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Author Topic: in line fuse  (Read 5449 times)

olly49

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in line fuse
« on: January 26, 2012, 10:37:16 PM »

Hi to all,
I am a little confused, I would like to fit an in line fuse into my boat but should it be between esc/ motor or esc/ battery?
 Many thanks
olly49
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tr7v8

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2012, 10:38:27 PM »

ESC & battery, it is there to protect the battery & wiring.
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Jim

olly49

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2012, 10:43:23 PM »

I was told that it was to protect ESC.
Many thanks for reply.
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CF-FZG

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2012, 11:15:32 PM »

I thought it was to protect the boat :-))
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CGAux26

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2012, 03:11:30 AM »

I quit using inline fuses.  They seem to get just enough corrosion or something on the ends of the fuse to where the motor will not run.  Twist the holder apart, rub the fuse on your shirt, reassemble and all's well.  But the clip type has given no problems since putting them in two boats.  Still uses the cylindrical fuses.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2012, 09:13:56 AM »

I was told that it was to protect ESC.
Many thanks for reply.
Its there to protect the boat against an ESC failure.  Also against the owner connecting the battery the wrong way round.
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tobyker

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2012, 11:54:42 PM »

why would a fuse stop you connecting the battery the wrong way round? A diode maybe, but a fuse?
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DickyD

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2012, 02:18:02 AM »

Why it happens I have no idea, but connect the battery the wrong way round and the fuse will blow.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2012, 10:00:04 AM »

why would a fuse stop you connecting the battery the wrong way round? A diode maybe, but a fuse?
If you are reasonably lucky, the internal circuitry of the ESC will act as a forward conducting diode to a reversed power connection.  Without a fuse, the "diode" will blow, effectively killing the ESC.  With a fuse, and a bit of good luck, the fuse blows first, protecting the ESC, the wiring and the owners fingers.
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Subculture

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #9 on: January 28, 2012, 05:35:27 PM »

I quit using inline fuses.  They seem to get just enough corrosion or something on the ends of the fuse to where the motor will not run.  Twist the holder apart, rub the fuse on your shirt, reassemble and all's well.  But the clip type has given no problems since putting them in two boats.  Still uses the cylindrical fuses.

You can solder a fuse on directly to the wiring, then just cover the whole lot in a bit of heatshrink. If it blows, it isn't a huge hassle to solder a new one on, and chances are there is something seriously wrong anyway that needs further investigation. Takes up less room than a holder too.

john s 2

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2012, 05:38:24 PM »

For those that wish Mtroniks do sell a diode reverse protection unit a bit pricy. But will stop reverse connection problems. John.
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nsa66

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2012, 03:12:52 AM »

Does anyone know if the reverse protection unit is any more than a simple bridge rectifier.  These are available on ebay at up to a 35A rating for just a couple of quid (not much dearer at Maplin). I know there is a voltage drop across the diodes on these so is the Mtroniks version any different in that respect.
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ACTion

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #12 on: January 29, 2012, 08:28:42 AM »

For those that wish Mtroniks do sell a diode reverse protection unit a bit pricy. But will stop reverse connection problems. John.
But only if you connect it the right way round to begin with...................... why not just take a little more care to start with? Rule one in the ACTion Idiot's Guide says "Never work with a battery in circuit, and always check your wiring at least twice before connecting any power". How expensive is that?
DM
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RaaArtyGunner

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #13 on: January 29, 2012, 10:20:23 AM »

But only if you connect it the right way round to begin with...................... why not just take a little more care to start with? Rule one in the ACTion Idiot's Guide says "Never work with a battery in circuit, and always check your wiring at least twice before connecting any power". How expensive is that?
DM

I can see the title now

"Dummies for Model Boaters"

Published by Mayhem Publishing      O0 O0 O0 %% %% %%
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Welsh Wizard

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #14 on: January 29, 2012, 12:32:54 PM »

WELL all these expensive suggestions Why not do the SIMPLE IDIOTS way of Mine

1 Make sure the positive lead is either Painted RED or taped red or use heatshrink
2 Make sure Negative lead is Black

Batt Poss is PAINTED Red on the poss side and Black on the neg

Now I know some of you are colour blind out there and will obviously struggle with that system so why not try this system

Poss side place 2 tie wraps on Poss wire and on the Batt top poss side Glue 2 tiewraps on the poss side not 100% infallable but it would HELP


Dave
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CF-FZG

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2012, 12:41:09 PM »

I can see the title now

"Dummies for Model Boaters"

That's the one for some of the other threads :D :D
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CJ

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2012, 12:45:03 PM »

This is until the Euro wiring regs come in on model boats and we end up using brown and blue  %%
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ACTion

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #17 on: January 29, 2012, 01:17:26 PM »

Does anyone know if the reverse protection unit is any more than a simple bridge rectifier.  These are available on ebay at up to a 35A rating for just a couple of quid (not much dearer at Maplin). I know there is a voltage drop across the diodes on these so is the Mtroniks version any different in that respect.
I blowed if I'm going to shell out fifteen quid to buy one just to see what's inside, but I imagine it's a Schottky diode, along with a small resistor and LED to make it look pretty. The voltage drop across this sort of device is generally less than 1v. That said, if someone is dumb enough not to be able to connect a battery to a speed controller the right way around then how does introducing another device into circuit actually increase his chances of avoiding the Magic Smoke? Surely it's just two more connections to get wrong......................and beware of any/all high-current devices with no obvious heat-sinks.
DM
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irishcarguy

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2012, 07:27:57 AM »

Hi Dave, if you tape the ends of the wires tight the smoke should not escape should it,  Mick B.
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Mick B.

ACTion

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #19 on: February 01, 2012, 09:10:23 AM »

Hi Dave, if you tape the ends of the wires tight the smoke should not escape should it,  Mick B.
Don't stop believing, Mick. It's faith like that that oils the wheels of industry...................... ;)
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petermun

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #20 on: February 01, 2012, 02:30:25 PM »

Came in late for this one, but I once produced a Test Box for the bomb disposal `wheelbarrows` (Robots).   Because  we had some rather dubious operators, each pair of +ve and -ve connections went to a fairly high-current-rated bridge rectifier which cost no more than a couple of quid.   It must have worked well, because after17 years the original test box design is still being used by all bomb disposal teams.
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nick_75au

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Re: in line fuse
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2012, 06:42:50 AM »

Fuse between battery and ESC will protect the whole circuit, including the motor, If the motor stalls then the fuse blows.

Fuse value should just over the loaded (ie in the water) running current of the motor, not the stall current of the motor, which can on some high power motors exceed the maximum current of all but the largest ESCs IE a Speed 700 BB Turbo 9.6v has a stall current of 77 amps, 90 % of boats running this motor would be fine using a 20 amp M-tronics, a 70 amp fuse would not be approprate in this case ok2

Im fairly sure the Mtronics RVR is just a nicely packaged bridge rectifier, easier to use polarized plugs( though sometimes even these aren't fool proof Opps  :embarrassed: )

Nick
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