Topic: Weathering helpline. (Read 10497 times)

unbuiltnautilus · « **on:** July 04, 2012, 09:52:42 am »

Okay, open this up to the members. How about a helpline along the lines of "I want to replicate this effect on my model, how should I do it?"
Suggest posting a photo of a full size weathering 'bit, i.e. rusty bollard, oil stains, tarnished deck etc, and ask how to?
Lets see what we can do to help the members add that little bit of extra realism to their models.....

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #1 on:** July 04, 2012, 09:56:57 am »

I'm about to start doing the crew on my huntsman... would a how to on painting realistic flesh details etc be any interest to anyone?

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #2 on:** July 04, 2012, 10:54:39 am »

What a splendid idea for a thread

I will shift a mixture of isolated tips gleaned from members on previous posts
over to here, so that they will all be in one place.

ken

Guy Bagley · « **Reply #3 on:** July 04, 2012, 10:59:00 am »

kim belcher does some lovely figure conversions for lifeboat modellers, he was doing deomonstrations at warwick on figures for all to see....his painted figures are very very nice...

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #4 on:** July 04, 2012, 11:12:44 am »

I doubt mine will be that good but I'll see what I can come up with

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #5 on:** July 04, 2012, 12:00:15 pm »

I've started moving separate letters from all over the FORUM to here.

Quote from: unbuiltnautilus on June 30, 2012, 10:30:05 am

http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t791-submarine-weathering-masterclass-by-alan-taylor
Heres one I did previously....
Painting the Red October to follow on this forum as soon as I get a chance to put it together, meanwhile Krafty needs to get the paintbrush out again. Lets see some dark washes and pencil plating detail next.

triumphjon · « **Reply #6 on:** July 04, 2012, 12:22:36 pm »

as opposed to reams of words , actual photos with discriptions would be far more helpful to all of us

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #7 on:** July 04, 2012, 12:35:25 pm »

I'm working on it. It's not easy you know

Ken

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #8 on:** July 04, 2012, 03:02:26 pm »

This is a great book for anyone wanting to learn about weathering techniques http://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Weathering-Martyn-Welch/dp/1874103119 Although railway based, the techniques can be applied universally.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #9 on:** July 04, 2012, 03:09:01 pm »

Here's a link to a previous article.

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2299.msg22505#msg22505

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #10 on:** July 04, 2012, 03:21:11 pm »

Another link to a weathering article

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12591.msg119822#msg119822

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #11 on:** July 05, 2012, 02:26:20 pm »

Quote from: essex2visuvesi on July 04, 2012, 09:56:57 am

I'm about to start doing the crew on my huntsman... would a how to on painting realistic flesh details etc be any interest to anyone?

http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=17851&p=1
I found this thread on a military modelling forum, very good detail on the shading of a figure as well as an interesting use for pigment powders. mind you, they would need a waterproofing coat to stop the first wave washing them off!
I am sure there are other, more detailed, articles referring to flesh colours etc, as it is a bit of a black art.
One piece of advice I once read related to the way light and dark would fall across a face. The modeller replicated this by placing a light off to one side of his own head, then using a mirror, replicated the shading and highlighting effects that he saw in his own face. I have tried this, it works but I have yet to perfect it....

Footski · « **Reply #12 on:** July 08, 2012, 12:59:31 pm »

Right, I thought it was my turn to have ago. I have now moved onto the weathering of the hull of my tug "Craig". The first thing to do is distress the paint. I did this by lightly sanding the raised areas and those areas that would naturally get banged about during normal use. Then using weathering powders as seen on the workbench together with the brushes you can see, I applied some dark browny green powder to the upper works, brushing the excess off and then rubbing it in with a finger.

This was followed with the lighter rust colour where needed, again rubbing off excess. Where I wanted more colour, I simply wet the area first, then apply the powder, which sticks better and then when dry, brush and rub the excess away so there are no sharp edges left. Any areas that appear overdone are then gone over with a black powder in the same way as the first powders were applied. I rubbed in some black and brown powder to the bulwark capping to give it an aged appearance. This is not finished yet by a long way. I have many other coloured powders to give various effects, including a deeper rust look which must be used sparingly. Still I am quite happy with the start and if enough are interested, i will post more as I go along.

Footski · « **Reply #13 on:** July 08, 2012, 03:48:21 pm »

Port side started. Getting better I think. Same process, just a little more weathering..

Footski · « **Reply #14 on:** July 10, 2012, 12:49:22 pm »

A little more done on the weathering side of things. Main superstructure has been dirtied up a little and the hull above waterline just about completed except for the sealing top coat of matt varnish. Constructive criticism is more than welcome. I may have too much or two little weathering. Please feel free to give ideas..

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #15 on:** July 10, 2012, 01:04:23 pm »

How would you go about painting peeling paint? For example Footskis wheel house..... would like to get the effect that it had been painted and the planks are now peeling

2051476 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 10, 2012, 01:41:44 pm »

Have a little question about the word varnish on this thread, since I speak American English,(amazingly two English speaking country's separated by a common language), is this real varnish or a decal hiding top coat? I'm about to start painting my Robbe U47 and will add decals from AMP. My concern is what to use as the finish coat to hide the decals sheen, my local hobby shop keep pushing lacquer based product which I'm concerned about water and lacquer. Someone suggested polyurethane. Any ideas
Thanks John

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #17 on:** July 10, 2012, 01:52:09 pm »

Quote from: essex2visuvesi on July 10, 2012, 01:04:23 pm

How would you go about painting peeling paint? For example Footskis wheel house..... would like to get the effect that it had been painted and the planks are now peeling

Okay, is that peeling varnish on bare wood, or peeling paint on bare wood, OR peeling paint on paint?
The brain cells are ticking in anticipation

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #18 on:** July 10, 2012, 02:06:13 pm »

Quote from: Footski on July 10, 2012, 12:49:22 pm

A little more done on the weathering side of things. Main superstructure has been dirtied up a little and the hull above waterline just about completed except for the sealing top coat of matt varnish. Constructive criticism is more than welcome. I may have too much or two little weathering. Please feel free to give ideas..

love the superstructure, especially the effect on the light timbers. Maybe add a muddy scum line along the waterline, it needs a little bit of something on the hull, just not sure what...
Muddy scum lines; A mid tan/brown enamel ( Humbrol?) thinned down a bit with white spirit ( enamels take longer to dry, gives you longer to work.) Stipple it on with a small, stiff, possibly flat brush, along the waterline. Then spread it about a bit with a piece of kitchen roll. If it all looks a bit 'hunger strike' when applied, you can thin it down on the model with a clean brush dipped in clean white spirits, the brush only needs to be damp, not neccesarily wet ( unless its a real mess! ). Takes a bit of practice to get the look just right but its worth it.

Footski · « **Reply #19 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:24:22 pm »

Quote from: unbuiltnautilus on July 10, 2012, 02:06:13 pm

love the superstructure, especially the effect on the light timbers. Maybe add a muddy scum line along the waterline, it needs a little bit of something on the hull, just not sure what...
Muddy scum lines; A mid tan/brown enamel ( Humbrol?) thinned down a bit with white spirit ( enamels take longer to dry, gives you longer to work.) Stipple it on with a small, stiff, possibly flat brush, along the waterline. Then spread it about a bit with a piece of kitchen roll. If it all looks a bit 'hunger strike' when applied, you can thin it down on the model with a clean brush dipped in clean white spirits, the brush only needs to be damp, not neccesarily wet ( unless its a real mess! ). Takes a bit of practice to get the look just right but its worth it.

Thanks for that. I haven't really done waterline and below yet. For that, I am going to turn the hull over, before attacking it.....gently of course..

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #20 on:** July 10, 2012, 04:38:16 pm »

of course! I would expect no less...

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #21 on:** July 10, 2012, 05:14:04 pm »

Quote from: unbuiltnautilus on July 10, 2012, 01:52:09 pm

Okay, is that peeling varnish on bare wood, or peeling paint on bare wood, OR peeling paint on paint?
The brain cells are ticking in anticipation

well I was thinking peeling paint on bare wood but paint on paint sounds interesting as well

Any chance of both?

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #22 on:** July 11, 2012, 02:41:56 pm »

Following a fevered evening over lolly sticks, I present the following...
Flakey Paint for beginners.

I made up two test pieces, one for paint and one for varnish. The painted one was primed with a all purpose primer, the varnished one was left un-sealed. Using Copydex and/or Maskol as masking mediums. These were stippled on to the area using a coarse scourer and the applicator brush in the Copydex

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #23 on:** July 11, 2012, 02:47:06 pm »

The masking fluid is dry within an hour. The painted one was then coated with Tamiya Gloss Black, simply because it was fast drying, and gloss to contrast better with the matt grey underneath.
The bare wood test piece was first wood stained, then varnished with Humbrol Gloss Cote.

unbuiltnautilus · « **Reply #24 on:** July 11, 2012, 03:00:28 pm »

Once dry, its time to start removing the masking fluid, this is best done with a pencil eraser. Small, stuborn bits can be removed with a cocktail stick, suitable shaped lolly stick, scrap of balsawood etc.
So, success on the paint, but not happy with the varnished look

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Author Topic: Weathering helpline. (Read 10497 times)