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Author Topic: huntsman total refurb  (Read 29175 times)

MikeA

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #125 on: January 17, 2012, 11:31:39 PM »

fair enough
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #126 on: January 17, 2012, 11:47:11 PM »

fair enough

Hope i did not come accross like i was being moody, was just explaing what i ment by "warm" and telling you that i was going to grab a 40 like you had said in prev posts.
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #127 on: January 17, 2012, 11:53:16 PM »

Mike, totally off subject but are you into online gaming on the pc?
have you heard of Americas army? its a first person army combat game made by the u.s army and given away free. not like cod with stupid respawns, you can actually iliminate the other side, once your dead your dead till the new round starts. its meant to be a combat simulator and has physics that are realistic, theres no fanatsy guns or stupid things, you can only do whats possible in real life.

http://www.americasarmy.com/aa3.php
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red181

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #128 on: January 18, 2012, 12:00:35 AM »

are you using "x" props, or "s" props?

"x" are the way to go, that 700 motor, 9.6v yes? is it a bb turbo? I have done extensive testing so might be able to offer some results, as regard direction, viewed from the rear, the prop shoud turn anti clockwise, and the trailing edge of the prop will be the straight edge, if you know what I mean!

38 and 40mm seems very small to me for that boat and motor, but you are doing the right thing, start small and work up in size
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #129 on: January 18, 2012, 01:34:12 AM »

35mm x prop is what i have now, the motor is the 700 speed turbo, not the bb, yes its rated at 9.6v
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MikeA

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #130 on: January 18, 2012, 08:22:33 AM »

are you using "x" props, or "s" props?

"x" are the way to go, that 700 motor, 9.6v yes? is it a bb turbo? I have done extensive testing so might be able to offer some results, as regard direction, viewed from the rear, the prop shoud turn anti clockwise, and the trailing edge of the prop will be the straight edge, if you know what I mean!

38 and 40mm seems very small to me for that boat and motor, but you are doing the right thing, start small and work up in size

whats an s prop?
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MikeA

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #131 on: January 18, 2012, 08:24:00 AM »

Mike, totally off subject but are you into online gaming on the pc?
have you heard of Americas army? its a first person army combat game made by the u.s army and given away free. not like cod with stupid respawns, you can actually iliminate the other side, once your dead your dead till the new round starts. its meant to be a combat simulator and has physics that are realistic, theres no fanatsy guns or stupid things, you can only do whats possible in real life.

http://www.americasarmy.com/aa3.php

not heard of this game. i Use to be into online gaming but not as much these days. Im using  a laptop and its rubbish for gaming.
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gwa84

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #132 on: January 18, 2012, 02:54:44 PM »

with that motor and cooling coil ive run it on an x45 and a s50 with it geting worm but not hot  so you can defanetly put a bigger prop on it  :-))
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #133 on: January 18, 2012, 04:16:38 PM »

whats an s prop?

The shape of the prop.
I may be wrong but i believe only the x prop has the straight edge and is a much sharper looking blade and the s has a much softer shape to it

Yeah, a laptop will struggle or fail to run AA, its min requirements are a 3ghz single core, 1gb ram, 256mb video with shader 3.0 and 5 gb hard drive space

min recommended for decent play is 2.4ghz duel core cpu, 2gb ram and 500mb video
i breeze it with my gaming setup lol, got a 965 black edition cpu (4x 3.4ghz and clockable to 4 x 4.0ghz) 4gb ram and 512mb video with fast gpu on it(clockable also), all game settings at max.
i run at stock speeds as i dont need to overclock yet!
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pompebled

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #134 on: January 21, 2012, 10:56:03 PM »

its got a 35mm prop on it at the moment, the most recommended was a 38mm but where i got my bits from did not have a 38, just 35 and 40.

No, i never did get a response from anyone regarding running the motor in both directions,
As you can see, it clearly state permissable motor direction, other models they make have L+R in the specs.
this graupner motor i have runs slightly slower in reverse polarity, the problem is although I'm pretty sure that damage is not going to be caused by the short periods that reverse is used and really should be OK for continuous running i don't know for sure.   
I will do a bit of research as I've not looked into it really, just asked on here.
Hi Steve,

When a motor is marked L+R, this means it has neutral timing and will run (about) equally fast in both directions, important if you're going to run twin motors with counter rotating props.

The R from your motor means it has been timed to run faster in that direction (Germans look from the motor towards the prop when determining L or R).
As already mentioned earlier, viewed from the transom, the prop should turn counterclockwise.

A rule of thumb is that the propsize should not exceed the motor (strictly speaking the of the armature), so a 35 S is on the small side, the boat will not be very fast and the motor will stay cool.

The 9,6V motors are/were run in competition boats on 12-14 cells, so on 8,4V it'll be very sedate, getting the cellcount up will make the boat more lively.
When you do that, go back in propsize (the 35 will do) and make short runs (2 minutes max), come in and check the temperature of motor, ESC and cells.
If everything stays cool enough, try a bigger prop.
I've been running the Graupner 2318,xx K-series hydro props in subsurface applications aswel as the S props, both work well.

When you're carrying sufficient capacity to achieve long runtimes, keep in mind the brushed motors are only 75% efficient, the rest is transferred into heat, most of which originates at the brushes.
Adding brushtab cooling is a very good way to keep them cool.
It's very simple, just solder a piece of brass pipe onto each brushtab and link them to the cooling circuit.



Just make sure you don't create a short to the can, the silicon tubing acts as an insulator if need be.
Cover the coil with shrinkwrap, to press it tightly on the can.
Adding heatconductive paste enlarges the contact surface.

Should the coil prove to ineffective, make a full cooling jacket, like on the 700 Neodym in the picture:



When running in salt water, make an inlet for the ESC and one brushtab, and an inlet for the coil/jacket and the second brushtab.
The longer stretch of tubing will avoid losses due to the conductivity of salt water (no, this will not cause a short).

Regards, Jan.
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #135 on: January 22, 2012, 02:48:22 PM »

thanks for the info jan, it has cleared up a couple of questions.
when you say soldier to the brush tabs, you mean the external electrical connectionsss to the motor? thats what i see in your pics but just asking to be 1001% on it!

thanks, Steve.
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pompebled

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #136 on: January 22, 2012, 07:26:31 PM »

Yep,

I use a wooden washpeg to keep the pipe in position:



The pipe is too long in the picture and not pre-tinned, but you get the idea.

Regards, Jan.
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Welsh Wizard

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #137 on: January 22, 2012, 08:09:31 PM »

Now thats a dammed good idea water cooling the terminals


Dave
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pompebled

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #138 on: January 22, 2012, 08:42:54 PM »

Hi Dave,

It's common practice in the restriced classes, with a good set-up, it's often the only cooling the motor gets, no coil or jacket.

Regards, Jan.
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #139 on: January 30, 2012, 01:51:36 PM »

sorry, not been on for a few days.

jan, im almost certainly going to cool the terminals like you have shown, im sure it can only provide very limited cooling to the brushes due to whats actually between the outside tabs and the internal brushes themselves but cooling any part of the motor is going to help no matter how small a gain. what im really interested in is your home made cooling jacket!
i would love to know how you made it, its really thin and wondering how the water is routed inside. do you have any photos of the construction of it?
i am also looking at fitting a small fan to the shaft infront of the motor to provide direct drive air cooling through the front vents of the motor and the alley motor mount that acts as a heatsink. water cooling the outer or the motorhelps to cool the the fixed magnets and dissipate some heat but does not have a huge affect on the armature temp. air flow through the motor will have the single biggest cooling affect and coupled with water cooling to the outer of the motor would provide the best overall souloution i think.

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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #140 on: January 30, 2012, 09:20:57 PM »

OK, Ive done what I said with the fan on the profshaft.
I took apart a small PC fan and bored a hole in the middle of the fan face and fitted it directly on the universal joint just behind the motor.
pleased with the results, the blades create a fair amount of airflow blowing directly into the front motor vents and aluminium motor mount, i can feel a decent amount of air exiting the rear motor vents so should get pretty good internal cooling from this.

heres some pics-










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MikeA

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #141 on: January 31, 2012, 01:12:03 AM »

i like your fan addaptation. Dont worry too much about cooling, a well set up motor and prop combination will only require very basic cooling, The extreme lengths that jan goes to is for the high voltages used in racing. I dont know if you have your water cooling plumbed in yet and tested but you will be suprised just how affective it is. Trry prop testing first and then see if more cooling is required, it wont hurt having more cooling mind but not much point in going overkill if you catch me drift :-))
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #142 on: January 31, 2012, 01:48:11 AM »

ran it again two days ago but this time in a propper pond for the full legth of its battery, full throttle and with a 40mm prop on it.
goes much faster than it did before and still has room for improvement as i can up the voltage a bit. the motor was not cooled in any way and got seriously hot! i still havent got around to getting the water cooling active.
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Norseman

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #143 on: January 31, 2012, 05:32:29 PM »

The extreme lengths that jan goes to

True but I enjoyed seeing Jans method - ha ha - still don't understand why it doesn't short out
though. Maybe I missed to much school?

Random thought - I just remembered Mr C' (our chemistry teacher 1970?) setting fire to his lab
coat. He put the small fire out, seemed panicked, and then had a mental breakdown there and
then in front of us all. half a school year remained and no Science was taught.

Hi Steve - that neat fan is doing work, so isn't that also producing some load too?

Dave
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MikeA

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #144 on: February 01, 2012, 05:08:57 PM »


Hi Steve - that neat fan is doing work, so isn't that also producing some load too?

Dave

yes it will adding load too the motor, the heat that steve is talking about in my oppinion is not good.
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #145 on: February 01, 2012, 10:28:07 PM »

yes the fan will obviously produce a "form" of resistance as it is pumping air, but the resistance is so so small that you wouldent be able to measure it without specialsit equipment.
The fan was rated at 60ma, thats 0.06A to run at its full speed to give an idea of the power needed to turn it
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #146 on: February 01, 2012, 10:44:34 PM »

yes it will adding load too the motor, the heat that Steve is talking about in my oppinion is not good.

Don't forget that a water pickup will cause drag also, probably a lot more than this fan does!
Its a heavy arsed boat which got run for the entire capacity of its battery with a 40mm prop on it. i was really supprised just how much bigger the 40mm prop was compared with the 35mm, it made a massive difference to the performace of the boat, it goes at least a 3rd faster than before (still not like a rocket) and even lifts the front a little now. a result of the new prop is a huge increase in the work the motor has got to do and thefore heat. some that have run these motors say they got hot others say not, i think theres a big link between prop size AND boat weight.

when i get a chance i will run the boat and test its top speed with gps, its run time and the motor temp and then do another speed test without the fan in-line.
I'm 100% theres no alignment issues and that theres no resistance issues.
if you can think of anything else mike I'm all ears as it is a tad hot lol
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red181

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #147 on: February 01, 2012, 11:01:27 PM »

how hot steve? too hot to touch?

just to recap, its a 40mm prop, "s" or "x", what batteries where you running, and for how long did it run. Do you have  any video of it running?, other than the fan, no cooling coil?

 sorry to go over old ground, just so I know exactly what you are running in order to offer help,

Paul
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stevesteve

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #148 on: February 02, 2012, 04:49:16 PM »

Hi Paul, its a speed 700 turbo (not BB) running a 40mm X prop on a 3300mah 8.4v nimh pack it ran  for approx 15 Min's and yes it was too hot to comfortably touch for long period but not too hot to touch full stop. there was no cooling running at all at that time, the fan is meant to provide additional internal air cooling on top of the water cooling that WILL be fitted
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red181

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Re: huntsman total refurb
« Reply #149 on: February 02, 2012, 06:59:32 PM »

is it a 9.6v turbo, whats the part number on the case?

ta
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