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[Wetwater]

Hello Alan

Thanks for all your help and advice , I would like to veneer the deck similar to yours but am unsure of what glue to use what did you use? sorry to sound so ignorant but Irealise you only get one go at this and I want to get it right, also Alan your photos of your build have been a great help do you have any photos of the internal layout of your model ie motor esc prop tube etc and how you placed them, and    finally Alan I am thinking of using acrylic paints and am not sure if they need un undercoat ie Halfords grey primer first, any advice on this would again be appreciated.

Thanks again Alan
All the best, John.

 Hi, John.

 Can't remember for sure, but I probably used a contact adhesive. UHU, Evostick or similar to stick the veneer to the plastic deck.
 I will see if I can find photo's of the internal layout and post them later. 

 I sprayed my hull with Halfords primer with Humbrol enamel as the top coat.  Always best to have an undercoat whatever the make
 of paint.  Most, if not all, Acrylics should be OK over Halfords primer but advisable to do a test first.  There is a lot of info on painting
 with different types and makes in other sections of the forum.

 Hope Martin has answered your question regarding the Quote's.  Not red hot on these myself. 

 Alan.

[Wetwater]

.... also Alan your photos of your build have been a great help do you have any photos of the internal layout of your model ie motor esc prop tube etc and how you placed them ,....

John.

Can't find photo's of the complete internal fit, but have just taken a few which show the motor and battery position. The other
gear was removed long ago.  I used a stick of 4 x 1.2 amp C cells, which fit under the floor as can be seen.  These were inserted
before the motor was mounted.  The motor is just held in place by a rubber band.  The coupling is a simple pin and disc affair, as was used a lot years ago.  Not so critical to line up. Mine was just made up from bits from the "might get used again one day" box.       Looks a bit odd but nothing special.  A short prop shaft used which is not easily seen.

The esc sat under the rear hatch, just forward of the rudder post, with the rudder servo lying on it's side behind the post and
connected to the disc via a very short rod. The photo should make this clear.  The receiver, it's battery pack and switch, plus a
lump of lead ballast, fitted under the foredeck, accessable via the removable seat assembly.  Both battery's fitted with charging
sockets and charged in situ. The aerial ran in a loop under the deck. Never had any trouble with this method although others will disagree.  What suits one ..........

All a bit cramped using old acoms radio and a Hitec "Gold Brick" esc.  Miniature gear will make installation a LOT easier.

Alan.

[murphy1570]

This is a normal response

.... with your reply added UNDERNEATH .... as it should be!  


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Hello Martin

Thanks for your reply I think I am a wee bit clearer now and I did not realise I was replying in the wrong place.

All the best, John.

[murphy1570]

Hello Alan
Thanks for all your help so far re the "SS" Janet", I used UHU to stick the venner to the plastic deck as you suggested worked great, another couple of wee questions I hope you may be able to help me with, did you use the original prop, tube and shaft supplied with the kit, also how do you work out where the waterline is, what I mean is where should the boat sit in the water to ensure stability? I can find no mention of this in the instructions ie how much ballast to add if required to add etc. sorry if this sounds a wee bit naive. Any advice would be appreciated, may I also thank all other members who have replied to my original post again any help re the above would be welcome.

Thanks folks, all the best, John.

[Wetwater]

Hi, John.
I made my own propshaft and tube, my preference, although the supplied unit should be OK. I also moved the rudder forward as can
be seen by comparing my photo with the SHG illustration. Just thought it looked better.  Again, my preference.  I used a brass prop.

The amount of ballast would obviously depend on what motor, battery, radio gear etc you are using, and the locations of same.  I needed
very little extra, up in the bow for trim, as the gear I used was heavy enough.  Try your components in various locations until the boat sits level in the water.  One of my photo's gives a fairly good indication of the waterline, approximately 1/2 an inch above the top of the rudder, and is about the same as shown on the SHG illustration. Not too critical but a little higher would give more stability. No problems with my model.  Hope this helps.  
Alan.