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[john_k]

Hi everybody,
This is a sequel to my first enquiry (May 2011) concerning the Celia May styrene hull pack
from My Hobby Store. Those of you that came to my assistance then, I thank you again.
The offending article did indeed turn out to be the correct one and needed to be cut up
so that it could be put back together. Since it had cost me the price of a small African
village to get it here (Johannesburg) I was more than a little nervous of carving into it
and possible scapping the thing. I recently "bit the bullet"  with the help of a gadget
made for the task and have now two halves which I intended to join by applying a strip
of fabric along the seam with Araldite. I then attempted to put the halves together with
masking tape which totally didn't work as the halves don't fit together. I can probably get
the fit a little better by judicious sanding, but that won't help with the up and down. Is
there some foolproof method of temporarily holding the thing together while I stick it? Any
and all help and suggestions most gratefully received . Tks John Kearsley.

[Neil]

some photos of what you are trying to do would be a great help in helping you with a good method, John.
also araldite or any epoxy won't stick too well to styrene plastic
 
neil.

[john_k]

Having used polystyrene cement to repair a crack in the stern with poor
results, I opted for the Araldite. The area to which it would be applied
has been well "roughed up" with #80 wet & dry. The attached pictures
show the hull halves partly taped together with masking tape, but this
doesn't seem to be able to hold the edges in line (everything just keeps
moving up and down as they please).

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Hi John and welcome to Mayhem.

I notice your typing is placing the wrong end of line markings.  When you type, do not use the 'enter' tab at the end of the line.  The Forum software will automatically space you words at the end of the line.

Cheers

ken

[Stavros]

What you need is styrene glue Araldite and superglue are pants,styrer glue works by capilaary action and effectically welds the material together


Dave

[Stan]

HI guys. Happy New Year to you all. I have just joined the two hull halves of the Dumas U S S Whitehall. Joint flange sanded to give good fit then held in place using bulldog clips or binder clips. I use Humbrol polly glue. It takes longer to dry than other glues (I have tried them all) plus it comes in a small bottle so less chance of knocking it over. To help make stonger joint I cut a piece of glass tissue about 1 in wide, I then mixed Stabalit Express glue, painted the joint area, applied the glass tissue then applied more glue to the tissue using an old paint brush. This will give a good solid joint when finished. I have some pictures but am not sure how to post on Mayhem but I will try.Pictures to follow later.
 
Stan

[malcolmfrary]

I've never had much luck butt-joining shaped styrene sheets, like hull halves.  I usually resort to styrene tabs and/or a strip to give both alignment and some useful surface area on the inside using styrene cement (because that is the ideal stuff for styrene) to glue it all together.  Doing a bit at a time helps, rather than going for the lot in one go, which usually ends in disaster.  This can leave a surface crack on the outside, but this can be sorted using a filler of choice.

[mikearace]

John, I would try as Malcom suggests which is run a strip of styrene along the bottom of one side of the hull so it protrudes about 3-4mm using liquid poly.  When it is fully fully totally dried marry up together both halves of the hull and glue the second half of the hull to the flange that you have made with the styrene strip.  This should keep it perfectly together without slipping and will add strength to the joint.  After it is fully dried, any gaps can be filled with plasto or green stuff or squardon filler.  Or rather than along stip use a series of tabs of styrene at regular and close intervals.  Effect will be the same and give a base to keep the two sides fairly rigid and straight.   

[Neil]

John, I would try as Malcom suggests which is run a strip of styrene along the bottom of one side of the hull so it protrudes about 3-4mm using liquid poly.  When it is fully fully totally dried marry up together both halves of the hull and glue the second half of the hull to the flange that you have made with the styrene strip.  This should keep it perfectly together without slipping and will add strength to the joint.  After it is fully dried, any gaps can be filled with plasto or green stuff or squardon filler.  Or rather than along stip use a series of tabs of styrene at regular and close intervals.  Effect will be the same and give a base to keep the two sides fairly rigid and straight.

Mike and malcolm  omitted one slight fact though.....put the styrene strip in the inside of the hull.....I don't doubt your common sense in this matter, but it's easier to spell out step by step than to eradicate mistakes later..the whole job can be filled later with cellulose filling compound from similar to Carplan, and then sanded off.

[mikearace]

Mike and malcolm  omitted one slight fact though.....put the styrene strip in the inside of the hull.....

Er well spotted Neil.  My thought process in typing wasn't factored to state the obvious but sometimes it isnt always obvious.

[Stan]

This is how i have done my U S S Whitehall hope this helps.

[Stan]

inside of Whitehall hull showing joint betwwen two section

[malcolmfrary]

I'm sure I mentioned "inside" somewhere in there, about halfway along the second line.  Agreed about being thorough with instructions, though.
Total invisibility of the mend is not really important on an unseen inner surface, but above deck, the narrow tab can be extended to a visual "natural break" and be just another flat panel, if needed for the design of boat.  Can't remember if that was the case on a Celia May, and I can't check because it was in one of my stash of old mags that went into the B&B at the last Blackpool show.

[Stan]

Never had a problem.