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Author Topic: Aquarama Build  (Read 174356 times)

ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #175 on: November 03, 2011, 07:18:27 pm »

be interesting to see what you did with the backrest, that is the bit that doesn't fit for me. Did you just reduce the width on that as well Mike by the same approach? If so, cunning!

My varnish has gone wrong, back to the drawing board on the bow and some of the deck. Bit fed up really and need to wait for good weather again (which probably means next year now to be honest, it is too strong to apply in the house).
Also ruined one of my brass rudders when I was soldering it together to the shaft. I think the flux was wrong so more hours have been wasted. Oh to have your skills on some of this stuff.
Yes just the same method Colin but only did one end, until I make the replacement coaming padding I won't know how much to take off.

What varnish are you using with such a bad smell and poor results ?

Mike.
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turbinecol

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #176 on: November 04, 2011, 07:42:20 am »

Trade stuff - it was working fine in decent weather but I tidied up the bow, re-applied and now I am getting a blooming effect all over- its damp basically. The workshop I use is just an elaborate shed which is unheated. Things aren't too bad, I just need to be patient...
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #177 on: November 05, 2011, 12:16:44 pm »

Hello All.
I need all your opinions / thoughts on this modification to the hull that I have made, although it is not scale at all, I believe it may be necessary for the correct running of the model,
given that most seem to ship an awful lot of water unless they are travelling at ridiculously high speeds.
I have hardened up the chine using the 3.5 mm tri stock that I made and carried it forward a little to form a bit of a spray rail

I have only done one side at the moment until I get your comments, good or bad.
Although it is glued on properly I can remove it quite easily leaving no signs that it has ever been there.

For myself, I quite like it and it does look fit for purpose.

Have a look at the photo's and let me have your comments please.

Also, fitted the laser cut dash top Mahogany pieces, (which needed altering of course ), then roughly sanded them to shape before applying one coat of LeTonk to see have they look.

Mike.
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gwa84

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #178 on: November 05, 2011, 01:14:48 pm »

spot on with the rails should help her out of the water and on the plane nicly i say keep em they look right  :-))
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papymouzot

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #179 on: November 05, 2011, 01:51:35 pm »

Hi Mike,

Great work, and a really good idea.  :-))  O0

From what I saw from the original Riva Aquaramas, they are built exactly the same way. Enclosed some photos







Charles
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F1 madness

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #180 on: November 05, 2011, 01:55:02 pm »

Hey mike
nice job on the build and the spray rails look fine too me
GWA i suggested the spray rails not so much getting on plane though they will help but these hulls tend to draw the water up and over top,filling up the boat interior with water,had a couple of chaps down our local boat club with them,i advised fitting the spray rails to deflect the water away from the hull keeping the interior dry,it worked a treat and they were happier than ever rather emptying the  boat of water every couple of mins they could enjoy running them more,thats why somewhere earlier in the thread i suggested the same and hes made a nice job of them
Anybody else building or brought 1 of these id reckonmend they do the same,for the sake of a couple of quid it can help save the electronics etc
Top job mike :-))
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #181 on: November 05, 2011, 04:04:26 pm »

Hey mike
nice job on the build and the spray rails look fine too me
GWA i suggested the spray rails not so much getting on plane though they will help but these hulls tend to draw the water up and over top,filling up the boat interior with water,had a couple of chaps down our local boat club with them,i advised fitting the spray rails to deflect the water away from the hull keeping the interior dry,it worked a treat and they were happier than ever rather emptying the  boat of water every couple of mins they could enjoy running them more,thats why somewhere earlier in the thread i suggested the same and hes made a nice job of them
Anybody else building or brought 1 of these id reckonmend they do the same,for the sake of a couple of quid it can help save the electronics etc
Top job mike :-))


Thanks F1.
On a lighter note tho' and for future reference, can you tell me where I can get a couple of meters of Brazilian Mahogany supplied and machined to 3.5 mm  triangle for a couple of quid ?
I did ask this question in an earlier post but received no replies.
Would have saved me an awful lot of time and money if I could have bought it ready made.

Mike.
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turbinecol

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #182 on: November 05, 2011, 04:10:43 pm »

Very subtle and nicely executed those spray rails.. be interesting to see how much difference they make. If I need them I am going to have to retrofit, which will be painful. But to be honest my boat will be 95% display/ 5% use so I'll have to live with it unless I want to undo more varnish.

Got my brass rudders soldered up - it was the flux all right, swapped it and the job was simplicity itself.
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F1 madness

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #183 on: November 05, 2011, 04:16:26 pm »

Hi mike
ok a couple of quid was more of an expression
The guys used hardwood brought from local diy as theres boat are painted then touched them after fitting them,but as for mahogany 1s i cant help there without doing a good search on the net,surely some1 does them somewhere
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #184 on: November 05, 2011, 04:24:46 pm »

Hi mike
OK a couple of quid was more of an expression
The guys used hardwood brought from local diy as theres boat are painted then touched them after fitting them,but as for mahogany 1s i cant help there without doing a good search on the net,surely some1 does them somewhere


That's O.K. F1

Just a little leg pull, knew exactly what you meant. :-))

You are quite right though, as a lot of builders of this model do paint the whole of the botton in white, so any wood would do in that case.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #185 on: November 05, 2011, 04:30:45 pm »

Very subtle and nicely executed those spray rails.. be interesting to see how much difference they make. If I need them I am going to have to retrofit, which will be painful. But to be honest my boat will be 95% display/ 5% use so I'll have to live with it unless I want to undo more varnish.

Got my brass rudders soldered up - it was the flux all right, swapped it and the job was simplicity itself.
Hi Colin thanks for the comment.

I may be wrong and maybe the model doesn't need the hardening of the chines, belt and braces I suppose.

By the way, can you post your motors, propellers and ESC's setup because I know several potential builder of the Amati kit would like to know this ?

Mike.
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papymouzot

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #186 on: November 05, 2011, 04:31:36 pm »

but... I saw many, many Rivas Aquaramas, Super Aquaramas, Aquarama special, Tritone, etc... outside water this week, and they all have the hull painted in white AND blue or dark red... as you can see a little bit on the pictures I posted earlier.

I saw also before that many modelers painted the whole of the bottom in white, but they should not... %)
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papymouzot

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #187 on: November 05, 2011, 04:40:45 pm »

I am also very interested with information about propellers, motors, ESC's to use with this boat, I am about to start the building of the same kit shortly and I find it difficult today to find out exactly which motors to use for example...

I am following various threads and I am learning as model builders post how they progress, this is a huge help for me.

I have found nice shafts and propellers from Raboesh, the propellers are 3 blades of course, 35mm, and have a pitch of 35.9

I was told to get motors which would have about 900kv, but I find it very difficult to find such motors. The only ones I have on my list which have a reasonable size are the ones ukmike found, the Turnigy 540. However, on the Hobbywing web site, the reviews on this motor aren't good.

I found neumotors 1415/2Y, but they are at 1100kv, and are quite long.... quite heavy... and 4  or 5 times the cost of the Turnigy..

and the worse think, I am not sure about exactly how much kv I should take, so all the advice which can be provided is really welcomed !!!  %%

Charles
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ukmike

  • Guest
Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #188 on: November 05, 2011, 04:50:01 pm »

I am also very interested with information about propellers, motors, ESC's to use with this boat, I am about to start the building of the same kit shortly and I find it difficult today to find out exactly which motors to use for example...

I am following various threads and I am learning as model builders post how they progress, this is a huge help for me.

I have found nice shafts and propellers from Raboesh, the propellers are 3 blades of course, 35mm, and have a pitch of 35.9

I was told to get motors which would have about 900kv, but I find it very difficult to find such motors. The only ones I have on my list which have a reasonable size are the ones ukmike found, the Turnigy 540. However, on the Hobbywing web site, the reviews on this motor aren't good.

I found neumotors 1415/2Y, but they are at 1100kv, and are quite long.... quite heavy... and 4  or 5 times the cost of the Turnigy..

and the worse think, I am not sure about exactly how much kv I should take, so all the advice which can be provided is really welcomed !!!  %%



Charles
Charles.

The reviews of the Turnigy motors are mostly when they were used in aircraft, inrunners are not suited to aircraft use, best used for marine applications.

Mike.


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F1 madness

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #189 on: November 05, 2011, 04:50:51 pm »

That's O.K. F1

Just a little leg pull, knew exactly what you meant. :-))

You are quite right though, as a lot of builders of this model do paint the whole of the botton in white, so any wood would do in that case.

No worries
abit of banter goes along way  :D

For motors you could look at leopard,scorpion,Neu,castle all good quality but then theres the cost and the for esc,swordfish,scorpion,castle,turnigy/seawing
i run Leopard motors and swordfish esc with no issues at all,also run scorpion outrunners aswell with good results
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turbinecol

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #190 on: November 05, 2011, 06:15:16 pm »


I saw also before that many modelers painted the whole of the bottom in white, but they should not... %)

Good observation - they are white down to the chine though, along the full length and round the stern, so from most angles you only see the white. Hard to be 100% sure, but if you look at the internet there is certainly evidence that most of these craft had a coloured panel down there, and mostly red it seems (I originally thought it was unpainted mahogany). There is a line on the Amati drawing to suggest the split actually. Still, there are greater problems to worry about on this model...
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turbinecol

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #191 on: November 05, 2011, 07:09:32 pm »


By the way, can you post your motors, propellers and ESC's setup because I know several potential builder of the Amati kit would like to know this ?

Mike.

Hmm, well I am not sure my experience counts for much as none of my boats have seen a pond yet! Actually I am lying a little - I did some trials with my Bluebird of Chelsea which looked beautiful on the water but was already sitting slightly below the scale water line - that after I'd followed David Metcalf's notes on displacement to the letter, and still with a bunch of other finishing fittings (more weight) to be added. 
But anyway, my approach for the Riva is as follows, so far:

1. I am (sort of) using the Amati transmission kit (comes with noisy plastic gearboxes and twin 540's I think. Cannot see branding on the motors. I reckon they are too big anyway...)
2. ESC is an Action Electronics Mixer (P94 I think)  - this thing is very twitchy to set up, very hard to get both props running together and stopped together. But anyway, I threw good money at it, so it stays for the moment.
3. Rudders - I was using the ones from the trans kit but they are a bit hefty so I also made some brass ones that look a lot sleeker - I can swap them easily and see if they make any difference on the water, but when the boat is back on display gathering dust, it can have the brass ones on it for keeps! I moved the rudders back 10mm (with internal modifications), to give me more room for bigger props and to better match the 'display position' for the rudders.
4. Props - the plastic ones supplied in the trans kit may work well but boy are they ugly, I replaced them with twin handed 3 blade Raboesch, yes I think they were the 35mm ones.
5. Prop supports are brass struts 'Araldited' deep into the hull, with silver soldered bronze bushes. They are supposed to take the shaft reaction, so they are reasonably beefy. A bit of a gamble, but with adjustment the thrust could be taken up by the gearbox bearing, not the motor itself because of the layout.
6. Prop shafts (4mm) - the props run exposed outside the hull and through the bronze bushes; the shaft tubes are ground back flush with the hull line and will be painted so that they cannot be seen. There are very small bronze bushings pushed just out of sight inside these tubes. 
7.  I have shortened the trans kit gearbox propshaft output itself to suit the arrangement -  with the motors mounted in place under the seat, the gearbox shafts pass to a pair of Huco couplings and then out to the props shafts themselves through the hull.

If it works at all, I'll be amazed!! Should look good though which is my primary concern to be honest. If it doesn't sink on the lake and can idle along besides the odd yacht and generic tug at Maldon, I'll be more than happy.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #192 on: November 16, 2011, 11:23:56 am »

Hello All.

In my attempt to faithfully reproduce this beautiful boat I have lost sight of the basic reason that I started it.

It seems that no two examples are the same, every one has been restored at some point so there is not a true representation of the original and I have looked at hundreds of pictures of them.

Therefore, this build will now become MY restoration build. I will still try reproduce the basic attributes of the original but keep in mind from now on that the finished model will be, (and was always intended to be), a gift to my 2 beautiful grandsons.

The Amati kit ever more disappoints me as I progress through the build, especially the supplied seats and upholstery, these are truly a disaster. The rest of the accessories are not to bad but do require a fair degree work on them.

I have even had to send a couple of parts away for re chroming, just to make them usable.

I intend to correct the problems with the seats and upholstery and use as many of the supplied accessories as possible, this will make progress very slow so there will be no new posts here for a little while.

I haven't abandoned this thread and will resurrect it from time to time to keep all interested parties up to date with the build.

Stay well everyone.

Mike.


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Martin (Admin)

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #193 on: November 16, 2011, 02:31:27 pm »


           <:(
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #194 on: November 16, 2011, 03:45:52 pm »

Hello All.

In my attempt to faithfully reproduce this beautiful boat I have lost sight of the basic reason that I started it.

It seems that no two examples are the same, every one has been restored at some point so there is not a true representation of the original and I have looked at hundreds of pictures of them.

Therefore, this build will now become MY restoration build. I will still try reproduce the basic attributes of the original but keep in mind from now on that the finished model will be, (and was always intended to be), a gift to my 2 beautiful grandsons.

The Amati kit ever more disappoints me as I progress through the build, especially the supplied seats and upholstery, these are truly a disaster. The rest of the accessories are not to bad but do require a fair degree work on them.

I have even had to send a couple of parts away for re chroming, just to make them usable.

I intend to correct the problems with the seats and upholstery and use as many of the supplied accessories as possible, this will make progress very slow so there will be no new posts here for a little while.

I haven't abandoned this thread and will resurrect it from time to time to keep all interested parties up to date with the build.

Stay well everyone.

Mike.






mike just enjoy the build and enjoy boating with your grandsons. Dont try to hard and take fun out of the build or it will ruin the hobby for you, which is what its all about.
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #195 on: November 16, 2011, 04:19:34 pm »



mike just enjoy the build and enjoy boating with your grandsons. Dont try to hard and take fun out of the build or it will ruin the hobby for you, which is what its all about.

You are quite right Mike.

Lost my way a little, perfection in my case isn't achievable.

This is going to be  finished to the best of my ability but allways keeping in mind the original purpose of the build, simple may be best.

Mike.
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turbinecol

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #196 on: November 16, 2011, 06:23:04 pm »

The loss of daylight hours doesn't help enthusiasm I find. I've ground to a halt completely... 
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #197 on: November 16, 2011, 07:07:06 pm »

I think youve done a great job to be honest. i think the dash and the seats look brilliant. they actually look comfy :}
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ukmike

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #198 on: November 19, 2011, 11:09:49 am »

This may be of some interest, especially Mad Mike as we have discussed the pro's and con's of cooling fans previously.  ok2

A simple Plenum Chamber positively pressurised to extract any hot air from the, "Engine Room". Not scale I know but this is my restoration after all.  O0

I have made provision for preventing normal amounts of water ingress from the cockpit area but obviously it won't cope with buckets full .

There's a perfect sump already in the FWD cockpit where the grating sits.

Some photo's.

Mike.
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MikeA

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Re: Aquarama Build
« Reply #199 on: November 19, 2011, 11:36:24 am »

its not that i was against the use of cooling fans, its something used reguly. i use car esc's for my boats and people will disagree with that. All i was pointing out was why use fans when a few bits of pipe and a water scoop would do the job sufficiently? its a lot simpler, cheaper, not likely to go wrong, you wont need to worry about what ingress at all and if there is it wont damage anything. Do as you wish its your boat :-))
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