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[Dan.Lord]

Hi all, I've just taken delivery of this kit, & thought I'd start a build diary incase anyone's interested.
I've not built a Deans kit before, so a learning curve for myself.
The kit comes with one fullsize plan, with colour photo's of their model to help with construction, & a full set of instructions.
The hull is fibreglass, with deck, superstructure turrets etc being styrene & vac formings. The hull is nice & clean moulding, without pin oles etc, so pleased there.
The fittings are either Resin or white metal castings & look to be of good quality, & also come in a nice tray to keep them safe.

I'll post some pics as & when I make any progress, & hope the build goes ok 
Cheers Dan.

[Martin (Admin)]

I'd start a build diary incase anyone's interested.

       

[jimmy2310]

And it's a yes from me too.

Jimmy

[John W E]

hi thats a yes from me as well

aye
john

[Dan.Lord]

Hi all, well I'll do my best & try not to dissapoint you all    Nice pic there Bluebird. I went through the "Those in Peril" film today, & got a few, (or a lot really) Screen Captures to help with the detailing.
I've decided to make it in the style of the film, so will have to get a few extra parts for detailing like the sandbag thingys & a 20mm cannon for the stern etc, but these should be easy to get, there's a site, can't remember the name but have it somewhere that does lots of fittings & crew etc, so willl be putting an order in next pay day !!!!

As the hulls smooth fibreglass, & the originals wood, I thought I'd have a go at sticking Mahogany strip on to simulate the planking, I really like the finish on Bluebirds superb build. I did this with my Billings Calypso to add detail, & it worked a treat, so keep fingers crossed this'll work too.
Here's a couple of pics of the real boat, you can just about make out the planks on the hull, & very clearly on the deck.
Can allways sand it off if no good

[howyson]

Hi Dan

Looks like a very nice kit. Looking forward to following the progress.

Howard

[Dan.Lord]

Well made a start. Firstly I built a stand using the templates suppiled, then on to the launch. I had to sand down the hull edge, to get an even line around the top edge. this was only a few mm's so didn't take long. I was very pleased with the overall quality of the hull, a very clean moulding, with well marked ares to drill out & sand etc, nice one !!
Once the hull was sanded, the next job was to fit the prop shafts & "A" frame thingys, again nicely marked out where to drill, file, sand etc. Next The rudders were fitted, brass tubes & white metal rudders with steel shafts pre fitted.
I brought two motors with he kit, & couplings, so they fitted nicely in the vac formed motor mounts that were supplied. Once everything was test fitted these were glued in with two part epoxy glue, & plastic metal for strength. The motors will be held in with cable ties etc.
The kit comes with white metal screws, which will do whilst building, but I'll replace them with brass ones at the end as they finish off the boat nicely.
The next step was to fit the balsa strip around the inside edge of the hull to act as a step for the deck to sit on. Due to the shape of the hull the first strip had to be sanded to get the shape near to the hull, so it would sit level. I laid a steel rule across the deck & offered the strip up to it to get it level, & then cyno glued it in place, useing smaller pieces at the bow to allow for the curve. Oncwe this was done a second strip was glued all around. I filled the smalll / large gape between the hull & balsa with some Upol C body filler, as this sands easily & very smooth.
Next I have to cut out the deck & fit some support beams across the hull before attaching the deck. More to follow Cheers Dan.

[brianB6]

I am interested in what size the props are.
I have installed 2 JP 480's in my Armidale Patrol Boat which with 30 mm. 3 blade, plastic props draw about 6 amps each, in the bath.
Larger props push the current up quite considerably.
Have you tried measuring the current and what batteries are you thinking of using?

[Shipmate60]

Are they White Metal Props?

Bob

[DickyD]

Are they White Metal Props?

Bob

Thats what he said Bob, says hes going to change them to brass later.

[RaaArtyGunner]

Seem to recollect, some where that white metal is heavy and soft hence why its used for figures.

So question is, is it easier to cast/make props with than brass.

Wouldn't "plastic' have been a better initial option.

Or have I misunderstood the materials and their properties ie Brass V Whitemetal??

[barriew]

I don't know why the UK manufacturers include white metal props. They are heavy, don't usually run true and I suspect are not hydro-dynamically efficient. I guess they are quite cheap to cast along with the other fittings

I have a large collection discarded from various kits

Barrie

[Scribe]

....a small word of warning. We have built two Deans Marine kits and had problems with the deck warping when the boat is in strong sunlight, had to keep re-gluing it in parts. Decided to replace the deck with one eighth balsa, strengthened and waterproofed with aircraft fuel sealer. Since then no problems.
Apart from that most satisfied with the rest of the kit....

[deadbeat]

I don't know why the UK manufacturers include white metal props. They are heavy, don't usually run true and I suspect are not hydro-dynamically efficient. I guess they are quite cheap to cast along with the other fittings

I have a large collection discarded from various kits

Barrie

When I built my Dean's HMS Nubian, the casting of the prop was so poor it was breaking away from the threaded boss inside, when I challenged Deans on this (I had no intention of using it as I prefer Brass props) they were quite shirty about it saying that modellers might want it for a static version of the model, that I thought was ironic from a company specialising in R/C models. I was also 'amused' because if you wanted Nubian as static model they had not supplied an accurate prop anyway! There are some fantastic brass props out there so dump the Dean's props.

[Scribe]

....just to confirm, we also dumped the supplied cast ones and bought brass

[Dan.Lord]

The ,props are 30mm, as for power useage, I've not got that far as yet  In the instructions it says use 1 or 2 10 Amp esc's, & 6.7.2v batteries, I'll go for a racing car type pack, as they look to be the only type that'll fit, & need to keep the weight down, to get the speed. Amps the motors use, again no idea, how do you check ?
White metal props are not very nice, will deffinately be replacing them with brass ones, these were only used to help with rudder placement etc, to make sure the clearence was ok. I'l be replacing some of the fittings, as they arn't that great.
On the deck front, I'll be putting several cross beams in & useing gel cyno to give the deck a good purchase, so hopefully (famous last words) warping won't be an issue 
Still waiting on the strip wood to cover the hull to arrive, over 2 weeks now  An email required one thinks 
Enjoyed the build so far, not looking forward to the turrets though  a steady hand will be needed I think. Cheers Dan.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

With regard to Amps used by motors, a lot of folks tend to fit a fuse rated at 5 amps LESS than the speed controller rating.  For an accurate reading however, you really need an ammeter wired in series with the motor lead and run it in water to find out the reading.  For Two motors then double the current drawn.

Hope this helps

Ken

[Dan.Lord]

With regard to Amps used by motors, a lot of folks tend to fit a fuse rated at 5 amps LESS than the speed controller rating.  For an accurate reading however, you really need an ammeter wired in series with the motor lead and run it in water to find out the reading.  For Two motors then double the current drawn.

Hope this helps

Ken

Cheers Ken,  I have a multi meter somewhere, just hope I can suss out how to work it 
Regards Dan.

[Dan.Lord]

Hi All, just a quick update, cut deck to shape, made from 1mm abs sheet. Cut & snapped it, came off pretty well. Positions for the deck beams are marked on the deck, so I've made marks on the hull, so I know where to fit them. Ramin is supplied for this.... next job 
On a good note, got an e mail saying Mahogany strip was posted today, before e mail asking where abouts was sent. Nice one 
Cheers Dan.

[Dan.Lord]

Hi all, fitted the deck beams, & glued the deck in place useing superglue gel. Given it plenty of weight to secure it. Seems to fit quite well. I hope so anyway 

[mikearace]

Nice

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Hi Dan

I would tend to 'beef up' your joint around the deck as superglue might become brittle and suffer when subjected to water. I usually run a slither of epoxy resin around the inside of the joint with my finger to strengthen it. It will be out of sight so no harm done.

regards

Ken

[Dan.Lord]

Hi Ken, yes thats a good idea, I've got some of that two part stuff I'll run it around the inside edge. Also add some filler around the outside to seal it too. Cheers Dan.

[DickyD]

Dan the easiest way to seal the deck joint is as Ken says, with two part epoxy resin.

If you thin down the resin with a drop of meths [minute amount only] and then pour it into the hull. Hold the hull upside down and manouvre it so the resin runs round the joint.

Doing it this way it is best to fill any gaps on the outside with P38 first.

Hope this is clear enough.

[Dan.Lord]

Ha ha Cheers Dicky, clear as mud 
I think I have some resin left over from my Dalek building days. Could you use thinners instead of Meths as I don't think I have any 
Gonna sand down the edge now & add some pug here & there. Cheers Dan.