Topic: Kenny builds the FAIRMILE D (Read 27177 times)

DickyD · « **Reply #25 on:** May 31, 2012, 04:39:32 pm »

Looking good Ken.

Dont moan about the angles, my last one was all angles, near drove me barmy, but funny enough I actually enjoyed doing it.

Just take your time and cut out cornflake packet cardboard templates first, it saves on plastic.

Keep it up.

john44 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 31, 2012, 06:29:52 pm »

you are doing an excellent job Ken.

john

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #27 on:** May 31, 2012, 07:48:42 pm »

Quote from: DickyD on May 31, 2012, 04:39:32 pm

Just take your time and cut out cornflake packet cardboard templates first, it saves on plastic.

Thank you Dicky, what a great idea. How did you know I ruined so much plastic.

I have never thought so hard as this one. It's going very slowly, but we're getting there.

I do have a problem with the open deck aperture, however. That cabin block is the only large hole I can make in the deck for getting at the insides. I have been thinking about a larger base plate to fit in a recess, but I might get water ingress problems. Has anyone ever thought of a complete deck removal system to join around the top of the hull ?? That way, complete access to everything below decks would be possible. ?

Built the machine gun emplacements today but not much to show for it at the moment. Have to leave it now as I'm preparing for Wicksteed weekend and working out what will fit in the car. OOOOH!!! it's exciting.

ken

DickyD · « **Reply #28 on:** June 01, 2012, 12:36:06 am »

I have same problem with access on several of my boats Ken.

What I do is to make a hatch cover level with the deck over the bits I might want to get to on an irregular basis [servos, rudders, motors etc]

I run a thin bead of bathroom silicone around the hatch cover and weight it down till the silicone dries. I do not use too much silicone but just enough.

If I need to remove hatches then a thin blade under the edge of the hatch will split the silicone with very little trouble.

Old silicone will rub off easily and can be replaced as before.

Hope this helps Ken.

Peter Fitness · « **Reply #29 on:** June 01, 2012, 03:23:08 am »

I made a similar hatches on my Armidale and my Sentinel, but instead of using silicone I used a thin smear of petroleum jelly (Vaseline). This seals the hatch, but allows it to be removed very easily. Provided the deck paint is sealed with a clear finish any excess petroleum jelly wipes off cleanly. To date, no water has entered either hull via the hatches.

Peter.

gra2 · « **Reply #30 on:** June 01, 2012, 08:23:03 am »

Hi Ken
Go to mayhem section painting,finishing and care.
Click on subject Fairmile Dark Scheme.I have enclosed a photo of my hatch details.
Hatch line is hidden by rear torpedo tubes.

Gra

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=25052.msg302479#msg302479

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #31 on:** June 01, 2012, 09:58:47 am »

Once again, 'Mayhem comes to the rescue'.

Thank you for all your ideas. It's the way to go. When I build the deck I will sink in these recesses for a flush fit.

I do like your build blog, Gra. A lot of useful angles shown, as my plans are two dimension it gets difficult to work out the 3D view, but we're getting there. Looking forward to building the Oerlikon mounting.

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #32 on:** June 25, 2012, 12:09:56 pm »

Still working on the 'finish' of the Hull and applied yet more paint. As it's looking more like a boat nowadays my thoughts are turning to the motor system.

Can anyone recommend what type of motors I should fit please. Four will be needed to fit width wise and these will have to be lined up with the four prop tubes before cutting the hull can proceed.

I'm hoping that this boat will be the fastest yet so we are looking at getting up on the plane.

cheers

ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #33 on:** August 31, 2012, 04:51:51 pm »

I have been working on the hull finish for ages. Just cannot seem to get the planking flush and seam free. I've lost count of the number of coats of paint there is on her now.

Every time I look at the hull it seems to have grown more blemishes every night.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #34 on:** August 31, 2012, 05:05:35 pm »

Today I got out the power tools and ground the whole lot off again. The surface is now nice and flat once again.

I have been debating what to cover it with and have decided to go the fibreglass route.

Any tips please ?

Stavros · « **Reply #35 on:** August 31, 2012, 05:17:37 pm »

PM SENT

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #36 on:** August 31, 2012, 05:35:10 pm »

Replied
and autograph sent.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #37 on:** September 02, 2012, 05:17:13 pm »

Well, I've had a chat with my paint advisor and purchased new 'stuff'

It's a filler made by U-Pol and it's lighter than P38. Plastered it on yesterday and spent today sanding it down. The hull was then sprayed with filler primer and here's the result.

Must say I'm quite pleased with how it's going and have a few 'dings' to refill to complete it, but on the whole it's coming along great.

Stavros · « **Reply #38 on:** September 02, 2012, 05:20:19 pm »

Good nice one Ken you can fil those slight imperfection with the new filler and they will simply dissapear and you will have a very nice smooth hull

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #39 on:** September 02, 2012, 07:24:02 pm »

Certainly will. I'm very pleased with this filler and I want to produce a flawless hull for a change.

Stavros · « **Reply #40 on:** September 02, 2012, 07:31:14 pm »

Ken I keep telling everyone about it and everyone says HUH it is far to expensive, Nothing is to expensive if it saves you time and effort to do a proper job

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #41 on:** September 02, 2012, 07:34:12 pm »

I agree with you, and using this premise, I also bought the Filler/Primer in a great big tin.

I did find I was using up all my sandpaper as it was clogging when used dry ! but it's all done now.

Cheers, me ol paint splasher.

Stavros · « **Reply #42 on:** September 02, 2012, 07:44:01 pm »

What You could allways do is to buy D/A discs in 80/180/500 YES I know htey are expensive BUT weigh up hte costs involved they would last for years and they dont clog as easy as wet/dry

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Discs-6-DA-Discs-Velcro-Mirka-SANDY-180-Grit-box-100-/270775662618?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3f0b7cb81a

Just put DA discs into a ebay search if you do decide to get some then go for the velcro type as they dont clog as easy

Dave

Andyn · « **Reply #43 on:** September 02, 2012, 07:49:21 pm »

Those things are absolutely brilliant, reminds me I need some more myself

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #44 on:** September 02, 2012, 08:35:49 pm »

I had a look and they look just the job for my workshop. I shall have to get the gun as well.

Cheers for your help.

ken

Stavros · « **Reply #45 on:** September 02, 2012, 09:35:25 pm »

Quote

I had a look and they look just the job for my workshop. I shall have to get the gun as well.

Cheers for your help.

ken

Kenny what do you mean get the gun idea for my workshop

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #46 on:** September 03, 2012, 11:23:45 am »

Isn't that what they call the sanding disk holder. I've been looking and they appear to be Air driven. I do have a compressor but it's a bit noisy.

I'm going to the shops to search out these devices as I notice they have a 2 inch disk model.

Thanks for your help so far. I've just filled some of the holes and now waiting for it to dry.

ken

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #47 on:** September 03, 2012, 11:36:53 am »

I hope thats a typo? otherwise I'm sure its not something one wants to discuss in an open forum lol

Thanks for pointing that Essex. I've managed to correct my spelling in time.

ken

Norseman · « **Reply #48 on:** September 03, 2012, 02:37:51 pm »

I have reread and then imagined the said typo

-

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #49 on:** September 03, 2012, 04:20:18 pm »

It's probably better to imagine it.

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Author Topic: Kenny builds the FAIRMILE D (Read 27177 times)

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