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Author Topic: Mary J Ward Build  (Read 29181 times)

romainpek

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #25 on: April 04, 2007, 03:25:08 PM »

Thanks Tiger !

Staining has started yesterday already (wild cherry tree color). I will later try to glue this straight wooden keel on the curved plastic one...

Did you try to fit the cutwater at the same time or later as in the instruction ?
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #26 on: April 04, 2007, 03:45:01 PM »

I fixed the cuttwater after painting the hull. I prefered this to masking.

I just scratched paint through to hull to allow it to take.

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romainpek

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #27 on: April 10, 2007, 07:43:11 AM »

Hi Tiger,

I followed your advice. I'm finishing the hull paint before gluing any wood piece to it.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #28 on: April 11, 2007, 02:43:38 AM »

You might need to fix the keel and keel trunk before painting.
I would also suggest you fix the siderails and deck before painting. CA and painted surfaces don't mix to well. As the CA will haze or melt the paint. When fitting the afforementioned I used a lot of CA.

Also everything will tend to take knocks in construction.


But because of the cutwater showing above the waterline I affixed this last. And the cut water needed less CA, and it was Gel so did not run.

Sorry if I caused any confusion before.
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romainpek

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #29 on: April 11, 2007, 09:42:40 AM »

 :'(

well, we'll see what'll happen...It's all painted now...
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #30 on: April 11, 2007, 11:15:35 AM »

:'(

well, we'll see what'll happen...It's all painted now...


It should be OK anyway.
Remember to scrape the a bit of the paint off the hull where you apply the glue. That way you will be gluing direct to the hull and not just the paint. Much stronger.
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herrmill

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #31 on: April 22, 2007, 02:21:53 PM »

Tiger,

So when is the christening / maiden voyage party for Mary Jayne scheduled?   ;)

Its been a few weeks since we last had the chance to sail.  Let me know if you'll around any of the upcoming May holiday.  My PT boat is finally on the water so I'll be able to offer some protection against the drunken holiday boaters out at Century Park.  Give me another month & I'll bring out the whole damn IJN fleet, but then ALL the locals will think its an honor to run me down with a paddleboat!  >:(

Regards,

Chuck
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #32 on: April 22, 2007, 04:32:41 PM »

Hi Hermil

Just ordered some deadeyes and a couple of bits to finish her off (from UK). So should be on the water over spring break.
I have been working for the last two weekends on URGENT projects.

I just finsihed one (11pm Sunday) to find an email was sent at 9.40 tonight postponing till June. Not happy.
I should keel haul 'em. Arrr Jim Laaadd

So I will take a few days of to work on the old schooner.
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herrmill

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #33 on: April 23, 2007, 12:40:49 AM »

She is looking very nice!   

I'll be out for a few days over the holiday between 5/3-5, but other than that will be here praying for nice weather & a steady breeze. 

Call me when you want to get wet again. 

Chuck
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romainpek

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #34 on: April 23, 2007, 01:55:14 PM »

Nice to see other "chinese" are doing RC boats !

Tiger, I need your help... again... I'm at step 16 (out of 98) and this is a crucial moment as I must saw my outer wooden keel to free the access to the slot in the hull for the sailing keel.

The instructions + the graph show that I must count 11 1/2 " from the aft end of the keel piece to do the rear cut... but that would be about 1" inside the slot !

I measured 4 times already, no way I could do a mistake. Did you have the same surprise ? did you cut at 10 1/2 instead of 11 1/2" ?

(these imperial units are so *#^#!@... charming...)
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #35 on: April 24, 2007, 03:53:47 AM »

It was spot on for me.  8)

Have you allowed for the Sternpost?  ???

Imperial measures.
Ironic, the first nation to break the Chains of Empire seems to be the last hanging on grimly to its measurements.   ;)

I think even Canada is metric. I was there in the early 80s and road speeds were in kph

People often forget that metric isn't an EU thing, it is global.  ::)
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romainpek

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #36 on: April 24, 2007, 04:21:09 AM »

I will take pictures to show you later on tonight but I do really think that the slot is not where it should be...

As a proof, I glued my main mast foot holder according to the measurements of the instructions without thinking about the slot. It is located so close to the slot that I could not glue the fin trunk holder properly over the slot...

Basically, I have 2 choices :
-Either I use the actual slot and i must cut the keel according to its position, shorten the fin trunk so that it fits correctly, modify the radio holder so that the hole is really above the fin nut and I'll end up with a MJW with a fin more aft than designed...
-or I cut the keel according to instructions, find a way to fill the slot at the back and extend it at the front. No more modifs needed.

I think solution 2 is safer... I wrote to Victor Models yesterday but that's the 3rd mail that goes unanswered (the first 2 for missing parts  :( )
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #37 on: April 24, 2007, 05:02:41 AM »

Please stop. It sounds like you are compounding errors.
Don't panic, as CA glue can be broken.

It sounds like you have something wrong with your ruler, or if you are converting to metric your formula is out.
It seems like somethings are one inch out.

All the measurements on the plan worked for me. But not always first time.

You can see from the plan where the foot for the main mast should be. Roughly mark this out with a pencil.
Then measure from where it should be to the stern (on the boat not from the plan).
Compare this measurement with that on the plan. Sometimes if I do this and/or compare the difference a penny will drop.

Did you measure the mast footings and compare with the beams first? These could be out.

I found the measurements on the plan a bit odd, but if I dry assembled 3 or 4 times first (then slept on it) the measurements made sense.

You may have to break off a few bits and re-glue.
Worst case the beams are out. But they can be re-glued onto a bigger gusset and some filler added.

If you are using a steel tape, then also go out and buy a steel rule (or two). B&Q do a nice range and one of the 24" rullers has a good conversion table on the back, usefull for choosing drill bits.

BTW the drill bit sizes quoted are not critical. Just go for nearest metric.

So again, go back to the drawings, and try to see where the original error lies.

Good Luck.
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romainpek

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #38 on: April 24, 2007, 07:27:22 AM »

I'll take pictures and you'll tell me what I did wrong.

I don't need to do conversions because I have a steel ruler which is both metric and imperial. Also the masts seemed to look and rake fine when inserted in their beams and footings.

The footings position is measured from the inside of the hull. The keel cutting position is measured from the outside of the keel. Both these measurements matched each other and indicated that the slot is one inch more aft than it should be...
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #39 on: April 25, 2007, 02:39:59 AM »

I am looking at your pictures and scratching my head
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #40 on: May 03, 2007, 12:19:27 PM »

I decided to update her to the early 20th century and decided she would have some lighting.

I went for a series circuit as this means only one strand of wire to hide.
I also mixed 2v and 3v LEDs with no problems.

First pic is the 24v board, very ruff, using two 12v doorbell batteries.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #41 on: May 03, 2007, 12:29:41 PM »

I apoloogise for only posting one or two pics each time. I have bandwidth problems. so posting is a pig.


There are two circuits.
One running up one mast, across the triasic stay, down the fore mast, and into and around the cabin.
No pics

The second exits at the transom for the stern light and then runs under the handrail down the port side to the stem and returns on the starboard.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #42 on: May 03, 2007, 12:34:49 PM »

Fixing the wire under the handrails required the use of CA gel and tacking with electrical insulating tape.

An extra piece of wood was put inboard of the handrails. This was drilled to feed up wires for Navigation lights. It will also be used for belay pins.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #43 on: May 03, 2007, 12:37:26 PM »

The bowsprit was also shaved a bit to allow the passage of wires for the anchor light.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #44 on: May 03, 2007, 12:45:10 PM »

I decided I did not want to permanently solder inthe LEDs.
The black plastic strip was cut down to size for all fittings of LED.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #45 on: May 03, 2007, 12:58:17 PM »

1.5mm holes were drilled into the cabin roof for deck lights (in know this is not to scale for a 19th century fishing schooner, but I 20th centurified it)

The nav lights are supported by the sticks you get in Starbucks to stir coffee. Glued back to back for a double thickness.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #46 on: May 03, 2007, 01:04:46 PM »

One last snag, literally.

The main sheet was catching on the stern lantern.

Fix was a piece of bent brass rod. (must get round to painting these)
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #47 on: May 03, 2007, 01:14:00 PM »

Trailboards were traced and then carved with a modelling knife, No. 11 scalpel blade.

I was really not looking forward to this but it really was easy.

The wood was then treated with brown shoe polish to bring out the carving.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #48 on: May 03, 2007, 01:17:39 PM »

The paint on the hull was scratched back, to ensure the glue held, before the noble woods and trail boards were fixed.
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tigertiger

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Re: Mary J Ward Build
« Reply #49 on: May 04, 2007, 09:43:35 AM »

Last few jobs now.

Firstly the waterline.
I ordered white trimline for this job. It went on really easy and goes around awkward curves nicely.

The catalogue said 1m length, so I bought two. However I find it is 2.5 m long.
Also, having not seen it, I did not know that there are 7 stripes of varying thickness. So I have enough to do several, nay many, boats now.

After this all was liberally covered with plasticote.

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