Topic: Trawler Amity 2 Build (Read 41775 times)

chipchase · « **on:** January 04, 2013, 11:36:35 pm »

Hi all, I have decided to have a go at building a Trawler for my next build this will be a change from Tugs. The vessel that I am going to building is the Amity 2. When I was picking a hull up from Anths (Orion Mouldings) for my Holmsider build he was rubbing down a new plug for a fishing boat hull that I liked the look of, he told me it would make the Amity from the TV program Trawler men . I told him I would be his first customer once he had done the mold; I acquired the hull about a fortnight later. I never started the build as I was still building the Holmsider at the time. I finished the Holmsider but decided on anther Tug. The Amity hull was put to one side for the next two years (doesn’t time fly when you are enjoying yourself). Unfortunately I have not been able to obtain a set of plans for the Amity build so I am going to have a go just from photos that I have managed to get of the internet. She was refurbished in 2012 and there are a few photos of her refurbishment on the =]www.amityfish.co.uk site.
The first photo is the hull from Orion Mouldings.

chipchase · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2013, 12:16:09 am »

This is a good shot of the new rudder system and kort nozzle on the new refurbished vessel this is the first part of the build that I will start.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #2 on:** January 05, 2013, 12:21:23 am »

An interesting subject - looking forward to upcoming photo's and how you tackle that rudder !

Regards,

Ray.

chipchase · « **Reply #3 on:** January 05, 2013, 12:33:51 am »

Here is a photo of the rudder so far Ray I will post a few photos tomorrow showing how I got to this stage.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #4 on:** January 05, 2013, 12:56:34 am »

Nice work!

Howard · « **Reply #5 on:** January 05, 2013, 01:35:45 am »

Hello Brian,
I have said it before and will say it again your skills amaze me and encourage me to try that bit harder Thank you,
Regards Howard.

tt1 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 05, 2013, 01:48:04 am »

By 'eck Brian what a cracking start! a man of many talents I can see. Really looking forward to following your build.
Regards, Tony.

chipchase · « **Reply #7 on:** January 05, 2013, 10:16:46 am »

Thanks for the nice comments, I decided to use 6mm Perspex for the rudders I find this is very strong and easy to work with. After cutting to size, the Perspex was drilled to take the pins. I used stainless steel for the main shaft, if you look at the centre rudder you will see that the hole is deeper to take the drive shaft. I drilled two small holes through the drive shaft and inserted pins once the shaft was fixed into the rudder. Brass plates were made for the top and bottom of the rudders; brass pins were soldered into the plates then glued into the rudders. I drilled small holes into the top of the rudders and fitted brass bolts, I was going to tap out the holes to take the bolts but found that this was not necessary as the bolts made their own thread in the Perspex.

tt1 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 05, 2013, 12:55:20 pm »

I know it takes a lot of time Brian, but posting the explanations, the how to, and the pics as you have done, makes builds such as this a real joy to follow, with lots to learn and appreciate along the way. Showing "how I did it" is an absolute boon for newcomers and adds so much interest to the posts.
Regards, Tony.

chipchase · « **Reply #9 on:** January 05, 2013, 08:55:35 pm »

The next photo shows the outer shaft, this was turned on the lathe. Then the cross member was made and soldered to the outer shaft. I silver soldered this as it has to support the other two rudders. The operating link between the three rudders is a small brass bar with three holes drilled slightly larger than the 2mm brass bolts that are screwed into the top of the rudders.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #10 on:** January 05, 2013, 09:35:52 pm »

WOW ! Thanks for the update Brian, I would never have thought of using perspex but, now that you've pointed it out, it makes perfect sense - easier to shape than brass is, for me anyway. Then there's the weight difference as well - nice one.

Regards,

Ray.

chipchase · « **Reply #11 on:** January 06, 2013, 09:12:13 pm »

I made the Kort top and bottom support brackets out of brass, the top bracket was secured to the hull with a nut and bolt and then filled with car filler. I purchased the prop from Jim Lane as you can see by the photo the workmanship is exhalent like all of his products, unfortunately Jim does not have a web site but if anyone would like a catalogue from Jim just give him a call his number is 01670352051

chipchase · « **Reply #12 on:** January 07, 2013, 10:20:33 pm »

Next part of the build was the port and starboard keels, the photo that I have of the Amity in dry dock shows that these were quite big so I decided to use 4mm alloy sheet. I cut the keels to size then shaped them on my disc sander. I fixed four 2mm piano wire pins into each keel and then drilled through the hull and secured the keel with two part epoxy then filled and sanded.

tt1 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 08, 2013, 01:38:13 am »

Watching every move

coastie · « **Reply #14 on:** January 08, 2013, 03:26:50 am »

Looking good so far. you wouldnt happen to know the shade of green/blue below the water line it was orginally

chipchase · « **Reply #15 on:** January 08, 2013, 09:08:52 pm »

Unfortunately coastie I don’t know what shade the colours are either above or below the water line. I will have to try and find out before I get to the painting stage. Unless someone on the forum can point us in the right direction.

DavieTait · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2013, 10:04:48 pm »

Don't know if the photo will show but this photo is on Jimmy Buchan's own facebook page

DavieTait · « **Reply #17 on:** January 08, 2013, 10:05:43 pm »

Its a light blue anti-fouling and a bright red hull , wheelhouse is now white ( the yellow is primer )

coastie · « **Reply #18 on:** January 08, 2013, 10:26:24 pm »

I`ve emailed Jimmy lol

chipchase · « **Reply #19 on:** January 09, 2013, 09:25:13 pm »

Great photo Davie; I will be making a bow thruster after I finish the hull alterations.

chipchase · « **Reply #20 on:** January 09, 2013, 10:25:42 pm »

I have made a start altering the hull as she has changed quite a bit on the stern end after her refurbishment. Cut part of the top section and rubbed some of the belting bars off then fitted the new section.

chipchase · « **Reply #21 on:** January 10, 2013, 09:19:35 pm »

Got a bit done today, fitted the servo for the rudder control also fitted the drive motor. I decided to use a belt drive so the motor would be accessible once the wheelhouse was lifted off. The motor bed plate is made from 3mm alloy and fitted to the hull using two part epoxy then car filler for the finish.

NFMike · « **Reply #22 on:** January 11, 2013, 12:12:00 am »

That is a neat little motor/propshaft installation.

Now, if you can just make that wire presentable ....

tt1 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 11, 2013, 02:08:07 am »

Hi Brian, the motor looks different to the norm, can you tell me what type it is and where you obtain the gearing and belt from?
Regards, Tony.

chipchase · « **Reply #24 on:** January 11, 2013, 10:54:00 am »

The motor is of a kids E scooter model no MY1018 12v 100W 2700rpm given to me quite some time ago Tony, but I have seen them on eBay know and again. The last one was sold for £15. The belt and pulleys are from MFA Como drills here is link to the site.
http://www.mfacomodrills.com/timing_belts_timing_pulleys/timing.html

I will be sorting the electrical stuff out at the end of the build Mike.

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Author Topic: Trawler Amity 2 Build (Read 41775 times)