Topic: Off shore Power boats - New here, here's my project........ (Read 12019 times)

Phantom1 · « **on:** February 27, 2007, 09:01:52 pm »

Hello everyone, i have joined to seek advise on what sort of power and setup i will need for my 45" powerboat, I built the plug/mould & boat myself and now ready to rig it.........any help much apreciated..

omra85 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 27, 2007, 09:34:31 pm »

Phantom
Don't do anything with it - SELL IT TO ME!!!!!
Seriously, its got to be surface drive, and a geared racing 21 or a straight drive 45 in it.
Don't take any notice of that Martno1fan - he'll have you putting a sparky in it

From the look of it, you take great pride in your work so the burning question is -
will you race it ???
Danny

Phantom1 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 27, 2007, 09:41:12 pm »

Quote from: omra85 on February 27, 2007, 09:34:31 pm

Phantom
Don't do anything with it - SELL IT TO ME!!!!!
Seriously, its got to be surface drive, and a geared racing 21 or a straight drive 45 in it.
Don't take any notice of that Martno1fan - he'll have you putting a sparky in it
From the look of it, you take great pride in your work so the burning question is -
will you race it ???
Danny

Hi ya Danny..

You cant have it, its mine!! (but if you were to twist my arm i could make you a shell in any colour you like!!!!)

surface drive sounds interesting.......

will i race it? mmmm, i'd like to give it a go, i am involved in Offshore powerboat racing but they are slightly larger powerboats.

cheers
Allan

omra85 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 27, 2007, 10:41:46 pm »

Right Allan, lets get cracking.
Engines -
There's really only 2 types, CMB and the rest (I have a Novarossi 21 which is as quick as a CMB, but needs careful looking after).
CMB's are expensive and there are others (mainly Chinese) which are cheaper but still "pokey". The 45's can be used without gearbox so are easier to set up (and cheaper - the engine is more expensive but you save the cost of the gearbox).
Drive -
Submerged is cheaper but you get more lift at the back. This means the boat goes quick and corners well but is unstable (there are a FEW exceptions). Surface drive "looks" better and the boat can be set up to run dead flat but cornering suffers as they don't turn so tight. Surface is also SLIGHTLY easier to set up, but still needs extreme care when setting the shaft tube.
Exhaust -
No point in buying a good engine unless you use a tuned pipe. This can be "stuck out the back" like mine, or under deck if you've room. You will need a "quiet" pipe to keep under 80dB which is a strict rule.
Tank -
If you're going in for racing, there are 2 types, OMRA - where we race for up to 30 minutes per heat, which needs a big tank, or circuit (which is not as popular) and they only race for 8 laps so only need a small tank.
Radio -
Use at least 3 channels, one for rudder (using at least an 8kg servo), one for throttle (which must have a failsafe fitted) and one for mixture (as the tank lightens, the boat goes faster and runs leaner so needs adjusting - also easier to initially set up with).
There are a million and one other things but that will do for now.
It's decision time

Have a look at the OMRA website, go to Suppliers/Links. Dave Marles, Ian Folkson and Jon Wright are the main suppliers for our "toys".
Bet you thought you were going to get a bit of 'light relief' from the big boats - Ha

Danny
PS Where's the canal?

Phantom1 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 27, 2007, 11:33:16 pm »

wow, a lot to think about then!!

The boat as an empty shell weighs only 3.2kg's , is this too light ?

i dropped it on the canal today(Langley,B'ham) to see what aptitude she was at, it was a bit windy and when the wind copped her broadside she nearly went over! as she sits at the moment the outer chines are 3/4 inch out of the water, i am presuming that the same rule applies to models as full scale stuff, ie, chine at waterline at rest?

Better start collecting some bits then i reckon!

cheers
allan

Andy M · « **Reply #5 on:** February 28, 2007, 12:23:29 pm »

Very nice! Dont usually like orange,but it looks awesome.Nice shape. I noticed you have come to model boats from full size, I have done it the other way round! I was going to build my own version of a Lesro Javelin but ended up building my Viper 2 seat mini boat, probably costing less than your model is going to cost,from what I have read so far! If I ever win the lottery,I am going to buy a CMB engine just to look at! I wanted a CMB 90 when I started doing model boats - 6HP! I ended up getting a Merco 61! Your boat looks good,keep us up to date as it progresses, most of all have fun,Andy M.

omra85 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 28, 2007, 02:29:43 pm »

Hi Allan
A boat can NEVER be too light - unless it falls apart

As an example "Seaducer" 41" hulls are about 2 kilos.
http://www.seaducerboats.com/boatsgas.htm
You can always put weight IN, but it takes a good belt sander to get it off again

I'll try to get a photo of the insides of mine to give a rough idea of layout, different mounting practices (not THOSE ones)

Danny

Phantom1 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 28, 2007, 06:27:08 pm »

cheers Andy, nice little boat there mate!

I build a 10ft mono single seater..........(photo below)

and our race boat last year 19ft with 200 horsepower bolted on the back!.....

Phantom1 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 28, 2007, 07:28:35 pm »

Quote from: omra85 on February 28, 2007, 02:29:43 pm

Hi Allan
A boat can NEVER be too light - unless it falls apart
As an example "Seaducer" 41" hulls are about 2 kilos.
http://www.seaducerboats.com/boatsgas.htm
You can always put weight IN, but it takes a good belt sander to get it off again
I'll try to get a photo of the insides of mine to give a rough idea of layout, different mounting practices (not THOSE ones)
Danny

Danny,

i thought it just might be too light! perhaps not then!
yeah a photo of the layout of yours would be cool............

heres a few others.......

omra85 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 01, 2007, 10:39:46 pm »

Hi Allan
Finally made it to the garage - it's still too cold for me :)
Here's the layout for the 48"

I don't use the American system of two strips of ply up the middle (don't know what they call them) ???
They are cut out and the sides stiffened with a couple of pieces of grp sheet glassed in. This gives room for a big tank on the CB and a transverse radio box to keep the weight well back.

The 43" is very similar as I tried to keep to the same layout - if it ain't broke, don't fix it

I'd better stop there or MARTIN will "moderate" me - Ha, I've never been 'moderate' in my life - and I get worse as I get older

Danny

offshore1987 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 01, 2007, 11:37:55 pm »

hi allan m8 nice cover on that motor lol :) are boat was parked next to yours C57 :)

just outa intrest how much would you be lookin at for say a hull? in orange ofcourse lol

cheers dan

Phantom1 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 02, 2007, 08:03:38 pm »

Quote from: offshore1987 on March 01, 2007, 11:37:55 pm

hi allan m8 nice cover on that motor lol :) are boat was parked next to yours C57 :)

just outa intrest how much would you be lookin at for say a hull? in orange ofcourse lol

cheers dan

Ah your Bob's son! hi matey.

a hull in orange will be £70. i would need about 3-5 days notice if you wanted one

Phantom1 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 03, 2007, 10:27:37 am »

Danny,

cool pictures mate, thanks.
A few questions..........

Is the engine water cooled?
Is the tuned pipe water cooled?
Does the hatch have to have air intake on ?
the rudder is offset, what is the reason for this apart from the surface drive is in the way?
whats the fin on the starboard side transom?

and how fast do these boats go?

cheers Dan

omra85 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 03, 2007, 08:02:46 pm »

Hi Dan
In answer to your questions -

Is the engine water cooled?
Yes. it's fed by the rudder intake into the jacket up into the head then out.

Is the tuned pipe water cooled?
Yes. The pipe beside the prop feeds the manifold pic 3 - just under the starting belt) then into the pipe sleeve, then out.

Does the hatch have to have air intake on ?
Yes, it's painted the same black as the 'windscreen'. Its made from Aly mesh (Holts Fibreglass products from Halfords) which is resin pasted in. The 3 1/2 also has a deflector moulded in as the carb points upwards, so it stops water diving straight into the carb throat :(

the rudder is offset, what is the reason for this apart from the surface drive is in the way?
That's the way it was drawn on the plans

Apparently it gives tighter turns and leaves less metal habging out the back to get smashed

whats the fin on the starboard side transom?
That's a turn fin - without it, the boat does lovely 'power slides' round right handers but that's useless in a race as it's too unpredictable. It keeps the cornering tight but MUST be mounted dead straight fore and aft otherwise it creates drag!

and how fast do these boats go?
mine was clocked at 28 knots in open sea (mild swell) in the Brixham - Torquay race last year. Some would say they are FAR faster

(Feels more when you're chasing it in a rib)

Andy M · « **Reply #14 on:** March 04, 2007, 05:19:16 pm »

Quote from: Phantom1 on February 28, 2007, 06:27:08 pm

cheers Andy, nice little boat there mate!

I build a 10ft mono single seater..........(photo below)

and our race boat last year 19ft with 200 horsepower bolted on the back!.....

I think mine would fit inside your one!

martno1fan · « **Reply #15 on:** March 04, 2007, 06:19:21 pm »

phantom forget all of what hes told you mate and get a zenoah petrol engine the fuels cheaper the engines are easier to start and they are more reliable!!.speed is just as fast too ,you can get a zen from the usa for 130 quid delivered and they are beasts and sound great too.nitros about 16 to 20 quid a gallon by the way.that boat is crying out for a zen!!!

omra85 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 04, 2007, 08:09:10 pm »

What did I tell you (see second post, this thread) I think he's been drinking that fuel instead of putting it in a boat

Course, if you WANT to sound like your trying to launch a demented lawn mower and get used to your hands stinking for DAYS, then a sparky is just what you need

Actually, they're not bad value and pretty reliable at the moment (but don't tell Mart I said so - I'll never live it down)

Danny

martno1fan · « **Reply #17 on:** March 04, 2007, 09:41:27 pm »

Heres a demented lawn mower engine in full flight !!!,still want to go nitro?

http://http://media.putfile.com/dave-marles-panther-with-zen-7
no its not mine but i just had to show it to you hehe i wants one !!

Phantom1 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 05, 2007, 06:37:15 pm »

mmmm decisions decisions!!! ???

i think the first boat will have to be nitro, just to test the water so to speak! i have a bit of experience using nitro in cars so maybe a good starting point.

cheers for your help chaps, i'll be needing a lot more soon!!!

martno1fan · « **Reply #19 on:** March 05, 2007, 07:31:18 pm »

its your choice mate but in my opinion petrol is easier to run and less hassle to start ,i have a .61 nitro boat and i hate starting em that size they have no pull start and you need to lug all the starting gear around lol.petrol engines have a nice easy to pull recoil starter.

Phantom1 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 05, 2007, 07:34:20 pm »

Quote from: martno1fan on March 05, 2007, 07:31:18 pm

its your choice mate but in my opinion petrol is easier to run and less hassle to start ,i have a .61 nitro boat and i hate starting em that size they have no pull start and you need to lug all the starting gear around lol.petrol engines have a nice easy to pull recoil starter.

is there a weight dissadvantage with the sparky pull start?

omra85 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 05, 2007, 07:51:20 pm »

No disadvantage with a sparky pull start, the disadvantage is with the weight of the rest of the engine

Course, they're easier to start - til you flood them!

If anyone is looking for a cheap starter, get down to your local motorbike breakers and get a starter motor the same size as a Dynatron (mine was a Honda 250 (I think), stick a handle on it and an industrial strength momentary switch, some thick speaker wire (very supply and carries high ampeage), croc clips and off you go. All up price about £30. The price may be a bit out cos I've had mine since 1985 (no - it CAN'T be that long) :'(
It's started everything from a .12 to a .90 off a 12V battery.
If anyone wants more info, let me know.
Danny

martno1fan · « **Reply #22 on:** March 05, 2007, 09:38:27 pm »

phantom the sparkys is obviously heavier but it also puts our between 4 and 7 hp depending on wether you get a stock one or the zen 7 from dave marles.the zens will push that boat over 50 mph stock a modded zen and your looking at 60 or more

which is not a good idea for amono hull!! a cat will be ok over 70mph. with a zen and thats a real sight to see.the fastest zen got a boat to over 100 mph admittedly it was a rigger but its still a boat.in my opinion a boat over 40" needs to be a sparky it just makes more sense and you can run a lot longer on one tank of fuel than you will with any nitro engine. ::)ask me how i know lol.

Phantom1 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 05, 2007, 10:18:36 pm »

how much do these Zens cost to buy?

martno1fan · « **Reply #24 on:** March 05, 2007, 10:34:38 pm »

if you want one id buy from the states way cheaper like half as cheap!! hers a cpl of links for yaa
first ones a good company fast delivery 20 quid postage from hongkong second equally good from states.

]]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zenoah-G260PUM-Marine-Ignition-Gasoline-Engine-Pertol_W0QQitemZ150033261908QQihZ005QQcategoryZ116075QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

http://http://www.oneillbrothers.com/rcboat/index.htm

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Author Topic: Off shore Power boats - New here, here's my project........ (Read 12019 times)

Phantom1

omra85

Phantom1

omra85

Phantom1

omra85

Phantom1

Phantom1

omra85

offshore1987

Phantom1

Phantom1

omra85

omra85

Phantom1

Phantom1

omra85

Phantom1