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[polobeer]

Does anyone know the width of this submarine kit, particularly the internal width/diameter? I've only been able to find the length. I was wondering if I could fit the Caswell subs Revell Skipjack WTC into it which is 3.175 cms in diameter and 21.59 cms long. Obviously the Dragon sub is longer than this but I presume I could ballast the extra space to balance the boat. The question is though, presuming I can get the WTC to fit, is the Ohio too long to work as a dynamic diving sub?

Many thanks
Simon  

[thegrimreaper]

I dont know the if you could fit the caswell WTC into the model you mention but I dont think the lengh of the sub matters as to whether it will be to long for a dynamioc diver

Regards Mark

[Subculture]

It should fit. But these small scale models are extremely fiddly to work with. To get it to work as a dynamic diver you need to ballast it low in the water decks awash and it should go under fairly easy. An Ohio will never have the agility of a Skipjack or other attack class boats though.

[polobeer]

Well I've decided to take the plunge and buy one of the larger 1/350 scale subs (maybe the Ohio or le Triomphant ) and have a go at converting it to RC with a scratch built water tight box. So I was wondering if someone could suggest a suitable and compatible RC shopping list of components which are as cheap as possible but still of reliable and safe quality? I'm working to a very tight budget as I'm totally skint at present. I've been looking at Ebay suppliers for micro and nano rc components, of which there are loads, but I'm unsure what voltages, channels, frequencies, etc, to purchase. I do have a couple of transmitters I could use to keep costs down but these would need crystals for the new receiver (I currently live in France by the way, so the frequencies might be different). Obviously as the sub would be a dynamic diver I don't need a ballast system.

Two other things, how do I waterproof brass tubing with fine brass rod for the prop and servo rods to the rudder, etc? And how would I waterproof a scratch built plasticard water tight box, and it's holes for the motor shaft, rudder rods, etc?

Many thanks as always folks!

Simon

[Subculture]

Radio wise, Hobbyking do miniature servos and receivers at keen prices. You want 40mhz kit which is legal in Europe. A Corona 4 channel synthesized RX is under a tenner, and 1.7 gram servos are a couple of quid each. Lipos make sense for battery power, and I would run on two cells (7.4v).

The techniques for waterproofing the hatch and shafts are exactly the same as bigger subs, so lots of past build threads for you to look at to gather inspiration. The difference is that for larger boats you can use a lot of ready made components, for a tiny boat you will have to scratchbuild.those items.

[cos918]

Hi Simion
Try and see if you can get the Revell typhoon 1:350. The problem with a single shaft sub is doing all the links for the rudder and stern plans they need dog legs in them to get a round the shaft. In 1:350 it will be a night mare as it is hard enought in bigger scales. The typhoon has X2 shaft  and does not have this prolem + it is wider so easier to work in.

john

[polobeer]

Hello John,

The bigger size is obviously better but I'm not keen on the Typhoon. I really want a classic US type sub with dive planes on the sail and sadly I can't afford the larger GRP hull kits that represent these submarines. 

Cheers
Simon 

[cos918]

Hi Simion
why not try trumpetier seawolf has it is bigger
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B00079VL98/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_3/183-6092579-7969455?ie=UTF8&index=3
found your old thread
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=16721.0

John

[polobeer]

Thanks John. I've not seen that thread for ages but it does show that converting the Ohio is possible. I'm used to working with very small models so I'm sure making up the linkages would be reasonably straight forward. I'm more bothered about making everything waterproof and getting a simple, compatable rc system together.

Simon

[Subculture]

The problem with a single shaft sub is doing all the links for the rudder and stern plans they need dog legs in them to get a round the shaft.

You can run independent control rods to each control surface and link them together further forward.

I would be inclined to copy the approach Dave Merriman took with the little Skipjack kit, where he used rare earth magnets in place of linkage seals. That makes for a no maintenance system that suits these small boats, and the magnetic interface is low in friction.

That leaves the shaft seal, magnets could be used again, but a small piece of silicone tubing should do the job, pushed over where the shaft exits the watertight box and tacked in with a dab of silicone rubber.

[polobeer]

Cheers Rich for the extra info. Any suggestions as to some "cheap" micro rc components, voltages and frequencies?

Simon

[Subculture]

I'm not 'Rich'.

See my reply in post four for voltages and equipment.

Sourcing miniature servos, receivers, ESC etc. is not your problem, these are all now readily and inexpensively available. Unless you want to build something ridiculously tiny, then there really is no limit except the skill of the constructor.

[polobeer]

I'm not 'Rich'.

See my reply in post four for voltages and equipment.

Sourcing miniature servos, receivers, ESC etc. is not your problem, these are all now readily and inexpensively available. Unless you want to build something ridiculously tiny, then there really is no limit except the skill of the constructor.

I suppose names are very passé and Twentieth Century. What is your name then?

[redboat219]

Polobeer,
 
Please check out this link showing a 1/350 Ohio converted to RC.
http://www.mikromodellbauwelt.de/html/modelluboote.html

[Subculture]

Some very neat stuff on that site. Never knew the 544 servo IC came in SMD form.

Love the tiny 1/700 Oscar class with a proportional piston tank.