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[irishcarguy]

At 60rpm it would look like a heli rotor, but if you play with the voltage you can get it down to 25/26rpm which will look scale. You may have to put a resistor in the wiring to get it correct. Mick B.

[gregk9]

Thanks for that info guys, much appreciated. I will try to reduce the voltage supply first, via resistor, but dealing with only 3v, it may be difficult,, but will try before swapping for a lower rpm motor

[irishcarguy]

The motor you are using will be fine I use the same one, just reduce the voltage as you said, its not hard & you can buy resistors for pennies from the component shop, they will even tell you how much a specific resistor will reduce the voltage. Mick B.

[CF-FZG]

Thanks for that info guys, much appreciated. I will try to reduce the voltage supply first, via resistor, but dealing with only 3v, it may be difficult,, but will try before swapping for a lower rpm motor

Change to a single cell battery, that should reduce your voltage by half, and if you're using a Nixx cell the voltage will stabilise at around 1.2v-1.3v giving you approx 24-26rpm


Mark.

[ACTion]

At 1:12 that would be 2 RPM which would look wrong
Ned

Ned
Are you serious? Angular rotational speed isn't subject to scaling factors like linear speed is. One revolution is always  one revolution, irrespective of how big the revolving thing is, and a minute is always a minute (ignoring the effect of travelling near light speed......or a slow watch). Thus 30RPM at 1/12 scale is the same as 30RPM at full scale - or any other scale.
GregK9
Your motor may not start at below 3v, in which case reducing the battery size would be pointless.
DM

[Netleyned]

Thats what I meant it still had to run around 24 RPM I just put it over badly 

Ned

[DickyD]

Thats what I meant it still had to run around 24 RPM I just put it over badly 

Ned

Thank god for that, thought I was having an old moment.

[gregk9]

Ive rechecked the info that came with the motor, plsu a recheck on their website and its actually 30 rpm.
I have tried reducing the voltage, simply out of curiosity, but the motor will not drive, the emf is too low to kick the armature over. Did try a search f my electrical bits box for some resistores, but after finding the full details out about the motor, i dotn really thinks it is necessary to try and attempt to lower by 4 rpm, thats going way over the top.

Incidentally Dave [Action] the electronics are superb, all wired up no problem, I just "adjusted" a wiring diiagram off your site for the "Dusseldorf" and all works fine.

The sound system is fine too. Simply love the engien startup as you can hear both of them kick in individually.
I just need to find a sound sample for the caterpillar units on startup/shutdown now to compliment your cat engine running sound bit.

[gregk9]

A FAVOUR TO ASK........................................

I have photo's of a mersey lifeboat, no problem, I have copies of the RNLI plans, but what I don't have is the measurements of the small access "hole" opposite to the fire hydrant point in the forward upper cabin..
Could anyone be kind enough to enlighten me please.




Its the "aperture", just forward of the engine access cover.
I would like to be able to cut this in correct position, rather than simply guess at it.
many thanks in advance.

[gregk9]

Many thanks to the kind person that sent me a "pm" with the info on the item I asked about, its a pity they did not wish to be named by a public reply, but they seemed reluctant to do so for some reason, but never mind.  I can now sort that part of the build out now, in due course.


now that the upper cabin paintwork has fully dried out. I can now continue work on the anti slip surface. It was necessary to paint the item complete, to get a decent substantial coat of pain on everything, rather than start masking different areas off for nor real specific reason. i lightely sanded the anti slip surfaces and have applied a matt coat of clear laquer to finish off. this now gives the correct effect and well worth waiting for.
I perfer to let any paint coat stand for a few days, to allow all the thinners to dry out of it, otherwise if you recoat too soon, the pain can potentially "react" with the newer cat, causing to to craze or crack, so best left to air dry for as long as possible in my books. It also allows me to carry on doing other jobs on the build.

[returnee]

Greg,
On the picture you have just posted showing the access hole you wanted the position of I can see small black numbers in a red circle.

Do you or anyone else know where thes can be obtained from,as I am going to need a full set for a 1/16 severn class lifeboat.
Gerard

[Number 6]

Greg,
On the picture you have just posted showing the access hole you wanted the position of I can see small black numbers in a red circle.

Do you or anyone else know where thes can be obtained from,as I am going to need a full set for a 1/16 severn class lifeboat.
Gerard

Why not use lettering packs from Becc or Barry's Model Lettering? The red sets have circles in them, then just figure out what size lettering you'd need for the numbers. That's how I did the ones on my 1/16 Trent, Dave. 

[returnee]

Thanks for that Dave I will have a look atb those sites.
Gerard

[gregk9]

To make things a bit easier to operate, especially the master electrical switches for the P94 esc and Action sound unit for example. I am utilising 2 of the forward deck hatches to "hide" them under. Well it saves having to keep lifting the complete upper cabin on/off every time. this means the only time the cabin needs to be removed is to gain access to the battery packs for charging.

The switches will be mounted on the forward section of the deck floor, which was cut out originally when the deck was fitted. this is removeable, after taking out a couple of screws and then acts as a "splash shield" over the electrical circuit board. So just in case it hits any heavy water, the risk of water dropping on to the electrics is reduced. no, I won't say the risk is eliminated, thats pushing my luck too far [ha ha].

the main master power switch, due to its current carrying capacity is quite a heavy unit, so only needs a firmer base mount plate, whereas the sound unit and "other switchgear" are smaller in size, so they have a raised "pod" for their mount, saving fingers having to probe too deeply to switch on/off.
the pictures show the initial start of the panel, the raised pod is yet to get its top lid.

[gregk9]

I have recieved some pioctures of my boat on its first "sea trials" as its a bit tricky to take pictures and operate the controls at the same time.
All went well, no leaks, motors did not even get warm and the driveshafts too full power without a problem. It did give a good almost scale cruising speed, running on a temporary 12v gel battery, even if a bit heavier than it should be, hence its waterline appearance in the pictures, but once running on correct batteries, it will be a bit lighter and I can get the weight balance a lot better.
I am running 50mm 4 blade props at present and it seems to perform ok and gives a reasonable r, but will have to see how things go with the correct battery sticks, once the arrive in the post. I do have the originally supplied 4 blade 55mm props in the spares box, but they were supplied for brushless motors, but no harm in testing out at some stage.

The Action P94 Dual Esc took care of the turns buy slowing the inner turn motor, along with the rudder control, so no need for "tank steering" at all. I can stay with using normal transmitter stick setup, which then allows me to operate "other functions" on them too.

The Action sound unit certanly echoes across the open water too. the water seemed to help the bass out a lot, making it sound far better outside/in water than it sitting on a bench with the system running.

[Mk1]

Hi when I was taken photos of the lifeboat yesterday I remembered you wanted the size of the cut out opposite side to the fire hydrant the size on this boat is 295mm high by 200mm wide hope this helps

John

[HS93 (RIP)]

have you got any pictures of it at speed?

[gregk9]

Thanks John for the  dimensions, its appreciated.

And, er no, sorry no pics of the Mersey  "at speed", I was not in control of the camera, so could only accept what was taken on my behalf and of what the boat was doing at the time.

maybe next time it goes for a paddle, I can get someone else at the helm of the controls whilst I do the photoshoot.

Ive FINALLY recieved a set of the correct windows from Speedline models after waiting patiently for over 6 weeks and having a set of "Severn class" sent in error a couple of weeks ago.
I have to admit it was most unusual for Speedline to make such an error, So I can start assembly of these and get them installed shortly.

[Rottweiler]

must be just your bad luck with your replacement windows.I had two sets of the same side (port) enclosed with my order.I made a phone call,and was given loads of apologies,and received a replacement set two days later.I reckon it only took two days,because I rang late in the day,if I had rung earlier,I am sure the replacements would have been received the next day.

[gregk9]

I have to admit that the long wait for the Speedline window kit is well worth it. the laser cutting accuracy of all the window items,makes building them very easy. they only require appplication of "plasticweld" to bond them together [As recommended by Speedline].
To try and get a bit of age/colour to the frames Ive opted to use Tamiya "titanium silver", this having a slightly greyer hue than using straight/bright silver or aluminium colour. This did take a couple of coats to deepen up and fully cover over the clear perspex, so best to take time here.
Prior to installing the actual "inner glazing unit" to the outer frame, I took the liberty of painting the inner edge, which abuts the inner glazing, so removes the necessity of masking later and risk of getting paint on the glazing.

Once fully dry, the last piece was bonded to the frame with plasticweld and left to fully dry before installation in the upper cabin.
the windows were bonded in the cabin with  a very thin application of epoxy resin around the frame edge and gently lowered in place and held with some masking tape untill the glue had set.

[gregk9]

Firstly, appologies for the absence of updates, but i have had to undergo further medical surgery to the nerves in my left arm, so been out of action for a while, but this build is the best physiotherapy anyone could ask for, as it is helping me to regain the full dexterity in my fingers again.

I have made up the base frame for the rudder post cover, well its alwast a "better to have" thing, than hope for the best and something happens "down under" and you cant simply reach the control arms or something.  I firstly inlaid a ledge  under the main deck, this is where the top styrene cover will sit, as the wooden base, which was kept from the original deck cutout. A couple of wooden shaped formers were made, using the cut deck edges as pattern, then bonded to the underside of the cover. a couple of cross braces making up a rectangular frame.

Once fully dry the top wooden face was scored using a dremel, so the epoxy resin has something to grip to, same goes for the underside of the styrene, make sure to sand this well so the glue can bond to it.

one the glue was applied and its position checked, it was clamped up to dry.

please remember, once the epoxy has begun to set, carefull cut off the excess glue before it fully dries, as its easiert o do it now, rather than having to file/grind it off later once its gone rock solid.










I have also added a couple of additional wooden underbraces, under the main deck, at the sides of the rudder cover, this will enable the uses of a couple of small screws to hold the cover in place and help reduce water ingress by ensuring a tight fit with the cover, rather than reliant upon gravity to hold in place. its also one less piece that falls off every time you pick it up too!

[gregk9]

Now that the deck is in place, I can get round to finishing off the rear deck of the flying bridge, as this has been left hanging in mid air for some time. But without the deck in place and knowing its curvature, final shaping of these items was not practically possible.

I have also added the "wt" access hatch to the flying bridge floor, firstly cutting out a piece of the chequerplate, then using the cut our piece as a pattern to cut a slightly thicker plain styrene piece, from which the actual door and frame was marked out and using a knife, carefully cutting the line edge of the hatch door, so for all apparent purposes, the hatch could be opened, due to the thicker "edge line", rather than just simply scoring the line edge. The handle holes were marked and punched out using a leather punch and a crosss bar handle glued across the holes.

The rear deck supports started with the main centre piece, which will also hold the main mast assembly so needs to be securely bonded in, plus using a thicker styrene sheet where ness for strength. I have also added some rear braces which key in to the wooden cross brace behind this panel, just to keep things square and reduce flexing as far as possible.
The step/vent panel was next to be made, A drill used to form the corner radii of the vent grille area, before cutting out and adding some alloy mesh from behind.  I appreciate the full size version is a one piece item here, but this is the best way I could find to replicate the vent grille here.
The step was added and the side supports added. The tread will be added later along with the support plates for the mast assembly.

[gregk9]

I have now made up the chequer plate step panel for the flying bridge step/ After studting pictures, the cheque rplate is bent over the front face of the step, so have a curved edge, not a welded square edge. So first job was to cut a chamfer on the plastic edge of the step, to allow for the radius of the chequer plate, careful use of a sharp knife here, better to make several passes, than one over deep cut and cut clean through the styrene.

[gregk9]

I have installed a couple of the electrical switches, in to their respective panels. the first and most important is the master power switch, this is positioned under the foremost hatch cover and will be kept as a single switch, so no mistaking it for anything else, even though it is clearly labelled.  the second switch panel will carry further switches in due course, but for now, the switch fitted is for the Action sound module. Again using the hatch covers, so you only need to open hatches to switch the boat on. You only need to remove the main superstructure for battery access, fo either recharge or swapping.

[batfish]

Really nice build mate,

Like the idea with the switch gear, very neat install.

adam