For the frames to fit you would require exactly the hull lines that were used to produce your model's hull.
Therefore a certain amount fairing would also be required even if you were supplied with the shipyard's original set of hull lines/offsets.
It looks to me as though your model's hull was laminated from a GRP mould.
So you would have to ask the people who produced the mould for the drawings they were using if you haven't done it yourself.
But if they produce model moulds/hulls for commercial reasons I can hardly believe that they would be willing to hand this data out.
Nevertheless, I don't think that the shaping of fitting extra frames for strengthening or components mounting support really would demand such a high precision as the hydrodynamically satisfying fairing of a hull.
The interior edge of the hull seems due to the laminated resin fabric structure to be quite bumpy, jittery and rough.
So why not just taking the interior offsets with a chord or compass and roughly fairing the lines of the required frames at the wished stations with a pencil and a set of drawing curves?
(i.e. usually the ubiquitous 3-curve Burmester sets, since I can hardly believe that the average model boater has access to genuine ship curve sets)
Sometimes one can also obtain those flexible rubber ruler/curves for little money.
Though they may not meet the requirement for professional hull lofting for this particular purpose they seem to come quite handy in my opinion.