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Author Topic: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939  (Read 42881 times)

Pondweed

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #125 on: November 18, 2013, 11:46:07 AM »

Thanks chaps.. will look at the fly-tieing line.

The dental floss idea: that sounds similar to PTFE tape plumbers use. That goes 'strandy' when it's abused.


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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #126 on: November 18, 2013, 01:50:02 PM »

hi ya there
 
With regard rigging threads; I use several items - some are from Billings threads and I also use a thread which I have from my dad which he used to use for whipping the loops onto fishing rods with - I am not sure what type of thread it is but it's got a 'silky wax' feel to it and it doesnt take the superglue too well.  I also use very fine copper wire on certain parts of my builds, such as for crane wires and things but I have just sent off for some black fishing line and I am going to try that as well.   I used to use the old beeswax over the normal thread trick (to prevent the hairs ont thread as well) anyway, apart from that....
 
the Exeter build; I have finished the Carley floats and mounted them and now I am on making the boat booms which protude from the side of the ship next to the bridge.
 
aye
John
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dreadnought72

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #127 on: November 18, 2013, 02:36:03 PM »

Stunning build, John: I'm loving every minute.  :-))

Andy
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mikearace

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #128 on: November 18, 2013, 02:47:26 PM »

Just fantastic build.  Look forward to each update.
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Rottweiler

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #129 on: November 18, 2013, 02:51:44 PM »

A very fitting tribute to the real thing.Superb.
Mick F
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bill jardine

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #130 on: November 18, 2013, 05:06:43 PM »

Absolutely stunning - a really informative build read, and what a piece of work!
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Rottweiler

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #131 on: November 18, 2013, 05:16:36 PM »

hi ya there
 
With regard rigging threads; I use several items - some are from Billings threads and I also use a thread which I have from my dad which he used to use for whipping the loops onto fishing rods with - I am not sure what type of thread it is but it's got a 'silky wax' feel to it and it doesnt take the superglue too well.  I also use very fine copper wire on certain parts of my builds, such as for crane wires and things but I have just sent off for some black fishing line and I am going to try that as well.   I used to use the old beeswax over the normal thread trick (to prevent the hairs ont thread as well) anyway, apart from that....
 
the Exeter build; I have finished the Carley floats and mounted them and now I am on making the boat booms which protude from the side of the ship next to the bridge.
 
aye
John


Whipping thread is obtainable in many colours from fishing tackle shops,usually on a cotton reel or a card.When using it on a rod,it is usually sealed with a clear cellulose dope.B e warned that the colours do "bleed" on the cheaper threads. Gudbrod, used to be a very good make
Mick F
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #132 on: November 23, 2013, 03:29:02 PM »

Hi all, just a quick update.
I have now begun fitting the railings; and I am using John Haynes' photo etched stachions at 1:96 scale; for the upper works and I am using James Laing stanchions for around the main decks.  The reason for the difference (i.e. using the 2) is that James Laing stanchions are slightly thicker/stronger and can take a little bit of knocking which generally happens around the main deck - whereas John Haynes' stanchions are very fine and dont take much bending.  (Just from experience :-)  )  I am also using for the upper works 0.45 mm brass rod - that is to go with John Haynes fittings and for the railings on the main decks I am using tinned copper wire brought from Ebay  %%  what I will do is I will cut off about 18 inches of wire and stretch it between pliers.   The wire is 22 swg guage and easily soldered and also I will put a picture on off the threads which I have obtained to do the main mast rigging.  Also the fishing line.
aye
john
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #133 on: November 23, 2013, 03:30:17 PM »

 :-)) cheers lads for the kind comments  :-))
 
aye
John
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Seaspray

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #134 on: November 23, 2013, 04:21:14 PM »

 As ever stunning work.
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chipchase

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #135 on: November 23, 2013, 04:51:28 PM »

Your making a cracking job of her John pleased your feeling better; :-)) Iím trying to get motivated but itís taking some doing.   

John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #136 on: November 26, 2013, 08:14:46 PM »

Hi All
I have been asked how I fit the railings and stanchions i.e. what methods I use.
I use several methods - depending on the particular shape/where the railings are going to be fitted.
 
When I am fitting the railings around the outside of the ship; I tend to mark the spacings of the stanchions onto the deck and then predrill all of the holes by hand, not with a machine, but with a jewellers drill.   I then make up a small plywood jig to the correct height of the stanchions and beginning at the middle of hull approx. and working from the centre out to either the bow or stern place each stanchion into the predrilled holes but not gluing them.   Then I fit the top rail in first and with this in position through all of the stanchions; with my plywood jig, I set the height of the rail all the way along.
 
Then with a dab of superglue on a pin, I will then apply it to where the stanchion meets the deck on each rail, holding the rail firmly.
 
When the glue has dried, I can rectify any of the stanchions which are not sitting vertical.   When I am happy I will put the 2nd rail and then the 3rd rail in through the stanchions.
 
When I have completed the first half I go to the 2nd half of the hull.
....
 
The 2nd method I use - is where say we have 2 right angled bends in the railings; the procedure here is - I will bend the first railing/wire to the correct shape - use that as a pattern to bend the 2nd 2 rails the same shape.   Then - feed on the amount of stanchions which are required onto the 3 rails.    Next stage is to mark off on the model where the stanchions are to fit and then drill.   Then, its a case of 1 at a time fit the stanchions into the correct holes.   When I am happy with that - again I set the height of the stanchions with my plywood guage and with a dab of superglue I secure them.
 
.....
 
The 3rd method I use is when there is complicated shape/s.   This method I dont usually use that much - however, it is basically - I draw out the plan view of the shape of the railings I require on a piece of A4 paper.   This plan is 1:1 scale.   This A4 paper is then secured to a piece of plywood of the same size - half a inch thick plywood.  Then I mark off the spaces of the stanchions on the plan view and drill holes of the correct diameter for the stanchions.   I bend 3 pieces of wire to the correct shape of the plan I have drawn.  The next stage is to mount the stanchions onto the wires and then mount the stanchions into the holes that have been drilled into the plywood.
 
Set the correct height and then with either super glue or solder, secure all of the stanchions to the rails.
I then remove the stanchions and the paper from the board, trying to keep the paper in one piece and where I have drawn the line on the paper trim the paper to about 1/4 of an inch of the line you have drawn. ~Then place this paper template on the superstructure in the position that you want the railings and mark through with a pencil where all the holes are for the stanchions.  It is then a case of removing the paper template and drilling through where you have marked.   Glue the readymade stanchions in place then.
 
The other thing I sometimes do is, if you look on a lot of warships present day and old times, some of the railing stanchions have a support leg/s and this I do by using an off cut of railing wire, I flatten one end and bend it to about 30 degrees.  Place this on the deck and again the rail I want to support and solder in place.  Then trim to length.   With havin the wire longer, it is easier to hold whilst soldering.   
 
Last but not least, anyone building a scale model - be careful.   Originally, I took the spacings for the railings from the plan which I have (these are the builders plan for HMS Exeter) - on the builders plan the spaces were all even and worked out at about 7 ft between stanchions, but when I scrutinised a lot of photographs I came to realise that there were very few railings which were equally spaced - they all seemed to vary between 3 ft apart (depending on where they were) and 7 ft.
 
Couple of pics, just to show progress on the railings and stanchions.
 
aye
John
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derekwarner

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #137 on: November 26, 2013, 08:28:28 PM »

 %)....come on bluebird.....what does this mean?..... Derek

20
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #138 on: November 26, 2013, 08:37:13 PM »

Our Harry the cat just jumped on the keyboard Derek hahah
 
anyway....see above.
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #139 on: December 23, 2013, 07:39:51 PM »

hi all,

just a quick update. finished off the majority of the railings and now on the home run, starting on the masts and rigging.

the masts were made from 5mm dowel, tapered using the owld drill and sandpaper method.

Also using a manual for seamen from 1929 to help with the rigging.
aye
john
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #140 on: January 14, 2014, 08:12:40 PM »

hi all just a quick update
 
Begun on the actual rigging itself now and using the fishing line trace for the mast rigging along with 1 mm diameter beads to represent the blocks and pulleys in the rigging and by it aint half a tiring job on the owld eyeballs  %%  Also you will see I have completed the Walrus Seaplane, this came from the John Haynes' stables - quite a nice model - it lends itself, if you want it to, for a lot of super detailing.   I just stuck to the basic kit  :-))  = on a funnier side you know you are tired and your have sore eyes when you spend 1/2 an hour rigging the mast up, tying it off nice and neatly at the top and then cutting the wrong bit of thread off - so instead of cutting off the excess you cut the line off between the mast and the deck - ah well begin again  :}
 
Couple of pics.
 
aye
 
John
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Capt Podge

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #141 on: January 14, 2014, 08:42:24 PM »

Very impressive John, very impressive :-))
 
You've gone to a lot of trouble just to have somewhere to store your paintbrushes though  {-) {-) {-)
(see photo 3 - funnel - in latest posting).
 
Seriously though - looking forward to seeing this one in the flesh, so to speak. O0
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #142 on: January 14, 2014, 08:49:45 PM »

 %% %% {-) {-)  Trust an eagle eyed Tynemouth Rivet counter to spot that Ray  %% %%  that chimney sweep got a hell of a handful of chimney brushes hahahh - aw that has cheered me up Ray, I hadnt noticed.
 
aye
 
john
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dreadnought72

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #143 on: January 14, 2014, 09:11:24 PM »

Cracking work. I love it.

Andy
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Perkasaman2

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #144 on: January 16, 2014, 05:09:56 PM »

A great model from a master builder. Well done.  :-))
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dodes

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #145 on: January 17, 2014, 08:58:30 PM »

Superb model, which museum is going to exhibit in, too good to be put in water.
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mikearace

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #146 on: January 17, 2014, 09:05:10 PM »

Awesome........
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spooksgone

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #147 on: January 19, 2014, 10:13:40 AM »

Fantastic model, puts me to shame.
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Seaspray

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #148 on: January 19, 2014, 10:27:51 AM »

Early spring launch is it  ??

Nice one mate hope to see it in early summer when I pop along

martin
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John W E

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Re: HMS EXETER BUILD 1939
« Reply #149 on: January 25, 2014, 10:27:36 AM »

well lads, thank you all very much for the kind compliments, they are very much appreciated.  Now HMS Exeter is now finished, the rigging is complete as far as I want to take it - and 2 things I have to do now is find a nice place for it to live amongst me stuff in me room and secondly get its bottom wet - that will be early spring when I can get me son to come with me lift it, and the weather gets nicer :-)
 
Caution for those who are building warships with revolving turrets - ensure that all your deck furniture e.g. railings, awning stantions are clear of the barrels when the turret rotates - cause when I was sailing the high seas and fighting the Graf Spee in me imagination turning the turrets etc., I forgot about the stantions and as the barrels revolved they were in low position and it wiped out a few of them.  Bent them to peculiar shapes and it took me while to straighten them back out.
 
Couple of pics to follow.
 
Aye
John
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