder rather than brass/copper wire.....

but just try soldering the ends together...!

[triumphjon]

im sure ive seen some self adhesive brass look ones at my local model shop that are made by becc ! ive not used them myself so cant vouch for how good they may be . most of my models are to inch to the foot scale motor cruisers so if i need portlights they are generally well above the water line !  good luck .

[tonyH]

but just try soldering the ends together...!

I'm not into chain making DG, just a dab of paint will do for me

[dodgy geezer]

I'm not into chain making DG, just a dab of paint will do for me

the way model-making works for me - anything that CAN come unstuck WILL come unstuck. Always at the most critical juncture...

[Dreadstar]

The self adhesive BECC ones are quite effective actually,I use them quite a lot,it saves you having to drill any holes in the hull and you don't need to worry about sealing them afterwards.

[rathikrishna]

Hai Dread..what is BECC..?..will you explain..?

[Shipmate60]

Rathu,
It is the name of a company.
It is in the traders list at the bottom of the forum.

Bob

[tugboyben]

hi rathikrishna

the link to becc

http://www.becc.co.uk/

jason

[rathikrishna]

Good after noon,and thank you Gentlemen,wow..its a great link and place indeed..can i purchase things from there..?..will they respond..?..any guidance..?

[Colin Bishop]

Rathikrishna

They do not normally sell direct, only through their dealers, some of whom are listed on their home page.

Cornwall Model Boats stock BECC products and will ship worldwide: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/

Westbourne Models also stock their products: http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/

Colin

[rathikrishna]

Sir..its great help..i am on the way of searching..and will do needful..thank you once again for the links..with respect.

[rathikrishna]

Hai friends..i am too thank full to you all..because i got an advice to use solder wires to make circles..ohhh..what a nice idea...previously i was struggling with heavy brass or steel wires, as my fingers loss the skin as i forces with round tiped nose pliers...and shaping was a great problem ,especially on an uneven surface...its too easy and its too neat to workwith...how informative people all you are...thank god...

[Bryan Young]

if you make the rings out of copper wire you can tap each one with a hammer before fitting, and get a flat disk rather than a rounded one...

Shouldn't be a rounded edge. More of a knife edge showing outside the hull. BY

[dodgy geezer]

Shouldn't be a rounded edge. More of a knife edge showing outside the hull. BY

If you flatten the copper wire circle it will look less rounded. And it's surprisingly easy to turn copper wire into a square section with a few hammer strokes, or a squeeze in a vice, and make it much closer to a knife edge. Solder would be even easier - perhaps too easy...?