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Author Topic: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)  (Read 6767 times)

romainpek

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A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« on: April 24, 2007, 02:48:08 pm »

Hi all,

I did not want to parasite Tigertiger topic anymore so I started my own. I'm trying to build a MJW as well and I'm also a bit isolated in China. Moreover, he seems to be much more experienced than I am... good for me ! he can thus help me !

The first problem I had was about the rudder construction. The instructions showed that the rudder cheeks should cover half of the rudder shaft but I built the rudder flush without leaving the necessary space for the shaft...

I had to groove the rudder back so it could accomodate the shaft partially. I plan to strengthen the bond with brass later (it will even look cuter)
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2007, 02:52:59 pm »

The second problem I ran into was the gluing of the wooden false keel on the plastic hull.

The wooden keel is straight, the plastic one was quite concave.

The solution was to hold the wooden keel in the middle, cover it with glue, then apply a strong pressure in the middle of the plastic hull. I put my 2 bags of lead shot in there (intended for the sailing fin bulb) during the curing of the glue.


p.s. : I do not consider that my choice of colors is a problem.
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2007, 03:00:26 pm »

then, surprisingly, a step that was worrying me went very well : the making of the fin + bulb. The bulb is hollow plastic, the fin is plywood. The bulb is filled with a hachis parmentier of lead shot and resin.The only difficulty for me was to find the filling resin. And wake up early enough so that my wife would find out too late that I was perfuming the whole house (again...)
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2007, 03:03:46 pm »

I forgot to mention the gluing of the deck beams inside the hull. It was not too difficult except for the need to force the hull to shrink on them (they are narrower than the hull at rest naturally).

No pictures of the dozens of rubber bands needed to hold the hull side tight on the beams. This step was before the gluing of the keel.
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2007, 03:11:40 pm »

Then massive headache yesterday evening... that's what I wrote on Tigertiger post...

Basically, the instructions tell me to cut my wooden keel at 2 positions, in essence to free the fin slot which is supposed to lie between the cuts.

The first cut is measured at 11 1/2" away from the aft end of the keel.

I measured once, twice, thrice (how to say "4 times" and "5 times" in one word ?) but to no avail : the instructions are telling me to cut my keel inside my slot... instead of at its edge.

I reported on the keel the position of the slot (it's easy to see because my keel is not quite glued on the plastic at this place, remember the concavity of the hull ?) with this white piece of paper. And see my ruler : 11 1/2" is about 3/4" inside.
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2007, 03:16:40 pm »

Inside the hull, I had glued the mast foot holder according to the instructions, centered 8 3/8" away from the aft end of the boat. See how close the slot is from the foot mast holder?
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2007, 03:21:29 pm »

One of the problems is that in between the mast foot holder and the slot, I'm supposed to glue a "fin trunk", which side is 1/2" thick. Check with me, I have only 1/4 left... 
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #7 on: April 24, 2007, 03:34:42 pm »

So basically, I'm saying that either:

1) I keep on mis-measuring several things...

2) Or the slot in this hull is not where it should be. It should be about 3/4 to 1" further front.


Then if (2) the big choice :

A-should I adapt the kit to the slot (will the boat sail as well in the end ?)
B-or should I modify the slot so it matches the instructions ? (provided I can find a kind of glue that bonds well with the ABS hull)

Please Tiger or others... if you have a suggestion...  ???
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tigertiger

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2007, 03:43:53 am »

Lets eliminate things one by one.

Starting with the big Q

I have measured my hulll
From the rear of the plastic hull, measured externally, it is 9 7/8 (nine and seven eighths) inches (approx) to the rear of the keel slot.

What do you have?
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2007, 07:35:21 am »

 :) good idea !

I'll measure tonight like you did (from the aft end of the plastic hull up to the slot) + the length of the rudder post at the back along the keel.

Thanks a lot, we'll find out soon !
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2007, 01:09:45 pm »

measure taken :

along the plastic hull, from back corner until the slot : 9" 3/16
same line, along the glue line of the wooden keel and rudder post, from the plastic corner until the end of the post : 1" 9/16

So I have 11/16 difference in my hull from yours...
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tigertiger

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2007, 03:13:46 am »

The keel slot does appear to be in the wrong place.

You need to speak to George at Victor Models.

He is not good at answereing his emails.
I had a problem with a part and I called him on the phone in the end. Then I got  response.

As George designed the model, and I think makes the hulls etc. he should be best to advise you of the best way forward.
If indeed you can place the keel 11/16 further back without effecting handling. Remembering this is not a racing yacht.

I myself would be inclined to push for a new hull.
If you email him send photo evidence. I think this is more tangible for him.

Good luck
TT
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2007, 01:00:53 pm »

I decided to modify my hull so it matches the instructions (silly, isn't it ? Like modifying the landscape so it matches the map).

I also decided that I would cut a slot in the wooden keel instead of cutting it.

That's why you did not see new posts here for a while : It's a very boring job to grind a slot into a 3/4 by 3/8 woode keel that is already glued to the hull. So as it was boring, it took me very long.  :-\

I'm happy to say that the epoxy (needed to fill the previous slot, then I decided to put some everywhere around the fin box) is setting right now.
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tigertiger

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2007, 01:14:18 pm »

Good to see you are back on track.

TT
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2007, 03:39:36 am »

Today, I'm busy making the scuppers  :)
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #15 on: July 01, 2007, 04:10:22 am »

But... stupid me... I forgot to add a spacer the thicknedd of the deck before drilling... the lower part of the scuppers will be partly covered by the deck...  :(
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2007, 03:40:06 am »

I decided to build the rigging before the deck.

Here are the 2 sail gaffs. Cute aren't they ?
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2007, 03:45:13 am »

but I have a question for the booms. The boom slots are obviously much shorter than the arm of the brass "tubular fitting" (= gooseneck).

Tiger, did you clip the arm or lengthened the slot ?

(also the arm is supposed to have a hole that is missing on mine. No big deal but it's not the first time this kit and the instructions diverge)
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2007, 01:47:34 pm »

Here is where I am tonight...

Better with masts !
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tigertiger

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #19 on: July 19, 2007, 10:37:11 am »

but I have a question for the booms. The boom slots are obviously much shorter than the arm of the brass "tubular fitting" (= gooseneck).

Tiger, did you clip the arm or lengthened the slot ?

(also the arm is supposed to have a hole that is missing on mine. No big deal but it's not the first time this kit and the instructions diverge)

Hi Romain

It looks like you have a 'Monday morning' boat.
The slots on mine were long enough.
My goosnecks were drilled. But I needed a replacement one and it was not drilled.
The goosenecks are definatley the achiles heal of the MJW. I have one bent on delivery, and two snapped at the solder join. One before final assemble and one since.

As you suggeted George of Victor models may be concentrating on other more popular models.
I have had other small issues with undrilled parts or wrong size timbers.
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #20 on: August 25, 2007, 06:17:37 am »

After a month under the rain in Europe, I came back from my vacations.

Here is the rigging going on. I' m trying to add a little square sail on the foremast and I will probably lower the jib compared to the original plan. Maybe fit 2 jibs like Tiger did ?
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #21 on: August 25, 2007, 10:04:35 am »

I could not resist and I did a flottation test.

Success ! Not a drop of water inside, despite the keel box is below sea level.

My son gives you the scale...

(the square sail yards are being stained at the moment)
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tigertiger

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2007, 02:35:37 am »

Hi Romain
how is MJW build coming on.
NOw the winter will be upon you soon you cannot play with the kayak, too cold
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2007, 03:59:58 pm »

I'm slowly planking the deck.

I first have to cut the veneer in 1 cm wide planks, then 28 cm long.

The wood is alisier in French (beam-wood in English ?)
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romainpek

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Re: A second Mary J Ward (built in Beijing)
« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2007, 04:04:28 pm »

Then I have to glue them.

CA did not work with this wood, it would impregnate it and leave ugly unsandable glue marks. Finally I'm using wood-glue, problem is that it curls the planks with its humidity, then takes hours for drying. I use a plastic ruler + clamps, I glue one plank in the morning, one in the evening.
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