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[bikerdude666]

As the title says, I've got a Revell kit of a fletcher destroyer, and am going to rc it but I dont know how the mak the de k removable to allow access to the batteries etc. I asked my uncle, but we were at a wedding so I was a bit sloshed lol I think he said something about getting small magnets to use but I don't k is where to get them from or how to fit them or anything? I assume I'd need to make some sort of ledge inside the hull for the deck and magnets to sit on?

Any help and links to appropriate web suppliers would be appreciated thanks!

[Turbinia]

Hi,

Take a look at this site for the magnets:


http://e-magnetsuk.com/

Regards

[bikerdude666]

Thanks will have a look at that.

[Roadrunner]

I'm surprised no one else has suggested the basics of water proofing this open section your about to create.

Magnets are all well and good for securing the section down but you need to keep the water out, by building up a combing around the internal of what ever part you make removable first, this will help not only help water proof the insides from accidental water ingress but also give you a decent place to mount what ever you use to secure the removable part down with.

Take a look at these threads for some idea's or suggestion on how to help with your conundrum.

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=26305.msg259962#msg259962

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=27305.msg268138#msg268138

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7947.msg77376#msg77376

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9758.msg103184#msg103184



 

[bikerdude666]

Thanks that's brilliant, was hoping for some advice about that aswell, not got a clue how to do that kinda stuff.

[RaaArtyGunner]

With plastic kits which don't have cutouts for supper structures, and such superstructures just glue onto the deck it may be an advantage to make the deck removable.

On some models the superstructure actually is keyed to and fits into the cut out and is flush with the deck.

On other models it may be possible to strengthen the deck and make a cut out under the superstructure and fit a coaming to gain access to some of the innards.

Other than fitting a bearing piece to the deck perimeter and screwing the deck down onto the bearer what other methods are available for deck removal as well as minimising water ingress.

Need some lateral thinking.

[RaaArtyGunner]

With plastic kits which don't have cutouts for supper structures, and such superstructures just glue onto the deck it may be an advantage to make the deck removable.

On some models the superstructure actually is keyed to and fits into the cut out and is flush with the deck.

On other models it may be possible to strengthen the deck and make a cut out under the superstructure and fit a coaming to gain access to some of the innards.

Other than fitting a bearing piece to the deck perimeter and screwing the deck down onto the bearer what other methods are available for deck removal as well as minimising water ingress.

Need some lateral thinking.

Maybe should have worded this differently as am seeking info on alternative deck fixings

[RaaArtyGunner]

Comments,where are they

??????????????????????????????

[Roadrunner]

''Pressure lock's'' send me a pm to remind me, (camera is on charge) and tomorrow i will pm you some photos of my locking system, sorry not all secrets i wish to share openly on the forum.

But apart from that, theres not a lot else out there to secure openings to water ingress.

 

[davidm1945]

With plastic kits which don't have cutouts for supper structures,

Supper structure? Is that where the crew have their meals?

Sorry RaaArtyGunner, couldn't resist...

Dave

[Shipmate60]

On my Fletcher the deck is a good tight fit.
I am going to seal it with a smear of grease inside the top of the hull.
I have opened up the rear deckhouse and made the deck removable to access the main switch.
This will save having to remove the whole deck at the lakeside.

Bob

[bikerdude666]

On my Fletcher the deck is a good tight fit.
I am going to seal it with a smear of grease inside the top of the hull.
I have opened up the rear deckhouse and made the deck removable to access the main switch.
This will save having to remove the whole deck at the lakeside.

Bob

Could you email me some pics of how youve done it? I was advised that to be able to install the batteries and turn the model on and off it would be best to make the whole deck removable.

[Shipmate60]

I haven't modified the deck in any way, it is a good tight fit.
I will post some pics of the deckhouse a bit later today.
As these are small models I dont intend to run her in any rough conditions so if a drop of water does enter the hull it won't be a problem.

Bob

[RaaArtyGunner]

Supper structure? Is that where the crew have their meals?

Sorry RaaArtyGunner, couldn't resist...

Dave

Ah well thems the breaks, would you believe it was intentional, no me neither

[ben hall]

you need a rim or inwhales what kit is it can you give some deatails

in whales ar just below the deck to sit it on but if you might get a bit of splash on the deck you need rims there a couple of strips of balsa about a quatre of the heght of the super structure ans so they fight tightly inside the super structure so it should be very watter resistant and wont fall of if boat is on side

[RaaArtyGunner]

The difficulty is with the flush fitting type of decks such as on crash boats, launches, some destroyers, PT boats and the like.

The actual deck sits onto the hull instead of the deck fitting into and or between hull sides and may be curved to fit onto the hull.

The superstructure then fits into an existing cut out in the deck without any coaming.

If the deck can be made removable then the superstructure can be glued and sealed permanently to the deck cut out and made watertight.

Access to the internals is gained by removing the deck.

Has there been any interference to the 'electrics' by the use of magnets.

[Bryan Young]

Read my posts on the re-build of "Norseman". The basics are to cut the hull at the waterline and build internal coamings so the model is effectively 2 models, one on top of the other. BY.

[RaaArtyGunner]

Read my posts on the re-build of "Norseman". The basics are to cut the hull at the waterline and build internal coamings so the model is effectively 2 models, one on top of the other. BY.

Thank you never thought of that, Will do
 

[Shipmate60]

Sorry its a bit late but here are the pics of my Fletcher.
The deck is a good tight fit so I am not planning to use anything to seal it.
But if I decide to sail her in rough water a smear of grease should keep the wet stuff out.

Bob

[bikerdude666]

Thanks for the pics, i see what you mean about the Deckhouse now, though I still need to find a way to loosely fix the rest of the deck down as part of it was bent when I took it out the box, think some of those magnets on little blocks inside the hull.

Thanks