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[rmaddock]

I'm at one of those points in scratch model building when you seem to have to get your head around a hundred different things before you can make even the tiniest bit of progress 

Right now I'm troubled by blocks (of the tackle variety).


So, I've made my boom and gaff and now need to rig them.  The block you can see in the above photo is fairly typical; single sheaved but with integral metal fittings at top and bottom.  Now I can start to think about making them but wondered if anybody has already made such things.  I've done a search on here but nothing obvious popped up.  There are plenty of commercially available wooden blocks but not with the metal attachment points.  I suppose I could use those and glue the metal in but it doesn't sound too strong.

So, anybody what to impart some wisdom?  Anybody know of any commercially available ones that are like the ones I need?

 

[Landlocked]

You might be able to file off part of a Pekabe block with becket to achieve the look you want.  Or maybe kit bash one to get the strap on the inside.


Landlocked


 

[tigertiger]

I think I remember seeing kits at either The Model Dockyard, or that chap in Clevedon's (George Turner??) websites.

[Footski]

I have used round doweling, filed and sanded to the shape of the blocks. I then work on the end of the dowel, shaping it till it is right, including putting the groove on. When done, I cut the block off the end and shape the other side. Hope this makes sense.....

[rmaddock]

Here's a slightly clearer picture which I didn't know I had 

I have used round doweling, filed and sanded to the shape of the blocks. I then work on the end of the dowel, shaping it till it is right, including putting the groove on. When done, I cut the block off the end and shape the other side. Hope this makes sense.....

Mr Ski, it makes perfect sense, yes, but I think I need something more functional that what you have described.  For starters, don't you end up with the grain through the width of the block? Thanks though.

I think I remember seeing kits at either The Model Dockyard, or that chap in Clevedon's (George Turner??) websites.

Well, Pussycat, you may be right but I can't see them.  I find that Model Dockyard and Conrwall Model Boats (etc etc) all have web pages where the fittings are listed by manufacturer rather than nature...which makes it nigh on impossible to browse for a particular fitting.

I've got a book on scale model sailing boats that shows a very nice block kit from a company which seems to have evaporated since it was published. 

You might be able to file off part of a Pekabe block with becket to achieve the look you want.  Or maybe kit bash one to get the strap on the inside.
 

I don't know how much Pakabe fittings cost in the middle of Land Locked US of A but over here I'd have to remortgage the house to afford them.  They're very nice and there are some which come close to what I want but not affordably in the number required for a gaff cutter.

I can see that I might have to try making some for myself.  From the photo above you can see that there is a long "U" metal strap embedded in the wooden block. I'm sure I could bend some of these from brass and whittle the wooden cheeks.  Then the sheaves can be had from RBModels (or some such...although I'm quite liking RB right now).

Having said which, RBModel also do some rather nice wooden blocks: see HERE.  I did order a few the last time I got other stuff and they're very nice.  I might experiment to see if the metal strapping can be inserted sufficiently securely.

Watch this space...........

[Jerry C]

A lot depends on scale really. If your working in a half way decent size then just make them the same as you would a full size one. The block shown will work without the wood as the pins go through the metal which takes all the load. If you can, look at the other side of that block to see how the pin is secured (usually under a plate with numbers stamped on). So you have two identical cheeks made from plank stock with two top and bottom fillers between the strap. The wood is held together with copper nails and roves which you could lose if scale too small. Just notice that the sheave (wood or metal) is closer to the top than the bottom. In other words the rope can only go through the block at the bottom. This is to stop stupid sailors getting it wrong!!!
Jerry.

[rmaddock]

If you can, look at the other side of that block to see how the pin is secured (usually under a plate with numbers stamped on).

Hello Jerry,  it just so happens that the pin on this block was busy falling out at the time.  They didn't seem to be substantially fastened in by much at all 

Just notice that the sheave (wood or metal) is closer to the top than the bottom. In other words the rope can only go through the block at the bottom. This is to stop stupid sailors getting it wrong!!!

I had not noticed that. Thanks for pointing it out  It makes a sort of sense though.

I can see that I'm going to have to get in some stock of brass sheet/strip and wires.

More money! Hooray! 

[pugwash]

RM just found this website - don't know if its any good to you
but plenty of wood blocks therein
Geoff
 
http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/12.html

[rmaddock]

RM just found this website - don't know if its any good to you
but plenty of wood blocks therein
Geoff
 http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/12.html

Thanks Geoff, I had seen those ones but, again, they're not quite right.  My models large enough scale (1:9ish) that I'd like the blocks to look "right" and it'll probably be worth the effort of making some (I shall keep telling myself that and, one day, I might even believe it).

[tigertiger]

I have seen it done like this for self manufacture.

Use quality modelling ply. Shape to your hearts content.

[tigertiger]

You can also buy very small 'u'bolts from model sailboat suppliers.

[tigertiger]

Or like this
But I am sure you get the idea.

[rmaddock]

I do indeed get the idea, thank you.

I've just been recklessly internet shopping!  Brass sheaves, brass rod (various), brass strip (various), lime wood strip (various), hemp rigging cord, brass shackles etc etc.

Credit cards are dangerous things!

Do people think that a "build log" on DIY blocks would be useful?

[dreadnought72]

...of course! 

Andy

[bbdave]

There is a chap in Cornwall that sells these if they are of interest i'll dig out his contact details

[rmaddock]

Those are nice but I've got my head around trying it for myself for now.
I might get back to you when frustration sets in 
Cheers!

[Netleyned]

Blocks?
Ask our resident expert.
Guy Bagley   

Ned

[Landlocked]

If you're going to make them yourself, that sounds like a good excuse to head for Portsmouth on a research trip and tour the block mill (factory) that's part of the nautical museum.  I enjoyed the walk through when I checked off walking the decks of HMS Victory from my bucket list a few years ago.  Fortunately, the trans-Atlantic flight was part of business travel.


[size=78%]Ken[/size]

[Neil]

There is a chap in Cornwall that sells these if they are of interest i'll dig out his contact details

yes please..........I'll eventually need some for my lifeboats..and could do with some.
thanks.
neil

[rmaddock]

If you're going to make them yourself, that sounds like a good excuse to head for Portsmouth on a research trip and tour the block mill (factory) that's part of the nautical museum.  I enjoyed the walk through when I checked off walking the decks of HMS Victory from my bucket list a few years ago.  Fortunately, the trans-Atlantic flight was part of business travel.


[size=78%]Ken[/size]

Why do I only get 78% of you Ken?  Is it the distance involved?

I'd love a trip to Portsmouth but from up here it's cheaper and quicker to go abroad.

[Landlocked]

If a trip overseas is in order, I hear the Viking ship museum is fantastic.


WRT to the 78% thing, it's one of those undocumented features.  If you delete all the spaces after your entry and then delete an empty line above your last line, it shifts the last line's font.


Ken




[size=78%]See what I mean?[/size]