Thank you Nick: 28 mm Victorian sailors are indeed rare.
Wiring RebuildRebuild inside the hull is progressing slowly, incorporating some design improvements.
Replaced motors as old ones were water damaged. Internal hull clean up, matt white paint, plus cleaned and re-greased all shafts.
Main 6V SLA has to stay as Kondor motors are 6 to 9.6V, plus 12V SLA’s of similar Ah tend to be very much larger.
3 hour minimum run time retained.
Rethink for Mister. I am now using the smaller MMB 24V Mister so I can have 2 x 10 pack NiMh packs in the same compartment as the Mister.
A weight saving of 250gm less water almost compensates for the extra 10 AA cells added.
Removing one of the old 12V packs, plus the bulky step up converter, leaves one dedicated 12V NiMh pack up for’ard to run the new air pump and better spec air valve.
It did mean some rework on the completed control panel as now three voltages involved, although same number of battery packs. Additional 24V charging socket fitted. The starboard c/o switch now uses one pole each for the 12V and 24V. (Port c/o switch is for the 6V).
Improved layout for the for’ard compartment [below] after losing one of its battery packs. Some sculptured Neoprene to nestle the larger items in place.
I wish I had done it like this the first time, but you live and learn.
FoggyThe smaller MMB Mister runs for about 40 mins instead of 80, but still draws a little over half an Amp so it just means bringing it alongside to syringe a measured amount of water down the funnel to rekindle the ‘puff’. It has an internal cut out for low water level.
PlumbingI had filled the four brass vent tubes with Blu-Tack before lining the ballast tanks, so they were easy to clear with a 4mm drill bit.
Re-plumbing the pneumatics was fun, space being limited as you can see. New tubing and fittings of course.
I just have the air valve and Hunter bilge controller to install, then into the bath for ballasting adjustments.
Bob K