Topic: ANOTHER 46" FIREBOAT RESTORATION PROJECT (Read 41705 times)

Norseman · « **Reply #100 on:** May 12, 2013, 07:49:02 am »

Golborne - yes it looks like a derelict shed from the outside. It was closed the one time I was passing by.

Dave

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #101 on:** May 13, 2013, 10:25:11 pm »

The Restoration Continues...........

Not much has happened with the restoration, apart from what you see in the picture.....the rudder supports have been glued in place, I made collars to help retain the supports, these will be glued, and grub screwed in place. I have found 2 collets these will have brass arms silver soldered in place at a later date.....

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #102 on:** June 06, 2013, 07:07:21 pm »

The restoration continues........

Finally managed to do a bit on the FireBoat today, after much debate, I have bought and fitted water scoops. These came from PMB in Warrington, and are the flush type. Club member advised using 4mm tubing to feed the motor and ESC....so I've got the twin scoop type, seperate feeds for motor and ESC.
Also have done the rudder linkage.......so back to the workshop, been fed and watered....T.R.C....

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #103 on:** June 07, 2013, 10:01:52 am »

Have you glued the pickups in with wood glue?

I would have used epoxy

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #104 on:** June 07, 2013, 10:11:29 am »

No have not use wood glue......its 1 hour epoxy, mixed with "micro ballons" this makes it look like wood glue....

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #105 on:** June 07, 2013, 10:20:24 am »

Ah makes sense then

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #106 on:** June 08, 2013, 09:53:59 pm »

The Restoration Continues......

Had a busy day, getting the "Blood Pressure" down, after a visit to the Doc's, this included a 45 mins bike ride, of to B & Q to buy 9 paving stones, visit to Liverpool's old airport to arrange a boat display, watch the Formula F1 qualifiying, power nap, then into the workshop, and have made (nearly) cooling pipes, in brass tube...the picture shows the method, there is 2 both side, one for the motor, one for the ESC.

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #107 on:** June 08, 2013, 09:57:17 pm »

T.R.C.........

This picture shows the cooling pipe in position...

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #108 on:** June 08, 2013, 10:26:09 pm »

FTP,

Would the cooling system work equally as well, if the 'silicone' tube was plumbed all the way to the motors and ESC's?

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #109 on:** June 08, 2013, 10:48:00 pm »

you might find with a long run the water flow is not great, I ended up adding a pump to mine. Tho I did later discover the reason why.... I had the outlet too high

red181 · « **Reply #110 on:** June 08, 2013, 11:12:06 pm »

I did mine the same way, cosmetic reasons really, I think it looks much neater, and thought the tubing would aid with cooling

coming along Mike, I have started putting running gear back, scarey!

it might get wet very soon!

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #111 on:** June 09, 2013, 04:56:06 pm »

Well thanks for the advice Guys.....have considered many options...

Going with the 'silicone tubing' all the way through, was thought that it may look untidy. I don't think the distance the water has to travel will cause any trouble with the cooling...but will only find out when the boats water tested...

Originally I was going to use a pump for cooling, and will make a provision for one, as I also will have the hydrants working, will add an extra connection in the piping just in case.

Paul you are getting close, starting with the "scary" bit....really looking forward to seeing yours on the water..

All the best
Mike

Circlip · « **Reply #112 on:** June 09, 2013, 05:45:42 pm »

Safest system RAAARTY is to use hard (metal- say brass or alloy) tubes for the main runs with short lengths of flexible (silicone) tube to the ends as above. Fix main tubes rigidly through bulkheads etc.

Long lengths of flexy are easy to pierce.

Regards Ian.

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #113 on:** June 09, 2013, 09:53:00 pm »

Quote from: Circlip on June 09, 2013, 05:45:42 pm

Safest system RAAARTY is to use hard (metal- say brass or alloy) tubes for the main runs with short lengths of flexible (silicone) tube to the ends as above. Fix main tubes rigidly through bulkheads etc.

Long lengths of flexy are easy to pierce.

Regards Ian.

Thank you, hard tubes, she is

red181 · « **Reply #114 on:** August 03, 2013, 03:32:36 pm »

Hi Mike,

any progress? As you have probably seen, I am "wet" now with my boat. I really fancy joining up with Newsham, my spiritual home so to speak!, we could have a great natter and compare notes.

I have a friends 3 footer he bought second hand with a very strange handling problem that I promised to sort out, thats another story!

hope to read of progress soon,

Paul

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #115 on:** October 14, 2013, 05:53:33 pm »

The Restoration continues.........

Well its been a while since my last blog on this "Mammoth" rebuild of the FireBoat....not much had happened...however a burst of energy last week got me into the workshop, and have manufactured and fitted a set of "P" frames, have tried to get them as scale looking as possible, going by the drawings I have. Next job is to get the motors fitted....

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #116 on:** October 15, 2013, 05:44:28 pm »

The restoration continues......

Starting to get to the interesting bit....mounting the drive train...I'm using twin brushless these are similar to RED181's only I'm using couplings...did consider the way Paul has done his but don't have the time..may go down this route at a later date. As you can see from the picture, the base plate is 6mm ply, brass angle for the mounting the motors to the ply base. I'm using "captive nuts" to hold the rails to the ply base...these are from my T/R days and were best way of mounting an I.C. engine.
Well onto fitting in the hull next......

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #117 on:** October 16, 2013, 06:09:02 pm »

The Restoration continues.......

Done the first of the motor mounts, and have started the lining up process....I am using an old engineering trick of plasticine to get the size and thickness of the blocks.

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #118 on:** October 28, 2013, 07:19:59 pm »

The restoration continues......

Been busy again and finally got both motors installed....the process was as follows, made the brass mounting rails, bolted these to the 6mm ply base. Next motor and prop shaft were lined up using a homemade solid coupling to line up motor and propshafts.
Plasticine was used to get the thickness of the packing strips. This picture was taken before both motors are glue in place.

dave301bounty · « **Reply #119 on:** October 28, 2013, 07:41:01 pm »

Now that,s a neat bit of work ,plus the very practical engineering ,good man on tools as they say ,nice job there Mikey.

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #120 on:** October 28, 2013, 08:51:41 pm »

Cheers........Davey

Norseman · « **Reply #121 on:** November 02, 2013, 11:51:45 pm »

Hi Mike

Just popped in for a quick look and I like what I see

I''ll come down to Newsham Park lake when you and Paul get them speeding away together >>>>>>>>

Regards Dave

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #122 on:** November 03, 2013, 09:02:29 am »

Cheers Dave.....yes there will be a meeting of the "FireBoats" hopefully early summer going by the progress so far....

All the best
Mike

red181 · « **Reply #123 on:** November 03, 2013, 05:26:30 pm »

keep it coming Mike, once you get into the rythmn its easier to keepgoing! Got to beat the winter!

Not heard anything about Cub 500 at Newsham,? We raced todat at Taylor Park, great fun!

FLAT-TOP-FLYER · « **Reply #124 on:** November 03, 2013, 07:56:54 pm »

Cheers Paul......

Thanks for the encouragement not done much more due to Family things keep slower me down...regarding "Club 500" we are just sorting out the new "Buoys" out so I would think early next year we should be up and running.

Chat soon
Mike

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