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Author Topic: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.  (Read 8593 times)

gregk9

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Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« on: December 02, 2010, 11:54:19 AM »

Following on from my encouraging start in tug building of my Lesro kit Sun Tug, Ive decided to build one from scratch! and worse still, from Plasticard !!!!
Ive chosen to have a go at the "Egrete" pusher tug, the plans of which are available from my hobby store, as well as a flat pack of plastic sheets to help with the build.
Ive always enjoyed making plastic kits in the past, so in one respect, its the "next step" up the kit build ladder. I have to admit, joining plastic has to be so much easier than joining wood, plus with wood, you then have to treat the stuff to ensure it prevents water from seeping in.

yes, ok so the wooden fans of this world will now be up in arms about this statement [my appologies] but for those people still "wary" of the "wood in water fear". yes, using plastic sheet does have its downsides too, it may be lighter and easier to join, but it ahs its weakenss of being very flexible, not unless you make sure that any long lengths of sheet is supported by cross beams and strengtheners. these do add structural strength and rigidity surprisingly enough, as you will see during the build blog.
A few people have built these in the past and dont seem to of been able to cope with some operational parts, but I have managed to make the wheelhouse motorised, linking in the wheelhouse mast, and also making the twin radars rotate and all on an elevating deck too!.  thats one of the reasons for placing this build, so thats others may have the encouragenment now, to have a go at one of these interesting pusher tugs too.
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2010, 04:25:04 PM »

Right, to make a start by cutting out some of the hull base and attach some of the strengtheners I mentioned, as these support both the hull base but the stern area, where the kort units will mount, so has to be fairly strong and not flex about. I used the recommended 1.5mm thick plasticard for the hull base and sides, adding triangular wedges in along the length of the corner joints to add strength but also to keep the pieces at right angles.
I did however vary from the original plans a little, I added a 1.5m thick ply baseboard in, purely where one of the twin 6v batteries will lay on its side. Just to help spread the weight out evenly as possible.  The second battery side again on its side, but over the prop shafts towards the stern, to keep the weight even.
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2010, 07:49:17 PM »

Next stage was to add the hull sides and bow/stern pieces, ensuring all is kept as square as possible. making sure that sufficient glue gets in to ALL seam/join edges, as remember, these edges will be in water, so have to be sealed. So what I personally did, before adding a secondary sealing layer of silicine, was that once the side pieces were dry, I float tested the hull in the "second floor test tank" [bath to you and me ]. that way you are sure 100% that the seams are fully glued, before you add a bead of silicone sealer. if you simply add the sealer straight off, then you may be relying on the silicone is its only water barrier and not as secondary. it sounds long winded, but id sooner have 2 levels of water barrier, not 2 water barriers, but one may be leaking, especially as its a new build, not a refurb.
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2011, 10:30:16 PM »

Next stage was to add the main deck and its supporting pieces, being plasticard its all very flexible still at this stage, so be careful when even picking it up, not to crack any of the delicate seams. It will not be untill after the glue has set on the main deck, will the hull !feel" anything near solid enough for any rough handling, trust me !




I also added the forward upper deck wall to the front of my hull, as I am going to install an operating electric winch mechanism, so wanted to add some support to it, more of this later.


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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2011, 05:13:38 PM »

next stage is the superstructure, its basically 2 boxes, glued together, the rear section is more of a rectangle and the front winch room, more of a square shape. If you remembered to save the piece you cut out of the deck, you automatically have a piece that will serve as the roof piece for both sections, remember to cut the 2 items apart as there is a height difference between the 2 structures, to allow for the raising bridge mechanism.
the windows were cut out and some tinted plastic film glued to the inside, the vent hatches were cut out and some aluminium mesh epoxied behind the holes, I then added some black plastic shrouds behind this, to both act as a shade so you cant see straight inside the hull, but they act as a vent guide, to  exhaust warm air out of the hull off the motors.




I will continue on the next stage, about the forward winch room, which differs from the original plans, insomuch as i have fitted  an operable winch, so can control it via the r/c system.
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2011, 03:41:07 PM »

Next stage was to align the motors and korts. the build details suggested the underside of the prop shafts had a "web" support under the props where they exit the hull, towards the korts. I decided this would nto really give sufficiwent support to the prop shafts and had the potential to cause the propellers to move when under load in the kort housings, so I opted to fix 2 angled support bars, set at about 45 deg's instead. these giving the rigidity to the propeller shafts needed to ensure the propellers syat central in the kort housings, even when the korts are swivelled.
The motors were a couple of secondhand epicyclic geared units, purchased off ebay [right price] and when tested, seemed to handle the propellers ok, so were fitted. the gear unitd were checked internally and re greased before fitting and the gearing works out to roughly 6:1 ratio, so plenty of torque for the props to play with.
I manufactured my own motor coling coils from some flexi brake pipe tubing, from a local car spares shop. this being very cheap to buy, easy to bend/shape and cut, its copper coated so rust.corrosion resistant too. Im placed the pickup centrally on the underside of the hull and the exit just abouve waterline on the hull side. I have left plenty of room, so if insufficient water flow, as unable to locate the pickup close to a prop, beings as they are kort units, I can easily fit a small electric water pump if need be.
The motor esc's were affixed on top of the cooling coils, above each motor, so they can get some cooling effect too off the circulating water.







The original instructions suggested fitting twin "380" motors, i thought these to be a little small, especially when I was going to fit twin 6v 10amp/hr batteries anyway, so the ballast "works" its passage and not just sits in the hull as a dead weight, so these motors i fitted I would guessas being the equivalant of a pair of 5- 600 motors in output.
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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2011, 04:41:03 PM »

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Steve. G.
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struppy

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2011, 10:43:39 AM »

Hello,

I am happy to see that there is a plan of the EGRETTE  pusher, because I got bored has the drawn and I think that it misses detail.

To see my plan on document joins.









It's possible to scan your plans and you send him by private e-mail.

Thank you

PS : nice the Build with plasticard.

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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2011, 02:28:57 PM »

unfortunately, I am unable to copy the plans as still commercially available through model boats/ my hobby store shop and I would then be in breech of their copyright laws.

if you either check out the model boats magazine or try their online shop at www.myhobbystore.com

they have a plasticard flat pack kit available, part number : HULMM1417.

this was the pack I ordered.
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Steve. G.
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struppy

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2011, 09:29:41 AM »

Ok thanks
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2011, 02:04:54 PM »

Next stage was to build the wheelhouse and bridge walkway. This needs to be constructed before you attempt the scissor lift mechanism.
The bridge pieces have to be cut out carefully, especially all the window panels. I drilled al the round corners of the windows before scoring through the plastic, so they came out easier, plus it gives you nicely rounded corners at same time, saving you a job with a file later.
Remember to keep this wheelhouse as ligth as possible, but ensure it is a rigid as possible too, so it does not flex or twist when elevated and lowered.
I used 0.75mm plasticard for this section of the build, including the internal seats and centre console.
When cutting the forward bridge  window sections, ADD a little bit of tolerance to your dimensions as the original plans are slightly out here, my originals "fell" through the gaps where they should of met "edge to edge", so cut slightly larger and then trim back to get a better fit.

Dont fit the roof panel yet, install all the glazing by all means, but to allow you access for some "goodies" later, leave the roof off for now.

All will be revealed later.










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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2011, 11:35:24 PM »

Managed to take some decent pics of my pusher tug today. so hope you like!












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Steve. G.
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witherswilliam

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2011, 07:34:17 AM »

Very nice model.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2011, 08:57:36 PM »

Time for the main upper body section. this is basically 2 boxes bonded together, with a few siple windows cut out. the forward "box" in the winch room, with a grille on each side. this is a small piece of alloy car body repair mesh, bonded in with eposy resin and painted satin black. I did however add a black masking panel inside the box, so it stops people being able to look straight through the model., Same applies ot the 2 side mesh panle in the rear section. I did leave these blank plates "open" at the bottom, so when I add a sound module, there is roon to let the sound out too.



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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2011, 08:21:07 PM »

 I have now installed the bow pusher posts. These were intially constructed off the boat hull and internally reinforced with pieces of pasticard to help strengthen the posts to allow for pushing with.  Once fitted to the bows, the bridge walkway section was made and installed, so all these items can dry together squarely.








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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2011, 12:03:39 PM »

Now that the front bow pusher plates are dry, I can start by constructing the forward roller fairleads [ x4] which I am going to make the inner 2 motoprized, so i can make it far easier to hitch up to a barge and in reverse, unhitch again afterwards. These were made from plasticard for the basic surround and hollow plastruct tube for all the rollers. I inserted some thinner brass rod through the rollers, both for strength and also to ensure they still rotate after construction, especially as I need to ensure the inner ones do actually work to allow the ropes to pass freely when the winch motor is in operation.






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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2011, 02:43:23 PM »

After fitting all the forward roller mounts, its time to setup the electric/remote winch motor.  This is a simple MFA geared motor kit, with the gearing suitably checked and the gears changed around to find a suitable ratio to operate the winches at a slow, but well geared ratio, so the motor is not forced to reverse as you apply pressure/tension to the barge rope ties.  I did find that the 2 main gears had to be cross drilled through the motor shafts to prevent slippage, so remember to do this before you get too far and find you cant tension the ropes fully. Now, the forward wall of the winchroom has to be cut and adapted so it is  fixed to the main deck !
this then allows the winch ropes to remain on the deck when you lift off the upper works for access.  I aldo added some brass tubing with the ends of the tubes sanded smooth to prevent the nylon ropes/cords from being damaged as they winch in/out during operation, they also act as rope guides to ensure they wind on the winch drums easier too.

If you cut the front wall of the winch room to its actual size - MINUS  10mm off the top edge, to allow for the upper structure to have a "combing edge" fitted, to "lip over" the top of the winchroom front wall. This then covers over the possible gap you may have due to fixing the fron wall to the deck.

remember too you will have to reinforce the front section of the winchroom to allow for this feature, so prepare yourself for a little trial and error here, but well worth the effort in the long run.

Hopefully you can see why I chose this route to construction, as if id of built all the upper deck first, modifying the winch room may of proven difficult later.





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Steve. G.
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gregk9

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Re: Rhine/rone pusher tug build.
« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2011, 09:33:40 PM »

Next job now is to complete the superstructure. not forgetting about the front wall of the winch room is now fixed to the forward deck of course, so allowances for that will have to be made during construction. I found it easier to glue all the sides together first, adding some triangular braces in the corners to keep square, but remember to keep these braces rather high up the sides to allow for the sides to drop over the deck "water proofing lip". So the braces sit roughly 10mm from the top edges. A bit higher than normal maybe, but still give support nevertheless.
Once the sides were dry its a simple case of bonding on the main roof panel, again adding triangular supports around internally to hold square and also add support to the roof. Same goes for teh winch room roof, remembering to reduce the height of the side panels by the thickness of a second roof panel, as you will be using this to construct the scissor mechanism seperately, then bolting on later, thuis maintaining original height.

What you can now add, is the 2 exhaust stacks, but becareful how you construct them, as the slope in and taper towards their tops, only the inner side panels sit vertically, so measure 3 times and cut once for each part. there is also a ventilation grille in the rear faces, so these will need to be made as a seperate panel and glued on afterwards, remembering to cut the aperture out of the rear panel before you glue all the funnel parts together.













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Steve. G.
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