Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Strut Position  (Read 2665 times)

chombo

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 27
Strut Position
« on: December 28, 2011, 07:02:11 am »

Can someone tell me where does the drive strut with flex shaft drive get positioned on the stern of a race boat,
is it the same for both v hull and catamaran hull, on some forums they say offset to starboard
side 1/4" of an inch and some say keep centre of hull,lam confused.

Chombo :-)

Happy new year to everybody.
Logged

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,422
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2011, 12:03:01 pm »


  Stab-in-the-dark-time!

  The "rule" is it should be on the centre line for most efficiency but as a screw propeller  produces asymmetrical / corkscrew trust,
  ( ie. left or right ).   Some modellers  angle or off-set the prop shaft to one side so that the trust compensates the offset and the
  boat should travel in a straight line without any input from the 'turn fin'  or rudder.

  This usually applied to the top end boats but in my lower power boats that I've built, I've used 'down the centre' drive line rules
  and keep the boat straight with the rudder.

  ... but what do I know!
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

chombo

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 27
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2011, 12:38:02 pm »

Thanks martin a bit more info to add to my knowledge base.
Logged

gwa84

  • Guest
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2011, 03:03:01 pm »

in sead generality high power boats the strut is set at the lowest possible point in a deep v and with a cat set at the same height as the sponsons and an offset left or right depending on rotational direction of the prop   :-)) as for the angle generally you start level with the bottom of the boat and work from there  :-))
Logged

Patternmaker

  • Guest
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2011, 04:01:30 pm »

Hi Chombo,
I have built quite a few sports boats, I always offset the strut 3mm from centre line to starboard, for LH prop rotation

Mick
Logged

chombo

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 27
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2011, 07:38:17 am »

Thank you all for your comments it really is helpful and the pictures are a great help thanks Mick,
I see you have auto balers on one of your boats would you recommend them as some people have
said they have sunk there boats because of them.

Chombo :-)
Logged

Patternmaker

  • Guest
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2011, 08:55:34 am »

Hi Chombo, never had any problems with auto bailers, if you make sure they are keep clean.

Mick
Logged

glennb2006

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 434
  • Location: Newcastle
Re: Strut Position
« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2011, 07:39:35 pm »

On surface drive mono I would advise offset the centreline of the strut to the right by 6mm. Martin had the idea, the prop because it leaves and re-enters the water creates a paddle effect, which pulls the stern to port, and the boat goes to the right. Known as prop walk. The offset thrust goes someway to balancing this out, though be aware that different props create different amounts of prop walk, and a good sharp prop is essential to reducing this.

As to height from tip of vee for the mono drive line height - build the model so you can adjust this, some props I use a centreline 13mm up from the tip of the vee and the same model with a different prop itr drops right down as low as I can get it. I do find the higher the strut the less prop walk and general prop effect, torque roll etc. Stands to reason really when you think about it.

Unloading the prop by lifting it can also sometimes improve performance by letting the motor get into a more efficient rev range, though all motors are different of course.

To your point on auto bailers and sinking, use them or don't, your choice, I have a hole in the transom to let water out, but whatever you do, ensure that you have enough flotation built in that the model will never sink, and test it with lead in the place of the engine and radio to prove it will not sink, there is little worse than the feeling of wondering if you have enough flotation in place as your stranded model gets lower in the water. Also check the radio box to ensure nothing gets in there when it is underwater.

Happy New Year to you too, and happy boating - what are you planning on building?

Glenn
 
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.096 seconds with 22 queries.