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Author Topic: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa  (Read 15854 times)

sailorboy61

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #25 on: November 12, 2012, 08:13:44 PM »

If youre going to cut the shaft down, just be careful you dont bend it any more. I got one of these a couple of years ago, its just about finished now. Had the same problems, motors totally detached and shafts bent, torpedo racks totally wrecked. I have replaced them with some nice 3rd party racks and torpedos. I have also replaced the props with a nice brass pair George Sitek made for me using the old ones as a template. This is certainly a cheaper way of getting one of these rather than buying an unbroken one!
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #26 on: November 12, 2012, 08:20:42 PM »

May I suggest adding a washer and a lock nut where the shaft exit's the tube at the coupling end.
You may find an influx of water otherwise.

Hi Ken, I would if the shaft was threaded but it is not and I don't have the facilities to cut thread onto them - I am hoping that the use of grease will help keep the water out.

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #27 on: November 12, 2012, 08:22:47 PM »

Thanks sailorboy61, I do hope it comes out cheaper than an unbroken one -
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #28 on: November 12, 2012, 08:28:10 PM »


In that case then I would suggest you mount the coupling close to the end of the tube  (with a washer in between).

If you don't have the ease of this then fit some spacers in the gap. It does limit your ability to adjust the gap to a snug fit however but it will stop the shaft moving in and out and drawing up water, which it will do between forward and reverse thrusts.

Hope this helps and you don't mind my observations.   :}

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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #29 on: November 12, 2012, 08:38:06 PM »

Thanks Ken, always happy to get help and observations - I will have to fit spacers, what stops the water just coming out between the end of the tube and the spacer? I mean I can't make it super tight or the shaft would not turn? Do you by any chance have a photo of spacers or the nut and washer on a model please?
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #30 on: November 12, 2012, 08:52:03 PM »


A couple of thick washers covered in grease will suffice. Use the coupler as a final adjustment by sliding it up a bit.

Yes, your right not to over tighten it. As long it turns smoothly with the fingers then that should OK.

ken

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Harquebus

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #31 on: November 14, 2012, 03:26:43 AM »

Anyone have photos illustrating washers and lock nuts on a similar shaft setup? goBulawayo: Why would the shaft need to be threaded? Just trim the length from the motor end.

I'd always assumed a well-lubed stuffing box and one that is close-fitting would be enough to prevent water ingress.
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #32 on: November 14, 2012, 10:34:39 AM »


Here is a close up of one of my connections to the propeller.  It shows the washer and nuts and the close proximity of the coupling to hold the whole thing together.

Close fitting  is the way to go .

Hope this helps.

ken

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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #33 on: November 15, 2012, 10:08:47 AM »

Thanks Ken

On another subject, my esc has a connector for the battery that has a square and a round socket, what is this connector called please, I need to get a battery with the same type of socket

I was also thinking that I might try a 12v motorcycle type battery, as these are rechargeable and it would help with ballast, how would I connect the wiring to the battery? I assume using the motorcycle connectors would work, then run the cable to a socket for the connector on the ESC?

Thanks

Wayne
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #34 on: November 15, 2012, 10:14:44 AM »


A Tamiya plug. The Esc does not plug directly into the battery as usually there is a fuse in between.

I think you are going to have to make the wire joins yourself to suit the situation. If it's  a lead acid battery then you'll need spade terminals. Other batteries can be Tamiya type connectors or the favourite (on here) Deans plugs for better current capacity.

Best to show us some pictures before you start cutting wires, however.     :}

ken



ken

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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #35 on: November 15, 2012, 10:28:52 AM »

Thanks Ken, what would this fuse look like? Any chance of a link to one please - I just had a look at Component Shop and they have 12v sealed lead acid batterys, I think I will buy one of these, probably this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360478506536?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 .

Am I right in thinking that I will then have my ESC with its tamiya fitting, which will fit into the fuse, I will then need to buy a female tamiya socket to connect the fuse to the wires running to the battery, which will connect to the battery via the spade fittings?

Regards

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #36 on: November 15, 2012, 10:41:21 AM »

I have just realised that the props on my perkasa are handed, can I make each motor turn in a different direction using only one ESC? Any guidance on wiring them up would be greatly appreciated

Wayne
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #37 on: November 15, 2012, 11:08:36 AM »

Fuses and switches

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/stuff2.php

You cannot run two 540 motors on one Speed control unit. they would take excessive amps.

To change the rotation of the motor just reverse the wiring to the terminals.

The battery you show will not have the amps you're going to need. Go for a 7 amp/hour and you might get half an hour drive time.

Hope this helps

Ken
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #38 on: November 15, 2012, 01:24:39 PM »

Thanks Ken, would the fact I am testing with one ESC (a 25A Mtroniks flysonic 70) be why the motors seem to run rather slowly on a 6v battery or is that just because I am testing with 6v?

I see component-shop have a 7.5Ah battery which fits the 7Ah you mentioned, they also have a 20Ah one but its a bit pricey for me

Wayne
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #39 on: November 15, 2012, 08:20:25 PM »


I would test the bouyancy in the bath first and add weights until you come down to the water line.  That way, you'll know how heavy the battery can be.     :}

The speed is governed by the voltage.  A 25 amp Esc might work two motors OK.   Don't forget a 20 amp fuse from the battery to the ESC !

Ken

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Stavros

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #40 on: November 15, 2012, 10:25:21 PM »

please dont bother using a gell cell batt you would be far better off running 2 x12 minh stick packs in it,reason why I suggest this is simple,the stick packs are lighter and will defo give you a longer running time
 
 
 
Dave
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #41 on: December 17, 2012, 10:15:57 PM »

So after burning out my esc :((, I am waiting for another to arrive. In the meantime a member of our club kindly gave me a mechanical speed controller and I have now set this up - Roll on our next visit to the lake, sometime in the new year.

Wayne

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Shipmate60

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #42 on: December 18, 2012, 08:56:04 AM »

If the mechanical speed controller works why not keep that type.
The fast patrol boats tend to be used flat out most of the time so the losses from the speed controller are very low.

Bob
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #43 on: December 18, 2012, 11:01:23 AM »

Hi Bob, I probably will keep it, saves having to change things inside the boat. I have ordered an esc and I will put it aside for a future build. Mmm now what could I use it in!! I think I should concentrate on my yachts for now and worry about another motor boat later.

Wayne
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #44 on: December 26, 2012, 06:09:11 PM »

Hi guys, got the boat into the pond the other day, it runs sort of OK but I think my motors are a slow speed type - Problem I am having is the boat won't turn, the servo works, seems to pull a little further one way that the other but there is not a lot of turn in the rudder.. The boat turns slightly in the one direction but pretty much stays going forward the other way. I do wonder though, the rudders are forward of the props, could this be a problem? I will get a photo of the rudders up as soon as I can.

Thanks

Wayne
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #45 on: December 26, 2012, 08:05:35 PM »


 the rudders are forward of the props, could this be a problem?

Wayne

   ???   The props should be in front of the rudders, methinks.  :o


Ken
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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #46 on: December 26, 2012, 08:26:15 PM »

I will have to see what I can do, I moved the rudders forward to give room for the control horns, I will have to look at cutting back the prop shafts

Wayne
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #47 on: December 26, 2012, 09:05:10 PM »


You will be looking for sort of set up.



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goBulawayo

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #48 on: December 26, 2012, 09:47:20 PM »

you can see mine are way forward, though even in the original holes, they would not have been behind the props, even with the props back against the A frames

Wayne

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Tug-Kenny

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Re: ARK / Hooben 1/32 Perkasa
« Reply #49 on: December 26, 2012, 10:14:04 PM »


You should find the rudders can be as near to the stern as the thickness of the clamp on the top of the shaft.  You may be able to get as close as 15mm from the stern. Ensure they are in line with the shafts when you drill the holes

Also there seems to be plenty of prop tube shaft to allow for cutting back  (at the coupler end) as you want to preserve the thread on the  propeller.  You may have to move the A frames inwards to match.

Hope this helps

Happy new year

ken
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