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[GAS]

I kind of assumed that a 2 part epoxy was the best thing to use when it comes to bonding for example bulkheads etc but am I wrong in thinking this?

I know you can get a variety of speed applications of epoxy but would a decent superglue or wood glue suffice?

Also, being a bit of a perfectionist I like a nice clean bead when it comes to bonding and so I'm thinking to add strength and help waterproof the hull I'm building from scratch I might use a sealant gun to seal all joints again with I know not what and any advice would be appreciated!!!

Thanks in advance.

[DickyD]

ADHESIVES

 

Adhesives may be in tube form (polystyrene cement) or in liquid form such as Humbrol Liquid Poly or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) which is best applied with a brush. The technique is to apply a few drops of the solvent and the glue will run down the joint by capillary attraction. The following glues are recommended:

Fibreglass to plastic: two-part epoxy (Devcon, Araldite, Speed Epoxy) - 10 min. or 1 hour.
Plastic to plastic: ordinary plastic solvent (Revel, Liquid Poly, Slaters, MEK).
Whitemetal to whitemetal: two-part epoxy (5min.) or thick superglue (Pro-Bond, MFA etc.)
Whitemetal to plastic: two-part epoxy or thick superglue.
Wood to plastic: two-part epoxy, thick superglue or contact adhesive.
Brass to plastic: R/C Modellers craft glue or thick superglue.
Rubber Fendering: contact adhesive (UHU, Bostik).
Window glazing: Weldbond, RC Modeller's Craft Glue or clear contact adhesive (UHU, Bostik etc.)


http://www.modelslipway.com/hintsnTips/hints.shtml

[Colin Bishop]

Also check out the chart on the Deluxe Materials website on what sticks what to what!  http://www.deluxematerials.com/download/Quick%20Ref%20Glue%20Guide.pdf

Colin

[craftysod]

The main question,is what material are you using.
If using wood,a decent outdoor glue will suffice,once painted,should provide adequate seal,no need for sealant gun.
Adds extra weight to the top,which is not good for any model
Mark

[unbuiltnautilus]

There are many glues for many jobs, mayhemers all have their preferred adhesives, mostly qouted from the usual sources. However for fibreglass work can I suggest the following gem  introduced to me by a fellow club member while bonding down the deck of a B Class OMRA offshore boat. Plastic Padding Glass Fibre Paste, this is fine chopped glass fibres in a loverly blue green goop. It uses a standard yellow hardener supplied with it. It is finer and less 'stabby' than P40 when you stick your hands in the model but would benefit from going over once dry with a burr in a hobby drill just to take down the sharp bits. I was using some yesterday to glue 2" x 2" blocks of timber into the base of a full size Dalek! It also holds the legs on R2D2, the head on K9, straightens out slightly wobbly submarine hatches, bonds in propshafts and rudders, holds working cannons in the side of my sailing ship, drills, taps, sands and I dont think I could cope without it any more....
Must get a life

[GAS]

There are many glues for many jobs, mayhemers all have their preferred adhesives, mostly qouted from the usual sources. However for fibreglass work can I suggest the following gem  introduced to me by a fellow club member while bonding down the deck of a B Class OMRA offshore boat. Plastic Padding Glass Fibre Paste, this is fine chopped glass fibres in a loverly blue green goop. It uses a standard yellow hardener supplied with it. It is finer and less 'stabby' than P40 when you stick your hands in the model but would benefit from going over once dry with a burr in a hobby drill just to take down the sharp bits. I was using some yesterday to glue 2" x 2" blocks of timber into the base of a full size Dalek! It also holds the legs on R2D2, the head on K9, straightens out slightly wobbly submarine hatches, bonds in propshafts and rudders, holds working cannons in the side of my sailing ship, drills, taps, sands and I dont think I could cope without it any more....
Must get a life

Thanks but i'm using a mix of basswood and ply!!!

[dreadnought72]

PVA then. The waterproof one.

Odourless, cheapish, gives you some fumbling time. It's best clamped and left to set overnight.

It's all I use on non-plastics.

Andy

[Colin Bishop]

Thanks but i'm using a mix of basswood and ply!!!

I would prefer aliphatic (yellow glue) for that. All the virtues of standard PVA but dries quicker and is stronger. If you really want to push the boat out(!) then Deluxe Materials Superphatic is virtually a waterbased equivalent of superglue and really gets into the joint as iis very thin and so gives an extremely neat job. Damp cloth cleanup as well.

Colin