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[peterm1250]

hi everyone, my names pete and ive joined the site to extract as much info, a duffer like me can get so i can build
my second bait boat,without making too many mistakes.
i looked on the site a few days ago, and some chap was going to use the rule bilge pumps as the drive for a cat type
baitboat, anyone no if he was successfull?. if so i would like to find out .
im sorry idont remember who posted anyone able tohelp .ithink the posting was a while back.
  thanks pete.

[treeboa]

rule pumps work well BUT unless you install one facing forwards they wont reverse the boat, issue then is stopping the forward facing pump spooling up when driving forwards, and the rear pumps when reversing, min you will need is two esc`s for the steering as well

[ACTion]

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Bait%20Boat%20Version%202%20.pdf
We can also supply a diagram for the four-pump version used by Kent carp angler Alan Vincent for the last three years. His boat has full forward and reverse using Rule 1100gpm pumps.
Dave M

[peterm1250]

cheers guys,  you know  more  than  me  what  a  minefield  it  is  when  you  are  just  starting  out
i  thought  it  might  be.
it  seems  as  though  you  solve  all  of  your problems, then  something  jumps  up  and  smacks  you
in the  face.  Which  is  why  i  thought  it  a good  idea  for  the  use  of  pumps  instead of  motors.
the reason  i  wanted  to  know  how  well the  other  member  who  was  fitting  pumps,   was  doing
is do the pumps  generate  as  much  heat as motors, need  to  be  fused,  and easier  to  fit  and  seal.
reversing is not that  important  to me  on  the  water  i use,and  hopefully  if  i  get  the  spacing  between
the  two  outlets  correct  the  boat  will  turn  tightly  enough for me.

[treeboa]

look into water jets, i have a pair in a cat, two motors and they will reverse without buckets,  i have a pair of graupner 2345`s running off a pair of 400`s, a mixer and she is too fast as a bait boat on full speed, will near turn in her own space

[peterm1250]

thanks  treeboa,  i  will  look  at  the  waterjets.

[martno1fan]

Why not use a prop and make a weed guard that allows water in but nothing else this way you can have reverse and betetr steering using a rudder.Less messing about than using water pumps too.Weed guard could be plastic tubing (bottle) cut to shape with holes for water to enter or even stainless mesh or both  ,simple but works and would out manouvre most baitboats on the market i bet and save you a fortune,it amazes me when people pay hundreds of pounds for  plastic baitboats thats just stupid if you ask me,you could use a suitable glass hull or even make your own using foam and fibrgeglass,in fact its got me thinking think i need to bring some to the market for next year so will get my thinking cap on,im thinking a tunnel design with a  single or twin props and centralised rudder hmm nice easy bait dropper design so people can fit these out simply using a cpl servos one for dropper one for rudder.
Mart

[treeboa]

cat hulls are favourites, stable, decent bait capacity ( 1k per hopper) , manouvering is more important than speed, twin motors on a mixer rather than tank steering with twin sticks, lighting so you know which way its facing at distance, ideally running on 7.2 race packs ( 545 motors)


now from my sons point of view

cup holders - so dad can send son a can

large clip - so dad can send son the paper

large sport motors - so when sons bored he can wind other anglers up and chase ducks

loud klaxton - so son can wake dad up


one thing i have found, the cheap planet radios dont have the distance some of these boats are used at, also mine does not like mtronic esc`s with the 2.4 radio - gone back to 40mhz

[martno1fan]

One motor, one prop one rudder = one servo then one servo for bait dropper or door flap or whatever you use and one esc for the motor= a 3 channel setup= cheap,Go with one of the new 2.4 radios you will have decent range for £35  .No need for lights,night time is for sleeping  .
Mart

[treeboa]

allthough you say no lights, at 100 yards plus you cant see which way the boats pointing, hence nav lights
rudder - more to get hung up on when running in shallow water /across weed, also can get the line hung up when you dump your bait and  hook

[knoby]

i have been using a bait boat i built for about 15 years now, it has single prop & rudder with a cage around it. Whilst i have been using it, my friends have spent £1000's getting the latest ready made bait boats, mostly with jet drives & i can honestly say i have had far fewer problems with mine than they have with theirs. The main trouble seems to be how you drive it & where you drive it. Another advantage is that i can fix any problem i have with mine, so i wouldn't necessarily agree that a prop & rudder gives more operating problems than jet drives.

Glenn

[martno1fan]

allthough you say no lights, at 100 yards plus you cant see which way the boats pointing, hence nav lights
rudder - more to get hung up on when running in shallow water /across weed, also can get the line hung up when you dump your bait and  hook

If you cant see which way a boat is pointing at 100 yards i think you shoulda gone to
 specsavers  .Seriously its quite easy to see which way a boat is pointed,if you have problems then simply painting the bow a bright colour will do the job no need for lights.Also as i said before a simple weed guard works a treat against weed , you can have a simple weed guard that keeps it away from the prop and also rudder should you wish to do one large enough.No need for expensive bait boats from companys that have seen you carpers coming.

- glass hull lets say £100
- motor £20
- esc£30-50
- radio £35
- battery £10-30 depends
- rudder£10 or make one,
- prop about £5
- shaft and tube £30
... how much have we  got there? £240-280

So lets say with a few extras thrown in maybe  a tad over £300 less if you already have some items.Keep it simple and leave all the gadgets for inspector gadget 

[treeboa]

glass hull !!!!!!   not many of those around that are not second mortgage  , issue with a lot of these boats is they are totally black, or worse cammo, have that and in low light conditions you can have problems, or shoving them under trees that overhang, i have yet to see any carp/pike lads painting the bows in a dayglow colour, though realistically i understand it would make no difference to the fish  the attitude seems to be if you can see it easy then its no good  , you can buy glass bait boat hulls  less that your figure, i actually use a depth sonar on mine so being able to turn on the spot with two motors is better than a single motor/rudder

knoby
         as you say a lot is how and were you drive the boats, if you have driven yours a couple of years without a problem then your doing better than most  , they may be expensive but open most up and they look to have been built on a budget by monkey`s, few as standard seem to have even flexible couplings never mind in tube propshafts, my own , the bsa pocket rocket new is over £500, insides a pair of 545 motors, a pair of stainless shafts bonded directly to the motor shaft, then through the hull via a small oil seal, then the props again bonded to the shaft, then the lots bonded into the hull with basically black silicone sealant, mines not, i got it s/h will iffy motors, stripped it and replaced the lot with new motors, short shafts and flex joints, it now runs quieter/longer and if needed faster

[martno1fan]

I build fibreglass hulls and have been asked several times to do a baitboat this is what i was talking about before,i will do one but i do have other projects on the go allready.I can do em any colour even two tone so bottom could be black, top can be any colour you can think of within reason,how about Magenta lol.I agree most baitboats on the market are overpriced and poor quallity.Id bet any money the setup i suggested would last years unlike most rtr baitboats costing 4 times as much.Like i allways say keep it simple and not much can go wrong.You dont even need droppers like they have which allways seem to go wrong,a simple trap door at the back and a sloping bait compartment would work just fine.
Mart

[treeboa]

theres a few boats that use that type of hopper, trouble is they tend not to drop `wet` bait that well/ have a poor capacity and for the pike lads with dead baits you have problems with large dead baits in a small hopper, having used that type of hopper and the horizontal `drop` type i prefer the horizontal  dropper/trap door

dont talk colours like magenta, i have a modded rear hopper boat here i got as a project, offered it to lilyann for when she comes fishing with me  `spray it pink then` was the reply

main thing i have found when doing repairs on boats is condensation damage, most the shaft systems seem to leak and the water is either not drained or cannot fully drain, take boat home - warm house and eventually you get issues, my pocket rocket had two nice rusty motors in it, yet she had never been submerged, black hull on a nice hot days probably did damage as well

custom electronics dont help as you cant just replace the rx with an off the shelf one

[6705russell]

I must admit this Bait boat i am about to put on ebay for my dad is quite a good one, the depth/fishifinder works great...

Russ

[Martin (Admin)]

Is motor noise an issue with bait boats?

 I would have though water pump / jet drives would have caused a huge amount of noise / turbulence in the water scaring off the fish!


 .... I know a lot about fishing, I watch those programs on Quest .... and walk past the Fish counter in Asda!

[6705russell]

I have seen this one running in the lake, very quiet i thought and the fish finders work brilliantlly....

Russ

[treeboa]

personally i think the noise is more angler related, generally we like to sit there in peace and quiet, theres a thing called spodding in carp fishing were you load up a container with bait and heave it via a rod, i watched a lad the other week on the pit were i fish heave 20 spod fulls of bait in, bloody big splash as it lands, i had the boat with me and put my groundbait plus hook bait about 25 yards down the bank under a big overhanging tree ( no way i could cast under it) , then another about 30 yards out on a ridge, i used the fish finder/sonar to locate the ridge, later in the day one the guys came around for a natter, he noticed the boat and said oh those things cause too much disturbance, at this i replied what about spodding ??, to prove the point the guy across the pit again heaved in a load of bait via a spod, more like mini depth charges, to show the guy i put a bit more bait over the ridge with the boat, he had to agree the boat created less disturbance, so then he hit another tack, using a boats cheating, so i replied so is using a rod, a reel and a bite alarm, then it got down to price, which i think is the main bone of contention, that plus people using them to fish at excessive range/against snags/driving them through other guys swims, for me personally its a tool, i have a damaged back from a cliff fall, distance casting, excessive casting ( spodding) casting from funny angles to get under trees etc cause me pain, the boat means i dont have to worry about setting my damaged back off

as i have said your not running these things at speed, so the turbulence is not there, obviously anything big floating over a fish will create predator panic, but like with my labrador - free food soon has them back 

[martno1fan]

theres a few boats that use that type of hopper, trouble is they tend not to drop `wet` bait that well/ have a poor capacity and for the pike lads with dead baits you have problems with large dead baits in a small hopper, having used that type of hopper and the horizontal `drop` type i prefer the horizontal  dropper/trap door

dont talk colours like magenta, i have a modded rear hopper boat here i got as a project, offered it to lilyann for when she comes fishing with me  `spray it pink then` was the reply

main thing i have found when doing repairs on boats is condensation damage, most the shaft systems seem to leak and the water is either not drained or cannot fully drain, take boat home - warm house and eventually you get issues, my pocket rocket had two nice rusty motors in it, yet she had never been submerged, black hull on a nice hot days probably did damage as well

custom electronics dont help as you cant just replace the rx with an off the shelf one

I dont think bate sticking to the hopper i have in mind would ever be a problem,also glass is pretty slippery when wet  hehe.It will be a big one too the hull wont be small and the hopper will be massive.Im open to ideas on bait dropper but i want to keep it simple so people can fit these out themselves using two servos an esc and a cheap 3 channel radio,the new skyfly radios are awesome we use em on our gas boats all for £35-45,ill just offer the hulls.
Mart

[treeboa]

the hopper door mech, a.t use a wire that changes length when electic current is passed though it on thier side tippers, my bsa boat uses a lever and catch via a servo, the dynacraft use a wire from a servo through to a Z shaped pivot catch to hold back a spring loaded door, others use a similar idea but include a moving bulkhead, also a tipping type hopper thats either spring controlled or via a coarse screw driven by a slow motor, theres a half pipe that revolves as well

[martno1fan]

When i decide to start one ill get a few sketches of my design and let you have a look see what you think.But im a little busy finishing off my new 40" fast electric design at the moment so will be a while off yet.
Mart

[craftysod]

.... I know a lot about fishing, I watch those programs on Quest .... and walk past the Fish counter in Asda!

Martin  the fish in Asda dont seem to be scared of the noise 

[John Mk2]

Martin  the fish in Asda dont seem to be scared of the noise 

Yes but they are alway's watching