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[Stavros]

Yes Ken I will advise as regards the ripples on the hull,What Nordlys should have really done was to have taken the advise given in the paining section and if the hull would have been filled with the filler I advised the hull would have been as smooth as a baby,s derriere so to speak,and is so easy fixable even now.

This is what I would do to get a smooth hull.
Rub down the Hull with 80 grit paper DRY to achieve a good key
Fill the hull end to end and rub down yet again with 80 grit using a RUBBER block having first coated the hull with Matt Black so you can see the indentations,fill and rub down till all the black guide coat dissapear.
Give the hull a THIN coat of filler and rub down with 80 grit firstly and then change to 180 both papers used DRY and defiantly NOT wet.

Apply 3 coats of filler primer and rub down with 500 grit paper and use DRY


When rubbing ANY hull down to paint it is of PARAMOUNT importance to do this DRY as WET rubbing WILL allow water to be drawn into the primer and also any parts of the hull that has bare wood IRRELEVANT if sanding sealer has been use of it has been coated with resin,as it is practically impossible to guarantee a 100% coverage of resin as it will be of varying thicknesses on the hull and also it can be porous as well.

This is WHY I ALLWAYS advise DRY rubbing,it is something that has BEEN proven in the motor trade as it will in time cause Micro blistering which in fact is caused by moisture.Yes there are members on here which will say WELL IT WORKS FOR ME But I personally know and a few of you on here will also agree that what I say is perfectly true as you are in the motor trade yourselves.


Dave

[Nordlys]

Did I miss a posting from you Stavros? Must admit I didn't refer to any posts
in other sections of forum.
However, yes all my work on the hull was done 'dry' before and after glassing.
I think basically the finish I acheived seemed to be pretty good prior to the finish
coat of gloss colour - then the imperfections became a bit more noticeable
Thats where I am now after quite a bit of work on the hull this last week!

I've lost the will to strip it down again.......

Your advice is noted though...thanks.
Nordlys....

[RAAArtyGunner]

I've lost the will to strip it down again.......

Your advice is noted though...thanks.
Nordlys....
[/quote]

I think that will not be necessary,

Stavros' clear, step by step instructions, are how to "finish/rectify" your hull.

At the end of the day it is your call.

[pompebled]

I have applied 3 coats of sanding sealer in readiness for the glass fibre cloth and resin which will
be going on tomorrow.
Nordlys...

Hi Nordlys,

I haven't followed your work on the hull closely, or I would have reacted sooner, but I think that the sanding sealer may have been (part of) the reason the glasscloth didn't go on the hull without wrinkles.
Granted, for a first attempt, you did well.
I always put the glasscloth on the bare hull, no sanding sealer or whatever, just a light coat of epoxy resin, of which most is absorbed by the wood (acting as a sanding sealer, correct), but as it's epoxy, when adding the glasscloth, or a second layer within 24h, you have the benefit of the chemical bond between the two layers.

I'm not sure the epoxy will have adhered to the sanding sealer just as vigorously, leaving room for imperfections in the layer...

Nice red by the way!

Regards, Jan.

[Nordlys]

Thanks Jan, I ended up rubbing down most of the paint finish, black and Burgundy, as I had
encountered a complete mess with the white waterline!
I endeavoured to follow Stavros method and have been filling and rubbing down
to get that flat surface.
It is coming.
I am waiting for some fine filler to arrive so I can finish off completely.
Funnily enough, I'm now glad that I am tackling the wrinkly finish.
The colour is not the usual bright red but it will look good I think with the Black and Greys
of the deck and cabins.
Thanks for your method description, it will be used again shortly, I've had 5 boats
leak through this summer!
N...