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Author Topic: D Class Boat build  (Read 16027 times)

ids987

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #25 on: May 02, 2012, 05:02:12 PM »

I think I'll just use acrylic with an aluminium strip on the top of it, should do the job. A small strip of heatsink under the pipe might help matters, too.

Andy :-)

If you've really got 1/2" clearance - between the pipe and the lid itself, I don't think you'll have a problem. I know gas pipes get hotter than nitro, but the pipe on my AA boat, is close enough that I can only manoeuvre the pipe into position if the jubilee clip (pipe clamp) is the right way up. If the worm drive is pointing anywhere near downwards, the pipe won't line up with the header. The clip is also more than halfway back along the radio box (much less clearance further forward). The only time I've had any heat related problems, the jubilee clip was clamped up against the lid, and the lid has an impression of part of the jubilee clip.
I doubt that any of my boats have as much as 1/2" clearance at the front of the radio box.
The lid material I mentioned is polycarbonate (AKA Lexan or Makrolon). It is tougher than acrylic/perspex. I know I've got at least one bit which is big enough. Drop me a line with the size of the box, and I'll measure up.
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #26 on: May 02, 2012, 10:12:33 PM »

Done a little more this evening :-)

Firstly I drilled out a hole in the transom for the stuffing tube to pass through, the exact diameter of the tube itself. This is a nice tight fit in the hole, making things easier to align later on. I then got the flexi and inserted it into the tube, and used it to bend the tube to shape. This happened pretty much first time in line, so I then set about moving the propshaft support. this is now around half an inch away from the end of the tube, and holds it perfectly in line.

Next job was to mark up and fit the stinger on the boat, then epoxy the stuffing tube in. Last bit for tonight was the drain hole in the upper left side of the transom.

Up next will be the bottom of the radio box, this will need to be re sealed to the new shape of the stuffing tube. Then I can start filling it with goodies...

Andy :-)







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martno1fan

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #27 on: May 02, 2012, 10:34:54 PM »

Andy you made a mistake by epoxying your stuffing tube in,now you have no adjustability no up and down movement,most people just slot the hole in the transom and seal it with silicone that way you can move the stinger if needed.
Mart
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #28 on: May 02, 2012, 10:37:50 PM »

Never fear, I've tried it and it still has a good few degrees of movement :-)
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martno1fan

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #29 on: May 02, 2012, 11:45:47 PM »

Been fixed now means that any movement of the stinger by adjusting the screws means your cable is now binding against the tube which is now fixed tight,far better to leave it loose at the transom for this reason.
Mart
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ids987

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #30 on: May 03, 2012, 02:03:02 PM »

I'm with Mart on this one Andy. Although it won't make much difference when you adjust the angle of the stuffing tube (unless you bend the stuffing tube to follow the angle of the stinger - which you sometimes have to do anyway, for more than slight adjustments), you also, ultimately, want the facility to be able to move the whole stinger up and down. As a general rule of thumb, leave at least two inches between the transom, and where the stuffing tube is fixed. As it stands now, it should be fairly easy to chop some of the epoxy away. Perhaps even more importantly, when you rebuild the bottom of the radio box, make sure you leave clearance there. Different props will work best at different heights. The chopper props, for example - which are becoming popular for fast monos, are designed to run on the tips of the blades. They are reckoned to run best with the centreline of the prop ~25% of the prop diameter above the vee; so a 70mm prop would have the centreline about 17.5mm above the vee (or ride pad in your case).
I know that; with a nicely fitting hole for the stuffing tube, and nice small holes for the stinger fixing bolts, you can't adjust the stinger upwards as it stands, but those things can relatively easily be adapted. If the stuffing tube is fixed solid all the way, and there's no clearance under the radio box, it will make life much more difficult.......
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martno1fan

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #31 on: May 03, 2012, 04:09:48 PM »

In my opinion take it out and open the hole in the transom into a slot up and down so you have at least 1/2"-3/4" of adjustment, as said above you will at some point need to lift the whole stinger for certain props to get the best out of the boat.
Herse a good tip also instead of fixing the actual flex tube into the hull get the next size up tube cut a short length and fix this in and slide the propshaft through this that way when you need to you can easily remove the tube and replace it.Fix it in with a good quallity silicone no need to glass or epoxy it,the t bar holds it firmly and the other end slides into the stinger so its going nowhere.
Mart
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ids987

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #32 on: May 03, 2012, 05:39:47 PM »

In my opinion take it out and open the hole in the transom into a slot up and down so you have at least 1/2"-3/4" of adjustment

Pretty much what I do for a strut setup. Most stingers though (or most that I have seen anyway), only have adjustment for drive angle (ie not the actual height). So as well as slotting the stuffing tube hole, you'd need to slot all four screw holes. I have one each of 1/4" and 3/16" stingers, and they're both like that. I think Andy's is too. Also, the stingers which I have don't slide onto the stuffing tube like struts do. The hole is wide open, so the stinger doesn't support the stuffing tube at all.
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martno1fan

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #33 on: May 04, 2012, 06:45:33 AM »

Pretty much what I do for a strut setup. Most stingers though (or most that I have seen anyway), only have adjustment for drive angle (ie not the actual height). So as well as slotting the stuffing tube hole, you'd need to slot all four screw holes. I have one each of 1/4" and 3/16" stingers, and they're both like that. I think Andy's is too. Also, the stingers which I have don't slide onto the stuffing tube like struts do. The hole is wide open, so the stinger doesn't support the stuffing tube at all.

Not sure what stingers you use but if the holes bigger ive used a bigger diam tube or tubes on the end of the prop tube to make it a snug fit once im happy with the angle as it will reduce adjustment a bit,probably not needed though,but yea i agree slot the holes for the screws on the stinger also i use a thin piece of carbon or ali plate inside the hull  keeps things neat and tidy and better than just washers.
My personal favourite setup is a simple strut i find them better for adjustment especially up and down when raising the whole setup but stingers def look nicer.
Mart
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #34 on: May 04, 2012, 07:57:51 AM »

Duly noted, but I'll leave it as is for now.. :-)

Martin, I prefer struts too, but the doner boat for this project had a stinger on it so I used that :-))
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martno1fan

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #35 on: May 04, 2012, 01:38:49 PM »

No worries Andy by all means try it and see how she runs m8.I find the 7015/3 prop hard to beat for performance and handling on a mono.
Mart
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craig dickson

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #36 on: May 04, 2012, 07:39:49 PM »

Hi Andy

Thanks for the further photos as I love to see a boat build process in pictures - they always speak louder than words.

I am interested to know what you are going to use for boat buoyancy. Especially buoyancy towards the mid section and transom should the boat fliip over and filll with water.
 :-X
Cheers
Craig
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #37 on: May 08, 2012, 04:40:57 PM »

Craig, I'm going to be using either pipe lagging or pool noodles, certainly one piece of pipe lagging though as I'll be running my lanyard coiled up through it.

Today, I've drilled the last remaining holes (lanyard, grab handles front and back), sanded the hull down, then primed and painted the deck. You can see yourself in it at the moment... Just hoping the >>:-( flies don't use it as a runway as usual

Just about to give Mr Model Lettering (Barry) a line as to getting some vinyls sorted for it.

Andy :-)







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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #38 on: May 08, 2012, 06:13:53 PM »

And here's where we are with the masking removed :-)

Oh, and yes, the flies did land on it >>:-(





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craig dickson

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #39 on: May 08, 2012, 06:49:57 PM »

That looks Fantastic Andy :-))

Cheers
Craig
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #40 on: May 08, 2012, 08:57:16 PM »

Cheers mate :-))
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patternmaker

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #41 on: May 08, 2012, 09:03:15 PM »

Great build Andy, looks very good, that is going to one fast boat.

Regards Mick
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #42 on: May 08, 2012, 09:12:36 PM »

Thanks Mick :-)

The decals have been sent off to Barry (Barry's model lettering, fantastic Vinyls both off the shelf and custom, and all round top bloke) for cutting. Not saying what they are yet, but they are, shall we say.. Different?
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scoop

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #43 on: May 09, 2012, 09:07:29 AM »

Hi Andy, I see you use Halfords car paint....great stuff to work with, lurvely looking boat,  :-)) you've put some time in on that one  ;)are you intending to race it ?

Scoop
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scoop

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #44 on: May 09, 2012, 05:59:18 PM »

Hi Andy

Out of interest I am in the build process of a Prestwich Thunder with a Zen7. Unfortunately it I believe can not qualify for BMPRS racing. I've just fitted the engine and prop tube.

I will be very interested to see further photos as your build progresses :-))

Cheers
Craig

Oh this is mine so far:


Have a word with us Craig and we will tell you how to make your boat comply with the 50mm rule  :-))
Regards
Scoop
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #45 on: May 09, 2012, 07:38:29 PM »

Hi Andy, I see you use Halfords car paint....great stuff to work with, lurvely looking boat,  :-)) you've put some time in on that one  ;)are you intending to race it ?

Scoop

Thanks very much mate.. I may as well have shares in Halfords, I've got more cans of the stuff than our local...

I am of course intending to do the odd race with it, though not majorly competitively :-)
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graham

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #46 on: May 09, 2012, 10:43:50 PM »

did any more flies use your boat as a runway  {-)
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #47 on: May 09, 2012, 11:31:17 PM »

Yes mate, they did.... Thankfully, they decided to land where there's already vinyls going anyway, so not too much of an issue %)
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Andyn

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #48 on: May 12, 2012, 09:40:42 PM »

The sticky bits arrived from Barry today, so here you go :-))

Work on the boat will hopefully continue tomorrow...



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patternmaker

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Re: D Class Boat build
« Reply #49 on: May 13, 2012, 09:56:01 AM »

Hi Andy,
That looks superb, with regard to your stinger, in this months Model Boat magazine by Stewart Rae (SCOOP) building
a D Class Navaho running a Sikk 27, like you he permanently fixes the stinger as I have done many times in my builds.
I have building sports and racing boats for over 40 years, now I build steam models a lot more sedate.

Regards Mick
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