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Author Topic: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear  (Read 101337 times)

rmaddock

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #125 on: March 19, 2012, 08:04:47 pm »

Is he not Spartacus?
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Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #126 on: March 20, 2012, 05:17:19 pm »

Today I finished off the forward seats/storage and all the paneling. Just the table and steering box to go.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #127 on: March 21, 2012, 12:17:53 pm »

One dropleaf table.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #128 on: March 21, 2012, 07:27:55 pm »

I did the table this morning. This afternoon started making a ship's wheel. The plans call for a 70mm diameter wheel which I can't find anywhere so no option than to make it myself. I know how they go together so I made a rough drawing to get an idea what size stock I needed to cut.
From the drawing I got the size and shape of a segment. I used this to make 12 No. rough, oversize segments.
By bisecting the 60 degree angle on a set square and drawing a normal line on the sanding station guide platform I made a jig to sand the ends of the segments to the correct angles. I don't often use a hand saw for accurate cuts, I prefer to use the sanding station and sand away little bit little bit and softly softly catchee monkee.


I cyo'd a copy of the plan onto some scrap 3mm ply,

 then cyo'd the 4mm thick segments onto the plan. I then cyo'd the 1.5 mm thick segments to another copy of the plan.


 When all gone off, I drilled the wheel center through both rings with a 1mm drill. Using the drill bit as a guide, I cyo'd the two rings together, wood to wood but with the joints rotated 30 degrees.

 When dry I drilled a 1mm hole in a piece of scrap and again, using the bit as a guide, I pinned the wheel section to the scrap. Next I offered the wheel up to the sanding disc until cutting at the required radius then clamped the scrap and slowly rotated the wheel segments until a perfect circle.


I secured the resulting ring in the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe, centered it using the pointy center bit as a guide to the 1mm center hole.

 Using the metal working tools and a fairly fast RPM I turned the inner section of the ring to size and made a small relief cut on the inner and outer edges of the 1.5 mm ring segments.
        
 Removed the piece from the lathe, reversed the chuck jaws, and replaced the piece in the chuck and turned away the 3mm ply from the center rear leaving a thin ring as temporary support.

That's as far as I got today.

 Plan to turn the spokes from 4MM stock tomorrow. Will turn the boss out of brass, cut away the 4mm ring in way of the spokes and cyo it all together. I have some miniature wood turning tools but no tool rest so intend clamping a piece of suitable steel in the tool holder as a toolrest. I will dig out all my New Yankee Workshop tapes and brush up on wood turning with Uncle Norm!!! This will be another "first" for me. Aside from the lathe and sanding station, these are the only tools I used. At this scale I can't be accurate or tidy enough by hand so always try and get a machine to get things as tiddly as possible.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #129 on: March 22, 2012, 05:48:24 pm »

Today I finished the wheel. I turned the brass boss and a pulley. Cut out the slots in the ring and cyo'd all together. I need to source a brass 4BA domed nut to tidy up the center of the boss.

I'm really pleased with it. This is what modelling is all about. I learned a lot today. So much more satisfying than buying one.

rmaddock

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #130 on: March 22, 2012, 08:21:28 pm »

 :-))
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Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #131 on: March 23, 2012, 06:06:44 pm »

Ta for the thumbs up. Made the housing for the wheel and pulley. Again it's removable for repairs. Will connect up to the bottle screws after varnishing. Not much done today as weather too nice so got the pushbike out for the second time this year and did 14 miles on the cycle path next to the Welsh Highland Railway.

Jerry.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #132 on: March 26, 2012, 07:01:21 pm »

I made the canopy woodwork out of balsa wood as weight is an issue. The edges of the planks are chamfered as the original is tongue and groove. I made it up on the plan but forgot to lay down clingfilm first, so I now have a canopy shaped hole in the plan sheet no. 4. I'll have to guess where the stanchions go. After I've ironed my hand of course. :embarrassed:


To replicate the canvas sheathing on the upper surface I covered it with calico PVA'd on with a diluted PVA wash.


While the PVA was going off I made some stanchion sockets from brass sheet and 4mm brass tube.


The stanchions are 3.5mm dia which fit perfectly in the sockets.  I ground square the end of the jaws of a pair of mole grips and used these and a small toffee hammer to make right angles in the sheet.


 I cleaned everything up, applied flux to the joints, held all in a jig made from paviors and soldered them all together.


 Will glue mahogany sheet to both faces before shaping them at the sander. The wood can be adjusted before gluing them to the deck and coaming such that the stanchions are vertical at LWL.



Some of the stanchions will be used as conductors for current for, nav lights, searchlight and cabin lights, so no need for 3 pairs of connectors.

Jerry.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #133 on: March 28, 2012, 06:13:20 pm »

After the trouble I had bending the mahogany for the cockpit coaming I decided to use iron on veneer strips of the type used to cover exposed MDF in kitchen furniture etc. So off to B&Q, "may I have some mahogany edging strip please?". "Oh, so sorry, we have no dark wood cabinets so only maple got. We can do special order, but more better go Stermat". So I went to Stermat. "We no have but we sell it in the Gaerwen store on Anglesey." So over the bridge to Gaerwen. They only got Maple or Black Oak. "OK then I'll take the Maple and stain it." "It's not real veneer you know, it's just thick, sticky backed plastic, I don't think it'll take stain". "I'll take it anyway and use stained varnish".
      I got it home and tried Colron stain on it and it worked great. After ironing it on I trimmed it roughly with a knife then used my little Rolson mini plane on it and took it down to the calico. That little plane has been a godsend. At first I thought it would turn out to be a useless toy but not so. All it needed was a scary sharp blade on it and it sings when it cuts!!
      I put two coats of acrylic primer on the canopy top and bottom today and in between when drying completed most of the electrics.

 I had been looking at the battery to receiver switch and figured the charging lead could feed another switch and I could gang three up together and feed Rx, Nav lights and search light off the Rx battery pack.  A separate switch off a 9V alkaline battery could feed the under canopy dolls house type lights (3). I separated and joined up all the negative (black) wires and connected them to a single black wire soldered to the aft stbd stanchion deck socket. three positive (red) wires each go to a separate stanchion deck socket. On the canopy the red wires to Nav, search and canopy lights are all soldered to their own canopy socket. The black wires all join on to one black wire which is soldered to the stbd aft canopy socket. So no fussy plugs and sockets. The canopy has to come off anyway to remove the steam plant for gassing up. So the stanchions are the plugs. Only problem turned out to be that it didn't work!!!! I wrongly assumed the battery feed to the switch and the charging lead were always common, when in fact they are only common when the switch is in the off position. So I soldered all the red wires before the switch together and it now works.
     

Next I primed the Robbe navigation light bodies then shoved two Q-tips up the insides to mask off the insides to leave them white and sprayed them with Plasticote 139S brass aerosol paint. The primer was cellulose and am not sure what plasticote is but it smells like cellulose and surprise surprise it did an excellent job and looks just like real brass. I like using cellulose cos it makes me feel funny.
      While all that was going off I knocked up some boards and chocks for the sidelights. I just cyoed four bits of wood together using a 90 deg jig then ground them down at the sanding station.

It takes longer to describe than to make one.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #134 on: March 29, 2012, 07:21:56 pm »

I got loads done today. First job, scrape moss and lichen from 20 sq meters of paviors. 1 hour cos I'm aching from doing same yesterday. I should have gone out on the pushbike, then she wouldn't have collared me!
  Back in the workshop I planed and thicknessed some Sapele for the canopy handrails. Marked out where wood needs removing, then nibbled it away with the table saw with blade height set at 3.5mm. Took about 15minutes.



Tidied up with the file. 15mins.



Then a little sanding to round off the edges.

It'll be easier to varnish these before attaching them to the canopy.

Got two coats of red and green on the sidelight boards. I know that post 1972 they should be black and this boat is modeled on a 1982 boat but the original don't use black and I like pretty colours, so there.

Turned jackstaff, mast and ensign staff out of pine with mahogany trucks. Finally made a prototype deck cleat but radished the hole for the pin and chewed it up in the vice when "adjusting it". Will knock off four tomorrow after cleaning more paviors.



I can't believe it's not brass!!

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #135 on: March 30, 2012, 06:12:37 pm »

More work today on cleaning the driveway and drainage channels. While doing this monotonous job I got to thinking about under canopy light fittings. I have found nothing suitable on tinterweb and have come to the conclusion that there isn't much out there for 1/8 scale. 1/12 and your laughing, so you've got to make your own.............. so:-

Take one Tesco probiotic yoghurt drink container,


cut off the neck of the bottle and sand flat,


mask off and put a couple of coats of primer on the neck below the threads. While this is drying cut four plinths out of scrap mahogany with a 1 1/4" hole saw. Tidy the edges with sand paper. When primer dry put a couple of coats of brass plasticote paint on the primer.



Cyo the neck to the plinth, add a dolls house lamp, screw the top back on and Bobs your uncle, one lamp fitting. Happy with prototype, drink three more bottles and repeat.


Jerry.

SailorGreg

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #136 on: April 02, 2012, 08:58:22 am »

Great stuff Jerry. I've been watching your build for a long time and loved all of it.  You seem a bit short of responses recently so I just  thought I would let you know we`re still out here and enjoying your progress. I trust the garden spring cleaning is done cos I can't wait for the finished product!

Greg

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #137 on: April 02, 2012, 10:40:55 am »

Hi Greg. Thank God, I was beginning to think I'd missed out on Armageddon. Or maybe it was the site meltdown or even moving the thread to Steam. I'm really glad to know there are still peeps out there!!
     Only ten sq meters of driveway to go, I ache all over. I have been continuing with the work though. The canopy is constructed, primed with PVA and covered with calico to simulate canvas over planks. The edging has been ironed on and trimmed. Ive got three coats of primer and two of cream satin topcoat but I'm not happy with it. The planks are meant to show through but, some show through more than others and it looks uneven. I didn't want a smooth ply substrate but I may have to make it again. Will decide when all completed.
     I've finished all the flag and ensign staffs and cut, trimmed and fitted the flags. The Aussie red ensign cos she's an Oz boat, the Welsh flag cos she's sailing on Welsh waters and the Alfie Holt flag cos it was my first company out of HMS Worcester.
     So into Bangor to tax my bike then a bit of drive scraping then I start varnishing. It's been a long haul to get here, nigh on 5 months full time, 6 days a week. Varnishing is my favourite part, not cos I like varnishing but just to see all the colours come out of the wood. It's a bit like cleaving a diamond, you hope to god that after all that work it shines.
     Here's a mockup with the canopy on and the final items before the varnish.

Unfortunately post image keeps telling me they are "invalid files" for some reason. Will post this and try again in a new post.

Jerry.

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #138 on: April 02, 2012, 11:07:11 am »

Yes where all hear sometimes you don't want to disturb your flow, keep up the Fantastic work

Peter
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Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #139 on: April 02, 2012, 12:12:51 pm »

Thanks Peter. I've let everything settle down and tried to repost my pics, even taken new ones but post image says invalid file. Anyone any ideas?

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #140 on: April 02, 2012, 01:45:34 pm »

Try an old pic............. that works. Try new pic............





Yippee!!! So, what was that all about then?

rmaddock

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #141 on: April 02, 2012, 03:02:10 pm »

Truely beautiful.
Couldn't work out the 9v battery on the canopy till I realised there's a shelf there. :embarrassed:
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Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #142 on: April 02, 2012, 07:20:25 pm »

I've just finished the first coat of sanding sealer on the inside and all the furniture and panelling and it's brought out the colour. Oh Wow.
Jerry.

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #143 on: April 03, 2012, 05:14:31 am »

 :-)) Looking great Jerry. Can't wait to see it varnished!
Reg
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Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #144 on: April 03, 2012, 05:35:09 pm »

Thanks Reg. I have been busy rubbing down the first coat of sanding sealer with wire wool. I got one more coat on this arvo and while waiting for it to dry I did a bit more on the canopy stanchion sockets. I had previously glued up two strips of mahogany at right angles lengthwise and then cyo'd the rough brass sockets into the included angle. So today I cut each assembly out of the strips and shaped them at the sanding station. just need a go with the needle files to complete them. The purpose for the wood is because the deck/coaming angle varies all the way round the deck and all stanchions need to be vertical when boat upright at load trim. By setting the angles on the sanding station I can adjust the wood so that each stanchion stands correct. I have used thinwall pipe so that a 3.5mm stanchion fits snugly into a 4mm socket.


Tried to upload pics to postimage and it's playing silly sods again, so I'll post this then put the pics up later.
Jerry.

Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #145 on: April 03, 2012, 06:52:41 pm »




I wasn't going to post any pics of the varnishing but I couldn't hold back. This is after the second coat of sanding sealer!!


Jerry.

KNO3

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #146 on: April 03, 2012, 07:58:45 pm »

Beautiful colour.
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Jerry C

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #147 on: April 03, 2012, 08:13:56 pm »

The best of it is my wife said it looks better as a boat than it ever did as a coffee table.  Result.

derekwarner

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #148 on: April 03, 2012, 09:24:11 pm »

I must agree with Kno3.......here Jerry C........beautiful planked hull tones & colours.....[plural]  :-))

Oh....& sorry if have used the original Kno3 lower case typing.............. :D .....Derek
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steamboatmodel

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Re: Jerry's - Steam Launch - Wear
« Reply #149 on: April 03, 2012, 10:44:42 pm »

I like your canopy stanchion sockets, another idea to file away for later.
Thanks,
Gerald.
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