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Author Topic: Clear Epoxy resin for windows  (Read 2388 times)

Tug-Kenny

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Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« on: April 08, 2011, 08:14:36 PM »

I have read that clear epoxy resin  (or substitute)  can be used to fill portholes and give a good waterproof joint.

My question is  " can it be poured  ( spooned!)  into the open porthole vertically and not drip through whilst drying"  The diameters of the portholes are 3mm up to 5mm and I have over one hundred to drill out on my Titanic.

The reason for the question is that I cannot access the inside of the hull to block it up in any way. I was hoping the small holes would trap a blob long enough for it to 'harden up'

What do you think please.  Product information would also be welcome.  I haven't drilled the holes yet as I'm worried I might not be able to block them up.  Don't want it sinking, do I.  %)


Hope you can help

Ken



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Colin Bishop

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2011, 09:04:03 PM »

Ken,

Epoxy is likely to drip through and cause problems. Humbrol Clearfix is a possible alternative. However, drilling all those portholes accurately will be very difficult. In your position I would punch them from blue trimline tape using a multiple leather punch and simply stick them on the hull using masking tape along the hull to position them evenly. The end result will be much neater and look much more realistic. It's a helluva lot easier too!

Colin
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nemesis

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2011, 09:08:44 PM »

Hello, If you pour from the back of the port on to shiny surface you may get success, if you pour from the front you will get a miniscus and it don"t look right. What I did at work was to hold a little bladed knife with a little epoxy on it, warmed up in a bunsen flame and it runs like water, it also sets quicker. There is another way & it to use perspex rod. Nemesis
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2011, 09:15:45 PM »

Quote
Hello, If you pour from the back of the port on to shiny surface you may get success,

Ken says he hasn't got access from the back.
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2011, 09:35:14 PM »


Thank you for the input Colin. The hole drilling is no problem as I can  'Jig'  it up for accuracy.

I thought that, as the holes are quite small there might be a thick type of stuff that would Gel quickly if used in small quantities.  Once the hole is sealed then further drops could be added to flatten off the effect.

Nemises I like your idea of Perspex. Why didn't I think of that.  I could punch out little circles of clear perspex and force fit them into the holes.  Sealing them would be the next problem as runny super glue might 'fog' them up. Perhaps I could then use the clear epoxy  on top and it won't run through into the boat.

The port holes do not have any Rims and are just circles in the hull. The glass, however will have to be recessed so hopefully there will be enough depth.

Thanks

Ken



 
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2011, 10:29:10 PM »

As Nemesis suggests, external application of almost any transparent runny stuff will result in a meniscus effect.

Perspex rod may be a solution Ken, you could use odourless superglue which should not produce fogging although  you will probably need to use a kicker to set it. Certainly worth a test anyway!

I'd still stiick the circles on using Trimilne myself though!

Colin
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2011, 05:18:57 PM »


Hi Colin,

Just drilled over 300 holes @ 2.5mm and then @ 3.5mm for a good edge with no ripping. These holes go right through the hull so that they can be illuminated from within.

Unfortunately I hit the odd frame side and couldn't go through so it will look like some of the cabins have their lights out.   %)

Thanks for the Glue info, I will try various substances later. I have to spray the boat first to allow the clean windows to be inserted afterwards.

Cheers

ken

 
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2011, 05:23:15 PM »

Ken, you are a glutton for punishment! I once did something similar on a model liner I was building (it never got finished) and was still cross eyed two days later!

All the best with the model, let us have some pictures when you can.

Colin
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John W E

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2011, 05:31:51 PM »

hi there Ken

Have you drilled all the way through your hull for the port holes?   If so, you can put either masking tape or sellotape on the outside to cover them; backfill from the inside with the clear epoxy.  I find this ensures a smooth level face on the outside.  Obviously, you will only be able to epoxy certain sections of the hull at a time.    If you are a real glutton for punishments - as when I built the Ajax hull - you could cut approx 240 pieces of 4mm diameter brass tubing into 1/8 lengths; placed them all on a piece of level plywood which had double sided tape on; then I filled each individual one with the epoxy,.  When they had dried, I smoothed the face of each port light off with wet'n'dry and then inserted these into the hull - a long and laborious job and only for the strong willed/dafties like me :-)

Then of course, you have to put the eyelets above the portholes, but, then I don't think the Titanic had eye-brows above the portholes  :-)) :-))

Best of luck my mate.

Aye
john
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: Clear Epoxy resin for windows
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2011, 05:45:23 PM »


Yes, it's quite a lot of work but very enjoyable. I do tend to spend a lot of time in the workshop as She likes it that way.

I might post a blog when it's finished. I decided not to at the moment, on the grounds that it takes a lot of research as there are No actual drawings from the makers. I'm guestimating the dimensions and locations and sizes from all the sources I can and am going for the average look on the water. I don't think it will bear close scrutiny for too long.   :}

Just caught your letter before I posted, John.

I cannot access the inside wall of the hull because of the mass of frames and the first deck  (the promenade deck )  is glued into place, so I'm forced to work only from the outside.

I shall go along with Nemisis's idea of inserting plastic circles which I can punch out on my fly press and then seal them with Colin's idea.  (where would I be without the wonderful, knowledgeable  Mayhemers  :-))   You are correct about there being No circles around the windows in the plating.  Now They WAS fun constructing, but I digress.

I let you all know how the port holes turn out.



Ken

 
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