Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[gregk9]

Heres another couple of photo's which now hopefully, put the stern cabin door into perspective a little better.
i've now also put a bit of base paint in a few areas, especially where some other items will be fitted, just to ensure there is "orange" paint behind, some inaccessible areas after fitting.

[montessa315]

Hi Greg
Following the build with great interest as I've just aquired the same boat from MBD. How close to the top of the hull have you positioned the wooden framing?
PJ

[gregk9]

I have put the wood framwork at the top edge level of the hull , minus 1.5mm [thickness of deck ply] "as supplied" as mine when it came through "seemed" to of been sanded to correct profile. So my deck [once attached will sit directly on top of the wood frame and take it to the hull edge. the toe boards will be added at a much later stage.

Incidentally, did your hull come complete with the rear "side" step boards? as mine were missing out of the "mould" as Ive later found out from followers of the build, so Ive got to "add" these to mine, same goes for the stern mounted trim tabs, there is no "bulge" on the stern for their mountings either.

[montessa315]

Hi Greg, thanks for the info. Not quite sure what you mean by rear side step boards but looking at your photos and comparing to my hull they are identical. The same goes for the trim tab bulge.

Keep posting the pics and tips - knifing putty works a treat.

PJ

[gregk9]

If you have a good look at the plans you were given with the hull, plus look at the plans RNLI can supply [WELL worth the order - pm me for details if you have not ordered already], you will see that where the forward "rib" which flows down from the bows [along each side of the hull] comes to an abrupt end. This is "supposed" to run continually, almost to the stern, and then act as a "tread step" for persons climbing aboard when in the water.
You will also need to "add" some additional support plate on the lower stern, to take the supports for the trim tabs, plus seems to be a bit of an "angled lip around the stern prop tunnel exits too.
I will show more details as I get this far, as I had omitted these items, "presuming" they were not there, but only after a keen spotting forum member noticed mine were missing , he kindly forwarded details and photo's to assist me in retro fitting on mine.

[stubbsy]

if i remember correctly the first 10 merseys had aluminum hulls then later they started to use fibre reinforced composite, dont know if this would account for the slight difference in design,

you are making great progress, hopefully soon i will have most of the bits to start my severn

stubbsy

[Number 6]

Looking great, not hanging around on the build! All but one of the first 12 Merseys had aluminium hulls, first FRC composite hull was 12-11 Lifetime Care built 1989. All boats from 12-12 Marine Engineer built in 1991 had FRC hulls. Some pics I took of Hastings Mersey 12-002 Sealink Endeavour if of any use, Dave.  

PS. I guess you've seen Mike Pendlebury's (gribeauval) monster Mersey build blog? http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Mike_Pendlebury/1ndex.htm

[gregk9]

Thanks for the comments and pictures, all pics are always appreciated!
I am not 100% sure "IF" the missing items are from the model hull design mould and "could" of been moulded upon the "early" hull profile, i;m unsure on that, but being as I'm trying to model 12-26, barmouth Lifeboat, suppose that puts me in the "later class" [ha ha].

Anyway, onwards and a little upwards. After much discussion over the past couple of days, the "what motor" issue is still simmering, as the "supplied propellers" at 55mm  were recommended for brushless motors and not "brushed" as I have found out. So I now have 2 options if I wish to remain with good old ever faithful brushed. I fit 700 bb turbo's and go for smaller 45mm props, or go 900 motors and fit 50mm jobby's.  Graupner 900's and not in stock anywhere in the Uk or Europe, believe mem, ive tried, even graupner cannot give a delivery date. But, Andy at Models By design recommened an ebay seller who can supply 900 type motors at a much cheaper rate and has stock too!, so this coupled with a pair of 12v nicad sticks will become my powerplant!
Action Electronics have already supplied all the necessary drive gear, so this is the way I will go.
Due to the "tunnel prop" design, I have also been strongly recommended to "tank steer" with the motors as the rudders [apparently] are as muich use as a chocolate teapot, even on the full size brutes. Fortunately the Action P94 does have a program suitable for this", so will maybe give it a try, but I will be linking the rudders up to a servo "as well as", not wanting to give up too soon on a job.

Right. Todays little skirmish with the lifeboat. Ive cut out the 3 forward hatch cover panels and inserted a "edge liner" to act as the waterproof lip/hatch edge. I firstly marked out the hatch positions, then for "ease" found a 5p piece gives a nice radius to the corners. I then followed by cutting out the corners with a 20mm drill cutter, I used one i was given free with a set of reversing sensors for my car bumper, so yes, some things do come in handy for all sorts of jobs!

I then cut some strips 10mm deep out of 0.5mm plasticard to act as the coaming edges, these were temporarily held in place with a few drops of superglue, then bonded in with stabilit express to fully fix in place. Once this is fully dry, i can then sand the top [pouter] lip edge flat, to take the hatch covers at a later stage in the build.

this now also allows me to make up some square locker boxes to attach from the underside, to go under these covers. What i will do however, is fit out one with its stock of ropes etc, the other 2 will contain switch panels for ease of operation of the boat, once at poolside. I will use 2 hatches for the switches, it saves my elephants paws from hitting too many switches at once !!!

[Number 6]

Hi there Greg, Barmouth's Mersey Moira Barrie definitely has same shape rear hull as the Dungeness boat, got big plates on hull by where trim tabs are fixed though, it's the one I built too! I've been looking for my disc with photos of her on but can't find it. I'll carry on looking tomorrow. Found this picture of her online though, Dave.  

[gregk9]

Thanks for the pics dave.
What Ive decided to do is make up some styrene plates of correct size to attach to the stern, make up the additional "strengthening plates" that fit either side of the keel, where the "haul" ropes attach and make up the prop tunnel extensions, make up the base plates for the "step rails" down each side of the hull. THEN attack the hull, abrade off the paint where these will fit, buff off the rear face of the styrene so its got a nice rough finish and attach all these "add ons" with stabilit, then thats all the hull mods done in one go so to speak. All that is left to then do is mount the propeller shafts, but will make up some styrene "blanks" to take the place of the props whilst the bonding dries and I know just the thing to use to get those tunnel profiles reasonably accurately............. more later on this little DIY crossover item of kit !

It should make it easier that way, then ive only got to repaint the "white" again, fortunately all the reworking is in this area, so at least i havent wasted my time with the upper blue coat. That only needs its correct colour "top coat", once the rest is complete on the hull.

[gregk9]

A bit more "scratchbuilding" today, Ive made up a couple of "mirror" identical components which sit either side in the stern bridge area. The tube was cut from some 12mm wood dowel and the box units from styrene sheet. i first drilled a pilot hole, then "hand reamed" the hole to its correct size, so as not to distort or tear the plastic. The boxes were then built up and once dry, the wood dowel pushed through to its correct position and angle. I then cut some circular discs out of styrene using a "compass cutter" for ease and simplicity and glued a disc to both ends of the wood dowel to replicate the flanges.
Next job was to paint the "inner edges" before bonding in place, as due to their positions, there is a lot of area you won't be able to get to once fitted and someone is bound to notice the lack of paint!
I then made the angle brackets to hold the box to the side panels. These again were marked out on styrene sheet, the hole drilled/reamed and then cut from the sheet, so as not to rip or tear the plastic again, plus its much easier to drill a "full hole" than it is to file a half circle later.
I then added these to the boxes and whilst the glue was still wet, held the boxes to their mounting positions, so the brackets take up the correct angle to enable the "box" to sit vertical. Once in correct angle, I then set down on the bench to dry, finally bonding in place with revell poly cement.

[gregk9]

Right, todays task has been to put right a few things missing off the hull supplied by models by design, that i did not spot untill viewing some pictures kindly sent to me by a fellow forum member.
1/ Side step rails down both sides of the hull
2/ stern rudder extensions
3/ trim tab mount plates.

yes, I should of checked all the necessary documentation first, but I tried my best with the info at hand, namely the vague plans supplied by MBD and the plans from RNLi, although very good and detailled, unfortunately not being 3 dimensional its often quite difficult to see things "square on", so can get missed out in the transposition so to speak.

Ah well, time to attack the painted hull with a rough abrasive pad and draw it down to base glass fibre again. This I tried to limit as best possible to a strip down both sides of the hull, wide enough to take the base plate for the step rail. a couple of sections on the stern to take the trim tab base plates, then around the rear of the prop tunnels to take the base plates of the rudder extension shields.

I firstly roughed up the reverse side of the styrene to be used, so the stabilit express will grip and bond both together, holding with masking tape untill touch dry, about 15 minutes. I then removes the tape and gently removed the excess glue that had oozed out with the tip of a small screwdriver blade. Well it saves having to sand it off later.
Once this had dried for about an hour I was then able to bond on the remaining bits of plastic strip to complete the tasks set.

[gregk9]

Whilst waiting for the knifing putty to dry on the , er "minor alterations" carried out on the hull, I have added the propeller shat braces to the propeller end. Looking at all the info i have, it seemed the easiest thing to do was cut a strip of 5mm wide brass sheet, mark its centre point, then wrap around the propeller tube, clamp it and solder it to the tube. Then once cooled off, I carefully cut 3/4 of the way through the brass strip [from the rear face] then angled the arms backwards [or towards the bows looking side on to the boat], then applied solder to this cut point to firmly affix.  So now the shafts have their stern supports, ready for installation in the hull. I have also recieved today the smaller propellers, to match the 900 series motors im going to use [50mm].
So as you can appreciate, their is a "big moment" due shortly as the power train is set in to the hull.





The other job ive also done is to add the rudder trims to the base of the rudders. These are simply flat pieces of brass sheet, soldered in place, but once painted should "look the part".

[gregk9]

I have now had chance to add the missing items from my hull. Items you would of presumed would of been moulded on from the onset, but being as the "mould" is currently "third hand", things have obviously been removed to make the moulding process easier and quicker and a lot less pieces to the mould "box", so less detailling can be accomodated for.

the side step rails, trim tab bases and tunnel end flanges are now fitted and filled smooth where appropriate.







next step was to apply some grey primer, I prefer to use grey as any minor blemishes show up easier and can be better "spotted" in grey, whereas white primer can loose pit holes, untill you spray a darker colour on top that is!









I have now applied the knifing putty to fill the few little areas stil needing a bit of attention.

[montessa315]

Hi Greg,What did you make the spray rail step from?

[gregk9]

I used some 12mm wide 0.5mm thick  styrene strip for the base and some 5mmx 3mm styrene "plastruct" for the actual step board.
I bonded the styrene to the hull with stabilit express, after first sanding the back face of the styrene, otherwise it simply peels off.

[Number 6]

I used same on mine Greg. It's certainly coming on well, much quicker than my Mersey build! Dave. 

[gregk9]

I didn't use "T" section rail, as the hull sides are not fully vertical, so best to lay on the base plate first, then add the step rail to get the angle right and even.
Same goes for the stern "tunnel extension"  "L" sections, these again are not vertical or at 90 degrees to each other, so best to set the base plates on first, then get the other half of the "L" shape to sit parallel with the roof of the  prop tunnel.
Plastic weld is best to ensure a full bond between the plastics/styrene as afterall, these items are in the water and the odd accidental knock may be likely i its lifetime, even if not your own fault.

[gregk9]

WHilst between coats of primer on the hull, Ive doen some more work on the propeller shafts and have vuilt up the support hubs, just behind the propeller. I was wondering what to use to make these up when I spyed some epoxy putty pellets hanging up on my wall hooks. Simply unwrap, roll in your palms untill mixed, then each pellet was just enough to mould the support hubs to their shape.
Give it an hour to dry and ready to sand to finish.




I have alos took a grinder disc to the motor shafts and prop shafts and ground a "flat" to take the coupling grub screws, to reduce risk of slippage once in situ.

[gregk9]

FInally got the hull back to "white primer" stage again, so once this has fully cured, i can give it a final flatting and spray the lower white gloss on first, before adding the blue later.








So.............. whilst waiting for the pain to dry, ive been continuing with the upper cabin assembly.
I have marked out and pre drilled out the engine ventilator panels, which will have outer covers made up, complete with louvered grilles. the base plates for the vents just forward of the main grilles have been bonded on and the positions of the deck lights, marked to show through the paintwork, for adding later.
I have marked and cut out the fire hydrant access.





Ive also made up the initial framework for the flying bridge screen panel.


I have also cut out and made up the forward access doors, these have had a 3mm deep lip edge added to act as water seals and the main hinges also bonded on at this stage, so have plenty of time to dry before drilling the hinge pin holes.

[gregk9]

for  a 3D pictorial sketch of a Mersey CLass, please follow this link.

http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/preview.aspx?modelcode=29033

[gregk9]

todays little "tester" has been to add the pivot hinges to the access hatches. I did not want to simply bond/glue the pivot posts to the top of the deck, as it would be a little bit too weak in strength, so decided to use a mini reaming drill bit in my mini drill and cut slots to allow some plastic strip to drop through and be bonded more securely from underneath. So I first marked the top deck with a knife blade, so not to mark it too much, then ground out the slots, test fitting the plastic strip untill a tight fit was obtained. I then drilled a 2mm hole through the hatch hinge bars and also in the tops of the hinge post strips. I also drilled a second hole in the opposite end of the plastic strip, so when the glue was applied, it would run through the hole, making a stronger bond and prevent the strip from pulling out. you could put a small piece of plastic rod through these holes , just as you would a "security post" on your driveway, but allowing the glue to run through will suffice here.
I then threaded the pivot posts on to the 2mm rod and attached to the hatch hinges, then set in place through the precut slots. once in correct alignment i applied some stabilit express to the underside around the posts, ensuring the glue ran through the drill holes. Once dry the temporary tape was removed and the hinges checked for operation.
YEs, I will add brass springs later, but not untill the painting is complete. the hatch clips will be added and also the securing method, as I am not going to use fully working turn clips, as these will be used frequently, so dont want to risk failure.

[gregk9]

I have made up the side engine ventilator panels. I was originally going to "cheat" and go buy some resin cast jobbies, buthad a couple of hours to spare, so made my own up out of styrene.
I first made up the outer frames from 0.5mm thick 9mm wide strip, cut from a sheet.
Then by using some thinner [2.5mm wide] strip, I used this to make the grille louvres, carefully trimming the ends to make them a good fit, but not overly long that it causes them to bend and touch each other.
Once fully dry, i sanded the corners down a bit where the glue had dried, then marked out a drill line for the mounting bolts. I decided to replicate the mounting bolts with some little stubby cut pieces of styrene rod [1mm]. So after drilling a series of equally spaced holes around the frame, the "rod bits" were then inerted using a pair of tweesers and bonded in place with a dab of glue on the back of the frame.

[gregk9]

Adding now to the "plastic bolts" idea, I have drilled and "bolted" the engine covers. I used a plasticard template to cut the bolts to the same length, rather than just rely upon resting the plastic rod against a ruler and also used another "spacer template" to evenly space the drill holes around the drill line on the covers. I drilled rigth through the glass fibre so the plastic rod gets as much "purchase" as possible, so not to be easily knocked out [or off].  Once drilling complete, I placed some masking tape on the underside, to "hold" the glue in situ whilst it dried. I then proceeded to carefully place the plastic rods in to their respective holes, then adding a drop of superglue to bond them in.

I will leave these to dry for a couple of days before runing a sander over the bolt heads to get a nice even "level", as due to the unevern underside of the glass, its impossible to get all the plastic rods the same length, not unless you cut each piece seperately. Now that would be really time consuming !

[gregk9]

Sorry no posts for a few days, but had things "under construction", so needed to complete it, before actually posting any details.

Right. Time is moving on and the need for a boat stand has dawned. BUT, I dont just need a boat stand, I need to be able to move the boat about, carry it out to my car, then transport it to the pool to sail [forward thinking !].

So why not make something that all fits together and does all you need?

So first made a simple rectangualr wooden cradle with 4 vertical uprights, from which I suspended some 20mm wide webbing straps. These easily contour to the underside shape of the hull [or any hull you put in the cradle].

now how to carry it?
I decided to wheel this about after finding a "cheap" set of wheels on good old ebay!
A folding Golf trolley.
It has a nice wide wheelbase, for stability and ease of towing behind you as you walk to the sailing pool.
It folds easily to go in your motor.
Even the wheels clip off.
Its light enough not to strain your back.

So with a simple addition of a couple of shaped wooden blocks, to "sit" where the "golf bag" would, the original web straps then hold the boat stand to the trolley and secure enough not to loose the boat.

Its way cheaper than buying wheels, axles, bit of alloy and trying your hardest to make a wheeled trolley strong enough to take a boat, but them finding out its so heavy its difficult to handle when moving over a loose gravel path.

HAve a look at the pictures and see how easy a conversion they really are. 

I'mm hooked on the idea and will be adapting my other boat cradles to drop on the trolley for moving about.














And just to prove how secure things can get. I stodd the trolley up on its base stand.  And thats with only a single strap round the boat. Not its correct straps which will be custom made [by me] once the boat is complete enough to find the best places to run the straps over without damaging the deck railing etc.