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Author Topic: Huntsman Build  (Read 20614 times)

Steve

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Huntsman Build
« on: January 06, 2013, 07:00:46 PM »

Hello, after attempting to this post a few times hopefully this one will be okay,
My dear wife presented the 46" fibre glass version of the Huntsman for Christmas, I am going to attempt to put everything down on here as I go along.
Maybe if anyone spots a mistake or has advice please don't hesitate to comment,
I have had a nightmare loading photos on here even after reducing them.
So I have put a link to a Picasa web album to show my progress so far which is at the end of this post.
My idea is to use twin 900 motors water cooled running on 24 v Dc using an Action P94 mixer driving X55 props.
Cheers for now,
Steve.
https://picasaweb.google.com/107161168091837550562/HuntsmanBuild?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNm0xdX88LP9NQ&feat=directlink
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2013, 07:10:27 PM »

Should anyone have looked at my pictures, the first one is a prototype working trim tab, then the marking out on paper of the drive line, I am doing all of this without the clutter of any of the ribs fitted that support the deck.
There is also a picture of one of the 900 motors fitted to its base, mounting and cooling cool in place.
Hope you enjoy.
Steve.
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Norseman

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2013, 07:21:11 PM »

Hope you enjoy your new build Steve, I'll keep looking in as I'm sure will others
Dave
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2013, 08:15:22 PM »

Thanks for that, The next part of my build is to make to prop supports, this will set the height, I'm allowing 10mm clearance from the tip of the prop to the hull. Once the supports are made, I will make a dummy shaft to represent the shaft of the motor. This will attach to the motor bracket enabling me to align everything ready for glueing. I have previously assembled all the inner wooden framework so that I could work out the best position for the motor brackets.
Another thing on my list is to fit some 4mm tubes to the prop shaft for oiling purposes.
But first as I said I must press on with the prop shaft supports.
These will be made from some 10mm brass bar which has been drilled out 8mm to fit the prob tube.
To this I will braze some 14 swg brass either side and file this to shape.
Cheers for now
Steve.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2013, 06:54:35 PM »

Today I have cracked on with the prop shaft support brackets,
Just need to add a mounting flange and it should be ready for a trial fit, check on my web album for my updated pictures.
Tomorrow I am going to fit some 4mm brass tubing maybe 10mm long to the prop shafts for oiling purposes.
Just a simple soldered joint should be adequate.


Thanks for your interest
Steve.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2013, 07:05:03 PM »

Hello again, I have had to change the link to my photos but they now show a lot more,
Last night I did another trial fir of my prop shafts.
Everything now seems okay ready for glueing, plus I fitted the trim tabs and actuating rods.
Here is the new link
https://picasaweb.google.com/107161168091837550562/HuntsmanBuild04?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIHF_Zinq9jq0QE&feat=directlink


Cheers for now
Steve
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2013, 08:03:53 PM »

I will try again and add a picture or two on here, this is a view of the underside showing prop shafts and trim tabs.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2013, 08:07:51 PM »

This is the alignment of the motor mounts, rather than use the motor which is a bit heavy at this stage I used a dummy shaft to line everything up.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2013, 08:22:16 PM »

This is one of the two 900 motors I will be using, complete with cooling coil and motor disconnect.
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2013, 09:26:32 PM »

Im not sure how many amps those 900s pull, but be careful with tamiya plugs as they might not be able to handle the current
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2013, 09:56:50 PM »

Well thanks for that, I had not really thought of the plugs.
As this is only my second build Im open to any criticism or help. In fact its my first build using decent sized motors.
I know the ESC's are rated at 20amps each but I think you have to take into account stall currents if Im right.
As I say its all trial and error, which is all part of the fun.
Cheers for that
Steve.
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2013, 10:19:18 PM »

Looking at the motor charts it looks like 8amp on 12v, so I presume if I doubled the voltage this would also double the current?
What does concern me is that the stall current is 54amp which I figure would not do the ESC's much good.
So it looks as though I will have to fit 20amp fuses to protect the ESC's ?


Much to think about.
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grasshopper

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2013, 10:55:27 PM »

I would definitely ditch the Tamiya plugs from the outset,  solder direct from motor to ESC or use something like 'powerpoles' or Deans connectors that can handle some decent current.
Your hardware manufacturing is impressive, nice brass work.
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2013, 11:52:03 PM »

Im using these on my Huntsman brushless build for battery to ESC connection and 4mm bulleys from motor to ESC
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9194__EC5_5mm_Connector_Pair_.html


These are used frequently by the large e-heli guys (large helis can pull well over 100A) so should more than cope with the 900s
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MPM

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2013, 09:50:54 AM »

Very Nice neat build.
Are the trim tabs coming below the transom???? It might just be the picture.

Jack

Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #15 on: January 12, 2013, 10:40:38 AM »

Hi again,
I think its the picture, there just hanging down in their free state at the moment Im looking into the actuation mechanism at the moment plus lots of other things, Has anyone had any successful results with the windscreen, as I know it causes some headaches.
I have EC5 connectors on order thanks for pointing that one out.


Steve.

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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #16 on: January 13, 2013, 09:19:50 AM »

Trial fit of the framework into the hull you need lots of clamps for this job. there seems to be quite a bit of material to remove from the hull especially towards the stern. I will get a better idea after glueing and filling.
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Norseman

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #17 on: January 13, 2013, 05:03:06 PM »

Hi Steve
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21584.0
It's a thread that you might want to look at, and there is a windshield method there too.
Keep up the good work.
Dave
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Steve

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #18 on: January 13, 2013, 06:10:23 PM »

Thank you for that thread Dave, very informative, I did build this model many years ago at the time it cost £60 and that was from a local shop.
I think it was 1992.
But due to personal reasons it never got finished and I said one day I would do her again.
I am alot more critical now than I was then.. I just want this one to look right, So I am going to get it as close to the real one as I possibly can.
Off to do more glueing now.
Steve.
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Norseman

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #19 on: January 13, 2013, 06:22:03 PM »

I have a complete wreck in the Shed - got thrown in with an RTTL buy.

Dave
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pompebled

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #20 on: January 14, 2013, 10:48:27 PM »

Hi Steve,

If the 900 motors need thát much cooling, you got the setup all wrong..., hopefully it won't come to that.
As it happens, a  coil around the can doesn't constitute much cooling due to the very small contact surface between the can and the tubing.
Adding heatconductive paste and covering the coil with shrinkwrap (to protect your cloths) helps a bit, but if the coil isn't enough, adding brushtab cooling takes away more heat from where it's generated, at the brushes.

If the motor really has to work hard and overheating is a concern, remove the coil and add a full jacket, where the water runs directly on the can (isolated with a thin layer of clear tape to prevent rust), as shown in the picture:



This jacket is so effective, the moisture inside the hull will condensate on it, specially when it's still cold outside...

Regards, Jan.
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RAAArtyGunner

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #21 on: January 15, 2013, 01:11:24 AM »

Jan,
 
The 'jacket' cooling is clear.
Any chance of a close up detail of 'brush' cooling.
 
Thank you.
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pompebled

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #22 on: January 15, 2013, 10:37:47 AM »

Hi RAAArtGunner,

The principle is very simple, a brass tube, soldered onto the brushtab.

As the brushtabs of Speed motors are held in position by plastic, it's essential to work quick, in order to avoid overheating the plastic, which in turn would cause the brushes to move out of position, ruining your motor...

I use a pair of roundnose pliers to bend the tab according the radius of the tube used (usually Ø 4mm thin walled brass) and pre- tin both tab and pipe with a 80-100W soldering iron.

I adapted a wooden washpeg to hold the brass tube in position, so I can solder the two together quickly withouh having to resort to using pliers, which would draw heat from the iron.



The pipe in the picture is too long, shorten it prior to soldering it in place.

I use the same washpeg to hold both cooling pipe and motor wire in place to be able to solder the wire in place without the brass pipe falling off again.

Regards, Jan.
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RAAArtyGunner

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #23 on: January 15, 2013, 11:58:55 AM »

Thank you  :-)) :-))
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pompebled

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Re: Huntsman Build
« Reply #24 on: January 15, 2013, 12:52:23 PM »

I have a complete wreck in the Shed - got thrown in with an RTTL buy.
Dave
Hi Dave,

You had me puzzled for a while with the 'RTTL buy', but after some searcing it had to be a 'Vosper Rescue Target Towing Launch', right?

How bad of a wreck is the Huntsman? Is it worth shipping to the Netherlands, so I can 'finally' own one (once restored)?

Regards, Jan.
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