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Author Topic: Joffre build  (Read 24018 times)

oldiron

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Joffre build
« on: March 03, 2013, 11:44:21 AM »

 Well, I bit the bullet. I pulled my Joffre kit out the deep dark depths of the basement to start its build. I've had the kit for several years and never go and "Around tuit". Well an enquiry on another thread pushed me over the edge.
   The Joffre is a Caldercraft kit to 1/48 scale. I like it because its small size allows me to get to the pond without breaking my back to get there. The kit appears to be straight forward for this range of kit. The castings are beautifully made and the fiberglass (yes, I know, the Brits call them GRP hulls) hull is well made., clean, sharp and neat. It has a little bit of an outward cant on the freeboard on one side. I may take this out later. If so, more details then.
   I started by following the instructions (new for me) by drilling through the anchor and fair lead openings. This was opened up with a small diamond burr in my Dremel tool. The openings were finished with a rat tail file. There are a couple of things to note when doing this. The nice smooth finished surface on the hull is very brittle and will chip easily around the openings if you're not careful. (see the photos). These are easily fixed later on. Also test fit the anchors to make sure they will comfortably enter the openings in the hull. On my first shot, they were too small. I opened them up more and they fit fine now. The anchor holes should also go in at an angle (see photo of file in the opening). this allows the anchor to seat properly.
   I've found one discrepancy in the instructions. There is a diagram "Y" for locating the freeing port covers (scuppers), part 131, however, I couldn't find any reference in the instructions as to the time to apply these nor whether one should open a hole to show up on the inside of the bulwarks when done. I will probably make the openings in the bulwark before I apply the covers.
   The inside of the bulwarks a rather rough , particularly since they will be seen on the finished model. I'm going to fill and sand these smooth before painting the hull.
   This gives us a start on the model. Hopefully I'll get some more done tomorrow.
 
 John
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2013, 11:47:58 AM »

continuing:
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2013, 11:53:18 AM »

  A little history about the protoype for this vessel may be gleaned from this web site:

http://www.tynetugs.co.uk/joffre1916.html

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2013, 12:26:40 AM »

  Today we started to tackle the inside bulkheads. There are two on this vessel, one fore, one mid ships, made from supplied plywood. The basic shapes are already CNC routed out of the overall plywood sheet. However, they must be fitted to the particular hull shape. Since these hulls are GRP the inside surface finish is variable so a little bit of work to make them fit the hull better will pay off in a better looking job.  To locate the bulkhead locations refer to the instruction sheet. The sheet gives the locations measure from the tip of the bow. How to get this measurement accurately to the hull? Using a square set upright inside the hull on the keel line, bring a measuring stick from the point of the bow to the square. Adjust the square until the desire 135 MM distance (as per the drawings, is achieved. Mark the hull at the keel center line and square intersection point. Now extend this line up to the top of the hull in a square fashion. If you have done it accurately, the bulkhead should sit square and vertical in the hull. The amidships bulkhead merely uses the forward bulkhead line as a reference point for measurement.  When you are satisfied with the location, its time to fit the bulkhead to the hull. Set a light low into the hull on the opposite side to which you are viewing the bulkhead. This will show light through the gaps that don’t meet the hull properly. Sand, trim and tweak the bulkhead until the light gaps are as small as possible, or non existent. The bulkheads should slip into place easily and not push out or distort the hull.  I wanted the centers of my bulkheads open for wiring, ballast access, and battery access if necessary. I decided to leave 5/8” material around the outside of the bulkhead. Now special reason for that number except it appeared to be right and should be plenty strong enough. I then used my jigsaw to cut out the center of the bulkheads. The burrs were sanded and cleaned up and the bulkheads are test fitted. All well I offered up the Decaperm motor I plan to use for the vessel. In the photo with the decaperm you will notice a pencil line across the keel of the hull. This is the position the prop shaft comes into the hull. I may well be shortening the prop tub and shaft to allow more room for a proper universal joint.
  All looking well, I did a test fit of the sub deck. Here again a little sanding and tweaking was done to get the deck to fit comfortably.  Now is time to epoxy the bulkheads into place. John
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2013, 12:33:09 AM »

.............the bulkheads continue.........


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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2013, 11:23:13 PM »

  The story continues. I epoxied the cut out and fitted bulkheads so they are now secure.   I commenced prep to install the stern tube and rudder. Early on I decided to substitute a four bladed brass prop for the three bladed cast metal prop supplied.  For the stern tube commence by marking, on the bulge for the stern tube hull exit, a center point. Us a small drill to make a pilot hole, something in the order of 1/8 inch should do. Follow through with a 5/16 drill (this matched the size of the stern tube provided with the kit. Even though I was very careful on drilling the hole I still chipped the raised portion on the hull around the stern tube penetration. After some consideration on how to fix the problem I decided to file off the broken bits and portion of the protrusion on the hull rather than fill them with filler. I turned up a brass flange to solder onto the prop shaft right at the over board bearing. This flange provided a convenient stop when installing the stern tub and a place to apply sealer to prevent water ingress to the hull.  The other end of the stern tube was drilled on its circumference to allow the installation of an oil tube later.  My stern tube came with the prop shaft, however, on inspection it looks like mild steel and will, therefore, rust. It was exhibiting signs of that already. I’m going to substitute a stainless steel prop shaft.
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2013, 11:28:07 PM »

To install the rudder post bearing I first offered up the skeg provided in the kit. This requires a hole be drilled, into the hull, along the keel line. A little filing may be required on the keel to allow the skeg casting to easily slip over it. Once installed drop a piece of brass rod or wood dowel down through the hole in the skeg, to the hull stern. When you’re satisfied the rudder post will be straight, mark the hull where you want the hole for the rudder post bearing. Drill the hole through the hull with the appropriate size drill for the tube provided.  Before installing the tube, I offered up a brass washer to the tube. I filed the washer internal diameter to allow the washer to sit at an angle when the rudder shaft bearing was placed through it. A test fit was made in the hull and the rudder and skeg were installed and clamped in place. The washer was soldered to the bearing tube. When things had cooled down the bearing tube was epoxied to the hull.
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2013, 11:29:20 PM »

 The stern tube was now installed. It needs a support near its forward end. The drawings don’ call for it, however, the amount of overhang will cause vibration and extra stress on the stern of the hull. Using cardboard I made a template for the support. When I was happy with the fit, I cut the shape out of plywood. The plywood was epoxied into place in the hull.

John

 
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tt1

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2013, 12:20:52 PM »

Have to say John not only is this an interesting build, you present it in such a way that it becomes almost a tutorial - excellent! a great help to all and especially newcomers - 10 out of 10 to you  O0
                            Regards, Tony.   (Just another fan! :-)) )
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Howard

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2013, 12:32:48 PM »

Thank you for doing it John as I have the kit but not started it yet but this will be a great help.
                        Regards Howard.
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2013, 01:02:13 PM »

Thank you Tony and Howard (blush). I'm glad you like the build. It'll have the failures and fixes as I go along.
thanks for watching

John
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Capt Podge

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2013, 08:18:03 PM »

Appreciate the way you present your builds John - I've saved a copy of your Smit Nederland build for when I get to refurbishing mine.
 
In the meantime, happy to watch your progress on this one :-))
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Pop top campervan needed

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #12 on: March 08, 2013, 09:13:53 PM »

Appreciate the way you present your builds John - I've saved a copy of your Smit Nederland build for when I get to refurbishing mine.
 
In the meantime, happy to watch your progress on this one :-))
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.

  Thanks very much Ray, A pleasure to be of assistance.

John
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Norseman

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #13 on: March 08, 2013, 10:52:53 PM »

Well I'll tag along for the build too - nice subject.  O0

Dave
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2013, 06:29:21 PM »

   Now we have the stern tube and rudder post tube installed, I decided to look at the main deck . According to the drawings there is a very small opening, under the steering quadrant grill, to gain access to the steering gear on this vessel. I wasn’t happy with that so I took blade to wood and made a substantial opening in the aft of the main deck to allow access to the steering.  I will use the grill casting that came with the kit, but set it higher off the deck. This wasn’t unusual as the steering quadrant was usually above deck anyway.  To ease the access to the rod from the steering servo, I made a fitting to go on the steering post that has the appendage to accept the servo steering rod. The fitting set screw, that fastens the fitting to the steering post, is accessible from above the main deck. This makes adjustments and removal simple and easy rather than having to fight something under the deck..  The fitting is made of 1/4" dia. brass rod that has a .140” x ½”  hole down its axis that slips over the rudder post tube. The hole continues at .120” for the remainder of the fitting length (about 7/8”). A 6-32 grub screw is let into the .120 dia hole. This acts as a pinch screw to hold the rudder in place.  You now have an accessible steering gear that is easily removed or adjusted.
John
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #15 on: March 15, 2013, 08:56:37 PM »

 Now we have the rudder sorted, its time to look at the deck and motor installation. Caldercraft doesn’t seem to make any arrangements for a “ledge” to sit the deck on inside the perimeter of the hull. This is typically done to add support to the deck and ensure a level installation of the deck in the hull. Makes the joint stronger too.  To overcome this deficiency, I used some bass wood strip to make up the ledge. It ran inside the hull even with the top of the installed bulkheads. I epoxied them into place, ensuring they were securely clamped while the epoxy set.  After the epoxy set and the clamps were removed, the deck was test fit. Looked really nice, except it was low on one side. After inspection with a ruler, I found that the bulkheads were low on one side. (see, I said you get all the mistakes and how to correct them). To over come the problem, I installed another bass wood strip on top of the first one to bring the level up correctly. The bulkheads also received a partial strip that was sanded down to match the correct deck curvature. Once the deck is in place, no one will know.  I then turned to the motor mount. This is made from a block of pine cut to size. On top is a square of 1/8” plywood large enough to over hang the sides of the motor mount. This was epoxied to the top of the pine block.   When that was set up, I epoxied two brass strips to the underside of the overhang. These were drilled for #10 machine screws. Take the mark off point for these holes from the base of the motor. After clean up, the brass screws were inserted through the holes from the bottom of the overhang. When the bolts were correctly lined up, they were soldered to the brass strip. The idea, here, is to prevent the screws from turning while you tighten down on the hold down nuts from above. If you follow this method, you may want to use a soldering iron rather than a small butane torch as I did. It makes a less burnt appearance.  In boats I build I try and seal in the innards to prevent damage should water ingress. I usually accomplish this by painting on fiberglass resin over all the wooden parts. I did so in this application on the motor mount, bulkheads and around the prop shaft entry into the hull, and the underside of the deck.  The motor mount was fastened to the hull with the resin at this time too. You may notice a misalignment of the universal joint. That’s because the motor mount shifted while the resin was hardening. It was hard when I noticed it. Shouldn’t be a problem, just doesn’t look very good.  There is another thread that shows how I made the universal joint:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,42205.70.html

John
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #16 on: March 15, 2013, 08:58:27 PM »

.....motor mount:
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eddiesolo

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #17 on: March 15, 2013, 09:26:04 PM »

Super build, coming along very nice. I love the 'building by pictures' gives so much more involvement and tips.
Thank you very much.
Si:)
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2013, 04:24:32 AM »

I think you gave motor mount a real fright there with the torch, you know you can't watch TV and solder at the same time, at least I can't, you are moving fast on this build John, Mick B...
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Mick B.

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2013, 11:57:19 AM »

I think you gave motor mount a real fright there with the torch, you know you can't watch TV and solder at the same time, at least I can't, you are moving fast on this build John, Mick B...

  It's a small butane torch Mick. The trick is to work fast and blow hard (to put the flames out).

John
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tt1

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2013, 12:57:00 PM »

Holy smoke! - hope it was white John  {-)
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2013, 01:51:48 PM »

Holy smoke! - hope it was white John  {-)

LOL..we gave it an appropriate blessing

John
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2013, 03:44:21 PM »

It is because of things like that you never have enough fire extinguishers around. LOL. Mick B...
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Mick B.

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2013, 05:52:12 PM »

It is because of things like that you never have enough fire extinguishers around. LOL. Mick B...

  I'm well equipped with dry chemical extinguishers.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #24 on: March 20, 2013, 12:40:44 AM »

  The saga continues. In this installment we’ll look at the installation of the rudder servo. I took a look at the arrangement in the bottom of the hull where the motor and such are. I felt putting the rudder servo down there could make things a bit cramped, particularly when there was so much space right under the deck. I’d mounted the rudder servo under the deck on my Smit Nederland build. It worked well….no reason why it shouldn’t, so why not here.
   Instead of the aluminum mount I used on the Neddy, I elected to use a plywood mount on the Joffre. I made the mount so it was well supported and fastened it together and to the underside of the deck with epoxy. The small slot in the mounting plate for the servo allows the servo control wire to pass through easily when installing the servo.
  It was positioned under the deck in such a way as to allow relatively easy access for removal should that be necessary.
   I’ve found doing this “in hull” laying out is much easier with the deck left off until all the planning and installation is complete. When doing it this way, however, one must periodically reinstall the deck to ensure they haven’t built themselves into a corner they can’t get access to.


 John
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