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[CERES]

 :-)Hi,
There is a lot of info about the conversion of the above.

Having had this kit for over 12 months it is about time it was given some attention so assembly starts this weekend.
I already have a lot of info but one item that I need to address is the water proofing of the hull especially all the port holes. I seem to have read somewhere that there is a clear liquid that can be squeezed into the ports thereby making them waterproof.  Could anyone let me know if this is Right and if so the name.
Many thanks,
Ceres.

[mikearace]

Try Clearfix or Evosticky PVA wood glue.

[Roadrunner]

I've done two of these models in the past (sold on now) when i sealed the hull i used a lot of Epoxy resin, ''Aradilt'' mainly but any good quality epoxy resin will do (5 min, 30 mins and 24 hour stuff), on the joint seams (hulls split down the side as its in 4 parts) down the keel, the port holes were done the same way but using sticky tape to the outside and back filling to ensure it was water tight.

The main problem you will have with converting these will be the decks opening to get access to the internals if i had photo's i would share, but you will want to device a double combing of some description so the deck section fits in like a plug its the only way to reduce the water intake given the deck and hull, it was never designed to do what some do to her!

[dodgy geezer]

Mine used some simple Poundshop clear epoxy. It's surprising how well it goes into those portholes - you would think it would bulge out, but surface tension keeps it nice and flat at the front, and, of course, it's a watertight seal....

[deadbeat]

As mentioned use clear epoxy and apply using a cocktail stick to 'wipe' round the circumference of the porthole until it makes a complete seal.

[chas]

Don't forget the holes at the bows where the anchors emerge. I used bath sealer here and its worked very well.
  As for access and installation, I glued the main deck in place and access is via the rear superstructure which is easy to make removable and reasonably watertight. This gives me more than adequate space for the radio, motor and battery. Because this puts much of the weight at the back I worked out the overall displacement first by putting the hull in the bath, then put a suitable lump of lead into the bows, fixed with epoxy.
  This has worked for me and having the ballast at each end keeps her a little more stable in choppy water.
 Charlie

[Roadrunner]

For the Anchor chairs i used hollow brass rod epoxied in as the bow section was fixed down and my 'plug section' was dead centre under the funnel, before the rear 'drop'
It was running a 30mm 3 blade brass prop a MFA 6:1 geared motor of a ''micro'' 12v LA battery (1.2AH) gives you about 45 mins run time, 15a mtronics esc with a 2.4 system.

although i think the 6:1 motor is a bit over kill its does shift around the lake which is ideal given ours with its tilde conditions, i do however think that a standard 400 or 400bb motor with 7.2v nhim or 6v LA would be an ideal set-up for calm waters.

[DickyD]

1:72 Revell Flower Class Corvette.

Deans Marine Kyte motor
6" prop shaft with oil filler
3 bladed 35mm brass prop
Marine 5 speed controller
7.2v nicad battery pack.
Universal prop shaft coupling
Existing kit rudder bonded to smaller rudder with resin
Futaba 2 channel radio.

Runs 3-4 hours at slightly over scale speed.



Link to build:   http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1272.0

                     http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1878.0

[RaaArtyGunner]

Dicky,

 

[gregk9]

Becareful of some of the "poundshop 2 part epoxy" stuff. ive had problems where water actually causes the stuff to decompose and seperate from its host pieces!
So I now dont use this stuff where there is any likelyhood of it phisically coming in to contact with water. Its ok for upperdeck stuff, dont get me wrong.

It might of been part of a faulty batch i purchased, but would not like anyone else to suffer the same fate.