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[gregk9]

Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated.

i tend to find a majority of people put all the switchgear inside the boat when they build it, but it makes switching both the power and other "accessories" a bit of a chore every time.

yes i do know about r/c switches, but you cant beat a proper on/off switch for certain functions, especially the master power one. but fiting them this way makes it easier to operate the boat once poolside as you dont have to keep lifting the superstructure to do so.

one of the hatches doe open to reveal a proper locker undernmeath, but the other two serve as switch covers.

[Netleyned]

Might be worth putting a charging socket in the third locker so you can also charge the batteries easily.
Just a thought.
Love the build so far

Ned

[returnee]

Hi Greg,
A great build, would like to do somethung similar.
How do you keep the hatches shut and watertight during sailing.
Gerard

[gregk9]

I did think about a charging socket, but I am running Lipo batteries, so due to the "nervouse nature" of lipo batteries, I prefer to recharge these out of the boat. otherwise if running nimh or led/gel I would of fitted a socket, no problem,, as I do have them installed in other boats.

The hatches are a "click fit" on their surrounds, so once closed, they stay shut surprisingly enough.  the hatch surround does stand pround by about 4mm so there is a fair "overlap" to reduce this risk But, id not be sailing in weather that is likely to break water over the hatches anyway. As a seconndary  lock, I will be adding a "little something" extra, but that is not for the build thread yet, so sorry, cant give the game away yet!

I admit it is a Lifeboat, but only a model, not full scale and the water tightness of models cannot be totally guaranteed, although yes, some people do manage to depict these demonstrating a full "roll over", check U tube out and see for yourself.

[dpbarry]

I have sorted a few minor items out today, making up the inner liner for one of the forward lockers, adding the partitions and topping with some plastruct tubing, cut along its length, as you would with water pipe insulation, to protect the sharp edge of the partition tops.

I have now sanded down the plastic rod/s I used to simulate the engine cover bolt heads, so now they are a more realistic height. I have also made up the small cover plates for the deck hatch springs to sit in, to prevent them from rotating when the hatches are opened/closed.
I have also made up the basic design of the Df aerial, still needs a little detailling, but its "getting there!
One last item for today was to make up a couple of flying bridge screen hinge brackets, so the screen finally has some location for me to work from.

Hi Gregk9

Just reading up on your build of the Mersey..  Great job.. I had intended to build one years ago but due to 'issues' I lost the will but now that I have rejoined, the 'bug' has come back..

Just one query.  I see you are building your Mersey with the old style D/F aerial.  Any particular reason why?

Regards

Declan

[gregk9]

I was asked to build one of those for a freind. I just happened to post a picture on here with it in place thats all, as this particular boat does not have one fitted, using a later radio.

[dpbarry]

I was asked to build one of those for a freind. I just happened to post a picture on here with it in place thats all, as this particular boat does not have one fitted, using a later radio.

No problem.  Was just curious.  I remember the old style DFvon lifeboat 12-29 (Newcastle, Co Down).  Just rejoined the station.  Hopefully as a nice christmas pressy, HQ will have me enrolled as crew for both Inshore and All Weather boat within the next week or two.

Declan

[Netleyned]

Good Luck to you Declan
Remember the old saying
'One hand for the ship and one for yourself'
It's stopped me from an involuntary swim more than once.

Ned

[dpbarry]

Good Luck to you Declan
Remember the old saying
'One hand for the ship and one for yourself'
It's stopped me from an involuntary swim more than once.

Ned

You only forget that the once  .

Hope to get a load of photographs of our Mersey so that I have them for when I get back to building the 12th scale Mersey. Hopefully should have enough funds after christmas to buy the hull and superstructure from Models by Design.

Declan

[gregk9]

Not done manything to the boat over the last 3 weeks, as ive let my recent operation on the nerves in my arm heal properly, as i think I tried a bit too soon last time and it did not do any good.
So getting back in to things "slowly".

The main drive batteries have now arrived, so I can now start a few sea trials to get the hull balanced properly, same goes with the battery pack for the sound controller.


I have also installed a water circulating pump, to run the exhaust cooling water pipes. i tried with just using a simple water pickup, but it did not draw in sufficient water to give much effect. So after a bit of searching, ive managed to source a water circulating pump, usually found in a drinks machine. runs off 7 - 12v dc, so i can adapt the battery voltage to get the water output  looking right.

[gregk9]

From the packet of "goodies" I purchased from MAC's Moulding's are the deck lights. I first filled in the open areas of the "glass bit" with a double layer of "glue n glaze" to fill them in, but stay clear and prevent water getting at the internal led's. I installed the leds by drilling a suitable diameter hole at an angle of about 30 degrees downwards. So the light shines downwards and not directly straight out the sides of the lamp, giving abettre light effect, plus it means the led is virtually buried in the glass fibre deck sides, so well protected from damage, once sealed in with some expoy.

The led's were looped together in to a circuit, so they can be operated together.

I have also started on the toe boards. first the base plates were plastic welded to the deck and then once fully cured, the upright kick boards are attached , again using plasticweld to ensure a full glue bond and reduce risk of being knocked off.






The resin cast lamps are yet to be painted, once painted, the light emitted through the resin lamp itself will be reduced  and visually better, but at least you get the  general idea. The led's have their resistors, mounted slightly raised from the glass fibre and a piece of silver foil is bonded underneath them, to prevent any heat discolouring the outer paint finish, plus it also allows airflow past the resistors to keep them cool. the internal wiring was bonded to the inner wall with a hot glue gun to keep the wiring in situ.

[gregk9]

Today's little teaser was to create the stern trim tabs. these have been scratch built from plasticard sheet for the main items and strip for the strengthening ribs and hinge bars. the base items being 2mm card for rigidity and 1.5mm for the ribs. All bits being bonded with plasticweld, to ensure a full bond.
 As a temporary measure , all the hinge pins are 2mm plastic rod for now, they will be replaced with stainless steel bolts once tested and checked for adjustment angle whilst running. The trim tabs could well easily be made to function, usings brass rod and levers inside the hull for example, but it is not something i "need" as a function on this build, so mine will be secured, once checked for trim.

[gregk9]

Cabin Interior !

Its time I made sure the cabin interior actually "fits", before i go much further with locating the batteries.

I wanted to make the interior section, "removeable", so if i need to remove to reattach a seat or crew member, its no drama to do so.

How do you make it removeable?

I first added some slotted rails along both sides of the superstructure, just below the window line [inside of course]. These then "accept" the top edge of the interior "pod" and locat it centrally in the hull. I then added a flat plate to the rear of the cabin pod, as this then "hooks" under a plate bonded to the rear deck space.

to make it easily removeable, i soldered a couple of pieces of brass tubing together at one end, soldered on a brass nut to one end. then bonded the "main" brass tube to the underside of the superstructure, just off centre, between the engine access covers. this then enables me to place a set screw through the cabin floor front edge and hold it all together.

Why mount the holding bar "off centre"? Well I still have to add the angles forward deck/control panel;s, plus access door going forward, so did nto want to foul the door angle.




















Ive loosley fitted 2 seats, just to show how the interior will look, the table leg is yet to be aded also. But now I have some "definate location" for the cabin pod, I can move on with the inner steering position and  radar/radio positions too.

[gregk9]

Trim tabs.

I have now managed to get the second one fitted and settled in to place. I have also added the lower fixed guide plates, which step out from the bottom of the hull and cover the hinges, to reduce the amount of water forced up over the top of the tabs.

I have set these trims at 0 degrees' . having decided that adjustale ones are not necessary on my build, i'll leave that for the more adventurous ones out there!
I just have to fabricate the anti fouling blocks and cables, then add them to the trim tab plates.

[irishcarguy]

Hi Greg, your build is coming along real nice. I like the way you put in the water pump. It is easy to see why lifeboats are very popular with model boat builders. You are doing a very nice build there, keep it up. Happy New Year too to you & your family & I hope your arm gets well in a hurry too, we can't have you missing days from your build. Mick B.

[gregk9]

Many thanks for your comments, much appreciated. The nerves in my arm are settling down "slowly", its a bit like a box of fireworks going off at times, but you learn to live with it and hope the final end result brings back some form of normality in my fingers.

Tonights minor trek in to the build has taken me to start constrution of the radar mount. i have already started making the actual radar motor unit and base plate, so have now made a start on the main posts.
I first made the backing plate that abuts the steering position floor, adding the vertical uprights that hold the main vertical bars and tubes, up top the radar.  to reduce the fragility of the unit, I am not making all the pivot items fully operational, these will me replicated fully, but glued in position for strength.

the lower section of uprights are simply square box tubes, with stepped out flanges at their upper ends to accept the tubular upper rods which go up to the radar unit, to add a bit of strength, I sleeved a thinner piece of plastic rod through these and up in to the upper hollow plastic rods, out of sight, but dding in strength.










Once the glue has fully dried, I can then add the electrical trunking conduits, which will carry the power leads for the lights and radar motor

[gregk9]

I took the boat out yesterday to our clubs "bit" for the RNLI   SOS event. I appreciate its no where near completed, but was not going to miss this "shout"!
So after quickly wiring up the radar mast, adding a figure, simply for effect, it was put on display both on and off the water. We did succeed in getting a total of 6 Lifeboats out on the water and many thnks go to all the club members and invited guests who did turn up and also a big thankyou too all the people who kindly put their hands in their pockets and made donations to the SOS day.

The Mersey is now running with its twin 14.8v lipo setup for  the motors and a seperate battery for the Action sound system.  The trim tabs worked well and have reduced the "stern sink" on full throttle it had when sailed without them, so all working right.

[gregk9]

I  have managed to get a bit more done to the radar/aerial mast assembly, been a bit busy sorting some things out for our boat club, so had to put this to one side for a few days.

I have fitted the navigation lights, using led's [5mm] and some nice coloured lens covers from maplin, which have a diffused lens which helps filter out the directional light pattern found with most led's, so gives a more "sideways" pattern than normal. the radar mast has been added to, to take the aerial mast and masthead lamp.  The cable trunk pipes are serving their purpose and are carrying al the cables required to power all the lights and power the radar motor. I still have the blue beacon to install [once it arrives] and fit the amber "bilge water warning lamp". The stern deck spotlamp is under construction currently.

[gregk9]

heres a few pictures of the mast with the lights connected to a bettery.
Kindly accept that there are a few "spare" witres yet to be sorted, once the blue beacon light gets here, so untill then, I cant close off the covering panels for the wiring access.

I am yet to also add a blank plate to the tops of the marker lamps, thats why theu are showing plenty of light upwards too.
Just thought Id say it before it gets commented on!

[gregk9]

Todays little task was to finish off the forward hatch covers. I first made the hatch springs out of some brass rod, coiling them round a drill bit, same diameter as the hinge pivot rod. then added a spacer tube between the inner ends of the springs to keep them spaced.  I added the access handles, adapting these from some mains electrical cable clips, removing the nail and trimming the width down to suit.
The anti slip panel was then cut/shaped from some sanding paper, same used on the main deck areas. trimming to miss the handles and hinges, finally bonding down with some epoxy glue. The anti slip mat will be given a couple of coats of primer to dull the sharpness down a little, before a  top "colour" coat and a final matt clearcoat.

[gregk9]

The forward hatches have had their base coat of orange primer added, so whilst drying, Ive had a go at constructing the  support bar that sites above the engine panels. Kindly forgive me for not knowing its correct title, but I dont have it.
I first drew out a template on paper, taking the measurements and angles from the drawings, then gently heated some 5mm plastic tube to shape, checking against the template before it cooled and "set".
I made the bars oversize on purpose, so the tubes actually pass through their mounting points, so I can bond them in substantially, from behind, so where the bars pass through the outer skin, I have cross drilled the tubes so i can pass a piece of plastic rod through [or brass], to form a "T" section, thus adding strength once the epoxy glue is added to these points.

The forward speaker bracket was added, along with the small electrical box mounted below it. The mounting plate above the centre window was drilled in the corners and some plastic rod bonded in to simulate the mounting bolts, thes being far lighter than using brass or stainless bolts.

[gregk9]

I've managed to do a few jobs tonight. Firstly, ive shortened and converted a klaxon horn to fit the mounting bracket, forward of the cabin centre window. i made the air hose from a piece of soft solder, as easily shaped and the hose will be painted later. the trumpet of the horn was drilled out and then ground a little to give it some depth and shape, rather than it be just a solid painted lump.
my next task was to make up the wiper boxes.
As you may of noticed from the earlier pictures, i had already bonded on the base strips for the wiper arms to run along [although will be fixed - non working], but at least the tracks are visible for those wanting to peer upside down at them.
The top of the boxes was then raised in height with a further strip of plastic strip. then a pair of side plates, cut to shape added.
I then added the wiper arm base plates, made up the wiper blades from a plastic strip, added the arm, slightly bent at the top to meet the mounting plate and bonded in situ to the wiper blade.
Once this had dried, i added the angled front cover plate to complete.

I am, as im typing,I'm  making up the washer pipework and jets, once complete, I will post that too.

[gregk9]

Ive made up the front screen washer pipework. I used some 0.8mm brass rod, as its easy to bend to shape, plus adding the jet pieces is a simple solder joint.





Next task was to make up the main aerial support legs. I wanted to make it so I can remove the aerials themselves, simply to ease transport of the boat, as they do stand high above the main body and too easily caught on things.
I first drilled out the centre of the aerial bases, to accept a small angles piece of brass rod. This was bent so its upper end, slides inside the hollow plastic rod used for the lower section of the aerials.
the cross pieces of the supports are again plastic rod, but i used a small piece of brass tube , as the support sleeve for the aerial and wrapped a piece of brass rod around the outside and soldered to it for strength. Leaving a couple of "legs" of brass rod, to slide inside the hollow support legs

[gregk9]

I have finally recieved delivery of the searchlights and spotlamps for the boat, so I have installed the stern lamp to the mast assembly, which now allows me to close off the wiring box, behind the radar mount.






I have also constructed the emergency vhf aerial mount, which sits inbetween the engine covers. I made the base from a plasticard "sandwich" to get the right thickness for the base and once the glue had dried, I angled the end faces.
The aerial is a couple of pieces of hollow plastruct tube, one slid inside the other and the end capped with a piece of plasticard and trimmed to shape.

[gregk9]

Ive fitted the two forward spotlamps today. i firstly added some heatshrink tubing over the cables, to replicate the black covering and applied a little heat to shrink it down to size. I then slid a small piece of plastic  tube over the cable and added a smaller "ring" to make the connector fitting, which fits on to the roof,




Ive also added similar cable fittings to the searchlights, as I have decided to run this version with the searchlights on their mountings and ready for use, not stowed away, that way, making the boat more illuminated for evening/dusk sailing.