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Author Topic: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.  (Read 6301 times)

eddiesolo

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  • Shiver me timbers...I've spilt me glue!
  • Location: West Yorkshire UK
Re: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.
« Reply #25 on: February 23, 2013, 09:07:28 PM »

Quote
Not only you Martin, I got shivers looking at them too!!
 
congrats to Si for your efforts.
My boat is to make you smile, not frighten you. Capitan Ernst Von Skinless and his merry band of spectres will be most unhappy to hear that his rusting hulk is frightening poor folk. Si:)
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My models are not nice, clean and ship-shape. They be mucky, grubby, rusty and smelly.

U-33

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  • K-157 Vepr. Akula-11
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Re: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.
« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2013, 09:03:54 AM »

With your permission Eddiesolo, and permission from Martin(Admin), I'd like to put a link to this build on the AMS forum. We have one or two members who enjoy building dioramas, and I'm pretty sure that this would go down very well.


How about it, chaps?




Rich
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Rich

K-157 Vepr. Akula-II (project 971U)
---------------------------------------------------------------

~~~~~~~  "Motorflotes need love too...."  ~~~~~~~

MotorFlote build log : http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,15222.0.html

eddiesolo

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Re: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.
« Reply #27 on: February 24, 2013, 10:44:29 AM »

Quote
With your permission Eddiesolo, and permission from Martin(Admin), I'd like to put a link to this build on the AMS forum. We have one or two members who enjoy building dioramas, and I'm pretty sure that this would go down very well.


How about it, chaps?




Rich
That is okay with me Rich, just as long as Admin approves.
Si:)
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My models are not nice, clean and ship-shape. They be mucky, grubby, rusty and smelly.

U-33

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  • K-157 Vepr. Akula-11
  • Location: Eastbourne, Sussex, UK
Re: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.
« Reply #28 on: February 24, 2013, 11:44:34 AM »

Thanks for that, I'll drop Martin a pm.
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Rich

K-157 Vepr. Akula-II (project 971U)
---------------------------------------------------------------

~~~~~~~  "Motorflotes need love too...."  ~~~~~~~

MotorFlote build log : http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,15222.0.html

eddiesolo

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Re: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.
« Reply #29 on: February 24, 2013, 12:07:33 PM »

Quote
Thanks for that, I'll drop Martin a pm.
No probs. I'll do a step by step of what I did below.
Si:)
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My models are not nice, clean and ship-shape. They be mucky, grubby, rusty and smelly.

eddiesolo

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Re: 1:125 scale U-99 Revell kit...sunken.
« Reply #30 on: February 24, 2013, 12:50:15 PM »

STEP BY STEP OF MAKING THE STATIC SUNKEN U-BOAT.
I have always wanted to do a sunken U-Boat so after many moons of sitting about doing naff all about I decided to get on with it.
1) Is to get your model, I have a disability with my arms, hands etc so needed something that would work, smaller kits were a no-go as they are far two small-so I went for a 1:125 scale Revell U-99 kit, 21 inches long so a good size.
2) Take the kit off the sprues and deburr, also give the plastic a good wash, I do this in the shower, just to get rid of any residue or small plastic bits.
3) Once dry it is time to decided on the damage/rust holes. I 'distressed' the model using my Dremel with cutting discs and sanding discs, this takes time as the sanding discs take off only a little-the added bonus of this is that the area you're sanding actually wears through so looks like it has worn around the edges. At this stage I also drilled out the vent holes-you do not have to be too careful here as they will be coated, but, it is essential you do it or the model will not look right.
4) All damaged and drilled the next thing was to figure out the hull portion that would be showing through the gaping holes in the saddle tanks-I was lucky a I am Asthmatic so managed to incorporate the top of one of my inhalers that fit just right into this scale model, of course anything roundish could be used. I then added some pipework-this was a length of electrical wire-this is good as this can be bent into shapes, I also added a couple of bits off the sprue for frame work. I used P600-which is like no-nails, it is a industrial adhesive and I have used it to fasten my dioramas to boards as it will not shrink and once dried the item will stay there.
5) Once the hull, pipework etc had set it was time to assemble the model, I used contact adhesive as I found that as I was coating it the external finish wasn't important regarding glue runs, plus the added strength as opposed to normal cement was better for me due to the added weight of the coating. This model had the option of having the sail hatch open or closed, I went with open. I also left off some parts-net cutter supports, deck vent, AA gun, also one set of railings. On a larger scale model I thing these items would look good, but on this scale I preffered the 'less is more' look. I then bent one deck railing and aft sail railing-then glued into place.
6) Once the whole model has dried it was time to coat. I use a large tray for detailing, sanding and spray painting, keeps everything in one place. The model was coated in PVA glue, I found this is the best as opposed to using cement or adhesives as you can work the coating with your fingers or brush if you have to and not have loads of sticky gunk everywhere-it works a treat on plastic, foam, wood etc. The coating is just sand, sieved so that you get more fine particles. Kiddies playpit sand is nice and fine but I used sieved sharp sand as it does have a few bigger bits in. PVA the model in sections and then just pour sand on it, shake off the excess and you have a crusty surface-simple, repeat after the sanded area is dry to build up areas. The sand will not slip unless you have too much PVA glue.
7) Once coated and dry it is time to seal the sanded model. I use car spray paint as a base, in fact the colour was Vauxhall Brasil Brown-a dark brown that would look odd if the model was all that colour, you of course could use any colour or even an undercoat of grey-you can then build up the various colours on top. The Brasil Brown came through rather well as it did look like rust. After the seal coat is applied-this stops any sand particles from falling off in the future, you then start to build up the layers of concretion and growth. I used model enamel paints-greens and emulsion test pots-corals, pinks etc, all applied via sponging techniques.
8 ) Base was made out MDF board, coated in the same way as the model, coral spray paint added to seal then various paint washes, sponge etc to add depth and colour. The model was then P600 onto the base and a mixture of Brasil Brown and brass metallic enamel paint, mixed, was added via brush to the underneath to simulate keel rust and seabed staining. My model is upright and not correct in the sense that 99% of subs will go to port or staboard upon hitting the seabed-I had damage on both sides so wanted to be able to see all around the sub. Final flourish was a brass plaque depicting the model type and a few words-in my case: 'FOREVER WE SLEEP'. And that's it done.
Thanks for reading, hope it maybe of some use to you.
Si:)
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My models are not nice, clean and ship-shape. They be mucky, grubby, rusty and smelly.
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