hi ya there one and all
thank you for the comments - to fill a few gaps in the build for those who dont know - the plan comes from Model Boats October 2008 issue - the only comment I can make about this plan and a couple of others which I have built from magazines - is that when they are drawn I would presume they are near enough correct - but when the printer gets their hands on the plans - it may be they are distorted a bit whilst being re-sized to fit the magazine pages etc. I may be wrong but I am sure that is one of the problems. If you have a look at one of the pics - you will see me pointing to a frame which I had to build up; as it was too low - when I was fairing the rest of the frames in.
Materials: The main frames/shadows/sections whatever you may wish to call them are made up of quarter birch ply from Jotika. This may be expensive ply, but, the plus points are that this is ‘true’ 5 ply – meaning there are 5 veneers in its makeup. Also, there are no voids in between the inner veneers which can be found on ‘cheaper’ ply woods – by voids I refer to gaps between the inner layers.
The keel is made up of ¼ inch birch ply.
The planking material is Obechi 1.5 thick x 8mm wide.
If you look on the Cervia build on this forum; (its in the master build class section) the build sequence of this model build follows the Cervia build – in such a way there is a glassfibre/tissue applied to the exterior of the hull. The main difference between the two builds is that the Cervia build used a gear box which was belt driven by MFA – in the drive line (Olympus) and I was asked after the build what would be a suitable motor to direct drive the Cervia tug and on this build I deliberately located a suitable motor from ACTion Electronics which turns out to be a 12 volt 555 motor. When under load driving the 4 blade 50 mm prop she is only drawing 2 amps.
The other part I deliberately changed on this build was the access to the rudder servo. Again, in the Cervia build, if anything goes wrong with the rudder servo/linkage you have to do major surgery to reach the affected parts. But, as you can see on this build I moved the rudder servo forward to make it more accessible when removing the main super structure. If things go wrong with the main tiller connections on the rudder; there is still a little bit of surgery to be done on the deck but can easily be camouflaged by the grating. Hope this is of some help.
Aye
John e