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[mikearace]

I had a very lucky xmas with my two daughters each buying me a Deans Model - the MA/SB and the larger of the two picket boats.

The only problem that presented me with is if I start to build one and not the other I will hear a cry of 'why arent you building mine first?'.  Even though I am 3/4s way through a non Deans Build of HMS Yarmouth I have been asked already 'when are you going to start my boat?'.

So this week I made a start on both with the aim of building both side by side to protect sensitivities.  For each I will do a short build thread.

Starting with the Picket Boat, the contents were checked and everything was present. Castings were quite good with no complaints at all and the hull had no blemishes or air pockets to speak of so very pleased there.

The one criticism I would make is the instructions are very poor on first reading.  I have to be honest and say that the one niggle I have with Deans is sometimes the instructions can let down the product but I know that the newer models and the updated ones have had vastly improved instructions.  This is apparent when comparing the MA/SB instructions.  The MA/SB instructions are what instructions should be.  Clear and informative and nothing missed with good colour pics.  The picket boat has huge gaps, nothing to deter someone who has built a model or two but for a beginnner it can be difficult.  At times there are no instructions at all  - the main gun isnt in the instructions at all.  It would hae to be entirely guess work.  The deck merely says to fit deck.  No mention of deck supports or anything like it.  However a call to Ron and it was remedied by an updated instruction sheet for the gun.  I would guess that the picket isnt one that has had the benefit of an instruction or plan upgrade yet.  Anyway the hull was started.

Rubbed and washed and holes made were necessary.  First snag was the plan, instruction and hull marking for the rudder were all in different places!!  So logic was applied and a place found that was right using the spacing required from the prop end for clearance and the opening in the deck.  Tacked in with superglue then clear slow set expoxy applied.  Same for the shaft.

When this dries FG paste will be used to set it fully and secure it.

Meantime because it was cold in the garage and I had the day to myself today I have gone out of sequence and started on the vac form engine casing, main cabin etc.  This model does lend itself to be made out of sequence.     

The engine casing is a straightforward cut out from the vac sheet as are the other vac form parts.  The main caibn goes together very well and the parts are accurately marked.  The cabin roof is a bit of an effort with a fair amouth of fettling and sizing required and having to glue it in stages to ensure it stays as it requires some shaping to meet the cabin sides at the top.

[mikearace]

Well a bit more work from the last week.  The funnel is rubbed down.  Started the detail on the engine casing and it is coming together nicely I think.  The roof of the Cabin is now sanded to the right shape which was a bit of a pain as the vac form does require a fair bit of manipulation but got there in the end.  Also started the 6pounder - just two more bits of white metal fittings to go.  The deck side supports are now set in place and currently drying with the usual bulldog clips to keep in place while setting.  The engine mount has been lined up and is set in place together with the battery tray.  Later this week I will then move to the servo as it does need a bit of thought as to placing it.  The instructions totally conflict on the rudder placing - neither of the places seems appropriate but then the instructions dont even mention deck beams apart from one cursory reference.

[mikearace]

The deck has been cut to size and it was surprisingly accurate as printed. Just required a little trimming to fit accurately. However thje pre printed decking is less accurate!! Not sure what kind of measure was used by the 'computer generated printed self adhesive deck' but it wasnt imperial and wasnt metric!!! Its about 3 inches to short in length and at least hald an inch too narrow in the beam on each side. Of no use whatsoever!! I have contemplated using real planking but this would mean I need to remove the deck supports and reinstall them lower as in their currrent position the deck with planking will then cover the two hawse ports at the bows. So its gonna be deck painted and then planking lined on.

Have put her together now as a dry fit of deck with engine casing and its looking not too bad. All internals including servo are fixed firmly in place - shes been float tested and is water tight I now just need to install and test the servo linkage and do a motor run before sealing the deck into place. Once I have done that I will then spend some time on the MA/SB so that they are both ready to paint at the same time. I have yet to decide whether to paint the picket boat in Home Fleet or China Fleet colours. China Fleet does look nice for a change but humming and harring a little bit as black does hide the dirty from being sailed and white will be hard to keep clean. Hey ho save that for later!!!

[kiwimodeller]

Looking good so far. I am building a 50" version on a hull from Models by Design and have managed to gather up some info. There were many variations of Picket Boats as they were made over many years but the plans which came with the hull (drawn by N Ough), the photos in the Stapleton book on them, a cut away drawing by A Chiggiato and some photos I have of a real boat all show square transmon boats having the rudder mounted outside the hull on the back of the transom. The only boat which seems to have had the rudder mounted up through the bottom of the hull was the 46ft Admirals Boat as illustrated in Model Shipwright number 84. This version has a rounded counter stern. The cut away drawing in particular would be easy to scan and email to you. If it would help send me a PM with your email. Regards, Ian.

[mikearace]

Ian the pics I have seen also all have the rudder tiller on the outside of the transom.  The deans does have a false tiller to be mounted onto the hull to give the impression of the real thing - similar to their approach to the rudder arrangements for their WW1 tribals.   Not sure what pics you have got but you can get pics of the 50' version and info from the one thats preserved in Pompey.  You may have already researched this but here is some links anyway.

http://www.royalnavalmuseum.org/collections_boats.htm
http://blog.trafalgarwharf.com/2011/08/steam-pinnace-199.html
http://www.watersideproperties.com/news/wp-content/uploads/WatersideLife-winter10.pdf
(page 7)

Often see her on regular trips back to pompey but I never got round to pics of her as I didnt expect to build one until my daughter bought me it.     
There is also the Royal Oak Pinnace site.

http://www.hmsroyaloak.co.uk/pinnace.htm

[mikearace]

Have been working on the internals which are now fully fitted (just got to tidy the wiring up). All working fine althought the servo and linkage to the tiller arm was a bit of a trial and error to make sure nothing fouled the cabin when its inserted into its space. A few wear words were expended but eventually all working fine.

The deck has been fixed and when its dry there are a few small gaps that need filling as is usual. I willl then make the coaming for the engine casing. After that I will take a break from the picket boat and concentrate on the MA/SB

[mikearace]

I have done a few minor bits over the last couple of weeks before spending some time on my MA/SB build.

I have finished the porthole openings on the main engine casing. I havent followed the plan exactly as they are so many variations on steam picket boats that I used some artistic licence in placing them and I have also slightly varied where the hatch openings are because I felt like doing it!! The funnel and mast are now done but  the navigation lamp and small mast was a bit of a pain as the lamp has a soft metal hanger that is supposed to attach to the brass rod tube mast. One knock and it will be off and be more difficult to repair at that point!! So I used a small off cut of larger diameter tube which I placed over the actual mast and then put a smaller rod inside the extra bit and then drilled up into the lamp. Still not perfectly accident proof but it will be a bit more secure this way I hope. The main deck is also fitted now and the gaps filled in but I havent yet sanded it but when sanded down ready for painting the final few deck fittings will be been put in place.  I will have to give Deans a call at that point as there are some fittings in the trays that arent shown on the plans at all nor in the instructions.

The paint guide in the instructions is limited to the basics of the hull and deck and main features so I had to use some interpretation of my own. I decided to go with Home Station colours in the first place.  In picking out detail I worked on the principle that the early 20th century mob used to make sure all brass was polished and not painted like in later years.  So anything that was brass or potentially brass would have been burnished to a high shine.  And, although these were meant to be functional and an extension of capital ships weapons fits and maids of all work, as they were on capital ships they would be quite pristine.  Probably the exact appearance of ehr may now be wrong but that's my interpretation.

The engine casing needs a few small stanchions fitting and then the wood seats - the bearers are in place to support the seats and they will be varnished to give a little protection and also a little smooth sheen.

[mikearace]

Had a little spare time to fill in during my work on my MA/SB build so I did a little finishing detail on the Picket Boat. Wooden seats, seat stanchions etc and a little more painting when that was done. Engine casing is now completed