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Author Topic: Working with Styrene  (Read 10793 times)

kiwimodeller

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Working with Styrene
« on: September 29, 2011, 10:59:41 am »

Hi, can someone please point me to any posts about working with Styrene sheet.I have built several boats with a fiberglass hull and light ply cabins, decking etc but I have now started on a sternwheel paddler which has a relatively narrow and shallow hull. As it has two levels of fairly tall decks I will need to keep the superstructure pretty light and was thinking of trying Styrene. I have seen it advertised in several thicknesses from .5 to 2.5mm but have no idea which I should use. There are some fairly small cabins but mostly it is an open upper deck with a roof over it. I understand Styrene can be joined by disolving it with a solvent but would also like to read up on what to use and how to do it. All help appreciated. Thanks, Ian.
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DickyD

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2011, 11:11:32 am »

STYRENE PLASTIC
Styrene sheet or more commonly called plasticard is available in different thickness. The advantage of plastic
over wood is that it has a smooth finish that requires no filling (other than on joints) to give a non-grainy finish.
With many vessels in steel, wood with a grain does not look right. Plastic does not splinter and smooth holes can
be drilled.  
Before applying a primer or paint, it is always best to flat off a shiny surface. 800 - 1200 grit Wet or Dry works
very well, especially if you wet it first and work with a gentle, circular motion.  
Printed Plastic: Using a steel rule, lightly score  the material with several
strokes. Place your thumbnails either side of the score, and with your
fingernails on the underside, raise this line up towards you. This will cause the
plastic to fracture along the score line and then simply bend away from you
and the part will snap out.  
Complex shapes can easily be 'chased' along all pre-scored lines. Cut well
outside the marked outline of a curved component, then file or sand back to the
correct profile. If a raised ‘burr’ is left along the cut edge it can be removed by dragging a Stanley blade along
that edge.
Bending Plastic: Place the area to be bent in hot water and gently bend.
Alternatively, place the area over the edge of the  bench and run it back and
forth. If you have to curve strips of plastic along their length, hold between
finger and thumb at the centre, pull your hands apart bending down as you pull
- this will curve the strip to a gentle radius.
Drilling Holes in Plastic: Styrene does not like heat and a power tool that runs fast generates heat. It is advisable
to use a hand drill or a slow power drill.
  
Assembling & Gluing Plastic: Assemblies can be made easy if the
parts are held together and built up using 4-5mm strips of masking tape. This will ensure close tight joints and
most of all, allow you to stand back and check for accuracy before applying the glue.  
  
The best type of glue is liquid polystyrene glue of which there are several
brands available. Mek is one.This is applied either with a bottle cap brush supplied or a
small paintbrush. Simply brush along the inside of the joint and the liquid glue
will 'capillary' along a good fitting joint. Keep the glue away from taped areas.
After a few minutes the tape is removed and the joint can be re-glued on the
outside. A note of caution: avoid using excess adhesive - it works by dissolving
the plastic and too much will create deformation. This glue will evaporate
quickly if uncapped.  
   If a joint looks stepped or untidy, it can be fettled, sanded and scraped clean (with a Stanley blade) after a few
hours when the glue has thoroughly dried. If done well the joint is almost invisible! Practice on scrap plastic in
order to perfect your own technique. When gluing the deck to plastic deck supports, always rough the surface of
the plastic to give it a key.  

http://www.modelslipway.com/Catalogues/tips%20n%20tricks.pdf
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kiwimodeller

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2011, 10:34:08 am »

Great, thanks for that Dicky, exactly the sort of help I needed. Any tips on what thickness to use for what sort of job, especially freestanding cabins? Thanks, Ian.
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DickyD

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2011, 11:48:26 am »

Normally, depending on the size of the model I use 1.5mm for superstructure and 2.0mm for decks and roofs. :-))

You can use triangles of styrene to reinforce and square up corners.
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Big Ada

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2011, 05:08:44 pm »

And, did you know that the Clear Plastic boxes that Ferrero Rocher Chocolates come in are compatable with Styrene and will weld with the same Solvent.

Len.
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tony52

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2011, 08:11:42 pm »

Have you thought about the late  Richard Webb's book? - Model Boats with Styrene - currently on offer from Traplet.

http://shop.traplet.com/product.aspx?c=300
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j22mdr

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2012, 06:22:25 am »

1.5 - 2.0mm plasticard is very good to use i build quite alot of models with this
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Big Ada

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2012, 03:57:41 pm »

Another source of free styrene is Ice Cream tubs ( yes you pay for the Ice Cream! ).  :-)).

Len.
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nemesis

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2012, 08:02:16 pm »

Some of the members have trouble with deforming plastic caused by the heat in Sydney OZ, that they have reverted back to Ply. So check what your ambient temp is in the summer before you start building, Nemesis
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2012, 09:52:54 pm »

Quote
Some of the members have trouble with deforming plastic caused by the heat in Sydney OZ, that they have reverted back to Ply. So check what your ambient temp is in the summer before you start building, Nemesis

A very good point and why I don't like plasticard fot structural components on my models. Too much thermal expansion for my liking!

Colin
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Subculture

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2012, 02:10:44 pm »

You can epoxy glass (G10) sheet in very thin thicknesses e.g. 0.25 or 0.5mm.

It's much stronger than Plasticard, but you can still cut it with shears or strong scissors and you can join it together with epoxy resin or glue for close to indestructible decks and superstructures.

It tends to be more expensive than plasticard, but if you stump up the cash for a large sheet, the price differential narrows down.
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balders

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2012, 03:35:06 pm »

Take a look at modelslipway.com. From the home page click on "tips and tricks" and this will give you a comprehensive guide to the use of plasticard.Dickie D has already given you a taster of the content but you will find the full article therein.

The Richard Webb book mentioned is good and traplet also produced a video by him demonstring his techniques.Whether this is available on dvd I could'nt say but I would be willing to let you loan my video if you are able to play it.

Regards Andrew
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balders

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2012, 03:42:26 pm »

Hi Ian,
         What a **** I am.Just seen where you are posting from so perhaps not bother sending the video!

                                                                                                                                                  Cheers Andy.
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DickyD

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2012, 04:10:52 pm »

Take a look at modelslipway.com. From the home page click on "tips and tricks" and this will give you a comprehensive guide to the use of plasticard.Dickie D has already given you a taster of the content but you will find the full article therein.

The Richard Webb book mentioned is good and traplet also produced a video by him demonstring his techniques.Whether this is available on dvd I could'nt say but I would be willing to let you loan my video if you are able to play it.

Regards Andrew
See reply 1. :-))
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kiwimodeller

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2012, 08:51:05 am »

Thanks for all the great advice. I have had to put the build to one side at the moment to finish a couple that will bring in some cash for the modelling funds but I am getting more and more keen to try out the plasticard superstructure. The Model Slipway page is certainly a resource worth bookmarking. Cheers, Ian.
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Talisman

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Re: Working with Styrene
« Reply #15 on: January 30, 2012, 12:52:56 am »

Hi, can someone please point me to any posts about working with Styrene sheet.I have built several boats with a fiberglass hull and light ply cabins, decking etc but I have now started on a sternwheel paddler which has a relatively narrow and shallow hull. As it has two levels of fairly tall decks I will need to keep the superstructure pretty light and was thinking of trying Styrene. I have seen it advertised in several thicknesses from .5 to 2.5mm but have no idea which I should use. There are some fairly small cabins but mostly it is an open upper deck with a roof over it. I understand Styrene can be joined by disolving it with a solvent but would also like to read up on what to use and how to do it. All help appreciated. Thanks, Ian.

I'm surprised you didn't ask on Paddle Ducks, I'm  sure they could have helped.
Not to worry..
Perhaps scale will govern size / thickness?

Yes, Plasticard is soother than Ply but does ply conform to the shape?

Its a big subject which right now i don't really have the willingness to answer fully so anything else you can ask me directly.
Regards
Kim

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