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Author Topic: HMS Macedonian  (Read 27153 times)

warspite

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #50 on: October 30, 2016, 04:09:34 PM »

Ok, just thought that due to the size, the counter weight would move closer to the hull and be spread over the whole length as that's a hefty tube, with 45lbs in it, mine is only about 80mm wide and 300mm+ long, (this is sovereign, an AIRFIX HMS Victory kit convert), it needed about 250g to keep it sufficiently stable vertical, but I may be a bit over protective on the righting moment.
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Operational - 1/72 LCMIII, 1/180 Sovereign, HMS Victory to be sailed
Non Operational - 1/72 Corvette, 1/72 E-Boat, 1/72 vosper mtb
incomplete, tug, cardboard castle class convert

warspite

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #51 on: October 31, 2016, 10:30:26 PM »

many thanks for the pm, I understand the dynamics of the larger scale, the problem I have for this vessels size is that a sail board is the only option, its so tiny and all the working are internal and detract from providing a sufficient low weight righting moment, it's sister - Victory - I'm trying to get to work properly with a decent rudder and a way of operating the sail with a winch, rather than the twisting of the masts, I have yet to see if a small tube fitted underneath would work, I have been preoccupied with other things to be able to progress any further.
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Operational - 1/72 LCMIII, 1/180 Sovereign, HMS Victory to be sailed
Non Operational - 1/72 Corvette, 1/72 E-Boat, 1/72 vosper mtb
incomplete, tug, cardboard castle class convert

JerryTodd

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Back to HMS Macedonian
« Reply #52 on: November 01, 2016, 04:16:09 AM »

Rough cut the channels from 4mm ply and began laying out the quarter galleries

JerryTodd

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Quarter Galleries
« Reply #53 on: November 01, 2016, 07:52:46 PM »

And framing begins...

The galleries will be sheathed in 1/32" ply - is that .5mm?

JerryTodd

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Quarter Galleries
« Reply #54 on: November 02, 2016, 01:48:36 PM »

And sheathing commences...  Not to worry, I've made cardstock patterns of everything so I can duplicate this work on the other side.  ;)

JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #55 on: November 02, 2016, 08:03:08 PM »

Made a molding scraper and scraped some strips into molding with it.  The molding was applied on the starboard sheer-line with gaps for the channels.  There's another line of molding above this.

JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #56 on: November 03, 2016, 08:41:35 PM »

Moldings and quarter gallery going on the port side.

JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #57 on: November 06, 2016, 08:45:31 PM »

Got the port side caught up to the starboard side, and did a LOT of sanding of the clumpy epoxy on the port side.  Still a way to go before I can get some paint on her, which is what I'm aiming for.

dlancast

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #58 on: November 06, 2016, 10:31:25 PM »

nice work Jerry, you amaze me.  Can't wait for color.   I'm into miniture WW2 naval stuff these days. Dennis
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dlancast

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #59 on: November 06, 2016, 10:32:02 PM »

more
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dlancast

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #60 on: November 06, 2016, 10:32:58 PM »

more... sorry folks for the off topic stuff.
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JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #61 on: November 07, 2016, 04:04:58 AM »

I have a Fletcher class DD to build as the USS Evans that I've poked at a little at a time, trying to do the oil canning in the hull.  I can only do a few of the divots before I start going nuts, and it's taking me forever - almost literally.

derekwarner

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #62 on: November 07, 2016, 04:40:19 AM »

A little off thread here Jerry, however the destroyer Frank E. Evans of the United States Navy strikes an unpleasant if not saddened timeline in our RAN history.... Derek


https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjrvdGg55XQAhWGqJQKHXWmDXAQFgggMAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FMelbourne%25E2%2580%2593Evans_collision&usg=AFQjCNH58Mb3bpzvQwts1CyEY-Ci60UceA
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Derek Warner

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JerryTodd

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USS Evans
« Reply #63 on: November 07, 2016, 01:14:07 PM »

Different ship, Frank wasn't a Fletcher.  This was the Robert Evans DD552.

derekwarner

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #64 on: November 07, 2016, 11:13:57 PM »

Thanks Jerry....I stand corrected  :embarrassed:.... just the name as USS Evans mentioned confuses..............Derek
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Derek Warner

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JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #65 on: November 13, 2016, 06:59:57 AM »

Switched over to installing jack-stays on Constellation's yards, till I ran out of eye-pins, so it's back to Macedonian, and I started making her masts...

To make Macedonian's lower masts, I looked at various sources.  Several forums, Internet searches, period pieces like Steel's.  Photos of models.  But while I could see the end product, it was hard for me to visualize what was going on, or how it got to that point.  Lee's Masting and Rigging was, in some ways, the clearest and easiest to comprehend; my problem with Lee's is trying to pick MY time-frame from the stew of data he presents.  Often only parts of things change over time, so you have to piece it together; checks from 1800-1816, hounds from 1770-1820, rubbing paunch (used to be the "front fish") from 1810-, brains from Abby Normal, and that sort of thing.
For my 1812ish frigate it seems, if I interpret all this correctly, The mast can be a single piece with cheeks and rubbing paunch added on.  It tapers from the deck to the top end.  From the top of the cheeks/hounds down, it's round except it's left flat on the sides where the cheeks attach.  The cheeks are rounded themselves to nearly blend into the mast, but there's a bit of a step or channel formed so they don't taper down to nothing at the sides.  The real hounds are a separate piece scarfed onto the cheeks.  I found it better to actually do this so they weren't in the way or getting damaged.  Lee's gives the proportions of these parts; for instance, the rubbing paunch is 1/3 the width of the mast.
I didn't put any taper in the space between decks, and the bury below the gundeck is 8-sided.  After shaping the core of the mast, I used strips of copper tape left-over from Constellation's bottom to make the banding.  Every-other band where the cheeks are is under them and need to go on before the cheeks.
So far the fore and mizzen are nearly ready to paint, and the main is tapered, but still square.

dlancast

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #66 on: November 13, 2016, 04:45:50 PM »

Very nice Jerry.  Looks like a properly "fished" mast to me.  I also used copper tape for banding on my frigate build... only way to go in my books.  Dennis
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JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #67 on: November 13, 2016, 09:12:39 PM »

It's a little thin; I could probably have done more than one layer, but once everything is painted and the spider's web is spun, I don't think it'll be a distraction.

I used wet-n-stick brown paper packing tape for Constellation's mast banding, but with the gaps between cheeks and mast I thought the copper would be the better bet.  I also got a bottle of CA with a brush in it, and gave the edges and seam a little reinforcement.

dlancast

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #68 on: November 13, 2016, 10:03:40 PM »

That will be fine Jerry, due to thinness of the copper, I double wrapped it around the mast for the banding... it all works and sure looks good.  Dennis
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #69 on: November 14, 2016, 09:52:37 PM »

It was interesting to read recently now little of the masts and spars etc are actually round. Parts are square and some even octagonal depending on the size and role of the component.

Your mast looks good. I like the bands and considerable square section as well as the beautiful knees to support the cross trees. (Excuse the unintended rhyme:O)

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JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #70 on: November 15, 2016, 05:33:29 PM »

Got the main mast 8-sided, round, and other shapes where they're supposed to be, banded, cheeked, and all clamped up.  The fore and main are waiting for a rubbing paunch each, and all three need their tenons cut top and bottom.

JerryTodd

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #71 on: December 29, 2016, 01:32:54 PM »

Got two yards of gray Supplex very cheap from a different supplier than usual.  I think it was a remnant or the end of the bolt.  It seems a bit dark indoors, but outside and with flash it's not so bad for the sails of a British frigate.

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #72 on: May 24, 2019, 04:31:55 PM »

Took all three models to a Model Expo at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum on the 18thMacedonian got in the water for the first time with about 30 pounds of weight in her.

ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Macedonian
« Reply #73 on: May 26, 2019, 06:31:12 PM »

Looking great Jerry.
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JerryTodd

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3D Printing
« Reply #74 on: March 30, 2020, 03:13:00 AM »

 Since May the job has kept me away from my hobbies, or just too worn out to get anything done - I'm too old for this $#!+.
 But it has allowed me to splurge a little on something for myself, in the form of a 3D printer.  I looked around for a long time, trying to make heads or  tails of all the constantly changing stuff out there.
 I decided to go with a resin vat type because it offered better quality, more detailed prints than the filament types, and I'm not concerned with printing large items, but mostly parts for models.
 I got an Elegoo Mars for under $250 on Amazon after a few weeks of research narrowing it down.  YouTube is chock full of reviews for this, and other printers of this type.

 My first print on the machine were 9 more carronades from the file the original set I had printed in 2012 came from, supplied by Tim Bowman who also sent me files for the 18 pounder Blomefields, carriages, and slides.  You can't see the print in progress until near the end - and then only if it's a long enough item - to see how things are going, so it's a pretty nerve-racking process, especially the first time.  Even when they're done they're covered in resin, hiding any details.  After cleaning them in alcohol I was pleased as punch to find they were every bit as good as the 2012 prints.
   
 The slides didn't come out as well.  One of the 6 I printed failed to release and looked like a Star Trek transporter accident, the other five were great on top, but the underside looked somewhat melted.  I can fix them, so they're usable, but I need to learn more to get them to come out right.
 
 I built a wheel in 3D modeling software for a 4 foot RC schooner from scratch, but it's printing too thin to be of use, and it's underside isn't right, just like the carronade slides.  While I fiddle with getting this wheel right, I'm working on the 3D models for Constellation's trail-boards, and Mac's figurehead.
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