Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7   Go Down

Author Topic: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build  (Read 64038 times)

Netleyned

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,051
  • Location: Meridian Line, Mouth of the Humber
    • cleethorpes mba
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #75 on: March 01, 2012, 05:07:47 pm »

Tony
All you need for the instruments is a photo
that you can scale down and print
either on decal paper or just print
out and stick on and varnish

Ned
Logged
Smooth seas never made skilful sailors
Up Spirits  Stand fast the Holy Ghost.
http://www.cleethorpesmba.co.uk/

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #76 on: March 01, 2012, 05:17:01 pm »

Thank you Ned, unfortunately don't have any photos as such at the mo, but thanks for the tip, these are things I will certainly consider for the future. 

                              Cheers, Tony.
   P.S. do you get to any of the shows or Wicksteed Ned?
 
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #77 on: March 01, 2012, 06:39:24 pm »

Well if the threads to date haven't bored you yet, the next few bits might! - I'd like to think things may become a little more interesting for those not particular about this model ..................... but don't hold your breath!  {-) {-)

  Although a change may be as good as a rest, have decided to carry on with the cabin and superstructure for now. Next up was the dashboard (?) the desk thingy at the cabin front with the dials and operating parts.




Added strenghtheners / supports under the boxes


A part that was easier to remake than repair I think.




Handles were a bit close and wasn't going to risk bending them, so a couple of pop rivet heads did the trick.

Me and white metal don't get on {:-{ think I'm just too clumsy! O0 had to make a few more of these.

Looks a bit on the large side - but think they'll do.

The binnacle part looked a bit sorry for itself, there are supposed to be 3 mounting holes for attatchment to the base, but one of mine went awol so made a plasticard base that worked ok.







After doing the usual prepping to a few more cabin parts I wanted to play with me paint brushes, air brush and spray cans.  Haven't strictly followed the colour specs as stated as I'm a bit of a one for using colours I like -  :embarrassed: good job it's not a commission build! %% {-)

Have used all sorts of paint to date, hobby acrylics, Tamiya, Humbrol, Simonize, Halfords, Tetrosyl and Hycote - had to keep referring to the tips from this forum though, as to what was and was not compatible and which order to use them in. I have an old tin of cellulose grey metal primer that I've thinned down and used as a light primer 'dusting' on plastic - it bites in a treat without adverse effect and will take almost any paint on top.  Enough rattle - couple of pics to shut me up.


Because of the variance of fibreglass thickness around the front window openings, I struggled to achieve a nice even joint where the dash meets the cabin front, but hopefully in the next pic you may see where I bent thin plastic tube around the front edge of the dashboard, it covers any gaps a treat and throws enough shadow line so as not to be able to see any joint faults through the window.  I inserted some stiffish wire inside the tube to retain its shape during and after bending - was pleased it worked well. Right chuffed - good eh?  Got that idea from "Model Slipway" by the way!! (wire inside tube that is.)

The non-slip on the cabin floor is black coloured wet and dry paper stuck down with double sided tape and sealed with matt varnish, I'm really pleased with the effect - don't know if it's to "scale" but the grit looks pretty good I think - Still a happy bunny!





 .............. Ta ta, back soon :-))
Logged

nhp651

  • Guest
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #78 on: March 01, 2012, 07:10:02 pm »

that's looking great Tony.........

I sometimes find Daves fittings a little brittle.............and yet people moan when manufacturers put too much lead into the mix to make them more pliable, and not shatter"able"......we can't have it all ways I suppose, unless we go over to polyurethane fittings for all, and then such things as mast tabernacles where you need a little strength would have to be white metal............as for stanchions...I don't think polyU stanchions would work at all.

neil.
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #79 on: March 01, 2012, 09:01:31 pm »

 Hello Neil, nice to see that you are still following - feel a little honoured to be honest, you being a lifeboat extraordinaire and especially in light of the THREE you're building!  O0 Hope that doesn't sound patronising or think that I'm extracting the urine, don't do that.  Well ok, not now ...............but I do sometimes! (extract urine that is!) only when apt though.

Regarding white metal bits, I'm not calling them as such and certainly not criticising anyone for that matter, I understand and accept the logic of the material usage, at the very least I get a pattern to work to for remakes  O0 - some are very good, some just not up to standard for use, some broken and a lot I break myself! DOESN'T STOP ME HATING 'EM THOUGH  {-) Have broken that many of those pesky shackles and pins had to go cap in hand to Dave, received more with spares to boot, foc, bless him - so even he knows I hate 'em {-)

                                      keep up your good work, Regards, me.
Logged

nhp651

  • Guest
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #80 on: March 01, 2012, 09:32:37 pm »

I watch and look at every post you make Tony..................I am not by any means past learning from others........and don't pretend to be to be honest........in fact that is why I steer clear from modern boats as I know didley sqit about them........and to me it would be just a "kit" build following one part from another.......

not to say I don't like them, and would love to own a Tamar 1:12 scale........but to build one..........no thanks.

I'll keep watching and learning, and enjoy your build.
neil.
Logged

irishcarguy

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,371
  • Happiness is running from a grizzly and escaping
  • Location: Calgary N. W. Alberta, Canada
    • Britishcars International. org.
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #81 on: March 02, 2012, 08:43:07 am »

Hi Tony, The part you made is far better than the kit bit. I may be wrong but I feel a part like that should not make it into a kit. Some people will not possess  the skills to make a replacement & it may stop them from going on with the build. You are making a lovely job of the cabin interior too. Like Neil I try to read every tread each night & find I get lessons from every build good or bad. Mick B.
Logged
Mick B.

thebackways

  • Guest
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #82 on: March 02, 2012, 02:24:16 pm »

Good afternoon Tony, I'm so glad to see that someone has put a build log regarding the Alice Upjohn on the net.  I started mine at Christmas and its progressing slowly.  Thank you for posting such a detailed log and plenty of photos, which should provide a good guide.  I would say that Dave at Metcalf Mouldings is a top man as I also broke a couple of castings which he replaced FOC.  I will continue to watch with interest and if permitted comment on some of my mishaps or fixes, which may benefit others.

I would also like to thank Lance for posting the pictures of the Mary Gabriel as there is very little on the net, and I have spent many a long hour trawling through various web browsers.

Best regards

Dave
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #83 on: March 02, 2012, 06:04:29 pm »

Hello Dave, hope your build goes well and you get as much enjoyment from it as I am having. Please don't let me mislead you, or anyone for that matter, but as stated at the beginning I got well ahead with the build before starting to post - I'm not such a fast builder and wasn't sure if it would be of much interest but Dicky D ticked me off for not pulling my finger out and getting on with it! {-)
         Will be only too glad to help you in anyway I can so don't hesitate, please do keep in mind though I am only presenting my own experiences and what I have done, but it's a smashing voyage for me, really having to think, look ahead and learn to take nothing for granted - been loving it.

                                    Kind regards, Tony. :-))
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #84 on: March 02, 2012, 08:27:18 pm »

Started the inside lights now, made up a couple of holders and decided to use the notice board support posts for the contacts. Changed the ceiling mount for the supports (it was a wooden block) to a plastic box affair and soldered in spring loaded contacts made up from the tat box. Think the wires are strong enough?  :embarrassed: Made the notice board from placcy instead of ply and used the inside face of cardboard from a cereal box, which when painted, gave a nice grainy finish. Stuck on a few bits cut from a H&S mag for effect - still not sure if I'm struck on it now - but it's staying. As the metal backrest is also mounted on the supports I should have remembered to change the metal mounting brkts for plastic ones, I did think about it beforehand - but I forgot - remebered it when the bulbs blew though - ah well just another step back (keeps me fit?!)
     In the fourth pic you can just see a support for the front dashboard located on the superstructure below the centre window opening, its a bit of scrap and the hole just happened to be there!







        The mounting brkt for the radar dome on top of, and at the rear of the superstructure, looked off centre to me in one of the pics provided and a couple of parts seemed to confirm this, but another part didn't - (am I making sense? even I'm confused now! {-) {-)) ...............remember these?:

and here's the pic:

So.............


Yes it's meant to be central - Dave just likes to keep you on yer toes! O0
Made up the upper rear panel assy, added some stiffeners from scrap, and notched out for the mounting brkt in situ.



As It's the most likely area to hold when taking the superstructure on and off, although they don't show, I used belt and braces for fitting the brkt.
.

There's quite a gap between this upper panel and ceiling so added an inner piece to close it down a bit, which also helps to hide the extra suports and it'll be some where to tuck wires from the blue flashing lamp

The lower back panel was next, while manouvering I caught the rear side of the superstructure which caused a right good crack as it fell - great, over the b***y moon Jim!  think I'm a bit too clumsy for this modelling caper.
        So, anyway, as this panel may of been a tad flimsy I again added more more supports, stiffeners, fixings and by doing so increased the gluing area. Steady as a rock now, no flexing and extra support where the crack was, great, three birds with one stone.  While it was doing a headstand, I drilled two locating holes in the upper assy for the rear structure support frame, this gives me a bit of leeway when marrying up the curve of the frame to the back panel, made the side rods over length to accomodate - worked well so quite pleased.



And just to prove I can do camera tricks as good as Dave ......................


Finally for now, the rear support frame - don't be fooled - my soldering ain't that good - just getting quite handy with a needle file {-) {-) still a happy bunny! Ta, ta for now.





Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #85 on: March 03, 2012, 07:31:57 pm »

More pics to hopefully keep any interest and the flow of threads going.
        Started to do a few bits and bobs for a change, First up was the radar dome - vac formings cut using a scribe, pic 1, cut out and made up bits for the assy (2), decided to fit working lights so changed the mounting to accommodate, pic 3, and (4) shows dome assy, windows cut out and taped up (don't often scratch them - but usually get glue everywhere when fitting them!) oh, and there's another lamp holder for a light under the dashboard.







Making the superstructure roof hatch one of the hinge arms was broken, feeling a tad fed up I made the other one to match and then made a new pair with rivets for effect.





the capstan on the roof of the s/structure would,as Dave advised, double up nicely as the lifting off knob - glued a strengthening plate on the underside of s/st location and fitted a stud at an angle that suited the sweep of the roof, he was spot on!

The next pic shows the door frames and glazing, glued and taped up, the runners made to suit the doors and fitted in situ as a complete unit. I used plastic channel for the runners - so much easier than cutting out and using the individual strips provided.











Wanted to have working navigation lights so made trunking to fit to the cabin sides to conceal the wiring, made two right handed ones by mistake - didn't fit so made a left hand one as well {:-{ It was game enough having to open out the box section for the wires for the first two without doing a third - all's well that ends well.





Made the trunking for the mast lamps from brass tubing, 4 wires needed as one pair will go to a flashing gizmo bought from Action. Varnished/insulated armature wire helped me just make it, went in a treat, a bit tight but I'm not complaining.




and finally for now, wanted to make the searchlight work, but brightly, used an aluminium pop rivet head as both the bulb holder and a heat sink, (you may of noticed I've used the same method as bases for the navigation lights), then as stupid as it may seem I wired a 6v g.o.w. bulb to a 12v battery thinking it would probably blow immediately - it lasted for four hours continuously, a little darkened - but still works, absolutely incredible. A question then please folks, is this normal? was I just lucky and dare I use this for a punchy searchlight? here it is:




  Bye bye.
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #86 on: March 05, 2012, 12:05:51 pm »

Wanted to do the radar mast next. Marked out the feet locations on the superstructure and assembled the mast - a nice assembly in its own right this and most enjoyable to do, added some minor refinements but nothing too exciting.

Was really pleased that as yet (!) I haven't broken the white metal pointy bits - there's a first {-)



Something's doesn't look right the platform should be level with the waterline with the supports leaning forward at 89 degrees {:-{

Which ever way round the angled support bit under the platform is fitted it still isn't right


made a new piece to suit - that's better.


Marked out the position of the hand rails and hatch, I tried a bit of what may seem an unorthodox way of doing the rails in as much I marked out and drilled the location holes first, bent the rail to suit, and carefully marked the base positions on the rail. Holding the rail in the correct plane glued the bases on so that gravity would line them up vertical, I could then remove the completed assy for ease of painting, came out very well and was pleased it worked.







Cut out and positioned the engine room cover frame and drilled holes so that I can add pin heads for effect.
Marked out the positions for the capstan (lifting off knob!) and the black non-slip area. I made a template of this area and will use wet and dry grit paper as I did with the cabin floor.



Logged

nhp651

  • Guest
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #87 on: March 05, 2012, 12:20:33 pm »

It looks about 5 degrees out Tony..baring in mind that these boats were built by hand at the boatyard,, and no two boats were ever the same......do you think 5 degrees will matter.........
I certainly wouldn't stand at a pond side and have any idea that it was out if you hadn't told me.....and if someone did come along with that word of wisdom, I know what I'd say to them and it wouldn't be printable on here, {-) {-) {-)

neil.
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #88 on: March 07, 2012, 11:54:56 am »

Decided to add a few little bits of my own to the lower rear panel just to finish off the edges, used half round strip to give a nice top edge.



Marked out and drilled location holes in superstructure for the remaining parts, I always tend to add location pins to individual parts wherever possible, bit of a belt and braces thing but it's also a big help when glueing parts in position after paint.

          Rather than use the ply sheet as supplied for strengthening the superstructure, I stiffened up the sides with strips of plastic and added u shaped channels for cross bracing, very sturdy and they make very handy handles  O0 the first layer of placcy was glued to the fibreglass with contact adhesive, stuck really well without too much mess.

A quick blast of white primer now to see how she looks, the usual blemishes patched up with Humbrol filler and another blast.



The kicking boards and hand rail support sockets for the front deck were next after marking out all locations.  Thought I would make up the boards, bases and rail sockets all in go and fit as a complete assy - as follows.







Turned out not to be such a good idea after all - it didn't work! :(( a few bits cracked off while bending to shape but moreso because of the compound curve on the deck and the kicking boards being printed as parallel pieces, which I followed, they didn't fit properly. The lower edge needs to be shaped (concave?) and the top edge mirror imaged to it. Managed to crack off all the bits and started again, this time I fitted the boards first using solvent weld which allowed me to bend and glue a liitle at a time ensuring the boards followed the base curve but remained vertical. If the boards weren't upright then the hand rails would of looked on the squint - not visually nice. Once the solvent weld had hardened off I ran a thin bead of cyano down the base edges, if you're quick enough with a spray of activator a nice smooth welded looking joint without any gaps can be achieved - no filling needed.



 I found it easier to cut out and fix the non-slip deck surface before any other bits went on (wet and dry again) stuck down with double sided tape and masked up.

       To fit the front rope ring(?) flush with the front face, a fair chunk needs to be cut out of the stem post - not too sure if this is how it should be but I think it looks right. The top rubbing strip around the outer edge of the deck was glued in place and any gaps filled then rubbed down.

        Hope someone's still finding interest in all my waffle  {-) {-) {-) ta ta for now and regards, me.
Logged

Norseman

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,466
  • Location: Huyton, Liverpool
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #89 on: March 07, 2012, 12:56:58 pm »

Hope someone's still finding interest in all my waffle

Hi Tony

It's not waffle mate. I learnt something from your last post.
Selfish of me, but I hope you make many more mistakes   O0 {-) {-) {-)
Some guys do perfect builds that are lovely to just browse.
You (and Neil too) give me your experience to absorb - This is where
you will want to get bashful - please don't because this has been a
great thread for the inexperienced to follow.

When I can take the pebbles from your hand it will be time to leave the temple  {-) {-) {-)
(erm - you have to be a certain age to get that)

Dave
Logged

thebackways

  • Guest
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #90 on: March 07, 2012, 01:41:07 pm »

Good afternoon Tony,

Still following with keen interest.  My superstructure is slightly out of shape and I'm very interested in your method of bracing internally with channel sections.  Would it be possible for you to give some dimensions as to where these are positioned and their widths at the bracing points.  I'm not keen on scaling off the plans.

Regards

Dave
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #91 on: March 07, 2012, 03:31:30 pm »

Hello Dave and Dave  {-) Thanks Norseman I appreciate your comments, one of the first build logs I ever saw was Martin's - yes THE man  :} referring to his "my builds" on the Mayhem home pages, I thought they were brilliant. He told it all like it was with added humour thrown in, the mutts nuts in my book and right up my street O0 O0 As this is only my third model I really have made some right cock ups through my learning curve - more than I've posted I suppose and as many caused through haste, but in all sincerity the object of this log is to share it in a way that may perhaps help anyone who wants to have a crack at this model and also hopefully give a little back to the forum. I think its coming together quite well now and I'm at the point where I really don't want to make any major mistakes, as a fellow Mayhemer recently posted "I shall be punching the air if it comes right"! O0
         There are quite a number on the forum who are happy to share their pitfalls and disasters so that we can all learn, one that always comes to mind is a build of Tug Kenny's where at one point, despite concerted efforts of cock up correction, I'm sure he gave thought to making firewood  {-) {-) {-)  (can you tell I love these little animated faces). bye for now. :-))

P.S. yes I understand (Grasshopper?)
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #92 on: March 07, 2012, 05:19:01 pm »

Ooops, sorry Dave, (thebackways) I could measure what I did dimensionally for you, but don't think it will really help more than confuse to be honest. By the way you are quite right, DON'T scale anything off the drawings, treat them as a visual guidance only and be prepared to compromise what you see relative to actually positioning - this goes for most things and in fairness, there's a clear and vivid warning on the plan.  As a simple example, have a look at the position of the chair arm and compare it plan v plan - most things are like this.

Re the superstructure supports it really is a case of putting them where they won't foul anything, i.e. not too far back to limit access for the front bulkhead, not too far forward so as to foul on the front deck, not too high as to cut across the portholes and not too low as to foul on the side coamings, sorry but that really is all you have to consider. 

Having roughly measured an overall length for the side stiffeners and having decide 3 cross braces were enough, I simply marked a reasonable position one from each end then one in the middle. If in one particular area the superstructure needs pulling in or pushing out you can make use of the position and length of the cross braces to manipulate this. Mine wasn't bad so I didn't have to bother - but it's an option if needed.

If you do wish to stiffen up the sides as I did make sure you don't use a material so wide that may foul the coamings.
You could use wooden braces accurately cut to length, with the ends shaped to suit the curve of the superstructure and pin/screw into them from the outside. I couldn't be bothered to try so took the easiest way I could think of: marked where I wanted them, glued scrap blocks to the side stiffeners, cut the braces (which could be made of owt really) just under/overlength as required and glued them to the sides of the blocks, when happy glued another block to the other side to sandwich the brace between the two.

Oh!, if you follow this type of method, measure the depth of coaming and mark this dimension on the inside of the superstructure where the brace is to be located and fix slightly above it - not critical - but saves having to scrape some height off the coaming if your a tad low .................Guess how I know  O0 {-) {-)

Hope this helped rather than confused, kind regards, Tony :-))
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #93 on: March 08, 2012, 06:18:49 pm »

With the kicking boards now in place, next up was to fit the white metal support brkts. The back face and base of these are 90 degrees to each other which makes them a poor fit because of the curve of the deck. Using filler around parts like these is a bit faffy so off came the base locating pins, and then filed the base at an angle to suit.

Had a similar problem with the hand rail sockets, thought the top edge of these would look much better if parallel with the top of the kicking boards, but because the boards are slightly angled and shaped to the profile of the deck, then the sockets would follow the same profile and the rail holes would be slightly on the squint, i.e. not vertical.  If the sockets were located as supplied at the angle needed for the handrail upright to be vertical (as they should be) I think they would look awful. A case of take your pick then or -  "suit yourself" - (where'd I heard that before?! {-)) I chose to drill out the holes to suit and a halfway compromise of putting a slight kink at the bottom of the vertical rails where needed, the holes are a little oval at the top now, but will just have resort to using a little filler.  They look ok to me so I'm still a happy bunny.

To follow are a few pics of the work done on the handrails, which hopefully show all what I've been on about. To solder the rails I used an old but faithfull Weller 100-140w gun, chucks out so much heat very quickly it really is touch and go. O0









With only a couple of joints left to do the gun tip burned through - have you EVER seen a temporary repair as this?  rough or what   %% {-)- but it worked!

I found this whole exercise overall a bit fiddly, and had to pre-empt at times, but It came out in the end as such that I'm happy with it.


Logged

irishcarguy

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,371
  • Happiness is running from a grizzly and escaping
  • Location: Calgary N. W. Alberta, Canada
    • Britishcars International. org.
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #94 on: March 09, 2012, 10:12:42 am »

Hi TT, you can build railings for me anytime, but the gun repair was a bit ^*#%*&, enough said,L.O.L. Mick B.
Logged
Mick B.

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #95 on: March 09, 2012, 10:47:35 am »

Thanks Mick - would have been late for work so I had to rush a little %) {-) {-)
        Here's a couple of close ups that also show the mounting blocks for the fairleads, the top deck edge rubbing strake(?) and detail of the finish at the curved ends of the hull, the same method is used for the front and rear.
        Nice to know your watching - regards, Tony. :-))



Logged

DickyD

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,423
  • www.srcmbc.org.uk
  • Location: Southampton UK
    • SRCMBC
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #96 on: March 09, 2012, 05:45:17 pm »

Nice to see you are getting quite good at this boat building Tony. 
Logged
Richard Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club http://www.srcmbc.org.uk

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #97 on: March 10, 2012, 06:04:04 pm »

Thank you Rich'.
Continued by giving the front deck a quick blast of primer for a look see, quite pleased - no more filling needed here at least.



Added the side lifting plates and prepared the white metal lifting brackets, I have no idea what these do or how they're used, the plates were fitted as per the plan and I assumed the metal brackets were to fit tight against the hull side on top of the rubbing strake. To get a 'no gap' fit they needed a bit of rough (?) shaping pity such detailed craftsmanship can't be seen {-) {-) but they do fit a treat :-))



In the following pic which shows templates for the nonslip areas on the side decks (wet & dry paper again), you can also see where the holes for the bilge pump and filler plates were cut out. The plates are to fit flush with the deck and are supported by plastic bits glued underneath below the holes. The side decks ARE (as advised in the review) printed and numbered the wrong way round, however I wanted to take advantage of the printed positions rather than dare try to scale off the drawing, so I simply switched left for right and vice-versa, by doing this the hinged side of the filler plates face the wrong way, simples! just cut the notches on the other side. I forgot :embarrassed: not too bothered about a rivet or two, so they're staying  {-)

For the sake of adding a few pics, here's how I did the nonslip bits: place template on w&dry - the right way up and cut to match. Mask up face, turn over trim excess masking and apply double sided tape, turn over again trim off excess tape and remove backing. As long as the DT's don't set in they should adhere in-place ok.







Fancied doing a few bits for the rear deck now and started with the tiller arm, it's supplied as sheet ply with a template, but I preferred to use plastic.

 I added extra thickness for the tiller arm in order to match the width of the tiller socket and the arm stowage supports, also added a couple of handles to the supports to represent some sort of locking latches.

The drogue was a little fiddly to make up, it consists of 2 brass rings about 1x50 & 1x30mm dia and covered with material to form a cylindrical cone shape. I found the material supplied a bit small to work with so an old hanky sufficed. I soaked the whole thing in cyano and did a runner till the smoke and fumes cleared. %% after a quick shot of primer acceptable me thinks.



Having continued my affliction with white metal I had to make up new handrails and rope eyes

Following a trial fit on a piece of mdf board, I made a template from this to help accurately locate the 3 equi-distant holes for the drogue supports.

Marked out the nonslip area on the deck and followed same procedure as before.





Just a few more bits for painting, bye for now :-))


Logged

Norseman

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,466
  • Location: Huyton, Liverpool
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #98 on: March 10, 2012, 06:38:38 pm »

Hi Tony
I didn't know what a drogue was for so I looked it up
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drogue
So there it is for anyone else too

Dave
Logged

tt1

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,752
  • If I only know a little - then I can learn a lot
  • Location: Leicestershire
Re: Alice Upjohn my 3rd build
« Reply #99 on: March 10, 2012, 07:28:40 pm »

Hi Dave, that's exactly what I had to do!! {-) {-) {-) - good thinking on your behalf to post the link though :-)) cheers, me.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.121 seconds with 22 queries.