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Author Topic: Perkasa 49in Renovation.  (Read 25302 times)

gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #25 on: December 06, 2010, 05:42:58 PM »

I have started to cut out the drop chutes for the turbine exhaust covers to sit in. Well, i cant see the reason why I cant actually sit these covers in their "open position", otherwise, seeing the boat skipping across the water with them all close looks so silly in my opinion. So I will create three exhaust covers which will sit down in their respective cutouts, then drill the stern and insert 3 turbine exhaust pipes keeping them short, with sealed internal ends to prevent water ingress of course, but at least it will look a lot better. I was considering putting all 3 covers on a servo link, so could open/close via landing gear switch on transmitter [thinks long on this one]. but then think of added weight of yet another servo. maybe ok if it get to correct planing speed with my setup, then try this out later.



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Steve. G.
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triumphjon

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #26 on: December 06, 2010, 09:14:36 PM »

you could always use a mini or micro servo its not as if there will be any weight to pull up / down ! why not be different !
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #27 on: December 07, 2010, 07:40:30 PM »

I have now cut a hole in the forward deck, to enable me to do a few jobs:
1/ add additional deck support, as forward deck is flexing,
2/ cut out sections of forward bulkhead, to lighten /weigth save.
3/ allow access to fit gun mount servo, to rotate the 40mm bofors gun monting.

I have also given the rear stern support its first filling, to remove some of the roughness fro  the initial cutting out for the exhaust doors.
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Steve. G.
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Perkasaman2

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #28 on: December 07, 2010, 09:21:41 PM »

You' re really getting stuck in to the hull. The redundant i.c engine mounting tray looks well fixed but it's centre-line position is likely to obstruct your proposed twin turbo layout.......... removing it should save quite a bit of weight.
(I used three matching plastic lids from small camera film containers to simulate the gas turbine exhausts on the transom)  :-)
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2010, 09:28:45 PM »

Thanks for your observation perkasaman, I was "wondering" about that centre mounting, but same time, was wondering if I could still use it for the centre battery mount. but being as it is a sloping panel, its best to remove and replace later with a thinner item.

Will remove carefully, as its a bit close to the hull floor ! plus dont know how good the original chaps glassing was to the underside of this panel to the hull floor either, but here goes !

i'll do this before i start cascamiting the deck beams back to their bulkheads, leave things in a flexi state for now, give me more room to get my oversize paws inside [ha ha].
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #30 on: December 07, 2010, 09:49:21 PM »

Easier and quicker than I thought. I simply drilled a line of holes across the rearward edge, across the baseplate, then joined the dots untill it was fully cut, then gently levered it up and down to break the glue edge at the foremost end and lifted out in one piece !
Still leaves me with an angled keel [piece if I do need to fit a bettery tray along it later.










Thanks for the tip on the exhaust covers, i was thinking of what to use and actually did think of a possibility of using a film tub cover, will dig some out, do have some somewhere!
ive had to post the previous post update pics here, as seemed to of lost them somehow off the post.
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triumphjon

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #31 on: December 07, 2010, 10:22:48 PM »

lightening seems to be going well , its suprising how much extra weight some folks add into what should be a fairly fast model ! keep up the good work . jon
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #32 on: December 07, 2010, 10:36:55 PM »

I suppose it really stems from the "first build". If the person putting the hull together from the box, looks at the manufacturer supplied bits and simply glues them in place, then they are simply following the instructions, "by the book". there are many of us however who "look" at things and think, "does it really need to be this thick/thin?  perhaps we ought to double this items thickness for longetivity perhaps, or on the other hand, we look at some internal bracing pieces and think they would be better off holding up a motorway bridge somewhere!
Yes, it would be great to find a boat where someone has given a lot of though to its original build, but then, we wouldn't have anything to renovate or modify, now would we? [ha ha]. As all models would be as everyone would want them and be totally boring for us

I've now mixed up some cascamite and rebonded in the  internal bulkheads, where they have sprung away from the wooden deck, this will set nicely overnight, along with the forward brace i have installed to support the forward deck, forward of the bofors mount.

Time me thinks for a cuppa !
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #33 on: December 08, 2010, 05:24:30 PM »

Following on from my sucess in removing the old engine tray, I had a go at removing the original fuel tank from the stern compartment. Witha few well aimed strikes from a wide bladed chisel, yep, the wooden plinth has reached the bin too!  I was amazed how little was actually holding this in place and is now leading me to be more than concerned with the strength of the remaining fibreglassing, put in by the original owner. It seems all the resin is in the very outer layer and nothing has soaked through to the lower matting, or to the actual hull glass mat itself !

makes you think don't it ?

I have also drilled the turbine exhausts out, in fact i will not only use the plastic film container lids for the exhaust covers, but use the little plastic tubes for the exhaust pipes too. Well why not, they are open one end and totally sealed the other, saving me a job of making some plastic tubes and end caps. One the insides are painted black/charcoal grey, they should look reasonably acceptable.





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Steve. G.
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triumphjon

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #34 on: December 08, 2010, 05:41:40 PM »

its a pity those film cans wernt black ones ! they are looking rather close to the tiller arms , or do the arms sit 90 deg around when they are connected ?
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Perkasaman2

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #35 on: December 08, 2010, 05:46:05 PM »

Good idea! I had'nt thought of using the cannisters.......... DOH!!!!!  :}
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #36 on: December 08, 2010, 05:52:58 PM »

There is at least 15mm clearance over the tops of the rudder post levers, plus none of the rudder link arms are secured as yet. I want to "dry fit" everything in the stern first before securing anything in place. that way, i am fully sure everything will operate and not foul any link.

yes, i did loom for some black tubs, but like everything else, you've thrown them away ages ago !
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triumphjon

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #37 on: December 08, 2010, 09:13:35 PM »

isnt htat the story of most things , havnt thought of a use in ages , then the day or so after youve binned it you can think of a use for it ! good to check everything fits and works before closing section off ,
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #38 on: December 08, 2010, 09:47:02 PM »

My , er, "intentions" are to finish off the exhaust holes, make sure the film tubs are a good fit, then sort the rudder linkages out, make a mount for the rudder servo and get that set in place, then complete the rudder links, then finally, setting the exhausts back in final place. I can then say that the stern section [internally] is done and dusted. yes, Still have the lower transom flap to put on, but thats external.

but still thinking of the small micro servo for the exhaust doors too.....................

but plenty of room for that to happen, even with all the rudder  links in place, as all the doors can connect/link to one long brass rod, then it only needs a single lever slot through the transom to operate it...............

lets just say, that bit's still in the technical design dep't !
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Steve. G.
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triumphjon

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #39 on: December 08, 2010, 10:45:43 PM »

boredom has had me looking on the british military powerboat trust web site this evening , look under brave class and follow the pages down , as there are some interesting drawings & diagrams showing the linkages used on the full sized vessels , it may be of some interest to how to set up your model ? the diagrams i was looking at show both the transom flap and the exhaust covers which appear to be linked ? they also have some good black and white photographs showing various boats . jon
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Perkasaman2

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #40 on: December 08, 2010, 11:17:56 PM »

The kits are sold with a very good booklet full of info + pix and it's well worth getting a hold of for detail......... unfortunately I've misplaced mine and coupled with the fact that my scanner is now jamming, does'nt help matters if I locate it.  %) Perhaps another Mayhemmer has a copy available. The kits are currently sold, supplied and copyright of 'Anglia Model Centre' and they may help:

  http://www.angliamodelcentre.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=13

(There has been some criticism of the quality of these kits in the past, but they do still represent very good value for money, especially the 1:24 scale, which does make into a very large and impressive model on the pond.

I don't know if you've chosen motor mounts, but Mark of MMB sells a hybrid which can mount 700/800 motors and will give excellent clearance if cooling coils are needed later.His range of couplings are also quiet and 'length adjustable'. He also retails an inexpensive motor/gearbox for radar. His site is well worth a look:

http://marksmodelbits.ieasysite.com/index.html

 
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #41 on: December 14, 2010, 03:17:12 PM »

Thanks perkasaman, Your comments are noted. I have already ordered my prop shafts via Mark @ MMB, as his versions seemed a good buy. I have not yet ordered motor mounts, as yet, no finances to buy the motors ! Will see what lands in my lap on the 25th of the month first before going for broke.
im just starting to link uip the ruddeers at present, making my own threaded/adjustable link rods, prior to then fixing the  lower transom flap hinges in place, adding thr link rod for the exhaust flaps, then bonding in the exhaust tubes.

Want to start at the bottom point of the stern first, then work my way upwards to deck level, so I dont leave myself in a position where Ive fixed something in, but need to get "below" its level for something else.  It could well still happen, but thats my intentions for now.
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #42 on: December 17, 2010, 05:23:30 PM »

I have finally recieved copy of the original perkasa build booklet, provided by precedent. it has some wonderful images to help my renovation and revamp to give the boat more details.







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Steve. G.
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Perkasaman2

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #43 on: December 17, 2010, 05:46:18 PM »

 :-))
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #44 on: January 04, 2011, 10:23:53 PM »

managed to do a small bit of conversion to the boat over the Christmas break. I have had a go at correcting the open bridge layout. There appeared to be a door missing leading forward to the forward cabin. So now, instead of a full width instrument panel , I have cut away part of the panel and remade a door and aperture for it.




I have also now had the twin stainless steel  propeller shafts arrive from MMB, just awaiting sufficient finances to cover purchase of the 2 700bb turbo motors and mounts to install the power plant.
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Steve. G.
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triumphjon

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #45 on: January 04, 2011, 11:08:04 PM »

check out howes models of oxford , they have had the 600 turbos on offer they may have 700s too !
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #46 on: January 13, 2011, 11:21:54 PM »

Have now recieved delivery of the power plant for my renovation project.
A pair of Graupner 700BB turbo's !
Pair of 13inch length 5mm dia prop shafts

2- 45x props.

Will of course be running twin 12v battery gel pack to give the boat some cruising time in the water.

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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #47 on: January 18, 2011, 04:12:25 PM »

I am now in recipt of a pair of 700BB turbo's and motor mounts, with the kind thanks to Perkasaman [yet again], your offer on these items is greatly appreciated.

I am now about to install the powerplants, but before doing so, I have modified the alloy motor mounts as I noticed that the air cooling slots on the front face of the motors could nto draw air through the motor mount face. So after a little marking out, ive added 4 air slots to enable the internal air fan to draw air fully through the motors when rotating.

I also have drilled a couple of 22mm diameter holes in the motor bases, this is to allow the P40 glass mat and resin, I will  use to bond the mounts down in the hull to fill "in and over" to make sure the mounts are fully bonded to the hull floor, rather than just lay soem resin or epoxy over the top and "hope for the best".





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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #48 on: January 19, 2011, 11:20:46 PM »

I have now installed the motor mountings and propeller shafts. I find its a job that has to be done "all together", to ensure as far as possible, that all is correctly in-line and will run as true as possible. 

So first thing is to put some masking tape on the underside of the hull, mark the centre line, then from the centreline, equally space the propeller shaft "runs" to these lines. I had already got these in place, when I installed the rudders, so I only now had to drill the initial hole to make a start for the propeller tubes.
Don't forget that these holes are not "circular", but a very long "oval" shape, and it takes some careful drilling initially, followed by  a round file, to get the shape almost right.
now you can slide the propshaft tubes through inside the hull  attach the universal joints and then on to the motor drive shafts, making sure the mounting screws for the motors are only "finger tight", so you can remove them easily later. I then placed some balsa blocks between the prop tubes and the hull underside to then line up the motors with the hull internal floor, to make sure the mounts sat flat against it.
once happy, I marked the hull floor to show position of the motor mounts, removed the mounts and shafts, removed the motors from the mounts and them proceeded to bond the mounts to the hull floor with glass fibre paste, this i pushed in to the big holes i predrilled in the mounts to ensure the glass fibre mixed with the layer applied to the hull floor, to help make a full bond.
once this was dry I refitted the motors and reattached the drive couplings and propeller shafts. then with the balsa blocks in place, I initially used some epoxy resin mix to affix the propeller shafts in line to the underside of the hull . Once this was dry, and rechecking the angles of the propeller shafts, i then added a further layer of glass fibre paste to the hull holes made for the shafts to exit, to fill up the gaps around the shaft exits. Last job was to add a propeller shaft support, 20mm from the end of the shafts, behind the propeller, to add a bit of support to the tubes, to reduce the risk of excess vibration when under load.








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gregk9

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Re: Perkasa 49in Renovation.
« Reply #49 on: January 21, 2011, 05:27:48 PM »

Whilst waiting for some rudder arms, as the ones supplied with the rudders are not suitable and dont give me equal swing angle both ways, i have attached the transom flap to the stern. I have used a couple of nylon aircraft aeleron hinges to make the pivots and to attach the hinges securely, i used plastic rivets through the hioles pre drilled in the hinges, simply transferring these through the transom flap itself. It was then justa simple case of using my instant soldering gun to melt the tip of the plastic rivet to mushrom the head to for the fixation. Once all the rivets were complete, i simply spread some exopy resin over the rivet heads on the inside of the stern where the rivet heads came through, to ensure a full watertight seal.
I will make up the transom flap adjustment arms as next item to do, but wanted the epoxy to dry off first before moving anything else.



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