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Author Topic: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'  (Read 14107 times)

Landlocked

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #75 on: December 06, 2012, 12:00:39 AM »

I'd go with 6mm. Gives you more meat/surface for fasteners and more forgiving of inadvertent bumps. 


I only rough cut out the interior of frames so there's more strength while I'm fairing (usually by sanding with strips of sandpaper glued to a flexible batten). the outer edges to the bevel angle for the planks.  Once things are fair, I dismount them from the building board and thin them down.


 Ken
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #76 on: December 06, 2012, 06:20:47 AM »

Hi Landlocked, good idea re fairing then trimming down the frames, thanks

Wayne
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roycv

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #77 on: December 06, 2012, 10:31:19 AM »

Just to follow up from landlocked, you can partially cut out the frames before fitting, then just cut through the remaining notches when planking complete.
good luck
regards Roy
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #78 on: December 06, 2012, 12:18:23 PM »

Thanks Roy, My frames are drawn with hollows inside, some are connected all the way across the top (is underside of deck) others have a partial deck beam on the sides and are open in the middle - I will post pics when I get home - I will cut most of them out and leave a few which may be a bit partial to bending when pressure is applied while sanding

Hopefully get some timber on friday and get cutting over the weekend

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #79 on: December 09, 2012, 08:33:46 PM »

Cut out most of my frames, another 4 or 5 from the centre of the yacht to go. Still got to tidy these up too

Wayne



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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #80 on: December 14, 2012, 08:47:13 PM »

Frames fitted to building board, they still need to be sanded true. I put them up to display at our club display this sunday

Wayne

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roycv

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #81 on: December 15, 2012, 09:40:49 AM »

Hi, looks good.  The slots for the keel look a little narrow.  The keel needs to be wide enough to allow the  ballast weight to be secured in the hull.  You can double up the keel at the top of the keel fin, but imagine that you hold the hull at 90 degrees with the keel ballast straining to break the keel fin.  The keel ballast is frequently bolted through (2 bolts)  to a strong point in the hull like a well supported platform just inside the hull.  I have used studding a bit thicker than M4 and clamped the keel in place using wide washers to spread the load.  You only need nuts with the studding, (I think I got mine from B & Q) and cut it to length.
I think this system is easier than using  long screws as you drill all the way through, or leave a space for the studding (2 off) to go through.
Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs!

Another point that can be done too quickly is locating the deck edge stringers in the bulkheads.  Cut the bulkhead corners very carefully allowing for the bend and curving of the wood.  It may be easier to laminate two lengths together.  Go for a finish where you do not have to sand most of the stringer off to follow the curves of the bulkheads.  You can get the wood to follow the curves by immersing in hot water and pinning in position until dry (use a hairdryer to speed things up). 
I have used metal clamps on the stringers to shape using the twisting of the weight of the clamp.  I tend now to use dress makers pins with the plastic coloured bobble on the end for securing.

You can double up here for the shrouds points as well.  Also consider whether you need any extra deck beams to support the deck and where you might wish to fit access hatches, e.g. over the rudder stock.
good luck it looks a very good start.
regards Roy
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #82 on: December 15, 2012, 11:47:53 AM »

Hi Roy, not teaching me to suck eggs as this is my first boat build ever, so any guidance is welcomed.

My keel slots are 6mm, I was going to cut the keel 'stringer' out of 6mm ply, same as the frames - What about if I glued strips each side of the keel 'stringer', between each frame? What is the keel fin? by this do you mean the actual bit that comes out below the boat? If so I still need to deepen this as per my drawing earlier (see the pink and yellow parts increasing the size of this) - I forgot to draw them on when I cut the frames. I am going to cut off the three parts on the frames and make up a new separate keel 'fin' which I will slot into and bolt onto the hull - My plan was to get the basic shape of the keel 'fin' using frames and then fill inbetween them with lead sheet epoxied together. I would then shape the lead to the frames, epoxy and paint. This should give a nice lot of weight low down.

When I drew up the frames I drew up the stringer positions, I noticed the deck edge stringers needed a fair bit of shaping on their bottom edges as they came away from the hull quite a distance (on some frames not all, mostly around the bow). The top of the stringer, ie the bit under the deck is fully within the frame except for one or two near the middle where the hull curves back intowards the centre. I ordered some 5x5mm balsa stringers which should arrive next week, so I can play around then.

Yes must not forget shroud points, thanks

As for access you can see the main hull access in the photo. At the stern the yacht has a drop in cockpit which I can remove to access the rudder. I was toying with the idea of connecting wires to the rudder that will turn the wheel as the rudder moves, but this will get in the way when trying to remove the cockpit.

Thanks for your help

Wayne
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roycv

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #83 on: December 15, 2012, 02:56:57 PM »

Hi, 6mm keel is fine.  just strengthen around where the keel fin joins.
I would not use balsa for the bulwark / deck edges.  B & Q sell 6mm square hard wood which puts a lot of strength into the hull.  Balsa for me in this context is somewhere for the glue to adhere to.  I think I would cut the slots for the hard wood stringers so that they were parallel with the bulkheads.  This would leave a small amount to sand off at the deck level.  Use the balsa as filler with a good glue.
My experience has been use the best wood you can for the hull, it will be reliable.
I renovated a small yacht built in the early 1950's from nice seasoned wood, it had a sealed deck and I had to cut it open to install RC (owners request!).  We have an endoscope in the club and the wood was perfect.
regards Roy
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #84 on: December 15, 2012, 05:04:03 PM »

Thanks Roy. I will strengthen around the keel fin - Now I was going to cut out the keel and keel fin as one, fit the keel fin frames and fill the gaps with the lead sheet - This would do away with the need to bolt the keel fin on - Does this sound OK or would you make the keel fin a separate item?

You mention cutting the stringer slots parallel with the bulkheads - Not sure I follow. I have put in two pics below of two of my frames, one from near the bow, the other near the middle of the yacht - You can see the top of the stringer is drawn inline with the underside of the deck. As you can see in one the stringer juts out from the frame and on the other the stringer is completely within the frame which I assume is wrong - Any suggestions please/

I will pop down to homebase or Jewsons to see what I can get, I don't have a B&Q near me (well its 30m away and we aren't going that way for a while.




Cheers

Wayne
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roycv

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #85 on: December 15, 2012, 05:39:52 PM »

Hi Wayne the way you have drawn it looks fine.  There is plenty of meat left in the deck stringers.  I think you are doing the right thing.  It is easy to lose the mass of the wood in sanding it to fit.  You have to have enough left to plank onto, also to retain the shape of the hull.

The model boat I have in construction now (not a yacht) has virtually no wood to sand away as I have twisted and bent the wood to fit.  There is tension in there which I have tried to relieve through wet fitting and pinning in place and twisting the stringers into shape by the hanging clamp method.  I may have a photo somewhere.

I would favour the keel and ballast as a separate item bolted in, but I expect there are several ways to do this, I try not to have wood  very low down, better to have lead.

I expect there are others who would like to comment?

regards Roy

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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #86 on: December 15, 2012, 06:08:52 PM »

Cool thanks Roy - I just realized I need stringers along the edge of the deck to line the access hole in the middle of the yacht too.

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #87 on: March 11, 2013, 06:05:58 PM »

Progress to date is that most of the slots for stringers are now cut and filed to size, I need to angle some of them so the stringer fits in better. I also seem to have an issue with one or two of the frames being out of alignment along the keel. Photo to follow soon hopefully.

I do have a question re the keel, I had planned on cutting this about 6mm deep based on the plans (out of 6mm ply) but I wonder now whether this may not be deep enough, any thoughts please?

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #88 on: April 10, 2013, 09:20:07 PM »

OK so I forgot to photo progress to date, will try tomorrow

Can I get away with 1 layer of 3.2mm lite ply or should I got with two, or even two layers of 2mm liteply, all to be fibreglassed in and out

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #89 on: April 11, 2013, 05:24:17 PM »

Progress photo attached, keel loosely fitted as I am still sorting out the slots - Took delivery of a permagrit spar slotter today, boy is that a nice tool, might get some more permagrit bits when I can afford them.

Wayne

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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #90 on: May 12, 2013, 04:07:17 PM »

Progressing slowly, two set of stringers fitted, one more set of balsa stringers then the hardwood stringer at the deck edge, also working on beefing up the centre of the keel for the keel fin fitting

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: Stand off scale yacht 'Force 8'
« Reply #91 on: May 15, 2013, 09:58:28 PM »

Hi All - Not sure whether I should plank this boat with 1/2 layers of 1.5mm ply or 1 layer of 3mm balsa - Any thoughts please - I will be planking it longitudinally and I will be glassing the hull once planked. - Just got to add the deck level stringers and I am ready to plank

Thanks, Wayne
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