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Author Topic: Bryan's 'Modellers Draught' 45ft Admirals Barge build.  (Read 62344 times)

Bryan Young

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #100 on: July 04, 2012, 03:53:24 PM »

Thanks for that. At least your pic shows a sort of brown and not this horrid olive green stuff that purports to be brown.
Now, before I leg it (well, "car it") to Halfords ....I'll have to think of a car painted in a colour I wouldn't dream of buying!. Bryan.
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #101 on: July 04, 2012, 08:32:32 PM »


If it's a Brown spray tin you may well have difficulties. The choice is almost non existent Brian, as they no longer make Brown cars. They might have a 'make your own colour' department for the aerosols which could prove expensive.

If you want to go the brush way then B&Q have a mix your own selection at around £16 per tin. 

Cheers

ken

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Norseman

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #102 on: July 04, 2012, 08:49:50 PM »

What I remember was near the colour of this austin allegro - perhaps one shade darker
Please ask a mod to delete this post after you have looked at the colour
 

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Tug-Kenny

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #103 on: July 04, 2012, 09:12:28 PM »


You are correct.  The allegro is the only colour you can get these days. A bit disappointing that our boating hobby has such a range of browns that aerosols would be very popular in these shades.


ken
 
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Stavros

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #104 on: July 04, 2012, 09:16:55 PM »

Wasnt that Allegro colour Harvest gold


Dave
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #105 on: July 04, 2012, 09:34:02 PM »


There is a harvest gold shade of brown and I even tried it out on a boat. In the daylight it didn't look right.


ken
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Norseman

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #106 on: July 04, 2012, 09:47:48 PM »

Ken
I believe there is a place in St Helens that will put whatever you like in a rattle can - I'll get some details
Dave
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Stavros

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #107 on: July 04, 2012, 10:01:57 PM »

Halfords will mix any shade you need at put it in a rattle can for you same price as their ready done Aerosols


Dave
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Les

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #108 on: July 05, 2012, 10:56:43 AM »

Re Corticine

Tamiya Acrylic Matt XF79 "Linoleum Deck - Brown" 81779 any use?

Les
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #109 on: July 05, 2012, 10:59:39 AM »


Hi Stavros.

Is that right ?  That's great news.  Thank you very much.    :-))

cheers

ken

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Bryan Young

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #110 on: July 05, 2012, 11:16:01 AM »

Wow! Sounds like the bees-knees tis time!. I'll let you how I got on later this afternoon.
You know, every time I've had a query / problem / mental blockage etc. someone has come up with the answer. Sincere thanks to all those who've used a few brain cells. Bryan.
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Bryan Young

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #111 on: July 05, 2012, 05:19:22 PM »

Right. Scarpered off soonest to get some of this Lino Brown. Only to be given a (friendly) lecture about the Tamiya policy of not putting the stuff normally found in aerosols into little glass tubs. Similarly, the stuff found in glass jars is not found in an aerosol.
Being advertised as a "Deck Brown" and given that decks tend to be of a rather large area this weird policy seems self defeating. But when needs must and all that.....
The actual colour is spot on. The downside is that the paint dries so quickly it sometimes seems as if the paint has dried on the brush before it gets to its target. I'm beginning to wonder if this paint was really formulated for air-brush work. In which case I've dipped out as I sold my Badger ages ago when I got fed up with the constant cleaning of the thing. The days before Acrylics came ito use. And I'm certainly not going to buy another just for the cabin roof.
    I've done something else with the cabin woodwork.....but I'll keep that until I post the next "mainstream" item.
Thanks for the help Les. Regards. Bryan.
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Bryan Young

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #112 on: July 06, 2012, 12:00:55 PM »

Another £10 yesterday (“Lino” paint, 3 new brushes and a sheet of Plasticard. Now up to £400.
For some time now I’ve felt a little unhappy with the lacquered finish on the cabin. Not really “bad” in real life, but photographs seemed to emphasise the grain of the veneerand gave the finish unwanted highlights.  So I decided to give the entire exterior a good rubbing down with steel wool. The lacquer is still there of course, but the highlights have gone and the finish is as smooth as glass. Especially after a going over with Mr. Sheen spray polish. I was a bit uncertain about using this as the polish contains silicone and so another coat of lacquer would probably be a mistake. But everything is fine.  But I’m going to have to get another jar of the Tamiya “Lino” paint….and ask advice about thinning it down. That should enable me to get a better finish on the roof.
And on that note I’m going to give the cabin a “rest” for awhile. Still plenty to do on it, but making up some of the fittings might (read “will”) be difficult.
So I’m going to at least make a start on the Engine Room / Boiler-room casing.
This is a big “lump” at 15” x 5.5”. That’ll keep me occupied.
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Bryan Young

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #113 on: July 11, 2012, 11:28:03 AM »

Let work begin!
But before that, may I just repeat that so far all construction work on the cabin ( and eventually this casing ) will have been totally built using only one tool….a Stanley knife. With a little assistance from a steel rule, a flat, small warding file and various grades of abrasive paper…..and a few hole drilled with the little Proxxon thing. The bad saw and all the rest of the heavy armament will be used later. I could have used other tools, but just now and again I get the impression from some members that they think a fully equipped workshop is vital. But enough of all that.
       The 1st photo shows the plan view of the full casing clearly showing the difference in size between that at deck level and the level that the funnel sits at. So it’s the tapering sides that is a bit of a problem. Wouldn’t be too bad if the sides were flat and the corners squared off, but as you can see…they aren’t.
As I wish to make this entire unit detachable (access, again), I need to build it with a flat (horizontal) base with the side pieces aligned to fit, but also taking note of the considerable deck sheer. The “white” part will be cut off and used to make the sloping side panels. The “green” part is the vertical (and visible) part of the unit and the “red” part will remain attached to the green but will eventually slide into the rather large hole yet to be cut into the deck. Photos 1 and 2 also show how I intend joining the main parts together. Basically copying a fairly common system used in plastic model kits….slots in one part and keys in the other. Except this is into wood. Hopefully this method will mean that I can assemble the unit before glueing the thing permanently together.
     I think I’ll leave it there for now as I haven’t yet worked out how to describe the next stage!
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Bryan Young

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #114 on: July 14, 2012, 05:56:46 PM »

And slowly, but surely, do we progress.
With Mrs.Y away for a week in warmer (hotter) and drier climes for a week I can fill the bath and play with the hull stability and weights to my hearts content.
I must admit to being more than a little surprised how little weight needed adding to bring the hull down to its waterline…although the waterline I marked was just a rough one with a large felt-tip marker.
So it’s back to making “things” as light as possible.
It’s probably obvious when given a little thought, but when looking at the hull shape out of the water it isn’t immediately realised just how much of the after end is not part of the natural buoyancy of the hull. The spoon-shaped stern takes that prize. In fact there’s very little of the hull aft of the cabin area that actually touches the water. So I’m looking at probably 7” of hull that does nothing except look pretty. And 7” is 1/7th of the hull length. So only 43” of the 50” hull is “functional”…and the after underwater body is pretty fine as well. Again, not really evident until the hull is in the water. So it seems as if a total AUW of 20lb or even less is probable.
     In the past, for all my models, I’ve used Lead-acid batteries. But now I’ve been advised to consider Ni-Cad packs …running at 12v. I’ve had absolutely no experience whatsoever with ni-cads, so any advice here would be more than welcome. Charging the batteries is one of my educational needs. As is cost against lead-acids….and weight of course. I’ll ask around at the club, but I’d also appreciate any input from mayhemers.
During the coming week I should be in a position to show more construction of this devilish engine casing. Be a doddle if it was either a vac-form or a GRP moulding.
Weight, weight, weight. Haunts my dreams. Continue later with some pics. BY.
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vnkiwi

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Re: the start of a new build
« Reply #115 on: July 14, 2012, 08:22:16 PM »

Nice build Bryan.
Following you all the way.
Try NiMh batteries, as they are a step up from Ni-Cad's, and don't suffer from charging restrictions and memory issues that Ni-Cad's have.
Used Ni-Cad's upto around 10 years ago, and only NiMh since.
cheers
vnkiwi
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #116 on: July 14, 2012, 08:49:36 PM »

 
Topic renamed.  :-)
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Bryan Young

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #117 on: July 16, 2012, 03:49:53 PM »

Well, it may be an infinitesimal step for mankind, but it’s a huge step forward for me.
Pic 1.
These are (obviously) the array of component parts for the lower portion of the long casing. The slots may appear to be randomly spaced…but they aren’t. I’ve tried to avoid putting the uprights in way of “stuff” that will be eventually fitted to the deck part of the casing, mainly because I don’t want the (yet to be fitted) cross members being obtrusive if I decide to have some hatches etc “open. Still some final trimming to do, but so far the method seems to be working.
Pic 2
This is the whole lot just sort of clipped together, no glue or anything as yet. I’m going to use Araldite to fasten the whole thing together…I think it should be the “slow curing” sort as all kinds of trimming and adjustment will be needed.
The projecting “ledges” down each side will be eventually cut off and faired in. They are only there to prevent the side panels getting out of shape . The “tabs” being constrained in their slots.
Actually, once I worked through the idea, the making of the bits was quite straightforward. Careful marking and cutting being the order of the day.
   And now for the rounded corner pieces.
Up to now, all the bits you can see up to the level where the sides begin to slope inwards, are vertical. So I’m going to use 1/32” ply. The first layer will be bonded to the inner surfaces of the parts adjacent to the corners, and bent (curved) to fit. When all that is nice and tight, the intention is to laminate 2 more layers of 1/32nd ply to fill the 1/16” thick space…..all too difficult to describe. That’ll all come later on.
   So, time to make another seat cushion for a bit of light relief!. Bryan.
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Bryan Young

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #118 on: July 16, 2012, 03:51:03 PM »

Ooops. Sorry, got the pics in the wrong order! BY.
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Bryan Young

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #119 on: July 19, 2012, 05:33:06 PM »

Right. First things first. Reduce the outlay by £25 to a new total of £375. So I have £25 of credit to “play with”. ( ‘cos of returned items).
I mentioned the disparity between “Araldite” and the B&Q “alternative” under a more general heading. But now (at last) I seem to have a casing platform that I can develop into something approaching my goal. Curved corners included! It all seems (at first glance) to be pretty square ..but time will tell.
To be honest, even after all this work, I’m still not absolutely sure that this will all work.
Why?
Because it’s more usual to build any sort of superstructure into a model after the deck has been laid. I’m doing this one sort of upside down. And then I’ll get the deck to fit the superstructure rather than the other way around. Makes some sort of sense to me, but it may all end in tears. But I’m an optimist at heart.
    The seats are now nearly completed. Thank goodness. The only remaining bits of the cabin interior are the LED lighting layout (and on/off switch) and the little table where the Admiral can park his briefcase.
19th of July. Last night around 10pm a dusky maiden arrived on my doorstep proclaiming to be my wife returning home after a week in Cyprus. I was only convinced of the truth when the kitchen was inspected  (and passed). This lightened my spirits somewhat as earlier that day I’d fallen for a computer scam that was worrying the hell out of me. All to do with computer security. So ruddy plausible and the “repairs” to my machine took 3 hours…all under the control of this “Microsoft Technician”.  I’m not usually a dummy about these things, but it was so absolutely believable. I stopped the payment (too embarrassed to reveal how much) and cancelled my debit card. Barclays said they were aware of this scam and knew of at least 1,500,000 (!) cases of this scam being successful. Microsoft are aware of the scam but refuse to get involved quoting “Freedom of access to the Internet”. Fortunately (and a fact that I was unaware of), payments by Direct debit are held by the bank for 3 days before payment is made. So I think I’ve been lucky…although still a little shell-shocked by the sheer professionalism of the scam. Beware!!!!
       But on with the motley.
Add £4 to the total, now back up to £379. (B&Q epoxy).
As with all things made from plywood, regardless of thickness, some items need the ply to have the grain running lengthwise, and other bits need the grain running “across”. OK, I know that remarks like that are self-evident to experienced builders, but my not be so to less experienced folk.
The 1st pic is of a bit of 1/32” ply being used as a backing for the later layer of  1/16” ply forming the corners. Both of these are “cross grain”. The 1/32” stuff bends by itself, the 1/16” ply laid over the backing won’t bend so easily, so in the time honoured fashion, it needed to be “scored” to make it more flexible. Pic 2 shows the result. I’ll remind you here that all of this structure will eventually be clad with plasticard…so no filling of faults (of which there are many).
I just couldn’t resist doing this “mock-up” pic….just to show me how it’s all starting to come together. One needs a little fillip now and again.
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Grumpy Dave

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #120 on: July 23, 2012, 09:56:44 PM »

Cheers Bryan, I guessed it would be somewhere but I haven't found my way around yet. So much to look at. Your model is well out of my league at the moment. Beautiful. The stern is different on my hull. Re Dolphins, you could find a jeweler to make one for you, it might not be too expensive, try a local art school. GD
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Bryan Young

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #121 on: July 26, 2012, 04:26:06 PM »

    Another unexpected setback yesterday. I found out that during “curing” of the epoxy holding the E/Rm casing together the structure had warped a little….the side panels had sprung outwards a little, so I’ve had to glue and pin some cross braces into the thing to bring it all back into shape. At the same time I realised that simply epoxying (?) the sloping top panels to 1/16” ply wouldn’t be good enough. Even though these side panels are not weight bearing (and so made from 1/32” ply) they do need a decent anchorage. A greater gluing surface was made for each “frame” by simply gluing in some short lengths of “L” shaped plastic and putting a bit of 1/32” ply over the top of them. Seems to work OK.
      The “white” stuff is 30 thou plasticard wrapped around the bottom part of the unit. As usual, this is fixed in position with double-sided tape.  Honestly, using a large (£4) roll of this stuff saves a fortune in glue…especially when used to permanently stick down sheets of the plasticard.
    But now I’m into a “Chicken and Egg” position. Whatever I do is going to adversely affect whatever I decide to do next.
The main structural priority is to make and fit the tapering but curved 4 upper corners. But I can’t do that until the sloping side panels are fitted. And if I do that then fitting the main part (the deck the funnel and all the rest of the gubbins sits on). Such are the woes of the mentally retarded scratch builder. I think it’s going to have to be a “suck it and see” situation. So the sloping side panels will have to be fitted next.
Finally managed to find some of the “New Formula” Araldite Rapid today. Thank goodness after some of the rubbish I’ve been trying recently.  £14 down the drain just to tell me what not to buy (that includes the “twin syringe” thing marketed by Evostick. This may be OK, but not for model making as it delivers copious amounts of resin and a tiny amount of hardener. Too much for most modelling applications. Pricey as well, at £9 a go. The “new” Araldiite is exactly what I needed.
The scuttle holes were drilled out before the outer plasticard sheathing was stuck on.
The curved and inwardly sloping side panels went on reasonably well with a bit of  of sanding to do when the epoxy was set.
But now to the corners.
Everything I tried was OK at the bottom end, but the radius at the top seemed insurmountable. Then I remembered that I had a sheet of alloy mesh left over from long ago. Moulded in like a dream. The pic shows the mesh before final fixing. I intend using strips of ply to sandwich the mesh to the sloping sides.

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Circlip

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #122 on: July 26, 2012, 04:40:14 PM »

Might have been easier to make a plug and drape mold styrene sheet over it Bryan?

  Regards  Ian.
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Bryan Young

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #123 on: July 26, 2012, 05:08:31 PM »

Ian,
Some unmentionable Caledonian has also said he used a similar method to your notion. But being instictvely averse to whatever he says....I decided to hav a go at something both quick and easy that takes zero skill and (dreaded word) "work".
The alloy mesh is dirt cheap, forms to jus about any shape you want, and makes for a superb "backing" for whatever else you may wish to stick on it. And through it. But as I said. This is another experiment that may or not work. I think it will work. The corners aren't exactly load bearing, more decorative in a model. Just have to wait and see how it pans out! Thanks for the thought, anyway.  Bryan.
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Circlip

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Re: Bryan's “Modellers Draught”. 45ft Admirals Barge build.
« Reply #124 on: July 26, 2012, 05:20:16 PM »

Nah, I meant for the whole cabin, not just the corners. Nother thought for the Dolphins, if you carved them in a hard wax, I have the address for someone who does lost wax castings.

  Regards  Ian.
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