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Author Topic: Aquarama Build  (Read 121510 times)

ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #75 on: September 30, 2011, 04:52:20 PM »

Finally the bottom and the sides are complete, ( first layer anyway ).

Looks like hours of sanding to get a perfectly smooth and even finish ready for the final Mahogany skin.

Will plank the foredeck tomorrow which will be a doddle compared to the hull, I hope !!

A few photos, by the way, re my question regarding any rudder toe in / toe out, any advice ?

Mike.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #76 on: September 30, 2011, 04:53:04 PM »

And a couple more.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #77 on: October 01, 2011, 06:50:42 PM »

Hello everyone.

Did get the foredeck planked today along with sealing the internals, even those you can't see.

The work done on the Fwd. cabin has not been hidden, you have to shine a torch in there to see it. Hey Ho, at least I know it's there.

Rapidly approaching the heavy duty sanding stage, maybe make a start tomorrow.

Weighing in at 1.5 Kg. as seen.

Mike.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #78 on: October 02, 2011, 11:28:01 AM »

Hi,

Today is a sanding day, all day I think, using the old pencil technique, sand until the pencil marks are gone, then it's done.

Mike.
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rmaddock

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #79 on: October 02, 2011, 11:40:46 AM »

A harder, fainter pencil would make the sanding easier.  {-)
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #80 on: October 02, 2011, 12:47:24 PM »

Hello All.

A couple of pictures proving the point.

As Duncan Norvel said, "Plank Me", or was it "Chase Me". Probably not "Plank Me".  :o

The pencil technique works well, also, a spray with water with washing up liquid makes the pin holes dissapear.

Sorry for the reference to Mr. Norvel, he was a British comedian, for our continental viewers
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #81 on: October 02, 2011, 09:29:33 PM »

its coming on great now. im not sure about vandalising the boat to make sure youve sanded it well though lol.  :-))
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #82 on: October 03, 2011, 06:37:53 AM »

its coming on great now. im not sure about vandalising the boat to make sure youve sanded it well though lol.  :-))

When doing 1:1 scale car bodywork I have used a similar technique... spray a contrasting colour (usually black over standard grey primer) and then sand back to highlight low spots in the bodywork
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #83 on: October 03, 2011, 09:27:12 AM »

im just rough.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #84 on: October 03, 2011, 11:30:13 AM »

im just rough.
Don't believe a word of it.   :-))
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #85 on: October 03, 2011, 11:38:37 AM »

lol dude im rough:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32783.msg325820;boardseen#new

Im not one for presentation. i like function.
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lleksam

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #86 on: October 03, 2011, 11:29:12 PM »

Hi
I'm new to forum and have just found your build thread, looking fantastic. I'm just starting a Aquarama from a set of plans i found and a few mahogany stair treads I have, 6`long 12" wide and 3" thick, my table saw and  planer-thicknesser are going to get some hard work soon. I did post in beginners about motors but you answered my questions here. http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32915.0

I have a few questions to ask, if i may, You have put the first coat of planking on hull, what is the size of that planking and what wood is it if you have any idea, and what is size of mahogany planking, please.

I plan to use http://www.overlander.co.uk/tornado-thumper-v2-3536-1000kv.html these motors now,  with a machined stainless mount TIG welded to the end of the prop shaft.

Please if any one has any hints, ideas, help, or just want to tell me I'm a idiot, please reply on my other topic as not to hijack this one

Thank you in advance

Steve
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tjfromdevon

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #87 on: October 04, 2011, 12:20:28 AM »

Nice build log - I found it extremely interesting - I have used the same ESC's in my Italeri conversion and managed to program them. I can provide some instructions if you still want to use them.
Regards
TJ
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #88 on: October 04, 2011, 06:46:02 AM »

Nice build log - I found it extremely interesting - I have used the same ESC's in my Italeri conversion and managed to program them. I can provide some instructions if you still want to use them.
Regards
TJ
TJ.
P.M. sent.
Mike.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #89 on: October 05, 2011, 11:09:16 AM »

Hello all.
Have finished sanding the 1st layer of planking to my satisfaction. Some of the planks were quite low and I didn't want to bring the down the others to their level because it would have resulted in the higher ones finishing up wafer thin.
So, had to bite the bullet and use a little fine surface filler here and there, shows in the photos.
Am very pleased with how the bow flair turned out. Now all the planks are level and very smooth.

Have done enough to the top decking for now, will concentrate on the final Mahogany hull bottom and sides, unlike the Limewood bottom layer, I am looking very forward to doing the hardwood finish layer.
I think it will take quite a little while to do tho' as I am aiming for no gaps or filler to be required.

Have not totally dismissed the use of fans for cooling yet. Have a friend dropping me off a couple of laptop cooling fans today, will fiddle about a bit to see if it is feasible.

Meanwhile here are a few pictures.

Mike.
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #90 on: October 05, 2011, 12:56:49 PM »

whats the point in using cooling fans though?

1 they are additional weight
2 they are additional power drain
3 they require vents in the deck to allow movement of cool air
4 contributes radio interference
5 not water proof

water cooling is the better option by far. Its light, requires no power, needs no maintenance can be sealed into a completely water tight hull no venting.

what ever you decide though im sure you got your reasoning. this is just my oppionion  :-))
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #91 on: October 05, 2011, 01:26:22 PM »

whats the point in using cooling fans though?

1 they are additional weight
2 they are additional power drain
3 they require vents in the deck to allow movement of cool air
4 contributes radio interference
5 not water proof

water cooling is the better option by far. Its light, requires no power, needs no maintenance can be sealed into a completely water tight hull no venting.

what ever you decide though I'm sure you got your reasoning. this is just my oppionion  :-))
Sorry Mike don't accept any of you your arguments.
1. Weight  they weigh a few grams.
2. Power  they draw less than a servo at idle.
3. Vents can be conceived to not allow water in, they don't have to be at deck level.
4. Absolutely no interference to decent 2.4 receivers, also they are brushless.
5. Why would they need to be waterproof ?
And here's a 6. They will be used in conjunction with water cooling not instead of. Although I see no reason why that can't happen

I don't just dismiss the idea out of hand because it is not the "Norm"

Mike.
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John W E

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #92 on: October 05, 2011, 02:39:46 PM »

Hi,
 the use of cooling fans in a model which has the electrics in a confined space, is a good thing as it stops a build-up of hotair in one place.  

 

It moves the air around and in practice the fan should be placed so that it sucks the air out of the compartment and the vacuum that is created pulls fresh cold air in. Using this method along with water cooling will be adequate for most fast electricmodels.

 

I used a similar set up in the1/48 scale HMS Leeds Castle which was originally built for a 24 hour race.  It has two fans cooling all the electrics - one is set on a thermal switch for the motor which are also watercooled.
PS nice build  :-)) :-))

 

aye

john

 
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F1 madness

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #93 on: October 05, 2011, 04:06:55 PM »

very nice. the rudders looks a bit small though against the props but what do i know. its going to be interesting to see how this boat goes. I have found in my experience that open cockpit fast boats are prone to taking on water. Not from the bottom though from over the sides. youl see what i mean when you take her out for the maiden voyage

Hi bud,a few down my boat club had problems with taking on water over the sides,i told them how to cure this and have no problems now,
A simple spray rail,placed along where deadrise of the V meets sides it only has to be 3mm lip of wood and problem sovled.
 Great build by the way,but watch them ESC 's they are not reliable,iv got the proper programming for them from the manufacturer in china who supply these to HK.
you may be lucky by using 2 motors and ESC so they load but still wouldnt bet on them lasting.
Good luck and nice job
F1
 
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dreadnought72

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #94 on: October 05, 2011, 04:12:55 PM »

A really good build, this. Many thanks for documenting it. The woodwork is superb!

Andy
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #95 on: October 05, 2011, 04:56:42 PM »

Hi bud,a few down my boat club had problems with taking on water over the sides,i told them how to cure this and have no problems now,
A simple spray rail,placed along where deadrise of the V meets sides it only has to be 3mm lip of wood and problem solved.
 Great build by the way,but watch them ESC 's they are not reliable,iv got the proper programming for them from the manufacturer in china who supply these to HK.
you may be lucky by using 2 motors and ESC so they load but still wouldn't bet on them lasting.
Good luck and nice job
F1
 
Hi.
My first foray into boat speed controllers and have managed to get the correct prog. info, (I think so anyway,Suppo are the makers I believe).
Have had a total rethink on the motor control and will post the results in due course.

Spray rails will work I agree but the full size Aquarama's didn't need them due partly to the fact that they were a near perfect design and most importantly running in full scale water molecules, unlike 10% scale models which have to contend with full scale water.
Most Aquarama models that I have seen run do look ungainly in the water, I am convinced that they are too heavy, grossly under powered and incorrectly balanced, ( boats do have an ideal C. of G. after all ).

Can't prove any of this at the moment but fully intend to.

Mike.
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F1 madness

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #96 on: October 05, 2011, 05:23:21 PM »

Suppo are another company who buy them,they dont make them,i could order them say for instance with red heatshrink and put my name on them.

Agree 100% with full scale and 1/10 scale running on full scale water and i hope you perfected the design so spray rails are not need,CG is the main thing and weight,but if youve built of the plans with no changes to the design etc i think youll find you may have to add them or out up with filling the cockpit area full of water.
I was simply answering the question above and advising the best way to cure it.
Ill be watching to see how get on progress and hope you prove me wrong,but wont know till youve got it on the water
Good Luck
F1  
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #97 on: October 05, 2011, 06:10:45 PM »

Many thanks F1 Madness.
P.M.sent.
Will add the spray rails anyway, as I think you are right in your observations.

Mike.
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John W E

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #98 on: October 05, 2011, 07:23:57 PM »

Hi.
My first foray into boat speed controllers and have managed to get the correct prog. info, (I think so anyway,Suppo are the makers I believe).
Have had a total rethink on the motor control and will post the results in due course.

Spray rails will work I agree but the full size Aquarama's didn't need them due partly to the fact that they were a near perfect design and most importantly running in full scale water molecules, unlike 10% scale models which have to contend with full scale water.
Most Aquarama models that I have seen run do look ungainly in the water, I am convinced that they are too heavy, grossly under powered and incorrectly balanced, ( boats do have an ideal C. of G. after all ).

Can't prove any of this at the moment but fully intend to.





Mike.

That looks a canny chine spray rail to me on the realone and its factory fitted as well

aye
john
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #99 on: October 05, 2011, 08:24:36 PM »

Sorry Mike don't accept any of you your arguments.
1. Weight  they weigh a few grams.
2. Power  they draw less than a servo at idle.
3. Vents can be conceived to not allow water in, they don't have to be at deck level.
4. Absolutely no interference to decent 2.4 receivers, also they are brushless.
5. Why would they need to be waterproof ?
And here's a 6. They will be used in conjunction with water cooling not instead of. Although I see no reason why that can't happen

I don't just dismiss the idea out of hand because it is not the "Norm"

Mike.


Im not closed minded i just think its over complicated solution when simple alternatives are available. Im sure that it will work fine.
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