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Author Topic: kyosho bladerunner  (Read 1815 times)

triumphjon

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kyosho bladerunner
« on: July 14, 2011, 08:08:33 AM »

ive recently purchased a bladerunner as an empty hull / deck moulding , having looked i understand the full size was fitted with twin outboard motors , has  anybody any ideas what i should do to get the model onto the water please ?
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w3bby

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Re: kyosho bladerunner
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2011, 02:36:56 PM »

I doubt that you would be able to fit 2 electric outboards on the transom of the model although they are available. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=OutBoards+%26+OutDrives

There is also a full size version available using outdrives http://www.icemarine.com/spec/51_spec.htm so maybe an alternative is to set it up similar to the original Kyosho set up
http://th.diplotop.com/414.php?k=a147af3b766f072010914bbe738a4ca1&ID=3536174&q=KYOSHO%20BLADERUNNER%20101R (fill in the numbers from the box on the left to that on the right and click the button underneath) although using a more conventional surface drive and rudder instead of the strudder set up.

Here's one build http://www.murrellsmodels.co.uk/Boats/Blade.htm

triumphjon

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Re: kyosho bladerunner
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2011, 10:35:46 PM »

thanks for the links , , as the transom looks to narrow to fit a pair of outboards , maybe a pair of stern drive legs would be easier to fit ? ive been thinking of twin shafts coupled to a single brushless motor that will allow for the contra rotation of the shafts
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pompebled

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Re: kyosho bladerunner
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2011, 04:53:54 PM »

Hi TJ,

While the 1:1 Bladerunner was a fast boat, getting the model running well is a bit of a struggle.

Call yourself lucky the stock drivetrain didn't come with the boat, it wasn't very good, the steering outdrive is a disaster (on any boat for that matter).
When you search the internet for builds (and rebuilds) of this boat you'll find that it's a bit on the small and heavy side to perform well.
Usually a 700 motor on 12-14 cells NiMH was the preferred way to run this boat reasonably quick.

With the lighter Lipo and brushless motors, I wouldn't muck about with twin drives (unless it you want it to be a floating and moving scale model), but keep it as light as possible.
Sharpen the trailing edges and strengthen the running surfaces where required, to stop the flexing.
Use a stinger with a seperate offset rudder.

To me this is the only way to get this stunning model running (really) fast.

Regards, Jan.
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triumphjon

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Re: kyosho bladerunner
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2011, 08:33:58 PM »

pompebled , how far from the transom should i aim for the prop to sit ? and at what sort of angle ?  i should be able to strengthen the internal face of the hull with some glass fibre tissue and polyester resin , im aiming for as light a hull as possible then its just a sensible brushless motor . jon
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pompebled

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Re: kyosho bladerunner
« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2011, 01:40:41 PM »

Hi Jon,

Rule of thumb is 10% of the hull length between the transom and the propnut.
I've gone as far as 13% with no problems with the running attitude.

Make sure the rudderblade sits next to the prop to counteract propwalk (if there's room on the transom for an offset rudder, otherwise have it behind the prop)

The bond between ABS and polyester isn't very good.
When I reinforce an ABS hull, I out the glasscloth in position and tap it into the ABS with a brush and Aceton, partly solving the ABS, working the cloth into it.

Needless to say you use as little Aceton a possible to avoid damage to the hull.

Once the Aceton has evaporated (completely!), I use epoxy and glasscloth the further reinforce the hull.
This works much better than just polyester, it's also more labour intensive...

Regards, Jan..

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